Socket purchase -noob question

I am looking at doing some work on my 1999 996. I am new to this and am just starting to purchase some tools. I would like to buy a socket set and want to make sure I buy a set that will allow to complete some beginner DIYs . E.g. Oil change, accessory belt, coolant flush... Any suggestions on a size range for the sockets. Thank you

200 bucks on sale at cdn tire, i have had mine for over 10 years i purchased i dont know how many sets before and was always missing something

Snap-on is arguably the best. I'd start with 3/8" drive 8-22 mm. You can pick them up used on eBay or Garage Journal.

Go to Harbor Freight and get a set of deep metric sockets and short sockets. 7mm-19 will get you through most chores. Then just buy a bunch of one offs as you need them. If you like wrenching, you can upgrade to better tools. I've still got a couple drawers of HF tools and use them. Professionals might need higher quality, but for most of the weekend mechanics, cheaper tools fit the bill. -td

Flame on Nuttin wrong with HF tools for a DIYer. No need to spend big $ for snapon A pro, sure. DIYer, not needed

Buy cheap sockets but invest in good ratchets. I would say 10-24mm in every size, standard and deep. Plus a variety of extensions up to about 18 inches. You may also need at least an 18in breaker bar. Wobble joints/universal joints are useful as well. Craftsman has been my brand but I have a huge 120 piece set from HF (Pittsburg brand) that I have used every day for the past 10 years.

In addition to wrenches you will need low profile trolley jack, a hockey puck and 4 jack stands. A 24MM socket on the end of a large torsion bar works well for the serpentine belt removal. A collapsible spider for wheel nuts.

A torx screwdriver set will come in handy too

I wonder if suggesting a torque wrench would be useful. I bought one at HF about 8 years ago and still working well. The "click" type. Not all anticipated jobs will need it, but it will happen soon. Which reminds me -- as another 996 noob -- does anyone know if there is a quick reference on torque specs for the 996, perhaps a small tech book PDF or web site or something like that? A couple of things popped up by search, for example this http://lnengineering.com/education/9...utomobile.html ($59.95 ???) but are there other references ? Thanks.

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What is a "collapsible spider"

For the core tools I've always gone with craftsman. They're somewhere between harbor freight and snap on in terms of price and quality (closer to snap on IMHO) and have an incredible replacement policy. Look for a set that has sockets and ratchets for 1/4 and 3/8 (1/2 comes in handy from time to time). A good set of screw drivers and some pliers as well. I'd also recommend a torque wrench - probably 3/8 drive that can do 10-75 ft/lb. since the oil drain plug requires one. You can also rent torque wrenches for free from autozone to start with.

Check the pawn shops for good cheap tools...

Also Craigslist can be a good source for used tools. Always better to buy better quality, nothing worse than having a cheaply made socket strip out a critical bolt.

HF also has lifetime free replacement on most hand tools

A set of Gearwrenchs is very handy, I have both the fixed and the swivel heads. I am OK with most Mastercraft tools from CT, and Craftsman from Sears. For screwdrivers I do stick with Snap On. Except for when I am working on Jap cars/bikes, then for screwdrivers I use the JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) sets from Vessel Tools. The Jap cross heads screws are indeed different from US/European ones.

I've had really good luck with Tekton off of amazon. There is a Porsche tool list in the 101 996Projects book that I purchased off of originally and it has served me very well.

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I've been 100% happy with my Craftsman mechanic's tool set that I've gradually expanded over the years, but I'm not sure I can recommend them with Sears being bankrupt; who knows if anybody will be around to honor the free replacement guarantee in the future? Whatever you get, it helps to have a lot of types of tools in the same size; regular sockets, deep sockets, ratcheting box wrenches, etc. A lot of times a nut and bolt clamping something are the same size, so you need at least 2 tools of every size to be sure you can take everything apart. You'll probably also want a set of hex sockets and Torx sockets, and if you get further into Porsche or VAG stuff you'll eventually want a set of triple-square sockets and external Torx. Also invest in a good torque wrench for important things like wheel bolts, brake/suspension fasteners, spark plugs, etc. that need to be torqued correctly.

http://www.kmart.com/my-first-crafts...w.ds#Imagezoom

If you care about what you are working on then the words harbor freight and tools should never be spoken together...ever

if money is no object.....SNAP-ON

My collect consists of mostly craftsman and gearwrench. For speciality tools and torque wrenches, its snap-on, those are things you don't want to skimp on.

