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YOUR RESEARCHDIY Brake change advise on c4s
Leading reported evidence
Replace disks and pads
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Suggestion · Original poster
Are there any gotchas when changing all the disks and pads on a 53 c4s I should be aware of before I start?
Leading evidence: 'Replace disks and pads' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace calliper bolts, you can get them' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Anyway give it a bash and I used a wee bit copperslip on the back of my pads and they have now been on for 3 weeks, bedded in nicely and stopping likie *****!!!!
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Suggestion
It's recommended to change the calliper bolts, you can get them from OPC.
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Suggestion
Always safety first, never rely on just a jack - use axle stands as backup.
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Anyway give it a bash and I used a wee bit copperslip on the back of my pads and they have now been on for 3 weeks, bedded in nicely and stopping likie *****!!!!
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Are there any gotchas when changing all the disks and pads on a 53 c4s I should be aware of before I start?
Do I need a caliper compression tool? do the pistons compress or are they the wind in type?
I'm a pretty capable mechanic but have never looked at the brakes on this car... it just failed an MOT due to corrosion in the insides of the disks and my local indy wanted £1200 to replace them, so its time for the spanners to come out!!
Ramma, firstly welcome to the forum :bye:
Job should be straightforward although you'll need to take account of the following;
1. Always safety first, never rely on just a jack - use axle stands as backup.
2. The rear disks can be a bitch to get off, make sure you back offf the handbrake shoe adjusters which you will see through one of the wheel stud holes, get yourself a strong torch. A flat blade screwdriver does the job.
3. The disks compress, I use a plastic wedge
4. make sure the disks go on the right wheels as the cross drilling is rotational.
5. make sure you've got new shims, your brakes will squeak otherwise.
6. It's recommended to change the calliper bolts, you can get them from OPC. Mine were quite plastic when I removed them - must be the heat cycle stressing.
7. The brakes go in dry, no copper grease anywhere near the shim sticky stuff.
Overall its an easy job to do and you can save a heap of money!
I may have forgotten something but I'm sure I'll be corrected :judge: :floor:
cheers
Ray :thumb:
Thanks Ray, always good to know what to expect before you start... its never good to have your car in pieces and find that you need some specific tool to finish the job. :sad:
Just waiting for the parts from PorscheShop then.. before the job breaks out
cheers :thumb:
I changed the disks and pads on my 1999 C2. I am a mechanic on an oil platform so no stranger to a bit grease. Although I had never changed brakes before I found it very simple.
Pistons pushed back no prblem, I kept caliper in place held up with some rope. Only prblem which did happen was there is 2 retaining screws which locate the disk onto the hub and I rounded the head which had to be drilled out and re-tapped. I would use an impact driver next time not a Dewalt batter gun!!!!! :mrgreen:
Anyway give it a bash and I used a wee bit copperslip on the back of my pads and they have now been on for 3 weeks, bedded in nicely and stopping likie *****!!!!
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