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YOUR RESEARCHFront end higher than rear after H&R spring install 987.1 Cayman S
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same unless you get micro
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I’ve measured my 19’s and it was the same unless you get micro
Front end higher than rear after H&R spring install 987.1 Cayman S
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Leading evidence: 'same unless you get micro' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'same unless you get micro' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Use 3mm + 6mm stacked together' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Some guys even used a 3mm + 6mm stacked together to give a 20mm drop versus 30mm the kit gives.
Front end higher than rear after H&R spring install 987.1 Cayman S
Use 6mm versions
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Pro-kit calls for use of 3mm spacer with Cayman, but I did not want it slammed so much so I am using the 6mm versions.
Front end higher than rear after H&R spring install 987.1 Cayman S
Use of 3mm spacer
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Pro-kit calls for use of 3mm spacer with Cayman, but I did not want it slammed so much so I am using the 6mm versions.
Front end higher than rear after H&R spring install 987.1 Cayman S
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Front end higher than rear after H&R spring install 987.1 Cayman S
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After installing a set of H&R sport springs (54020) on my 2008 CS, the front end is sitting about 1/4" higher than the rear. From center of wheel to top of wheel arch, the rear is at 14" and front 14.25". Consistent on both sides.
Has anyone dealt with this issue before?
Thanks!
It took at least two weeks for mine to settle but I don't drive it much.
Let it sit..... rather, drive it and keep an eye on it.
Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
It’s not uncommon to have this happen and it should settle... you could try jacking up the car, kinda high too!! so you compress each side... do it x 4, it should help and of course driving it...
Thanks guys!
It's been about 4 months including a track day...thinking it probably won't settle any more than it is now. I'll try compressing them with the jack method though and see if that helps.
Ya 4 months... hmmmm, what size
tires
are those?
I have the same springs... measure from the bottom of the fender lip to the ground and I’ll do the same, just to compare difference
You're telling me... have lowered all of my cars and this is the only one that hasn't settled in the front
No
PASM
and just did the springs. About 57k miles on the car
I've had this same issue on a previous 987 before and even my current
981
appears to sit lower in the back rather than the front with H&R, however both cars were/are perfectly level and the exact same height front to back when measuring the jackpoint areas on the frame from the ground. I would think its the cars chassis that matters, not the visual distance to the fender edge since the geometry on the body parts are not identical front to back and there is the weight of the engine back there? Its possible the visual bias was already there when stock but you just dont notice it due to the
tires
being farther away from the fender edge. 1/4" is a very small difference but maybe someone can confirm on a stock setup.
The bottom of my fender arch to the ground are both about 21.25” I do have the 18x8/10 BBS’s on with 235/275’s but the overall circumference is like .4 vs 19’s... but you get the just... I’ve measured my 19’s and it was the same unless you get micro
also, the taller the wheel, for some reason always gives an appearance of more wheel wheel gap...imo
I've noticed this too. I got H&R springs a few months ago and I feel like the Back sits a bit lower than the front. It hasn't bothered me too much since the difference doesnt seem to be major. I do have
pasm
if that makes a difference.
Yes, my
981
with the sport springs measures exactly 4 inches from the frame to the floor right at the front and rear jack points, so the car is dead level. It seems to be a visual trick of the back being lower due to differences in symmetry of the wheels and other parts of the car, but the car is properly level. Both front and back wheel arches to middle of center cap are the same at 13.5 inches
There is a factory wheel/tire diameter bias on the
981
making the rears about 1 inch larger diameter than the fronts that seems to add to this appearance, I seem to recall my 987 had this same taller rear tire setup.
Of course this wouldn't affect the actual measurements of the center of the wheel to arch as the OP states and would be only a visual illusion from the taller rear tire
Manueverworkes,
Went through this with too for my 2006 S w/
pasm
. There are different thickness rubber spacers for both front and rear that sit on the top of the spring. Ideally the front should be 1/2 to 3/4 " lower than back as measured at the inner control arm bolts. Pelican carries the spacers.
Below from:
Strut/spring spacer? - ******** - Porsche Discussion Forums
"Originally Posted by
qikqbn
https://********.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost.gif
These are spring spacer part numbers for Caymans... I actually had to use these with my Caymans Eibach Pro kit. Pro-kit calls for use of 3mm spacer with Cayman, but I did not want it slammed so much so I am using the 6mm versions. Some guys even used a 3mm + 6mm stacked together to give a 20mm drop versus 30mm the kit gives.
FRONT 3 mm = 996 343 511 00
FRONT 6.5 mm = 996 343 511 01
REAR 3 mm = 986 333 504 02
REAR 6 mm = 986 333 504 03
One other thing to consider is a worn out top strut mounts. The rubber bushing in the strut mount gets tired and stretches... Kind of like worn out motor mounts sag down, but in reverse for the strut mounts. The bushing can soften causing the front bushing to sag upwards and results in dropping the front lower than the rear."
Keep in mind there is a leverage/amplification effect because the strut are acting at a point on the lower control arm towards the centerline of the car.
Unfortunately you will have to go through the entire install procedure again and we both know the rear is a pain in the rear to do.
An alternative is to engineer spacer between strut tricks bolt plate and body for the rear so the strut does not have to be removed.
Hope this helps.
Keep an eye on this "new member" as it/he seems to just be a bot or someone that is randomly copying word for word other users post within the thread with minimal changes in order to look like a legitimate poster. Both of the post that have been made since just joining less than an hour ago are just copies of others words within the same discussion
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