Kobalt is what I use. Their 227 piece mechanic's tool set goes on sale occasionally for $100, regular price is $199. Lifetime warranty, and I have yet to break a socket. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-227-...-Hard/50200795

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Horse hockey For general stuff, HF is fine Rebuilding an engine, well that's a different story Don't be a tool snob

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Ding, ding, ding. Go to any pawn shop. Put together a big box of hand tools, try to get a Craftsman, snap-on, or other brand name ratchet. Get 3/8 and 1/4 drive kits. Metric standard type sockets, deep well sockets, swivel head socket set, torx, allen head drive, big blade and phillips screwdrivers, pry bars, hammer, various sets of pliers and needle nose, angle needle nose, etc. You may not use all of them for a long time, but when you buy in bulk, take your box over to the register and whatever number they say, cut it down by 30%. (don't drive the Porsche to the pawn shop, take a beater). Haggle a bit, and go home happy.

one can and should do much better than harbor freight if you want to spend the money.

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I dont have much experience with HF tools, but 20 yrs ago I would have categorcally agreed with you about cheap tools, particularly sockets and wrenches. Today, not so much. Fit of modern tools (cheap) are far superior to what they used to be. Screwdrivers still suck.

well its fairly easy there is no harbor freight in Canada for the OP

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to each his own, but it has nothing to do with being a snob. Better tools are better not because of the price. The material they use and the precision of their measure are vastly superior. Light duty stuff may not matter but if you have a stubborn fastener, you are going to want quality tools. It can be the difference between a massive headache or getting the job done. There is a reason you will never see a pro using cheap sockets

I will say that the $100 transmission jack I got at Harb Freight is a frickin lifesaver. Never tried any of their tools though.

Wander the isles at Canadian Tire, they often have the large socket and tool sets on sale. If you brake a Mastercraft branded tool just take it back for a replacement no questions asked. I'd also recomend you pick-up a long breaker bar, 3"-6" extention and a socket to fit your wheel lugs and leave them in the frunk. I got a flat a few years back tried the factory lug tool and it split, that was the only time the car has been on a two truck.

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^Total BS^... for anybody doing work on a non 8 hour a day, 5 or 6 day a week schedule, Pittsburgh tools are mostly fine. Yes some of them are lousy quality, but it's pretty easy to pick those out and not but them. They also have a few different grades or price points to choose from - once again, it's pretty easy to differentiate the garbage from the decent stuff. For example, I've got a few sets of their impact sockets (SAE and Metric) that I've been using regularly for about 3 - 5 years without a broken or rounded socket. If they all broke tomorrow, I could buy them all new again and still have spent less than one set of Snap-on's or Mac's... just sayin😉

The cheap tools are great until you round off a fastener the night before a track day. All of a sudden the money saved doesn't seem so important. m3driver is right. And I've never seen a pro use cheap sockets. It's just false economy.

That's because pro's are using them day in and day out for occasional use you don't need to spend $$$ BTW, I have a bunch of craftsman tools. Old ones and they are great. The new ones are no better than HF

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they dont use them them because they wear out, they don't use them, because they don't use garbage when it counts. If it was just about the money every pro on the planet would be using HF tools. Its much more than that. Buy some quality tools and use them, there is a difference

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Princess Auto for us Canucks

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...and they can finance them straight off the truck. Ask your average mechanic (and I know quite a few) how much is on their "tab" with SnapOn...."owe my sole to the company store". Impulse marketing at its finest level. REALLY nice stuff though, in most cases. Casio vs Rolex

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^total truth^..........craftsman is the lowest grade of tools i will buy. Harbor freight buyers work on things............snap-on buyers repair things . I have found HF a good source for little kits of e-clips,roll pins,cotter pins etc.....they sell kits that have different sizes /assortments but their jacks,tools etc are not imho heavy duty by any sense .

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i have 4 boxes macs/snaps/2 filled.......also a snap scan tool that turned white elephant in 07 that from day one till 07 has 14 grand in it [purchase/up dates] snap lab scope .........taken one tool at a time easily 45 grand new .had em all,sk,proto,williams etc........if i wanted to save a few bucks i bought mac

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is a set of plastic coated sockets for rim removal and replace. Saves the finish on the rims. And please use a torque wrench when tightening the wheel nuts. My '02 specs 96 ft lbs and one of the biggest problems is bad torque causing possible brake shake and often so tight you can't remove them if you get stuck on the road. FWIW I also like Kobalt tools from Lowes. Good quality, fair price and also a lifetime warranty.

