996 Drivers window sticking when closing door

Hi Guys My 996 has developed an annoying little fault. Basically, when closing the door, the window doesn't pop back up properly into the rubbers, meaning effectively the door is closed, but the window not. To overcome this, I'm having to really SLAM the door closed, then the window sits correctly in the rubbers. What is odd is that the windows go up and down correctly. On opening the door they drop down the little bit as they should, but its simply just the closing of the door bit. Any advice?

If both inner and outer door handle drop the window 10mm, then I assume it will be the microswitch in the door lock not telling it the door has closed and it can raise the window 10mm again. Does the central locking lock without any fault horn beeps?

Shut your door normally then push your door handle in by hand. Sounds like the door handle is sticking slightly and not making the micro switch. If doing this the window goes back up then it's that. Probably due to lack of use over this year.

Thinking the same thing as slamming it works!!! Makes me whince thinking of really salmming the door eeek

I don't think the same microswitch tells the window to go back up. It must wait for the door to be properly shut before it can raise the window again. If I open the door, wait 5 seconds then slam it shut, the interior or exterior handle played no part in the closing of the door. My bet will be the Microswitches which tells it the door has been safety closed. The ones in the lock mechanism do this and an Audi TT pattern part new is around £35 on a 996.1 I've bought one in an effort to fix my intermittent central locking fault, but have not fitted it yet.

Probably the microswitch on the door latch Beware of the VW Audi door latch mechanism. Some are identical in looks and part numbers but mess up the alarm. I tried 3 different ones. I was under the impression the VW part was a straight replacement. In some cases it's not. I fitted one that worked perfectly and cured the window drop fault but made the alarm go off ever time it was unlocked. You might be fine but something to be aware of. I think the alarm circuitry is slightly different on some.

I'm afraid it does. There are 3 microswitches in the door that all have to be closed to enable the window to rise. If one is open the window won't go up. If the external door handle is slightly sticker and doesn't fully return to its closed position it thinks the handle is being pulled and someones trying to open the door. Also the interior lights will stay on. My passenger door is currently doing it as its hardly been used this year.

Made a video of mine doing it. Apologies for the quality - still dark up here. If you have this problem and the door is slammed, the force incurred when it shuts forces the handle to fully close, enabling the microswitch so the window will go up. The car has to see all 3 switches closed to enable the return up. If one or more switch is open, the window stays down.

But one of those 3 sensors and the one telling it the door is shut is in the door latch no? Whilst it could be a sticky door handle microswitch, it could also just as, if not more likely, be the one in the latch mechanism which tells the car, the door is shut and it may raise the window. Easy to try the exterior handle, but my money is on the door latch microswitch. I have to slam mine or the central locking doesn't work properly. When I bought my early Audi TT door latch mechanism, the seller made a clear point of describing it as the type which works with a 996.1. Apparently, it's something to do with how many of the pins in the connector are actually wired up to something and the 996.1 and early TT has more than the later TT's had. When I finally get around to fitting it, I'll find out!

Correct - it could be any one of the three. Is yours deffo the latch mechanism? Thats easy enough to check to - you just put your finger or a screwdriver in the mechanism and close the latch. Make sure you release it though before shutting your door. Ps. If I slam my door the window goes up. I went tjrough all 3 switches and diagnosed the fault correctly as slamming doors is not good practice.

Slamming doors should be punishable by death.

Top Tip, thank you. Never thought of narrowing it down like that. I reckon mine is either drivers door or bonnet which does the lock/instant unlock then 2 horn beeps. It then locks the second time, but gives another horn beep when you next unlock as a warning. :thumb:

Hi Guys - thanks for the feedback. On further inspection, I can see that when opening the door handle (outside) the window does not fully drop down. The part of the window closest the wing mirror barely drops, but the opposite side does. On opening, a little bit of downward pressure on the glass see's it drop sufficiently, so that when the door is closed the window pops back up as it should. Local indy thinks it needs a whole new window regulator system. Does this sound right to you guys? For me, the fact it seems to drop one end, but not the other, and the fact it returns and pops up as it should.. almost sounds like its just a bit "sticky" on the glass nearest the wing mirror. Thoughts? (at least I have a current work around that doesn't involve slamming)

I'd pop the door card off and see if the window is tightly clamped in the front holder of the regulator. Check for play in the cable at the front of the mechanism. Some allow adjustment. If you undo the clamps holding the glass, mark the position first with masking tape so you can get an approximate idea of where to reclamp the glass in the two clamps.

I'd say they're right. When my door latch microswitch failed I could partially pull the outside door handle with the door open and see the glass drop, but as soon as I let go of the handle then the glass returned to the top, before the door was latched, leaving me having to shut it carefully with the handle still pulled until the last milisecond. If you have your door open and the glass is still dropped then it's likely not an issue with microswitch. If the glass is misaligning it's likely because one of the cables in the regulator mech has stretched. That said, I'd do the window 'relearning' first and see whether or not that solves it.