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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHStripped front suspension to body bolt 2003 996
Leading reported evidence
Check torque
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I put the car up today and using the torque specs in the factory service manual I checked torque on most of the front suspension bolts.
Leading evidence: 'Check torque' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'best way' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check torque' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
But I have never had any Helicoil I have used fail so have not tested that theory.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Yes I've done a Heli-coil before and I agree that's probably the best way to go.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I had a similar issue in another car I owned years ago and figured out it was the front subframe bolts so I started looking at that.
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Suspected cause
That front knocking is more than likely the thrust control arms/caster arms.
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Suggestion
even if you are lucky the bolt comes out you will still need to get access to the welded nut....if you can you can just hold the nut and tighten ...if not body shop time
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
I had to do similar for a rear suspension bolt on my car and it worked perfectly.
My new to me 2003 996 Carrera has a popping noise in the right front noticeable at low speeds going over bumps and when turning (such as going in/out of driveway). I had a similar issue in another car I owned years ago and figured out it was the front subframe bolts so I started looking at that.
I put the car up today and using the torque specs in the factory service manual I checked torque on most of the front suspension bolts. I found the right front side member (as the FSM calls it) plate bolts were loose.
When I went to torque them (116 ft lbs per the FSM) the front one would only hold about 20 ft lbs....just spins and spins.
How should I handle this? I did not back the bolt out yet. If any of you have run across this let me know....it appears that there is not a nut on the other side, this is a weld nut integral to the body.
Thanks!
Surprised the torque value is that high...
Apples to oranges, but for my 1988 suspension torque is 80ft/lbs... Are you sure that's not Newton meters or something?
Lug nuts are 90..,
116 ft lbs is a lot...
Well regardless it just spun from the moment I started turning. Did not even reach maybe 20 ft lbs. The other side was 116 from the get go, did not even turn.
I rebuilt my entire suspension on my 1982 911 (like your '88) and I do recall the torque values being lower, but gosh it's 10+ years ago that I did that.
even if you are lucky the bolt comes out you will still need to get access to the welded nut....if you can you can just hold the nut and tighten ...if not body shop time
I hear ya. I'd probably fix myself though...I have a garage full of tools including a welder...and enough knowledge to be dangerous.
I just pulled the bolt. The bolt is fine but the threads from the nut are wrapped up in the bolt. Going to try running a tap to chase the threads and cross my fingers. Stay tuned...
Best bet is probably going to be a heli-coil. If you are unsure about how to install, get a pro to do it for you. Done right it'll hold the torque no problem and last the life of the vehicle. Done wrong, you may need to cut the fitting out and weld a replacement in. So get it done right!
I wouldn't run a tap in there, you are going to pull material that you may need for the heli-coil, you want as much material left as you can get. You'll need a tap for the coil anyway, just use that one and be done with it.
Yes I've done a Heli-coil before and I agree that's probably the best way to go. I could drill and tap it up to an M14 (it's an M12x1.5 bolt) but the OD may be larger than the bracket hole there. Fortunately the weld nut is only about 5/8" deep so not far to go in there.
That front knocking is more than likely the thrust control arms/caster arms. Also sometimes known as "tuning forks". Although very difficult to diagnose main point is a metallic clunk at low speed bumps.
That circled bolt is only 74 ft lbs
Check out this for more info on replacing when you get it sorted:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ront-rear.html
Yeah I figured that out. The bolt behind it is 116 ft lbs. Regardless it was stripped before I got there. Ordered a Helicoil kit. I'll check out the tuning forks, Thanks!
That's a good thought. The bolt seems correct but I will pull the other side and compare...also I'll check the length in the factory parts manual, they usually list the size/length of bolts. Thanks!
If you torqued those bolts to 116, and they are supposed to be 76, you may have fatigued those bolts and compromised them...
You may want to remove, and re-torque... though not sure if that's better than just leaving it alone....
Thanks, I did not fortunately. This one just turned and turned, did not even reach 20. The other bolts on the side member are 116 except for these front ones. Interestingly this same bolt (that is supposed to be 74) clicked out at 116 on the other side...as in it did not turn, it just torqued out immediately.
So maybe someone else before me made the same mistake with regard to torque values and torqued them all to 116...only happened to strip the right front, the left front held it. It's confusing in the factory manual, and even more confusing b/c the bolts all have the same heads and look the same, and thread into the body.
I doubt the bolts are fatigued...it appears the weak point is the weld nuts in the body, they appear to strip long before the bolt does. Would be nice if it were designed the opposite way...it's much easier to replace a bolt than a nut welded into a blind void in the car body!
Fist step is to remove the bolt and see what is happening. Only then, decided what to do next. You might be lucky. Until the bolt is out, there is no use to guess.
Yes as stated above I took the bolt out yesterday. The bolt itself is fine, the weld nut in the body is stripped. I ran a chase/tap in it but it would only hold about 20 still. Ordered a helicoil kit.
I'm more of a timesert guy rather than a helicoil, but either way you're on the right path. I just wanted to chime in that the ball joint in the control arm is another common source of the noise you're describing. The boot is frequently cracked/damaged and it's very difficult to see when it's assembled and under load. Good luck on resolving the issue.
I agree I generally like Time-sert better but I am afraid the OD of the timesert may not clear the bracket. Fortunately in my experience the OD of a Helicoil is smaller than the diameter of a Time-sert...such that if the Helicoil failed you could go up to a Time-sert I would think.
But I have never had any Helicoil I have used fail so have not tested that theory.
Why not just drill and tap it to the next size up? You need to do that anyways to install the insert so why not just save your time/money/drama and do it the easy way?
