DIY Brake Change

Hi All, Need some advice for some DIY work on the car. I have a place to work on it for the first time so am a total noob when i comes to doing actual real mechanical stuff. I want to change pads, discs and brake ducts next week. I currently have EBC blue and old discs (no idea on brand or quality) and got a lot of judder wen hot at goodwood on last track day. So am looking at putting: - brembo drilled discs all around - paged RS14 pads all around - 997 GT3 brake aire ducts What do i need for this? Looks like a pin kit, some anti-squeal grease, anything else? Also, what - if any - special tools might i need? I have a torq wrench (big one for wheels) and a basic tool kit. Many thanks for any advice. Will watch some more YouTube videos before i start but looks relatively straightforward?

Hi James, I would steer clear of drilled discs for track use - they crack, with the cracks radiating from the drilled holes.

From memory - You will need a good punch to drive the pad pin out. A large allen key preferably on a socket to remove the calliper - can't remember the size off top of my head maybe 8mm? An impact screw driver of similar to undo the large philips screws that retain the disc. Possibly a set of backing plates for the pads that retain them in the callipers although i have reused the old ones in the past - they are not that expensive though. A decent bungee or a length of heavy wire with which to suspend the calliper when you are fitting the disc so you don't damage the flexi pipes. plenty of brake and clutch cleaner! plus all the bits you've mentioned already. as for what type of pads i just went with brembo discs and pads all round but mines not been on a track yet. when your removing the brake calliper from the hub make sure that the excess thread on the bottom side of the hub (the bolts protruding through/the female thread if it doesn't ) is clear of cr@p and debris so the head in the hub doesn't get damaged. sure others will add more! this will help: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...ake_Discs/55-BRAKES-Replacing_Brake_Discs.htm

The youtube vids will make removing the caliper pins look easy but often they are not.......ideally you need a proper punch that is the right size / length to punch the pin all the way across the caliper and a 4lb hammer to 'shock" the pin...........brake sensors can be reused if they have not activated but there are a couple of different connector types into the pads so make sure you can reuse them with the new pads you are fitting........be careful with the disk hub screws as they are relatively soft metal and so you really need an impact driver to again shock them free or you risk turning the heads...........when you do the rears make sure the handbrake pads are fully released from the inner of the disk or you risk pulling them off / braking the retaining springs (which are expensive for a spring)

Thinking of doing pads on my C2 in a few weeks. Is there anything I need to do with the brake fluid? When I put the new pads in place on all 4 corners will this cause fluid to push back up the lines due to the extra thickness on the pads? Do I need to remove some fluid? If so what do people use to do that? Thanks everyone.

Undo the brake reservoir lid, check the brake fluid isn't already brimmed. If it is then remove a little with a syringe. Take out the safety pin from the pad retaining pin, then use a drift to tap out the pin, then remove the clip and sensors (which just pull out with needle nose pliers) use a large flat bladed screwdriver and lever the pads away from the discs until they are fully retracted. Pull out the old pads and insert new ones. There may be anti-squeal shims in there, re-use is fine. Use brake grease or copper grease on the backs of the pads, and use sand paper to remove corrosion from the pad retaining pin and coat it in brake grease before putting it back in. Now do up the lid on the reservoir.

Martin996RSR describes a screwdriver technique but if that doesn't work you will need another way of retracting the brake caliper pistons (e.g. a proper tool or a suitable G clamp and an old pad). You'll also need a decent jack, axle stands etc. I know someone will be along in a minute to say they can do each side in half an hour and drink a cup of tea but IME a brakes are rarely plain sailing. Stuck fasteners and stripped threads are not uncommon and will present a real headache for the first time mechanic. Have a go by all means (if the last guy did the job properly it might be a pleasure to do) but be prepared for problems in case it isn't as quick a job as you'd planned. And good luck!

While you're at it, unless you know its history, I would replace the fluid.

Quite right. The caliper bolts can present a real problem.

I use an old (clean) chicken Baster and a clean plastic measuring jug.......just pull out enough to go below the min line on the reservoir.......when you push the pads and thus pistons back this will leave plenty of room for the brake fluid to rise in the reservoir.........at the end refill 75% of the brake fluid you have taken out (make sure its below the max line) and pump the brakes......you can then top up to the max line with no problems..... Nb you can buy a pad compressor for less than £10 which makes compressing the pads back to remove without damaging the caliper a lot easier....... Tools for the job from doing my pads and discs last year.......nb I also used axle stands and an impact screwdriver set not on the pic.... The all important punch and mallet to knock the pad retaining pins through...nb this punch is only just long enough before the wider collar catches on the caliper as you knock the pin all the way through......a heavy mallet makes this job so much easier unless your pins have already been removed recently.......you effectively have to shock the pin through the rust on it as the fit to the caliper hole is very very tight ;-) If your doing the discs a really good quality socket set particularly for the caliper bolts is essential....get that bolt snapped and the job becomes a lot lot harder ! It really is one of the those jobs where having the right tools for the job makes it soooooo much easier......but once you've done it you wonder what all the fuss was about :thumb:

In my experience of older cars (not so much Porsche specific but the principle holds) is that many jobs are easier on cars that have a good history of service work and maintenance. Something that has sat around and hasn't been looked after often has more seized bolts etc. I would happily take on the brakes on my car as I know they have been off in the last year and therefore less likely to challenge my limited ability and tools! Good luck.

Someone already mentioned a manual impact driver (the kind you hit with a hammer). These are invaluable, and cheap. Work a treat for removing those screws on the rotors without damaging them. The backing shims are something to be considered too. Some replace them with each change. They are glued to the backs of the pads. Track guys typically throw them away as it makes changing pads a doddle without them. I tried it and found some squealing on the street. Mine were detached from the pads when I removed them, so I didn't have to pry them off. I put them back in, but did not re-glue them to the pads. No noise, super easy pad changes.

The anti squeal shims on Porsche are separate to the pads.......but most pads have built in anti squeal backing now and so the shims are less essential........I just cleaned them up and replaced into their recesses

Yes, they are separate but have a peel and stick backing that sticks to the pad. Im some cases, they have naturally separated from the old pads (mine were), in others they have to be pried off the pad carefully.

Hi Martin, I've heard this before, but can't seem to find any slotted discs both front and rear (i cant find sebro front but not rear). Do you know of any good brands that do them? Also - got your PM re the big brake kit. Are you planning anything for the rear? I'd like to try and get a bolt on that works first but might cave in (also have been looking at the giro discs) Thanks James