Look, you need one of these if you are going to own a 996. Period. End of story. If you don't have one, you aren't a real man.

And while the Snap-On toolbox above is nice, Armstrong makes Snap-On look and feel like Chinese junk. Amazon Amazon When your reputation and your family's lives are on the line, you don't trust some guy selling tools out of his trunk.

Sears recently sold the Craftsman brand to Black and Decker: Sears sells Craftsman . So the brand will live on. In the home depot for home tools, it seems like some B&D products are not the highest quality. But they probably will maintain the high quality of the Craftsman labeled tools otherwise this purchase / plan would make no sense.

You recommend snap-on but use Mobile 1? That makes no sense at all.

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My point exactly. If you are a pro usuing them day in/day out, snapon makes sense. For most normal people, HF and others are fine Most HF tools are not garbage. A few, sure, but their sockets and wrenches are fine. It all comes down use and cost. If I had unlimited funds like some here, I might consider snapon for all my tools BTW., the old craftsman tools were made by Moore Drop Forge, the same as Snapon I believe Same with the HF torque wrench. For most stuff, they are fine. Rebuilding an engine, well no. BTW, I had my HF torque wrenches tested and they were within 1 %. I can buy at least 20 of them for the cost of 1 snapon one

Lots of talk about HF vs. Craftsman. For small/normal jobs with sockets you can probably use either and not notice much of a difference. BUT as soon as you start pushing extremes (IE using a 3/8" socket through an adapter to 1/2" on the end of a 24" breaker bar because you don't have a 1/2" socket in 6 point, or in deep well, or for whatever other reason) you're going to start snapping HF stuff quick. I just twisted a HF 3/8" extension apart replacing my engine mounts a couple months ago. Of course, that is a rare case - but here is yet another example and a word of caution... When I installed my IMS Solution I needed to remove and later re-install a snap ring. Easy as cake, right? Well I didn't have snap ring pliers and since I just had to do this once I decided to get a $5 set from Harbor Freight. Big mistake. I spent 45 frustrating minutes under the car trying to get that snap ring out. I not only wasted time but I risked damaging the ring trying to get an absolute piece of crap flimsy set of pliers to work properly. I eventually got it out using a combination of the pliers and a screw driver, but it was not easy. Re-installing it was impossible. I eventually gave up, drove to Sears and bought a set of Craftsman pliers. The ring went in in 5 seconds. I just started laughing because it was so ridiculously easy with a quality tool.

^X2 on the above. Some tools are just worth the extra money.

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^^Me too^^ I've got a bunch of Craftsman stuff that's well over 40 years old. About a year ago I brought back an old 3/8" ratchet handle that had broken (the gears not the actual handle). Sure enough, they replaced it with a brand new one. The new one is visibly smaller/thinner and lighter than the original and doesn't really instill a lot of confidence in it's longevity. So far it's been fine, though I use several of my other ratchets more often.

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And... some aren't

Buy an impact driver OR buy a bolt extraction kit OR a good set of carbide drill bits. Rotor retaining screws.

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Yes, some of the Chinese crap at Harbor Freight is abysmal...but a HF sledge hammer will break crap just as effectively as a Craftsman sledge hammer. I know my HF stick welder and flux welders are crap, but have you seen my welds? Snap-On tools for most of us is akin to a 300-pound guy buying a carbon-fiber seat post for his bike...

Guy asks what sockets to buy, and starts a four page (and counting) thread. Sheesh. BTW, what's the best oil?

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Thats called using the wrong tool for the job. When you start cobbling **** together, you'll break plenty of stuff from pittsburgh to snap on. The benefit, however, is that for the price of craftsman, you can get the same tool from HF, as well as the 1/2" socket in 6 point or in deep well or whatever other tool you need, so you don't have to try to make something work instead of just having the right tool.

Get a Mastercraft socket set from Canadian Tire when it's on sale (get the ones that are $200-up before the sale), a set of triple square sockets, some pliers, screw drivers and so as as they come on sale at CT and a spark plug ratchet that looks like this: https://www.google.ca/search?q=spark...P_JjCH0lpwnGM:

If you use DT-40 then the money you save on an engine rebuild can go towards buying snap-on tools!

