Door adjustment for better window alignment 997.2 - Page 1 - 911/Carrera GT - PistonHeads UK

Hi all, I was thinking of replacing the door seal on the drivers side as a little wind noise at speed, then I noticed the alignment of the door looks like it's would benefit from a tweak, I haven't found a good link of how this might be done yet, any advice ? The picture shows the driver side and passenger side and you can see the difference and the glass of the door and rear window are flush on the passenger side and the door is more open on the drivers side. I'd say 1-2mm of movement in on the drivers side required to match. Drivers side bottom picture

To adjust the top of the window so it comes in more, you undo the nut holding the actuator in place, remove the rubber cap, and with a piece of paper between the top of the door and the seal, you then move it forward towards the outside of the door until it grabs the paper tight, but not quite where you can't still pull it out (otherwise it will not close). There are two bolts, btw. so best to 'loosen' them both to make it easier. I saw loosen as you just wont them undone enough to be able to move the window actuator back and forth. The torx screws people mention are for adjusting window height, to make sure the glass it up under the lip on the seal at the top when fully closed. I think they are 4mm. But you probably won't need to touch them. Edit: found and image, adjust the bolt not the hex, unless you need to raise lower the point where the window ends up once closed...

Tks

Hmmm, is the image behind what looks like an adjustable door latch or is this adjustable ?

Put some tape around the outside and lower of the part in the last image so you know your original position , loosen the bolts slightly and move part in board 2mm , tighten and then close door again to check alignment .

Adrian-9iafn said: Hmmm, is the image behind what looks like an adjustable door latch or is this adjustable ? No. It is on the bottom of the door. There are 4 rubber bungs that you remove to allow access. The bolt is what you are after, undo it, push it towards the outside of the door and the window moves inwards. Think of it as the top of the door frame being the centre point and it pivoting on that as you move the bottom in and out. Are you thinking the back window is protruding too far rather than the front window not sitting recessed enough? I would adjust the front window first. If the back window is loose there are bolts holding it in place, but that just usually rattles a bit rather than sticking out too far.

Thanks, it looks like the drivers door sits a little too far out, the picture at the bottom is the passenger side, top the drivers side, the curved glass makes it more difficult to see in photos, by eye the whole door is not seating far enough into the shell by 1-2mm

Hi Adrian-9iafn, did you make any progress with the adjustment? I think I have the same going on.

Adrian-9iafn said: I missed your earlier reply. That door looks like it is sat about right to be honest. The door is designed to sit around 1mm further out than the rear panel, is is called fish-gill effect, and it helps with aerodynamics and noise. It may be a smidge more than ideal, but not sure it would cause the noise. You can adjust the strike plate slightly, be carful to use the correct spline socket though as they screws are really soft and easy to damage. That may help, but I have found that it is the glass that makes the noise and after playing around you can stop it. Edited by Ed.Neumann on Thursday 13th June 16:34

Hi all, I have the door lock mechanism challenge as well (window opening but going back up before the door is closed with the auto drop function not working) So I am going to do look at everything st the same time. The inner door panel is finally off and the airbag and inner door panel, the Pelican video's were the best source of information. I didnthave a 'triple square' 6mm socket and couldn't quite establish if Spline is the same so ordered some as it sees the countersunk bolts can round off easily and tight Picture below with door card removed (quite heavy actually, but nicely made)

Did you adjust the door plate/catch at all? Sitting right now? Just put a new VW door catch in, about £30 and will sort the window drop.

I am hoping to get the window working and look at the other adjustments at the same time, so not adjusted anything yet

Another few hours and nearly there, I just need to get a few more door carp poppers as one missing and two 'stretched' so I'll finish it off soon. I spent some time with the two T30 bolts that allow the window to be adjusted up, down and L,R. So I spent some time measuring and looking at the passenger and then adjusting. If you lift the handle just enough to drop the window with the door closed you can then measure the 'gap' I also carefully measured the distancs and circa 13-14 mm gap on the top and 8mm glass to glass on the side. Now very 'snug' and looks perfect my window was some 5mm dropped at the back, so hopefully this will be quiet and good at speed

If anyone goes through the pain of replacing the lock mechanism The bits I found tricky were removing the outer door handle link to the mechanism. When off you can rotate the light buff plastic attachment to swap on to the lock mechanism, but what I had not realised was there is a metal bolt that is 'revealed' under where my thumb is that is what you pop out to release the mechanism. I spent over an hour thinking the buff plastic clip would pop off and it wont until it's off the car, but the bolt you can see when looking into the car door area will pop out ! The other time consuming part was understanding what to press to release the electric clip on the mechanism (blue socket, again near my thumb). The easiest way to find this electric plug releases is to look at the smaller cable that is below they are the same design and have a clip to release before they pull off the car. Edited by Adrian-9iafn on Sunday 28th July 09:13