987.2 cayman 2.9 plenum and tb install

I installed the IPD plenum and gt3 tb today and the install was a bit painful but it's done. Yay. My only real issue was the vacuum hose that attaches to the metal nipple on the plenum just won't go all the way on. I can get it slightly over the flange but not all the way over and snug against the plenum. The hose clamp seems to hold it ok but all the pics I see show the hose all the way on. I lubricated, heated with boiling water Etc and just can't get the hose to fit. Any tips? i have to say the overall fit was tight and the actuator / valve assembly didn't seem to line up perfectly. The arm on the actuator isn't completely straight when popped onto the valve ball end. It works but I just wish it lined up so the actuator moved straight in and out. I guess thats just a fit and finish issue. My plenum is an older non dimpled one so maybe that's why. I assume that if this actuator / valve doesn't work for some reason or gets stuck open down the line the car will throw a code? thanks!

You know, pics would help when describing an issue or a concern. That being said, people tend to sometimes overthink things. First of all - I absolutely love my IPD plenum and larger TB on my car, the only noticeable mod (power wise) I have done to my 3.4 DFI to date. But as you pointed out there are things left to be desired when coming to the fitting of the parts themselves. Of course - the TB is OEM so no issues there, but the elbow and plenum itself requires patience to be fitted properly. And one could argue that they don't actually fit as OEM, but they do fit. Probably why professional fitting is recommended (then you don't have to see how the mechanic will struggle just as you do ). The hose - it doesn't need to be all the way over but for purely aesthetic reasons I would also want it to be all the way over. Simple solution is to replace the hose with a slightly larger ID one. It could be that the IPD nipple is slightly larger than stock. Mine did fit just fine though... The actuator - I have a hard time understanding (here is where a pic would help). I had no issues fitting mine, but then again we don't have the same engine and probably it looks a little bit different on yours. I believe a non-working actuator would throw a code, but a working one that doesn't work the flap properly? I am unsure of that.... Anyways, congrats on the upgrade! :cheers:

Agreed on pics however it's impossible to take one now that the plenum is in. That canister is buried in the back. Basically the canister actuator arm that moves in and out with vacuum has to move at an angle vs straight. Just the way it lined up once screwed into the plenum and snapped onto the valve ball end. Hopefully it won't be an issue or ever stick open or closed. That possibility of sticking is what had me thinking of how would I know? Hopefully a code would get thrown if the whole intake valve assembly wasn't working correctly. Thanks!

Whats the car like after the mod? I have the same car and was considering getting this done as opposed to new headers

For reference, this is how mine looked like when installed: Don't know if this helps or not, but I can tell you that it performs just fine on my car. Either way I think you will be fine.

Congrats and also interested in the results. I've also got a 2.9 and have heard mixed hypotheses on whether or not these kids increase power Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. Looks same. Arm isn't straight but I'll trust it works

Pulls harder from 4 up. Im going to dyno it this weekend and see where I ended up. I did not dyno it stock so it will just be a comparison vs stock claimed flywheel horse. I've seen multiple references to 240 at the wheels so we shall see...

Hello All! Sting7777 i am glad you are satisfied with the install, we have seen great things from IPD and work closely with them to provide even further performance benefits to our customers. Amartkd i sent you a PM, let me know if I can help you on those headers of the IPD products as we are a supplier of both!

I really want headers . But I also really don't want to spend header money. Lol. Anyone have 2.9L dyno numbers for fabspeed headers ?

OK - so this is a follow up for anyone else with a 987.2 2.9 that does this install... I had some vibration in the rear hatch. And a clunk that happened typically with high torque low speed situations. I opened the engine compartment back up and found a couple things... 1.) the intake tube was touching the lip of the engine compartment opening and rubbing badly - silverdust everywhere. 2.) the TB lead was pulled tight and pinned under the tube as well. I had to button it back up and address these when I got home from work and heard the clunk noise a few more times. Not good. At first I thought maybe the butterfly was sticking closed. When I got it back open at home I found that the lip was now caught against the tube inside a shallow groove that the rubbing had worn. The noise was the lip catching and then popping out violently when the engine torqued hard enough. I ended up bending the lip upwards to free some space around the tube and then freeing the TB lead as well. I primed and painted the lip where it had worn and where my bending had scratched it and I will use some basalt touch up paint to make it look all pretty next week. (had to order some). So now the vibration is gone and no more clunk. I am going to replace the MAF and TB clamps with tbolt clamps and then wrap the intake tube in some silicone racers tape to both cover up the rubbed away part and to be able to tell if it comes in contact again although I don't think that's possible any more. I also replaced the hose coming into the metal nipple on the drivers side of the plenum an attached with two stainless breeze clamps - that metal ridge is not a barb - its a stop - at least on my plenum. So fiting the hose over it was never going to happen. Now its snugged up against the stop and the clamps ensure it doesn't move. Overall everything worked out fine and works great, but definitely some fitment issues / challenges to overcome at least in my 2011 2.9.