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Says the one who reuses brake fluid after bleeding

So lots talk about the brand of tools, but not what tools are needed. In addition to sockets both short and long from 8mm-22mm you may need the following sockets. If you get inside the motor, you will need 12 point sockets (at least a 10mm) 1. Triple Square Socket Set 2. Torx Socket Set 3. Internal Torx Socket Set 4. 11mm Flare Nut Wrench (for bleeding brakes) 5. 24 MM Wrench 6. 19MM Deep Socket for Lugs 7. Torque Wrench (ft pound and inch pound) 8. Swivel/Extensions 9. 32mm Socket (axle nuts) 10. Good assortment of screwdrivers 11. Metric Hex Head (allan key) sockets With the tools above, you should pretty much be able to take apart the entire car. For the record, I use mostly craftsman. Their return policy and quality has become crap though. Harbor Freight is good for jacks. Their 2 Ton Low Profile Steel Jack is heavy, but gets under everything and lisfts over two feet with a minimum height of under 3". BTW, you need a jack, jackstands and breaker bar.

Ya but it's Castrol SRF. They charge more for that crap than Dom Perignon. Of course I guess it has less bubbles than Dom so you get what you pay for. Now that being said, you were supposed to talk about oil, not my brake fluid. Come on guys, let's talk oil!

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This post makes zero sense to me...it's like buying the cheapest tires you can for your car, as most people are not pros and would never exploit the benefits of a good tires. Then these same people wonder why their tireso are crap in the rain, or just crap in general. I personally don't care what people use. But to say the HF stuff is fine is BS, it's garbage and no amount of justification will change that

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and yet...it works. I have a bunch of pittsburgh wrenches. I guess I got lucky because they fit fasteners well, hold up just fine, and can be used as a hammer with no worries. Not to mention, who the hell are you? Your opinion about HF tools is just that. My opinion is that some, not all, harbor freight tools work perfectly fine.

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^That^ is a **** poor analogy... a�nal�o�gy əˈnaləjē/Submit noun a comparison between two things, typically for the purpose of explanation or clarification. "an analogy between the workings of nature and those of human societies" a correspondence or partial similarity. "the syndrome is called deep dysgraphia because of its analogy to deep dyslexia" a thing that is comparable to something else in significant respects. "works of art were seen as an analogy for works of nature"... Tires have real handling and safety benefits, as well as huge variables due to weather, temperature, road conditions and driving parameters. In the case of a socket, it either works or it doesn't. A Snap-On socket of the proper size doesn't tighten a bolt or nut any better or differently than a HF socket of the proper size. While the question of whether it's suitable for professional applications is real and somewhat relevant, it's already been addressed several times in this thread and I think we all agree that (at least some) HF tools probably aren't up to the standards of professional use. To say HF stuff is garbage is just silly... Marketing people love cool-aide drinkers

funny this thread brought out a few TOOLS that are on a cheap o budget .....even one that posted a kit for ken to work on barbies car......how cute

^^speaking of tools^^

and tinkerbells

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Holy sheet! Oliver, you're going soft on us, being all reasonable and everything. Where's the fun in that? I mean, really, we have a thing. We all know how it works: you come in here, insult us and our cars, then we bash you back to the lawn-mower engined forum. It works. For all of us. Don't screw that up now. Now, there's the response we were all waiting for. extinker, I thought for a little while that you were going soft on us, too. Thank God you came back around. You are the wind beneath my wings . . .

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OUCH! That's just brutal!!! "Now, there's the response we were all waiting for. extinker, I thought for a little while that you were going soft on us, too. Thank God you came back around. You are the wind beneath my wings . . ." ^^Just what we need, a lawyer to fan the flames of dissent^^

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this is the exact response from someone who doesn't have a clue. You can use whatever you want and justify it anyway you want. If you like the elcheapo crap and want to use that garbage on your stuff, then by all means use it. And my tire analogy was spot on...you just proved it

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So you are saying that you should buy the most expensive tires regardless of the use and need? More $$ makes it better? Saying all HF tools are garbage is BS. I know several top mechanics that have a few HF tools. Do they use them everyday, probably not. They are for a few odd tasks they don't do very often and didn't want to spend 10x the cost Plain and simple you are a TOOL SNOB You Tube

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Uh, I put the definition of ANALOGY in my response for your benefit... In case you missed it, this is the simplest form: a thing that is comparable to something else in significant respects . I then explained why a tire is not particularly analogous to a socket. Since you're having difficulty with this concept, I think we should just agree to disagree and end this exercise right here.

