Spin on filter & oil?

Taking the 996 in for its first oil change since I bought it. I'm looking at going the spin on filter adapter route. Also looking at the DT40 oil. Is this move a no brainer or should I be considering something else? Thanks. Also, If I do change to the spin on what filter do you need? will my mechanic always have to order a special filter or is it a standard/common size/style?

No brainer. The filters you can use are listed on the LN engineering site. They are available at Napa stores and online.

I use the Mobil1 M1-107. Easy to find, great filter. The NAPA Gold is good too. DT40 or Liqui Moly High Tech 5W-40. Both excellent.

I had one independent quote $730 to do the spin on filter adapter, filter, mag drain plug and DT40 oil. How ridiculous is that? They wanted $250 for an oil/filter change? Can someone confirm how much oil the 996 takes?

Between 9-10 Qts. in my '99

996 takes 9.3 quarts of oil (per latest tech bulletin). At $12/quart for the DT40 (that is the price at Summit by me) you get $110 for oil + another 10 for a filter. The spin on adapter is $150. It takes 30 minutes to change the oil (only about 5 minutes of work, but you have to let the car sit flat and drain for 20 minutes (per Porsche).

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Well that ain't bad at all if it includes a hot barista. KK should be chiming in anytime on the DT40 in 3...2...1...

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Hey John - the oil change price may not be too far off...you need around 10 qts of DT40 (it's expensive oil) the oil filter is cheap, but the spin on adapter will increase the oil change cost if it's bundled in. They need to pay for their labor and make some margin on the consumables - I'd probably price it around $250. There are good oil options out there, for less money than DT40 where you can save some scratch - and an oil change is trivial to DIY if budget is a major concern.

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I know they need to make a margin. They wanted $250 for just the adapter and drain plug. That's a big mark-up. I just ordered all of the parts online. It will be a DIY oil change. I'm not too concerned with budget or trying to do this cheap, I just want a fair and honest indi.

C'mon....$730?? http://lnengineering.com/oil-change-...figurable.html

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I know... I just ordered that about 5 minutes ago with the DT40. $350 shipped to my door.

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Good call. Something like this doesn't need a mark up. I think some indies are stupid. Instead of giving a good price on oil change so they can land the bigger jobs and make more money, they hike up the oil change and lose the customer forever. Stupid!

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Good call - makes perfect sense. PM me the shop that gave you the $250 quote...I'll steer clear of them in the future! Hope you're enjoying the new ride!

I just did the change last night, Spin-on Filter, NAPBA Gold Fiilter, Magnetic Drain Plug and DT40 oil. I bought the DT40 from Summit Racing, I think it was $131 delivered for 12 quarts. It took right at 9.5 quarts.

Related question: I have the spin on adapter sitting in a box in my shop for install this weekend. Any tricks or issues with installing it?

Surprised of the price difference between indies. European in Raleigh wants $385 for a Tiptronic service another indie 15 minutes closer quoted $500.

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Not really, I cleaned the threads on the car really good and put some blue lock-tite on the adapter threads, made sure both o-rings were lubed with new oil spun it on by hand. You will need a 26mm deep well socket to install the adapter torque to 18 ft pounds. I filled the filter with oil, let it settle and repeated the process until filled. Screwed it on until the filter seal made solid contact with the housing and turned it another full turn. No leaks.

Perfect. Thank you sir!

Even though JR helped developed and still endorses DT40 for the M96, some refuse to believe how good it really is. At one time it was his own private stock or brew that only he could get. Although he recommends a flush before swapping to DT40, even if you don't follow this advice you will notice that the engine has less VT and chain noise, better oil pressure, and just plain runs better and smoother. The stuff is amazing and probably the single best low cost thing a new owner should do to ensure the longevity of their M96. After using it for almost 2 years and many, many oil changes, the inside of my engine still looked spotless. Don't believe my opinion just search and you will find real research that proves it. JR used to have the full details and story behind the oil posted somewhere but I think its removed now since he's no longer affiliated with it.

To me its just common sense to use the stuff JR recommends, he has spent countless hours or days testing and its what he thinks is the best, why not go with it. Maybe he is wrong and it isn't the best but most likely its damn good and it may even be the best for our engines. He also recommends the spin on filter and the magnetic drain plug and has stated his reasons. I guess some could argue with him but once again he is a fanatic about all this, I am not, I will use his opinion to my advantage, just seems like a good idea to me. I really like my 996 and in my mind I've done all I can to keep it good. If JR makes money somehow from me following his advice I'm happy for him. Every time I spend some money someone makes a profit why should he be different.

Forgive my ignorance, but what is this mystery oil you speak of? No sarcasm meant.

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Joe Gibbs DT40

I recently bought & installed the oil change "kit" (spin-on adapter & magnetic drain plug) during an LN 10% off sale. The kit came with a Napa Gold filter but I believe the spin-on adapter sans magnetic plug also comes with a filter? Although the adapter calls for 26mm socket, I cheated and used a 27mm (which I already had) lined with some masking tape. Worked out fine - easy install. Bought 3 x 6 pack = 18 quarts (enough for 2 oil changes) of Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w40 from Amazon for approx $148 delivered.

