997 GT3 pops and bangs - Page 2 - 911/Carrera GT - PistonHeads UK

Afternoon all I am lucky enough to own a 997.1 GT3 and I have put a Hayward & Scott bypass pipe on it and it sounds epic! The thing is, I want MORE pops and bangs and heavy Darth-Vader-with-Cattarh-in-throat like breathing, is it possible? Should I change the cats to get more noise? Cheers

V8KSN said: Afternoon all I am lucky enough to own a 997.1 GT3 and I have put a Hayward & Scott bypass pipe on it and it sounds epic! Without a video, we'll have to take your word for it. But my honest opinion is a completely standard Cayman R will still sound better. But don't quote me on that ;-)

Slippydiff said: Without a video, we'll have to take your word for it. But my honest opinion is a completely standard Cayman R will still sound better. But don't quote me on that ;-) Clearly mis-read the question as (obi wan kenobi voice) thats not the answer he's looking for... Move along... (fricken Cayman rubbish) To answer his question... You need one of these! http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/porsche_997_... or http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-997-gt3-carbon-fib... Google Fabspeed gt3 competition air intake and there is a stock / x-pipe / x-pipe + air take video... Oh and I to have the H&S rear delete pipe and they do sound epic - next on my list is one of these air intakes...

Slickhillsy said: Clearly mis-read the question as (obi wan kenobi voice) thats not the answer he's looking for... Move along... (fricken Cayman rubbish) To answer his question... You need one of these! http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/porsche_997_... or http://www.fabspeed.com/porsche-997-gt3-carbon-fib... Google Fabspeed gt3 competition air intake and there is a stock / x-pipe / x-pipe + air take video... Oh and I to have the H&S rear delete pipe and they do sound epic - next on my list is one of these air intakes... Whooosh ......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbncLQnezhc

Thanks for the replies guys, this is exactly the kind of sound I am looking for - I am SOLD! Before I get my wallet out, a quick couple of questions..... There is only one external air intake on the 997.1 and only one air filter. This is 'sealed' when the boot is closed so the air entering the filter (and the engine) is cold air and not ambient air from the engine. Picture of my engine.. The air box in the links is similar to the RS 4.0 and 3.8 air box in that there is a filter on both sides. The engine cover caters for these two filters by having two cut-outs on the rear engine cover as can be seen below…. SO, my question is, would I need to fit the RS engine cover if I wanted to fit this Y pipe air intake? That will be a problem and a non-starter for me as in order to do so, I would have to replace the lights and rear bumper too! Can anyone shed some light on this please?

I think taht may be a waste of money. That will just draw hot air in. Would you not think Porsche know how to get air into their engines already?

ttdan said: I think taht may be a waste of money. That will just draw hot air in. Would you not think Porsche know how to get air into their engines already? Drawing hot air in is what I am concerned about, that's why I asked the question about the intake holes in the engine cover above.

Sorry, i was trying answer your question. I have an RSS XPIPE and it pops and crackles on the overun just nicely. I think the only way you may better it is with less cat but that may bring other issues with CEL. I dont think any intake mod will make it pop any more at all.

It's explained in this video. There are similar vids on YouTube for different versions of these systems http://youtu.be/Tvq-mHvlIRs

Isysman said: It's explained in this video. There are similar vids on YouTube for different versions of these systems http://youtu.be/Tvq-mHvlIRs Yeah, I can see how that would work for a turbo as it has two inlets on the engine cover and those inlets direct air straight to the filters. My concern is that the 997.1 GT3 only has one inlet feed on the engine cover above one of the filters so the other filter will be sucking in warm ambient air from the engine.

Your right in your thinking, it's not made for your car. There is a K &N version with single cone filter on the market which claims to increase noise and power, but all the indies I've talked to say don't waste your money as they don't perform over the standard box.

Have you considered just changing the filter from stock to a K&N etc? It's not going to get you near the sound of an aftermarket induction kit, but it's inexpensive and will let you know if you're going in the right direction. No warm air issues either.

IknowJoseph said: Have you considered just changing the filter from stock to a K&N etc? It's not going to get you near the sound of an aftermarket induction kit, but it's inexpensive and will let you know if you're going in the right direction. No warm air issues either. I've done this - no real improvement in sound am afraid...