Personally, my cars have never complained or written me snarky facebook posts late at night about how they don't want to be touched by HF tools. Anyone else see the irony in the concept of a novice buying really expensive tools to do trivial tasks on an almost fully depreciated ~15 year old car? Just sayin' -td

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Guy buys HF tools, yet spends money on a IMS bearing and calls it a wear item

I don't buy snap on and my tool still works very well thank you. I fail to see the relationship.

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You are a tool snob...... 90% of my impact sockets are Pittsburgh. Regular sockets are craftsman, my long wrenches are Pittsburgh. My ratcheting wrenches are between EZ-red and GearWrench. My picks are snap-on, screwdrivers are a mixed bag, and punches are Astro and Tekton. My specialty sockets are either MBenz or Snap-on variants. Internal and external torx are pittsburgh. Electric and air tools are Snap on and Ingersoll Rand. Electrical testing is MBenz master kit and Lisle. The days of snap-on being the best in tools are long over. In addition, they are grossly overpriced, and guess what, they still break. At least with HF tools, the few occasions they have broken, I don't have to wait a week to get a replacement. Respectfuly Dealer Technician.

The poor OP...

FYI - slight amendment to my position and earlier post. As I finished up my front brakes I took note of what HF tools I had used. I have a set of 3/8" drive hex and torx bits that have held up very nicely and work great. I also used a 4lb sledge, set of punches (the subsequently flattened on the ends), jack stands, and a few socket extensions. I also have a 32mm impact socket that I purchased specifically for the timing chain tensioners - it is 6 point, and very solid. But, I also have a pile of HF tools that are essentially garbage: wire strippers/crimper, set of picks, snap ring pliers. With Craftsman - there essentially are essentially no 'duds' - every tool from that brand has held up beyond reason and work as expected. That said, I still have had enough experiences where a cheap or inferior tool has lead to headache, additional trips to the store, the need to buy replacements parts/bolts/etc. When I come across something that absolutely needs to be done right I go with Craftsman.

for HF i always look at their reviews online, some stuff is junk but their wrenches / sockets i have never had any issues with but i use the canadian mastercraft ones most of the time

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I second this. Snap-on's ratchets are 80 tooth. This means you can get the bolt turning the smallest amount of space. I'm not sure how many teeth Harbor Frieghts have but it's not close.

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http://m.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-flex-head-ratchet-62321.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided 72 teeth for 17 bucks

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Quick on the draw! 10% may not seem like much but it is. Using them side by side, the difference is easy to see and feel.

Love my snapon ratchets, long pattern wrenches, sockets, and breaker bars. Light, strong, streamlined and they bite so well. Gets into tight spaces easily. Gives you confidence (to apply force and not stripping the fasteners) and great feel feedback. Great alternatives: HF Pittsburg Pro series, any tool under that brand. Their snapon knockoff ratchets are very nice for the money. US made craftsman. Sadly the newer craftsman tools are made in China. Taiwan tools are pretty good quality now, second to US. E.g., Tekton, gearwrench. All the special tools I used to rebuild my engines are made in Taiwan (EWK). In general I prefer US made tools then Taiwan os my second choice.

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GT3>IMS bearing. Mezger for the win! -td

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I've used both. Going from a 36 tooth to a 72 or above is a huge upgrade. 72 to 80 is "eh cool" but if you ask me, it isn't revolutionary. they are up to 100 teeth now btw.

When are we going to start talking about the Tool Box you require to keep your tools in? I think buddy (it is not me) might also live in that thing

i keep mine in this

I wonder if a $3000 mountain bike is better than a $72 huffy from Kmart....after all they are just bike right?

m3 reminds me of the poser stereotype that exists everywhere. In the office he is dressing in $3,000 suit as "admin" when everyone else wears jeans. He shows up to tennis/basketball/football/baseball games decked in the best and most expensive gear...while being absolutely horrible at the sport in question. He buys the most expensive chair on the market...so he could read one book he bough this year. He has the $1,500 professional gas powered power-washer for 1 car garage in a condo. He has the full set of Northface gear, so he can outside in Phoenix when it is freezing 50 degrees. You can go on and on....

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Yea.......he's that guy.

