Steering rack access - crusty pipes

I'm working my way around my 1998 C2, carrying out a complete suspension refresh and dealing with other problems as they become apparent. I've noticed that the steering rack hard pipes look a bit crusty and the crimp on what I believe is the low pressure hose is giving way (see photo). Access is pretty tight in here and I'd also like to change the inner track rods, so to gain access, should I be dropping the front sub-frame? I can't see how else I can really get in to that area. I don't want to disturb the power steering pipes to much though, having seen the replacement cost! I gather that the recommended procedure for the crimp is to put a stainless steel Jubilee clip on...

You don't need to, but it's easier. It'll slide out if you can disconnect it. However, those pipes are long and a bitch to change (well on a turbo) you can just put a jubilee clip on. I changed mine. The connections seize themselves in to the rack so not an easy job, but it's a common problem.

Changing the inner track rods is a pain but you don't need to drop the subframe. I managed it with a big spanner but if I was to do it again I'd get one of the inner track rod tools which would make the experience pretty simple.

I dropped the subframe and fitted new rigid pipes on the rack. A mechanic friend helped me as everything is heavy and cumbersome. Pipes from a shed in Borsall Common!! Also do the transverse brake pipe which travels above the steering rack. I used a porsche pipe and it came with the bends all in the right places. I found they had altered the design. On the right hand side the pipe went under a metal strap / bracket. The new one went over the bracket. It also helps having a fairly empty fuel tank as this sits in the subframe! Difficulty rating 6/10. Good luck. Ian

Ah - the fuel tank is sitting on the sub-frame? I'd not considered that. My tank is fairly full right now, so I'll just do the jubilee clip fix and the inner track rods for the moment - the hard lines can wait a bit longer I think.

You can paint some POR15 on your PS lines to help them last a bit longer, I did mine a while back when I had my subframe dropped and they still look fine 2 years on. I also did the jubilee clip fix (I used 2 next to each other) I may have even been the first to do this bodge on the aluminium ferrule, that was almost a decade ago, the slight misting on them stops any further corrosion.

Last time my car went in for service the garage fitted the jubilee clips as a safeguard. They have seen so many of these they do it as routine. No cost just told me for info, and said would remove if I didn't want it on Independent was Dove House, won't take car anywhere else always look after me

Rack arms in situ .. Wheel off , full lock , hold it there and remove the ignition key .. Crack off the 21mm track rod nut . buzz off the 18 mm track rod nut .. spray some sort of lubricant on the track rod rubber boot and use a ball joint splitter .. not the tuning fork type . remove track rod end and nut. Pull back the gaiter so cut or a long screwdriver to remove the rack gaiter inner clip ... you prise under the the end of the clip and lift .. it will break the connection of the clip . Standard size is 32mm .. i use a spanner .. replacement size is normally a 36mm .. again i use a spanner .. Replacement and i prefer to use a wee bit of locktight on the threads .. i'm always dubious about over tightening whilst also making sure it won't come loose . You will need front end tracking after this job .. forget counting the threads .. a track and adjust is what i would advise ... Full Geo and the arms at the rear might not come undone .. even more cost at that point . Low pressure pas ferrule .. a jubilee clip works just fine . To remove the rack you have the option of subframe in or out .. in and it's a bit of a wiggle .. second person is sometimes needed when refitting or drop the subframe .. Mechanics option there . it comes out of the o/s/f if not dropping the frame . You picture .. To be honest i've seen far worse that are not leaking .. If it was me i would be inclined to spray something like wax oil or a derivative over the pipes and leave well alone .

Thank you for the detailed advice - I'm going to follow your advice and squirt some Dinitrol over the rusty pipes, fit a couple of Jubilee clips and call that a day for the pipes. Fortunately access isn't too bad as all suspension arms etc are out at the moment - I'll definitely do the innner track rods - I'm sure the boot clips will be a fiddle but not impossible. About the rear arm bolts - might be seized, you say? :lol: Well, the adjuster bolt for one of the coffin arms came out in the normal manner, but lets just say I'm really glad that I spotted Infrasilver's long thread where it became obvious how much easier access is once the rear sub-frames have been dropped out of the car - and how easy that is to do. Thank you so much for sharing! The next challenge is cutting the adjuster bolt for the rear toe arms - I can't use the band saw on those, so I'm going to see how well my little air hacksaw works - wish me luck!

Success - both toe arms have now been air-hacksawed out of the rear subframes. The bolts were (still are!) seized rock solid to the bushes in the arms, so chopping both ends of the bolts was the only option. A tedious job but nowhere near as difficult as it would've been underneath the car. My next question is regarding the steering rack rubber boots - there seems to be two sizes - 48mm & 52mm. Ithink that the 48mm version is for older steering racks. Apart from taking the boot off and measuring the relevant part of the rack, is there an easy way to identify which rack I might have? (I'm guessing that mine will be 48mm beacause (a) that seems to be the older variant and (b) it's more expensive).

Good work on the rear! Just done similar on my 986 but was able to do the cutting with a reciprocating saw with the coffin arms and toe links still in place (lay out is a bit different to 996 but not much). If you are worried about PS pipes, try this link: https://wooliesworkshop.com/product...-996-porsche-boxster-986-97-05-996-347-012-08

If you need to do the rack transfer pipes I'd recommend droping the front subframe then rack and unclipping the lines to drop everything down rather than try and remove the lines from the rack. They seize in the rack and are likely to get ruined trying to remove them. It's awkward doing the transfer pipes under the car, but by no means impossible so it was a better option for me.

This is the guy who actually makes them. When I went in he said he supplies them to lots of other companies. http://www.powersteeringstore.co.uk...&min_price=15&max_price=100&manufacturer[]=25

That's where mine came from, fitted perfectly.

I'm doing a similar job on my wifes cooper S at the moment and have encountered some very seized/rusted bolts. After some research I found this stuff which has worked wonders! https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BNUED3U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1