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YOUR RESEARCHIms failed, now searching for motor
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bearing
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Reported cause
When you get the engine out, pull the IMS bearing flange to make sure it was the bearing that let go and not something else.
Leading evidence: 'bearing' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'bearing' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace fuel rails, there may be a easier solution' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace fuel rails, there may be a easier solution
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I simply swapped fuel rails, there may be a easier solution to this, but it was not a very big job.
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So there were lines that ran off the fuel rails, to the AC compressor on the new motor that I did not have on the old.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Can I just change the throttle body to the one from old engine, then install?
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Suggestion
You do have a risk of not being able to hear the car run (if it is not local).
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Hi, I have a 99 ,cab ,6 speed and my ims failed. I found a good warranteed lower miled 3.4 from an 01 c4 tiptronic.
will this work? Can I just change the throttle body to the one from old engine, then install?
Hey Forrest,
Sorry to hear about the engine. I'll let the true 996 mechanics chime in on the specifics, but shouldn't be any problem with making this 3.4L transplant minus the tip tranny.
Tell us your story. What happened?
The tip tranny is the only thing I'm leary about.
I've only owned the car since January, but I'm not new to porsche. I own a 944 also and have owned others.
I found this car as a bank repossession at a auction. Couldn't pass on the $$ I gave on it. It isn't a perfect car, but it's well optioned (lsd,full leather, hardtop) so a couple months of play and the loss of a motor, I'm not sweating it
I should be able to put a motor in and still be sitting less than the cars value or right at it.
running fine then I heard engine bay noises then dead. Tried to start. It sputtered to life and started rattling and banging. Figured that's what it was, pulled the filter and full of metal.
not worried about it too much, just one of those things
No need for remorse guys, things happen. Now I just have to deal with it haha
This motor I'm looking at is 6500. I've found them 6k to 8k used and you can get one new from vertex for 10
I blew my motor in my 99 in October (money-shifted on the track). After buying a donor car in November, I just got it back on the road last week. The donor was a 2000 C4. Here are the differences I had to handle. I plan of doing a full write-up with pictures later, but will give you a brief description now.
1. Keep your throttle body from the 99. You will need it.
2. Keep your engine wiring harness from your 99. While I think you could just splice the Throttle body connection, I think it is cleaner, and will lead to less issues to just swap the entire harness. That's what I did, and it was much easier than I thought it was going to be. Just go one connection at a time.
3. The C4 has a fuel cooler connected to the AC compressor. So there were lines that ran off the fuel rails, to the AC compressor on the new motor that I did not have on the old. I didn't want to swap AC Compressors since I knew the one I my car was brand new (and did not want to pay to have the system drained). I simply swapped fuel rails, there may be a easier solution to this, but it was not a very big job.
4. The AOS line that goes from the front plenum to the AOS has an extra vacuum line on the newer car. I realized this too late to just switch that hard line. Instead, I plugged it. With that extra line, the fit is a little tight, to the point that I had to install it to the plenum first, and then install the plenum. Otherwise there is not enough clearance.
5. There is one more vacuum connection right below that. I forget what it is for, but I plugged that one too. I can post a pic later.
When hooking up the throttle cable, make sure the little black plastic deal (technical name) that mounts to the TB is pointed down. It will install both ways, and if you install it the wrong way, when you start the car, it will be idling at 4000 RPM. Ask me how I know.
Also, pay attention to how the cable routes down to the connection down by the trans. The throttle cable actually has to go through the coil for the slave cylinder.
If you run into any questions, feel free to reach out. It's all still pretty fresh. I also have a ton of parts left over from the blown motor, so if you need anything, let me know.
When you get the engine out, pull the IMS bearing flange to make sure it was the bearing that let go and not something else. As a mater of fact, I would do this first before buying the other engine (you can fix a lot for $6K). Lots of things can let go besides the bearing. If it's an original engine with a double row bearing then the chances are greater that something else went. On my '99, the variocam tensioner pads went that jammed into the timing sprocket and made the timing jump. This cause 6 bent exhaust valves so the owner deiced to trade it in on a new Boxter......I ended up buying it as a non runner.
No problem. This forum has helped me so much, I try to give back as much as possible. One thing you may want to consider if you have not purchased a motor yet is to get a complete donor car from COPART. That is what I ended up doing. If you buy right, you'll be able to make money on the deal by parting out what is left after you take out the motor. The car I ended up with had a roll bar and the GT3 Euro Seats. I made back 45% of the purchase price of the car just selling those things.
You do have a risk of not being able to hear the car run (if it is not local). But you can pull a car fax to see if service was happening, and the fact that it hit something means it was running at the time. I "think" I may have lucked out a bit, since the motor in the donor I got ended up being a Porsche replacement motor with the upgraded 997 bearing, so it actually has less miles than I originally thought. I've only driven in 85 miles since I got it back together, so I am not celebrating yet.
Of course it takes time to do it, I already had a side business of parting out M3s, so this was just the natural course I took.
I have not started selling things off the blown motor yet, but I am guessing there is at least $1500-$2000 worth of stuff that should sell.
Not yet sure that I got lucky. Won't know until after the first event in three weeks. But I have purchased 5 other cars (all for the purpose of parting out), and all of them were better than what I thought they would be. Granted, they were sub 3K e36 M3s, so it is not apples to apples. I would also never purchase a Copart with the intention of driving it. That is a can of worms not worth digging into, and honestly, there is almost always more money to be made from parting a car, than from buying a salvage car, fixing it, and trying to flip it, providing you are buying the right cars.
That Vertex price will require core too.
+996 on what let go, mine is Thrust bearing caught before death of motor (just) expensive to fix, but I don't want to risk another "second hand engine" with same/worse hidden issues.
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