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He probably owes more on that toolbox than he does on his house!

This is my favorite thread ever.

Ya, there's no new information here. And after awhile, insulting people because they have a different viewpoint gets a little juvenile.

well it IS a TOOL thread

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well, they will both get you to the beer store, the huffy even has a basket for your beers. Is a Sakai (~$800) chefs knife better than a Ginsu($29.95), for sure but you can still prep a meal with a Ginsu. I'm not saying there isn't an advantage to a higher quality product but at what point is it worth the extra $$

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this is a forum that many think their car is built for and by the gods

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1. He has all commercial grade stainless steel appliances in his kitchen, but eats out for every meal. 2. Has a man cave that looks like a hunters dream with all wood panel walls covered with animal heads but has never shot a gun. The fire place is 15 feet tall with rock veneer, but only burns gas logs. 3. He has a trophy case full of awards he never earned, but custom ordered from China. 4. Likes to go to the gym decked out in neon Under Armor outfits and pays two spotters to help him pretend to lift over 300 lbs on the bench press in front of the girls. After lifting, he sits up on the bench and gives his best Ric Flair impression ending with a big "WoooooOOOOOOoooo!!!!" 5. Drives around in a salvage titled base Carrera that was rebuilt to look like a Red Turbo S with aftermarket parts. His tag says "TURBRO" on the back. 6. Likes to wear several layers of 8 karat gold chains and a fancy Folex watch he found at the local flea market. 7. He sold all of his platinum from his UFO and purchased a Ferrari 308 which he totaled on the first drive. He likes to collect styrofoam in his basement because it's very valuable on his planet. You shouldn't encourage me Kalash! hahaha!!!

i guess you didn't get alimony /support or custody

I like cake!

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me to

So... working on installing my light savers this evening and this happened. Immediately reminded me of this thread, so now I'm bringing it back from the dead. Luckily I was at the tail end of the project, otherwise I'd be SOL until the stores open tomorrow. Great example of a tool being used for its intended purpose simply failing for no good reason.

The bit is hollow (security torx)?

I suspect 90% of non-pro mechanics who "need" SnapOn tools are also the same gentlemen who are convinced they "need" Magnum-size Trojans... The world NEEDS these people. Otherwise, the driving glove and Drakkar Noir markets would shrivel and die.

Torx and Allen bits are something I highly recommend Snap-On for. If you've never needed to dig a bolt with a stripped head out of the bottom of a hole next to high voltage components, you're lucky. $40 for a full set of bits is a lot cheaper than a couple hours of labor to take apart the rest of the assembly to get access to that one bit you needed to remove. Ratchets, wrenches, etc.? Craftsman or similar is probably fine. Personally I use Tekton ratchets and impact sockets, a Husky torque wrench, and no-name everything else.

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I noticed that too. Wasn't sure if they're all like that or not. As far as I know this was just a standard 3/8 torx set from HarborFreight.

I would only use the Security Torx bit if actually needed on the fastner. The hole in the middle would make the bit more prone to a failure, like you had. Were you using a power tool? I have snapped off a few 1/4" Bit Heads when using a power driver.

I broke 2 craftsman, 1 huskey and 1 koballt hex key sockets trying to replace my wheel studs. The Pittsburgh one didn't break. Go figure all were solid

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This is some derivative of Taleb's IYI maybe, the Enthusiast Yet *******?

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Nope, just a 3/8" drive ratchet - and I wasn't torquing it overly tight because I didn't want to strip the threads. I hadn't even noticed those were security torx bits - I just grabbed the only set I saw off the shelf. EDIT: Just stopped at Harbor Freight - it was the first time I have ever done an tool exchange. Quick and easy, no hassle no fuss. Just swapped them out. It would have been even quicker if the guy in line in front of me would have shut up and just finished checking out rather than chatting it up with the cashier for 15 minutes as a line formed.

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All these fasteners on an old car need pre-treatment (WD-40...)

Pre-treatment, yes, but not with wd-40. Kroil, PB-blaster, liquid wrench, are what's required. WD-40 is good for displacing water, but not for fastener removal.

In some of my old Brit motorcycle redos, in years long gone by I used a home made mix of transmission fuild and acetone, as a penetrating fluid. I agree WD-40 is a good protector, but there are better penatrants, IMHO. However, in those days I was also using a home made mix of what I was smoking. I gave up both old Brit bikes and smoking some 25+ years ago.