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Yep, do NOT put 10 quarts in! 10 were put in at my last oil change. It was fine for freeway driving, but smoked like that "burnout" pic Schnelly posted in the other thread when I took it to an autocross two weeks ago. Drained a half quart out, so hopefully should be fine at the autocross on July 11.

Here's a few pictures from my install: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...il-filter.html If my locktite to seal the pan to the engine comes in before the weekend, I'll be doing the next oil change and putting the FVD oil pan in!

Pics helped immensely. Thanks Paul! Applying the sealant to the new pan will be the most difficult and annoying part of the FVD install.

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Sweet Baby Jesus. I am responding to an oil thread and I am sober. OK. Show one piece of research. Really. Anything will do. But it is all a bunch of theory and opinion. If your engine is so touchy you have to run one special brand of oil, then there is a problem with the engine. Go to any oil site and post what you did and you will be laughed out of the site.

Just picked up the 996 today from a new Indi in Greensboro. My fault I didn't ask how much for an oil change. I have always paid about $130.00 for a change before moving here. About had a heart attack when I picked up the car. $203.38 for oil and $135.00 for labor. $15.12 for shop supplies and 17.00 for hazerdus material charges. Total was 397.50 for an oil change !!!! I will not be going back or recommending him to friends. He does just Porsches. Not all of us are Doctors.

Where have you been? Your still a non-believer after all the prior threads where JR explains in great detail his R&D about this oil? Doubt anyone would laugh JR's facts out of anyone's technical forum. There hasn't been a single case of lubrication related engine failure where this oil or the racing blend of it was used exclusively.

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You paid, well actually "got hosed" for "Porsche" prices. Material + tax is less than $100 even up here in Canada.

Does Jake actually enjoy your maniacal stalking, or does he have a restraining order out against you?

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Holy crap - I am going into the rabbit hole. Point 1 - How much do you know about statistical analysis? Because he said so is not proof. Or I have done it a bunch and never had any problems with it is not proof. Point 2 - And this relates to your there has never been an engine failure where the engine oil was used exclusively - Do you know what a randomized controlled trial is? In this case it would be where you take the same exact engines and use two different oils. Do the same things to multiple engines over a long period of time and thousands and thousands of hours and them compare the results. So in order for you to prove this you need data. Really.

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It's also more viscous than the factory fill Mobil1. Higher oil pressure when you add a more viscous oil? Orly? You advising anyone about how to ensure "longevity" for an M96 is one of the most laughable things I have seen on the Internet. You didn't "ensure the longevity" of your car - you merely replaced most of its mechanical parts and stored it for the next owner. Of course your engine was spotless. You cleaned it obsessively and were terrified to drive it. You spent more time performing preventive maintenance on your car than you spent driving your car. I will pay you $20 if you can prove this is not true - that you actually spent more time behind the wheel of your 996 than you did disassembling and reassembling a car that did not have anything wrong with it. How much did you spend on PM per mile driven in that car? $10? More? John Ireland may be kind of a dork for burning money by churning through 911's, but at least he drives his. I have a lot of respect for many folks on RL, even the contentious ones. But you...

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I guess you really don't understand the real issue here, it's called conflict of interest, in case someone needs to point it out to you.

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News flash - Jack Raby is not God. He doesn't give your IMSB a special reach around. I do appreciate his opinion, guidance, and experience, but he hasn't seen every engine with every failure. I'll stick to my Mobil 1 regimen, which has apparently served the car well to date.

Who's Jack??? Never heard of him. Do what you want with your car and engine.

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I installed the LN deep sump kit last year. IMO, the most annoying part was cleaning the old sealer off the bottom of the block before installing the new spacer and pan. But yeah, applying the new sealant was also a pain. FWIW, with the 1/2" deep sump spacer my car took about 8.75 liters on the last oil change. I used Motul 8100, hence the metric measurement. What I usually do is to get two five-liter jugs, pour 1-1/2 liters out of one of them, put the remaining 8.5 liters in the car, let it settle overnight, then top off as needed. I also have the LN spin-on adapter ... no idea how much or little that affects oil capacity.

"I'll stick to my Mobil 1 regimen" For those who do not follow the obscure technicalities of this subject, a few Cliff Notes .Please do your own research: Mobil 1 specs have changed significantly since it was first specified by Porsche for the M96. There is much discussion and confirmation of this issue on the Bitog site. The tribologically informed agree that none of the Mobil 1 additive pack changes help the M96. One of the obscure peculiarities of the M96 is a propensity for foaming. That is why most otherwise highly rated oils are unsuitable for the M96. Then there are the stringent the shear and thermal stability requirements of the M96. All this has been discussed by really smart people(not me) with the best interests of M96 engines at heart. These discussions are easy to find in Search. And none recommend Mobil 1 on technical grounds. Now back to the emotional stuff.

For what it's worth my owners manual says I can use conventional oil or synthetic. These topics always leave me wondering 1-why a car company would build a crappy product and then the company not do any research - that lay people can easily do on line - then recommend a product that should not be used in their product and will for sure destroy it 2-why anyone who believes #1 is A-sane B-even on this forum or owns one of their products.

