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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWhich Glue for brake bal pad
Leading reported evidence
Replace of the pistons
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I ended up replacing all of the pistons with Racing Brake stainless pistons and, ironically, the dampers don't fit them.
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Suggestion
please do not use glue on your brakes .....anywhere...and please please have a mechanic double check your work
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Suggestion
+2 either replace the dampers with new ones or run without them.
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Suggestion
If you've dealt with old corroded/rusted ones like I have - it's still a bargain compared to replacing all of the caliper pistons.
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Suggestion
If it's track/street, they make pad changes a pain, so I run without them and I've never had any squealing, but YMMV.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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CRC disc brake quiet where needed and brake parts lube where needed. please do not use glue on your brakes .....anywhere...and please please have a mechanic double check your work
Are you serious? JB Weld, Gorilla glue, Super Glue...yikes! Here is my suggestion, throw those dampers in the trash and install new brake pads. I've run for years/many miles without those.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item2
Just be more precise, the glue is to be applied only between the damper and the pad (and not oozed out).
If you use JB weld, you may not be able to remove them next time.
Anytime! I've been able to reuse those dampers over and over with this method w/o any issues. Every time they are still glued to the pads firmly as designed. Just need a gentle pry using a scraper to separate them from the pads.
I thought this thread started April 1st until I checked ! No Glue ! You could use disc brake anti squeel- but I also run without the dampers on my rear pads - no issues
some owners need to surrender their locking wheel bolt socket to the dealer......others should have their engine compartment welded shut ..........for their safety as well as the general driving public
They're $15 each from suncoast - same from my local dealer. I have a C4S though, so maybe they're different prices - they look similar though.
Just remembered you use two per wheel. So 'not expensive' was a bit of an exaggeration. If you've dealt with old corroded/rusted ones like I have - it's still a bargain compared to replacing all of the caliper pistons.
Another poster is neglecting his car because his passenger door doesn't unlock. This guy needs to weld his engine compartment shut because he asked a question about brake dampers. You have some serious issues, my friend. You should seek help.
The dampers are in great shape / not even really needed- but Porsche put them on for a reason- Asai has it down - 600 $ all four corners will be perfect. New fluids, new tires, water pump, coils , plugs, Fister and ceramic coated headers,
New LN thermostat, April Wisconsin ready to go
Yeah, looking at the pics yours look fine. Mine fell apart when I took them out - and pieces were stuck in the pistons. It was a mess/headache. I ended up replacing all of the pistons with Racing Brake stainless pistons and, ironically, the dampers don't fit them.
Absolutely. My speculation is it serves 3 purposes:
- the extra layer between the pad and the piston slows down heat trasnfer to the piston (then to the brake fluid)
- the aluminum slugs act as a heat sink
- the aluminum slugs act as a counterweight to dampen brake pad vibration
Everybody knows that unsprung weight can only hurt handling and you think Porsche will put some dead weight there for no good reason just to hurt handling?
Their only real benefit is to mitigate brake pad squeal by keeping the brake pad from moving around within the caliper relative to the pistons.
Here's the alternate version of the dampers, which may be cheaper:
That is not an alternative version of the front brake dampers. That's the dampers for the rear brakes. I agree with what you said for the rear brakes though.
Ah, my bad - thanks for pointing that out!
IMO, for a car that's purely street driven, there's no reason not to use them. If it's track/street, they make pad changes a pain, so I run without them and I've never had any squealing, but YMMV.
If OP is insistent on using them, he should just re-use existing dampers, IMO. That seems like the most cost effective solution. Some copper anti-seize on them should prevent them corroding to the inside bore of the pistons.
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