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YOUR RESEARCHReplaced front passenger side ABS wiring Harness - soldered?
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Replace wiring myself
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had the dreaded ABS/PSM light on for months, and I finally replaced the wiring myself, after first trying to change the ABS sensor.
Replaced front passenger side ABS wiring Harness - soldered?
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Leading evidence: 'Replace wiring myself' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill heatshrink' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I've used similar in the past ( Wurth ) on different connections than this ..
Replaced front passenger side ABS wiring Harness - soldered?
Use sleeves
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have used the sleeves that were contained in the harness kit, which are just plastic ones that you put over the soldered connectors.
Replaced front passenger side ABS wiring Harness - soldered?
Fill heatshrink
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Suggestion
Ideally you should use a crimp splice with a glue filled heatshrink.
Replaced front passenger side ABS wiring Harness - soldered?
Recommend audio
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Suggestion · Original poster
Am going to order a set of these solder sleeves; are they recommended for audio use as well?
Replaced front passenger side ABS wiring Harness - soldered?
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I had the dreaded ABS/PSM light on for months, and I finally replaced the wiring myself, after first trying to change the ABS sensor.
I cut the harness off the car, from a position near the battery. I soldered the new harness in place, but i was wondering if it would be better to use a connector to do so? Anyone used a connector to do so?
I was thinking something like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOOHUI-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive-Connectors/dp/B07FK4VJNB
For something like this i would prefer a soldered connection but you could use the connections ..
I've used similar in the past ( Wurth ) on different connections than this .. ..
More time consuming than a solder connection and crimping the connections to the wire can be a bit of a challenge , you'll need the correct tool but it can certainly be done .
Main reason though would be if it needed unplugging for a reason in the future .. i can't really see the need for it in these circumstances .
Solder joint and you use heat shrink .. plus taping it up .. shouldn't be water ingress at that point .
But yes , you could use these .
Well i guess you are right that it would be better to leave it alone. I have used the heat shrink and then used a strong cloth tape on top of it, so i guess i should be good.
I was thinking that maybe the connection would be better for waterproofing and also not putting strain on the soldered connection.
Solder is generally a no no in automotive wiring as the vibration can cause work hardening and cracking of the joint. Ideally you should use a crimp splice with a glue filled heatshrink. For a crimp to be reliable you need the right crimp tool though, when done right the strands actually cold weld in the crimp (also why you don't twist the wire before you crimp it.
Having said all that, for your use I'd recommend a solder splice like this:
https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/solder-sleeves/8726283/
Although they are solder, they are glue filled and the sleeve provides support to mitigate the vibration failure mode. I've used them a number of times and they work well. The solder is melted by the heat gun as you shrink the sleeve.
I know the use of solder is frowned upon. But after 30 yrs of making looms and installing ICE and mending other peoples messes I have it in my books as an old wives tail.
I have not to my knowledge had a solder joint ever fail, and see dozens of crimp connectors that have every year. I say solder, use double wall heat shrink (with the heat activated glue inside) and then tesa tape it up (if inside the car), or Nito (if external). I don't advocate solder and tape only, the heat shrink supports the joint, and i double did mine for years till someone made it a product - bless them
Recently pulled apart the wiring harness of a racing boat i did 39 yrs ago as part of a refit and it was still all perfect
I tend to agree with you Clarkie. When done with the wrong tools crimps can be extremely unreliable.
That's why in this instance I recommended the solder sleeves as they contain all the elements to get the most reliable joint with DIY tools. The correct crimp tool for each connector type can cost hundreds!
I have used the sleeves that were contained in the harness kit, which are just plastic ones that you put over the soldered connectors.
I had no idea of such a product (solder sleeves) existed! It looks like the best way to do it, at least for me, who I always question my solder skills!
Am going to order a set of these solder sleeves; are they recommended for audio use as well?
I don't see why not. Just be aware that they are rigid for their entire length, so aren't good in areas where you need wires to flex, for example where wires need to be squashed behind a head unit.
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