Street/Track alignment with stock setup?

I would like to get an alignment soon in my 987.2 Cayman (base) after this years winter pothole festivities. What adjustments can be made with the stock setup? Any recommended setups for aggressive street/occassional track days?

Camber -1.6 F and -2.1 r with wheel spacers of 9mm f and 17 mm r on OEM wheels. The idea is to widen track of each axle. These offsets spacers will be in the ball park for the tires being flush with the fender lips. Toe in f is 0 while toe in in the rear is -12/-14 minutes. With these setting you should not wear out the inside shoulders any faster than the outside shoulders if you are tracking your car. The wear will actually look different as well as the outside will be scrubbed while the inside will be normal wear from the additional camber weight being placed on the inside shoulders, especially in the rear with toe in.

I am not sure how you can get more than -0.8* in front without suspension changes. I tried this for one year and went through $4k in tire expense due to shredded outer shoulders on track days. I was able to destroy a set of front tires in one weekend. Ouch! I added GT3 arms and lowering springs to my 987.2 , adjusted camber to -2.5* in front and -2.0* in the rear. Now I use all of the contact patch at the track and get very even tire wear all around. This is my recommendation for any dual purpose street track car. Better performance and will save $$ in the long run with gentle tire wear.

hmmm, so without any suspension chances aside from perhaps lower springs, what are the stock alignment restraints?

Well, Cantrell Motor Sports was able to give me -1.6f and -2.1r, granted this was with reduced ride height due to Ohlins coilovers. If you want this max negative f OEM camber, you may want to have your installer slot the top three shock mounting holes a little as one side may be a little different than the other by -.01 or -.02 degrees. Mine were -1.6 on the drivers side and -1.4 on the passenger side. With the slot on the passenger side, it was -1.6 as well. About 9 months later my next modification was Tarett Cup LCA's f&r to give me more camber to -2.7 f -2.5r and toe out 5 minutes in front and -12 minutes toe in in the rear due to solid thrust pucks in the Cup LCA's. These solid thrust pucks prevent any movement forward or aft, they also have castor and wheelbase adjustability. The Cup LCA's really improve turn in and mid corner throttle response by not allowing any unwanted movement or mushyness of rubber bushings either in the thrust puck or in the monoball ends. The toe out of 5 minutes in front gives a immediate response on turn in to the 255/35/18 RE71R's F tires . While the rear's 275/35/18's track very well on their Cup LCA's preventing threashold braking wobble and adds accurate control to mid corner throttle rotation.

Generally 0.8* in front. Not enough to effectively use all of your front tires for track work. They will shred the outer shoulders very quickly. $$$ Cliff's notes from every high performance Porsche setup shop everywhere: " If you want a no compromise solution to get the most from your front tires , add GT3 Arms or equivalent. Everything else is a bandaid solution in one way or another."

Haha, fair enough. Do you happen to know of the stock alignment settings then? Don't really want to have to go to a dealership to have the alignment done and would prefer to know the settings rather than just go off of what the mechanics at an independent shop tell me.

"stock" is a pretty wide range from positive to negative camber. I would find an alignment shop recommended by your local PCA and ask for a performance alignment with max negative camber in front. It will only cost about $120 or so and will greatly improve the feel of the car under hard cornering. The outer shoulders are doomed until you get -2.0* or more in front.

Finally got some Tarrett Gt3 (rubber spec) arms for the front so I am reviving this thread. I'll be installing the gt3 arms (obviously) with oem forward arms as well. Rear will still be completely stock. My current specs are: Front camber: -0.2 degrees total toe: 0.11 degrees Rear camber: -1.5 degrees Total toe: 0.22 degrees I am going to call the shop and see if they are able to provide shims otherwise, what size shims should I buy to be safe? Assuming 10mm is about equal to 1 degree of negative camber?

I would ask the front camber be increased to about -2.4 and the rear to about -2.0 if possible. In the front, you will be using about 10 mm of shims and -1.4 from the oem camber adjuster. The rear will be achieved by the oem adjuster. You may or may not need an rear adjustable toe bar to get the right toe in. If you are at OEM ride height, most likely no rear adjustable toe bar is needed. I had my shop give me 8.4 caster with the Tarett adjustable Thrust arm center puck. The toe out in front was very minimal (.02 each side) but needed as it speeds up turn in. "In addition to having the same geometry as the GT3 arms, rubber thrust arm bushings and inner ends are used to qualify this kit as a class legal substitute for the 996 GT3 arms. Like the GT3 arms, the thrust arm bushing has two mounting holes for caster reduction on high camber applications." Quote from Tarett.

Appreciate the input. Car is currently (and will continue to be for a bit) at stock height. So Front: Camber: -2.4 (I will say I asked the shop to max this out so I am curious if the max they got was -0.2) toe-out: 0.2 each side (0.4 total) Caster: Ultimately whatever the mounting holes can get me? Rear: Camber: -2 Toe: ????

Caster, most likely around 7.6 derived from the two holes in the center thrust bushing, I would call to make sure they gave you toe out in FRONT. You do need toe in in the rear though its more than 8 minutes. Rear toe to max that the OEM bar will give you. negative 8 minutes. You need the rear wheels pointed in to some amount due to the rear wheels may change to positive through the arch from droop to bump (bump steer). This negative will also save your rear end from oscillation during threshold braking.

Awesome long lived thread, just a bit of downtime. I sure appreciate (appreciate == leverage) the great asks and answers.