FWIW, the early 996 cup ran a cone type filter straight onto the throttle body (and a heat shield that loosely fitted around attached to the lid. Intake temps would get horrible. I can't imagine it would be a great addition on any car that wasn't just on open roads all the time. The later 996 Cup used a big carbon fiber heat shield that sealed against the lid. It was a decent improvement in terms of intake temps over the early cone setup. Not directly of use of course but the one thing these cars have going for them is that they run intake temp sensors. As a result it was possible to see how the temp varied as soon as you dropped speed. This alone would put me off sticking a cone filter thing back there with that little heat partition. The factory intake setup is pretty good IMHO in terms of performance and I haven't seen a difference with running a sports type filter instead of the oem one but YMMV. The 997.2 Cup with the 3.8 was delivered with the same air filter as the road car. For sound, you should look at getting rid of those heavy heat holding side silencers and run just a rear box. I am never sure why people dump the back box and keep these things on, I guess its to keep the sport button? Heres a startup on my car if you want a listen. Recorded out side on my phone so not the greatest video or sound quality but it is still fun. Those fabspeed recordings are done indoors (save for the last one) which makes quite a difference to the sound levels. https://vimeo.com/98766172 Edited by fioran0 on Friday 20th June 22:34

Interesting point sir. You might be right about the heat, also agree on the side pipes as they are a fair size...

Is the rear muffler delete done to keep the sports button active on the side cans. Can you pass track day noise levels with a rear delete and the rest in place?

fioran0 said: Is the rear muffler delete done to keep the sports button active on the side cans. Can you pass track day noise levels with a rear delete and the rest in place? Keeping the sports button active can be useful. Usually but you can also add decible devils or similar to bring the level back down a notch

fioran0 said: FWIW, the early 996 cup ran a cone type filter straight onto the throttle body (and a heat shield that loosely fitted around attached to the lid. Intake temps would get horrible. I can't imagine it would be a great addition on any car that wasn't just on open roads all the time. The later 996 Cup used a big carbon fiber heat shield that sealed against the lid. It was a decent improvement in terms of intake temps over the early cone setup. Not directly of use of course but the one thing these cars have going for them is that they run intake temp sensors. As a result it was possible to see how the temp varied as soon as you dropped speed. This alone would put me off sticking a cone filter thing back there with that little heat partition. The factory intake setup is pretty good IMHO in terms of performance and I haven't seen a difference with running a sports type filter instead of the oem one but YMMV. The 997.2 Cup with the 3.8 was delivered with the same air filter as the road car. For sound, you should look at getting rid of those heavy heat holding side silencers and run just a rear box. I am never sure why people dump the back box and keep these things on, I guess its to keep the sport button? Heres a startup on my car if you want a listen. Recorded out side on my phone so not the greatest video or sound quality but it is still fun. Those fabspeed recordings are done indoors (save for the last one) which makes quite a difference to the sound levels. https://vimeo.com/98766172 Edited by fioran0 on Friday 20th June 22:34 Thank you for this post It's the kind of real-life experience I was after and backs up my original thoughts of the filters just drawing in ambient hot air. I am going to stick with the original factory air filter and intake now but maybe look into replacing the side silencers. P.S Your car sounds like thunder!! Is that a straight through exhaust?

No probs. As I said, not directly relevant but something that could perhaps be worth looking in to on your car if you were going to go a cone filter route. The heat build up under town driving or with reduced speed may be worth it for any improvement in sound you could obtain but it may not be. That for individuals to decide. There is actually a pair of cats and a silencer on my car. Factory system. With straight pipes it is significantly louder again. I also have a 997.2 Cup exhaust system in my garage that I may end up running longer term. It too has cats and a muffler but is a bit quieter in terms of overall volume both at idle and when driving around.

ttdan said: Keeping the sports button active can be useful. Usually but you can also add decible devils or similar to bring the level back down a notch Thanks, I was always curious. I can absolutely see that it could be useful to retain the sports button depending on how one used their car and also if it would allow track day attendance without faffing about putting stuff on and off.

fioran0 said: Is the rear muffler delete done to keep the sports button active on the side cans. Can you pass track day noise levels with a rear delete and the rest in place? Bypassing the side mufflers makes the car quite drony at 2-3krpm which people might not like. Shame really as there's lots of junk that can be removed saving weight and preventing heat build up as you say.

fioran0 said: ttdan said: Keeping the sports button active can be useful. Usually but you can also add decible devils or similar to bring the level back down a notch Thanks, I was always curious. I can absolutely see that it could be useful to retain the sports button depending on how one used their car and also if it would allow track day attendance without faffing about putting stuff on and off. Maybe i wasn't that clear. The sports button wont save you on a TF noise limit as the valves just open sooner with the button on but they still open 1k later up the rev range regardless. You can defeat this by putting a stopper over the vacuum intake on the control valve which then stops them opening at all. OK for a static test but a noticeable slight power loss when driving on track if you leave the stopper on. With an x pipe you get to keep all these options with the flaps and still get a pretty nice sounding car and then use dd's if you need to stay at around 105db.