Pics.... The lip caught on the pipe: And after bending the lip and priming and painting: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had exactly the same issues with the intake tube rubbing on my 3.4 install and actually thought this now was covered by the install instructions? This is exactly why I said earlier that while it will fit it will not fit like OEM. I grinded down the area in question and painted it, but bending works as well. :cheers:

It is mentioned in the install article on this site!

Link? I didn't find a 987.2 plenum install article when I looked originally and used the IPD instructions... I just searched the articles again for plenum and didn't find anything.

In our Articles section and it was a 987.1 install but still applicable. If you want, feel free to start a wiki topic in the DIY forum section on a 987.2 install and include all the steps and relevant extra info since we can't control the manufacturer's PDF file.

Wouldn't expect you to. I briefly reviewed but ultimately didn't reference that article as its a completely different install on the gen 2. I think what you are referring to is maybe the additional install pdf that is linked in the install article? That mentions slightly bending up the tab. This was way more than that. In fact the tab is sort of off to the right so for my install it required bending the actual lip in a larger area. I don't know that I have enough info or pics for all the steps as I didn't expect to need anything outside of the install guide from IPD when I started but hopefully this post will help someone

Another quick note. I removed the intake tube today to install t-bolt clamps and found that the TB was rubbing on the chassis as well in two spots. I used a metal file to smooth the areas out where it had made contact but it was fairly worn away on one area. Just a heads up and something you may want to check. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on one of these, but have heard mixed reviews. What are your thoughts on value/$? I have a 2.9 non-DFI engine with aftermarket exhaust system and I'm hoping I see some HP gains if I do this install.

I think all you need to know is does the vendor guarantee the numbers they publish? If not, then you have your answer about you'll actually get after spending $1,000+. Eddie

I had the SAME issue...almost impossible to work it in there without bending the edge up, i did the same thing.

Guys...wanted to say that I did this install last year, and had similar issues as Sting. Had to fabricate some replacement vacuum lines as the junk OEM plastic ones snapped. The fitment is not an easy job, and be prepared to lean over your car AND under the car to fiddle with the shifter cables. However I will say that this mod is ABSOLUTELY worth it for mid-range punch and top end. While the 'mm' size difference doesn't sound like much, take a look at the pics I saved from my install...the GT3 TB is significantly larger. No...i did NOT have it dyno'ed before and after, but i 100% believe IPD's claims. The car is noticeably faster after this mod.

Oem on left, IPD on right

I'm sure your butt dyno is awesomely accurate but the placebo effect needs to be taken out of the equation for this. If IDP would guaranteed their numbers, that's all I'd need to hear on how legit this really is. I would buy this and document with a before and after dyno to see if it delivers. And of course, send it back if they were just "puffing" to sell product. And what's up with the poor fit and having to make bends for it to actually be installed? Eddie

Did you flip the clamps so the bolt is closer to the rear? I found that i had to really work hard to get them to close up and if they weren't it was because the rubber wasn't mating up to the plenum correctly. I wish I had a better answer than keep trying and maybe have a friend push down or be under the car to verify that its all lining up, bu this install is just a PITA. If you can post pics I might be able to make a suggestion.

Thank you Sting7777, looks like the right side isn't lined up and is pretty hard to line it up without pulling plenum towards rear. but pipe will be again hitting the chassis. i had the pipe bolted on first, did you close to halfmoon clamps first before bolting on the pipe?

Nothing about this was a breeze I ended up using a smaller bolt on the bottom left mounting hole because it was tight. I do recommend at least loosening that pipe - you're dealing with no flex with that guy bolted up tight. It will be a lot easier if you get the plenum seated and closed up with the clamps and then finalize the pipe to the TB. Good luck!

Thanks Sting7777, you were right, i had to loose the 4 bolts on the pipe, clearly align and i would say hardest part was to close the halfmoon clamp. getting the 4 bolts back for the pipe took a while, but for mine, i didn't have to bent chassis, there was still 3mm gap, so we are all good going to test the car now!! thanks again

That most likely isn't enough room. I had that much clearance but under heavy acceleration the engine rocks and the pope was getting caught on the lip. Definitely bend if you are keeping this mod.

Is that GT3 TB mounting bolt is similar with STD TB? They can fit with IPD 2.9 intake pipe? Thanks

For the 2.9L engine, can you get most/all the benefits of the IPD plenum without the GT3 throttle body ? Is it possible to have the gains with this mod for mid/upper range without the side effects for weaker lower range?