Opti-Coat Pro

I brought the car in for yearly paint correction & detailing. I get a call a few hours later from the detailer and he tells me everything is coming out very easily (swirls, scratches, etc...) He offers to apply Opti-coat Pro at a price I couldn't refuse so I wouldn't have to bring it in every year for paint correction. The car will never need wax again either. Opti-Coat is a ceramic finish, 100 times thicker than wax. The car looks outstanding, hard to believe it's 15 years old!

wow looks great, what does the opti coat treatment run?

Nice! But where will you spend those extra hours every month instead of lovin on your ride with some clay bar and a fresh coat of wax?!

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I've been quoted $750-$900.....depending on how much paint correction is required.

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Lexvan has it exactly right, the paint correction is the timely/costly part. The Opti-coat product itself is not costly but you want the paint to be perfect because it will be "locked in" once the opti is applied. I had my 2014 RAM pick-up done the day before the Porsche (it is 4 months old) and it cost me $800. It took him almost 2 days of correction work because the winter was harsh and the paint was hard to work with - lots of scratching and swirls. The Porsche was brought in for a standard detail and minor paint correction for $200 but since it was so easy to correct he made me a ridiculous offer of Opti for another $150. I paid for both the truck and car at the same time so it was a bit of a package deal. He said the truck was the hardest opti coat project he ever had and he said the Porsche was the easiest. Porsche paint is usually soft. Though he said he did another 2000 996 not too long ago and it did not respond nearly as well as mine to paint correction.

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Nothing to worry about, I spend my weekends compounding and waxing my old 40 foot boat! Over 20 hours on it with the Makita this weekend...not very fun....and not close to done

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100 times thicker? That is pretty thick. Turned out great!

Thinking about it for my DD. I had it done previously on a Mustang GT here in Orlando I dug up the quote I got a few months ago The basic cost of application is $250. If you need polishing work, prices begin at $350 for a one step polish with clay bar and $500 for a two step polish and clay bar.

Blipping the throttle and Heel/Toe aren't the same thing. Blipping is easy; H/T not so easy. I actually find that the pedal placement on my 981 makes it a challenge because of the difference in height as well as how quickly the brakes grab. On my To Do list for this summer!

Question guys....is this stuff tougher than paint? Can you eliminate the "clear bra" if you have this stuff over your paint?

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Here's a link to read about it.... http://www.theultimatecoating.com/ While it's scratch resistant, I would not consider Opti-Coat as a replacement for a clear bra. As a matter of fact my detailer also does Xpel and he was offering it to put it on the truck after Opti. Here's another link: http://mrsparkledetailing.com/opti-coat-pro

Seems like its 1-2 micron (similar to factory clear coat thickness) http://opti-coat.com/ Clear bra is MUCH thicker so I don't think it can replace clear bra. It looks stunning on OP's car. My only concern is its permanent nature so if I missed something at the prep work, it will be sealed by the opticoat as well.

I install Opti Coat, among other nano coatings and no, it is no replacement for a film. It is a sacrificial layer that will protect the ultra thin clear coats that manufacturers insist on painting cars with. If you do get scratches and micro marring (and we all will) the defects will be in the coating and not the precious clear coat. Should polishing be necessary, you are polishing the coating and not the clear. As a reference, the standard yellow Post-it-Note is 2 mils thick. Standard clear coat these days is about 1.5 mils thick.

I haven't washed the Porsche since the opti-coat application (it's only been a week and it's always garaged). I did wash my truck once and it was very interesting. Soap and water are acting completely different then they used to- they both just "sheet" off the car. It's difficult to see where I applied soap with the microfiber pad because it's just slides off....I'm not sure how else to describe it, it's just a really slick finish so that nothing sticks to it while washing. It's very noticeable when you're cleaning.

Thanks for the answer guys!! I appreciate it. I wish it could replace the bra....that would make paying to have it done a no-brainer....considering a new clear bra is 600-750 bucks - if you pay someone else to do it..... Thanks, Ray

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I understand the paint correction, but how do rock chips come into play ? Does this have any "filling" properties that lessen the depth of the chip or should these be fixed prior to application ?

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Fixed prior.

Definitely fix any chips before hand. There is no protection from the Opti Coat. However, Opti Coat will bind over Dr. Color Chip type of products.

I opti-coated my own car (DIY) and now I miss waxing and polishing etc etc. But, much easier to simply rinse and wash the car now. I think the Opti-Coat was 75 bucks at autogeek.net and I used it on 2 cars. You can do your own paint correction with a dual action, a few pads and Menzerna or Meguiars (105/205). I actually had to do some wet sanding to remove some etching that happened prior to my ownership. Menzerna and Meguiars took out the wet sanding marks with ease. Your car looks spectacular!

We have a new Audi being delivered today (Q5). I planning on doing an opti-coat treatment myself... Plan is: Wash Clay bar Meguiar's 105 w/ DA (if needed) Meguiar's 205 w/DA Isopropyl Alchohol wipedown Opti-Coat

Might want to wash after the Meguiars -- since you may have dust. Then do the IPA, then Opti.

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Planned on a simple rinse if the 205 dusted. Do you think it needs a full wash? Also, any thoughts about Menzerna 4500 *after* the 205 for a final super-polish?

If I recall, I'm pretty sure I did a full wash and then IPA. Can't hurt to use the 4500. I tried both Menzerna and Meguiars, and think the Meguiars was easier to use.

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Well its been over 2 years, any comment on your Opti-Coat Pro is holding up??

Reviving this a bit. I just booked my 911 for Ceramic Pro/G-Technik treatment April 28-29-30. This will be the third car I and the technician are doing. He did our Vette and my SS and I must say I am impressed enough withthose 2 that I am doing the 911 as well. Now the Vette was brand new and the SS had a year on it when we did those so correction was substantially less. We'll see how muc this car needs, even though the painted areas are smaller. We will be doing Leatherique on the seats to rejuvenate those and we will also be doing the carpets, plastics etc. Finally we will remove the wheels and do nthe wheel arches and the calpiers. The wheels were already done before I put them on. We will be taking before, during and after photos and I will post them when we're done.

Opti-Coat pro is NOT available to the general public. Opti-Gloss Coat is. And yes, there's a difference in the 2. i just polished my 911 and sealed it all up with opti-Gloss coat. Looks a lot better but I am going to completely wet sand it when the kids are little older for the flawless paint I am looking for.

Mine is my summer daily driver so I am not looking for that show quality finish. I don't know if these products are available to the public, the tech is a Ceramic Pro approved installer. Of course the Leatherique products are available to all. We'll see the results but I presume it will be fine for me.

your tech is an official opti coat pro installer then. you'll love the results.

Yes, my SS went through this winter parked outside. Seems like it was easier to clear the snow from it and it never looked dirty. Stll needed washing but didn't't have that satin look from the crud, always shined. And the Vette (which we drive on nice days in winter) is stunning in dark blue.

From what I've seen with my local guy, the clear film bra goes on first and they do the ceramic coat over the film and the paint. They do CeramicPro coatings