^^ Expect it to come loose when you unwind the spin-on filter...other than that, no complaints after a year...glad I have it. I went with Motul...I'll stay with Motul. I'm not sure it really matters, just go with a good oil and change it regularly. .02

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........young grasshopper

I still don't understand why some seem to just hate doing anything Jake Raby recommends and why some seem to think Porsche knows more than anybody about everything. Both Jake and Porsche are probably wrong about some things, I know Porsche was wrong about the damn IMSB design, I don't know what Raby is wrong about but there must be something. In any case Raby seems to be one of the most knowledgable persons about these motors there is so why not go with what he recommends. What can it hurt? Does anyone think the things he recommends will be bad for the motor?

While I don't use M1 myself, Porsche still slaps an M1 sticker on each new car they sell. For whatever reason, they seem to believe that it's the right oil for the car. It's hard to fault someone for following the directions of the manufacturer... I switched to DT40 after my source for dirt-cheap TOTAL Quartz Energy 9000 dried up - but faulting anyone for using M1 is kind of lame. Yes, Jake seems VERY knowledgeable about the M96. One could also suppose that Porsche knows _something_ about the cars they build, sell, and service...

My Land Rover has a sticker on the fuel fill door that says to use premium BP fuel only. I'm a rebel and have had no problems with Wal Mart gas. The Mobil gods have not cursed me yet since I have switched to DT40.

For me, Porsche lost all credibility with the IMSB design. What about the ridiculously long oil change intervals Porsche recommended? And I'm skeptical enough to believe that there is more to the Porsche recommendation to use Mobil1 than it is technically the best; i.e. which oil vendor is paying the most to have their name plastered on the car. I've seen enough credible independent sources say to stay away from both Mobil1 and the high oil change intervals. So I do. To those that say they've done alright by Mobil1: how do you know? You won't know until something really bad happens.

I don't think Porsche would put a Mobile 1 sticker on their new cars if it would hurt them no matter how much Mobile 1 paid. That still doesn't doesn't mean there isn't a better working oil that didn't pay **** to get their name on the car. I like to hear other suggestions from guys and the reasons they think that brand X is better and make up my own mind.

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Because they are vendor haters... They think that I monetarily benefit from the sales of such products. Thats why I do't sell anything other than a full engine...... The DT40 oil was never intended to be used outside my engines. If the economy hadn't crashed no one would have ever learned I was a Gibbs developer, and DT40 still would be "JD Raby's Snake Oil" that couldn't be bought. I've tightened my circle up again, it got too loose for a while.

I run a 996 race car and go through a lot of Driven XP9. Street Side Auto has very favorable prices and free shipping on the Driven products.

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Im no vendor hater, and realize how my post came across after a re-read (especially since I got your name wrong - sorry about that). I read your posts with great care when I set out on my search and am appreciative of all the knowledge you share here. I also have the LN bearing in my car. My only point, which again was poorly stated, is there are so many variables that affect cars. My non-engineering thinking is that oil is only one variable.

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They do? I don't see that on their website.

I replaced Mobil 1 in my 02 996 with DT40 and it does seem to run quieter. I just finished a 600 miles of driving on a road trip. In my 98 Boxster I went from Mobil 1 to Royal Purple 10w40 and it runs super quiet with no issue. My Boxster was kind of noisy before the switch. I spent hours reading post about oil and the M96 engine and it seems I couldn't find anyone who has done more extensive work and R&D on the M96 than Jake Raby. I really don't think he is going to say something for me to try that would devastate my engine so he can sell me one. I can see why he may get upset when people challenge him when they have not put the time in on the engine. I do appreciate him posting but he is not forcing his products on us so it really comes down to, it is your car do what you like. I don't personally know Jake and I am not here saying he is a God, I see him as a person who is passionate about Porsche and his work and their is nothing wrong with taking pride in your work. I think Porsche didn't either do enough R&D on the engine to see if the IMSB would fail or they did and decided to put it out anyway as at that time I think Porsche was just trying to keep Porsche from going under. I think replacing a few engines was far cheaper than redesigning and new engine. Hey, when it is life or death you do what you have to to survive. Porsche was finally in position financially to redesign a new engine in 2009 to eliminate the issue.

I don't have any "products" outside of complete engines. If you call my facility and ask to buy anything other than a complete engine, you'll be told that we have nothing to offer. I learned long ago about selling products, and all of my developments are offered to the industry through other outlets. When I finish a development I let it go completely, without royalties or profit share later, then I move on to the next project. This is the only way I can operate without conflicts.

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125k on original IMS and mobil1 is how I know. There are a few over 200k on mobil1. Last I heard, this is still a combustion engine and man has survived for years with even the Dino stuff. I don't suppose you exclusively drink bottled water too?

"I don't suppose you exclusively drink bottled water too? " Along with the Koolaide I'm sure !!! Where does the bottled water come from? Wells... Sorry about the hijack

Anyone know a shop near Newport Beach CA that stocks & installs DT40?