V8KSN said: Afternoon all I am lucky enough to own a 997.1 GT3 and I have put a Hayward & Scott bypass pipe on it and it sounds epic! The thing is, I want MORE pops and bangs and heavy Darth-Vader-with-Cattarh-in-throat like breathing, is it possible? Should I change the cats to get more noise? Cheers I also have a 997.1 GT3 and keep looking in to tuning options and general view appears to be "dont mess with it". JZM have told me several times that they often end up working on cars putting them back to standard due to poor tuning work. This is hear say I should add, but given JZM could take some cash off me to tune my car - I am inclined to believe them! However, DMS do claim to have a remap for increasing power on a GT3 to 436. So, one idea could be to contac DMS. Alot of over run noise on an engine comes from timing of fueling on a trailing throttle. You could try contacting DMS and see if they can do a custom engine map which includes "added drama" on the overrun. Ideally pops and bangs and several feet of flame! Report back if you get any where as I would be interested in this...

F40GT346 said: I also have a 997.1 GT3 and keep looking in to tuning options and general view appears to be "dont mess with it". JZM have told me several times that they often end up working on cars putting them back to standard due to poor tuning work. This is hear say I should add, but given JZM could take some cash off me to tune my car - I am inclined to believe them! However, DMS do claim to have a remap for increasing power on a GT3 to 436. So, one idea could be to contac DMS. Alot of over run noise on an engine comes from timing of fueling on a trailing throttle. You could try contacting DMS and see if they can do a custom engine map which includes "added drama" on the overrun. Ideally pops and bangs and several feet of flame! Report back if you get any where as I would be interested in this... Thanks for your reply but I have decided to leave it as it is. The car is fast enough for me and I don't like 'chipping' cars after a previous bad experience so it looks like I am stuck with it as it is……no great hardship though

V8KSN said: F40GT346 said: I also have a 997.1 GT3 and keep looking in to tuning options and general view appears to be "dont mess with it". JZM have told me several times that they often end up working on cars putting them back to standard due to poor tuning work. This is hear say I should add, but given JZM could take some cash off me to tune my car - I am inclined to believe them! However, DMS do claim to have a remap for increasing power on a GT3 to 436. So, one idea could be to contac DMS. Alot of over run noise on an engine comes from timing of fueling on a trailing throttle. You could try contacting DMS and see if they can do a custom engine map which includes "added drama" on the overrun. Ideally pops and bangs and several feet of flame! Report back if you get any where as I would be interested in this... Thanks for your reply but I have decided to leave it as it is. The car is fast enough for me and I don't like 'chipping' cars after a previous bad experience so it looks like I am stuck with it as it is……no great hardship though Have the same H&S X Pipe, Honestly doesn't need to be any louder , love love love it just as it is

To clarify the Haywood and Scott bypass pipe is worth me doing then?

I have just had Haywood and Scott by pass system fitted. At the same time the sport switch fixed which hadn't been working since I bought the car. The sound track is now awesome and can strongly recommend the modification if you like a nice sound track. Granted it doesn't pop and bang like my old T350 but sounds so much better than standard pipe did. Will post up video when I can.

That's my birthday present to myself next month then all sorted.

pete a said: That's my birthday present to myself next month then all sorted. That was my excuse, at least it was my 50th . And my wife reckons I'm difficult to buy for.

pete a said: That's my birthday present to myself next month then all sorted. You will NOT be disapointed! I was a little aprehensive before I did mine but DBlue and a few others on here convinced me......I am SO glad they did! Car sounds amazing

Hayward & Scott fitted my x-pipe to my 7.1 GT3 in July 2012, as I've done about 15,000 miles since then. It's always unplugged for max effect. Trackdays I take my Decibel Devils along and so far no issues (but I do tend to just do the more noisy tracks like Silverstone, Spa and Ring). Everything definitely gets a bit more burbly / poppy / bangy over time. My theory is this is because the centre muffler is gone so the side mufflers are having a harder time of it and thus wearing quicker... Sounds good but could be pricey down the line potentially. That's not based on any facts, just my own thoughts about it. That could actually be an opportunity though, to put the centre muffler back in, and next time try a system that instead deletes the side mufflers lol.