Newbie here

Hi Folks, After looking around for many months, I'm finally a happy owner of a 2000 Carrera couple days ago. Will strictly be a fun car. Black, hardtop with proper 6-speed and only 58k on the odo. In my opinion, it has tasteful upgrades with quality parts which indicated to me the car was taken cared of. Ran the carfax and it's clean. That's the good. Now the bad - the car doesn't have any service history at all. Given the car's profile and what I thought was a decent price I was sure it'll sell quick in my market so I jumped on it. Any advise for a newb will be appreciated. Got a quote from a local Porsche specialist for post inspection for 900 and IMS replacement for 6800! That's like 30% of what I paid for the car. I knew IMS is pricey but not that pricey. In my search previously, I thought PPI run about 200-300. I'm also aware of the IMS and bore scoring but is there a way to find out if these were taken cared of? Just being cautious before I start my 911 journey. Any recommended mechanic in socal would be great. Thanks and happy Friday!

Hi Mr. Newby,,,Welcome !! From you post I think you got q nice car and will enjoy it very much... On a 2000 year model I wouldn't worry or pay for a Bore Scope, It has a Ferrostan Iron Plating on the pistons that is a lot more durable than later models with Ferroprint... so skip that in the PPI and save yourself some $$.. Also on the 2000 model you have the dual row IMSB that is a lot more robust then the single that is notorious for failing...so don't be overly concerned with that but it you got the cash and seems you do then replace it with the IMS Solution and never think about it again... On the 2000 model where bore scoring and IMSB is much less of a concern the "cracked head" issue is more prevalent... so change the water pump and keep an eye on the coolant condition... Also when you post prices please include more detail,... your $6800 for an IMSB seems way high unless it includes the $1800 IMS Solution plus a new full clutch and new dual mass flywheel...IF it doesn't you could ship the car all the across the US to another shop and pay for the shipping both ways and still save $$$ !!!!

Happy Friday! And welcome to the madness of 996 ownership! These are amazing cars when properly sorted. Super reliable. I drive mine everyday with zero worries. To be fair, my engine is relatively new with 25k miles, and I know the history of it. Yes, these cars are not cheap to maintain. It sounds like you got an amazing deal on the car. That's almost 'roller' pricing. I don't know the going rate for IMSB but depending where you are in socal, that may be an OK price. Hopefully others will comment. AOS is the other wildcard. Get the crankcase vacuum tested, maybe its in the purchase inspection. This will tell you if it needs replacement. The safest course is to get the UAOS installed it fiixes the AOS issues and more. Engine maintenance history is your biggest issue. Engine status is unknown. You need to make it known as fast as you can. Change the oil immediately, send a sample for used oil analysis. Do that again between 1000-2500 miles.(6mo or less) Now you have a baseline of what the engine is generating as far as wear particles. You might find bearing materials or fuel dilution or nothing. The point is that you will know what it's doing and can plot your PM plan from that. The best way to search in Rennlist is to use Google to search an issue. It will find information with Rennlist faster than trying to search within. Anything you need to do has been discussed in this forum.

https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=6423371847685646

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That quote seems a bit ridiculous even with a Solution kit. Go on the LN website and there's a list of approved installers, that's how I found the place that did mine in OH. Retro kit with a new clutch and RMS was under $3k. No way to really know if it was done other than receipts or opening it up. I believe 2000 was the transition year from dual to single row, so I did mine just in case even though it ended up being the more robust dual. Congrats on the purchase!

I have a 99 with a dual row bearing that hasn't been changed with 60K on the clock. I also have some funky stuff going on with my oil analysis that might indicate that a bearing is going bad. I was thinking of changing the IMS bearing, and I will do the work myself, but I am really balancing it against the potential issues in the motor and that I might be throwing good money away. Just sent out my latest oil change sample for analysis. I will see what this one says. Congrats on the purchase, I would just drive it an enjoy it for a while.

Thanks and appreciate the input. The quote of 6800 was just for the IMS! He was clear any other work would require additional material cost plus some labor - I thought it was ridiculous too. For the cracked head concern, should I change the water pump from the start or should i wait for any symptoms to show up? Seems everything is running good, no leaks, no funny noises. I've owned an M3 in the past and now realize why there's a cult following for the 911. Please tell me more about this as I'm not aware of this. AOS and UAOS?. "AOS is the other wildcard. Get the crankcase vacuum tested, maybe its in the purchase inspection. This will tell you if it needs replacement. The safest course is to get the UAOS installed it fiixes the AOS issues and more." I'm hoping you guys are right on the robust IMS and the less concerning bore scoring but will check out LN. What else would be your suggested first to-do for me? Cheers.

Also, the oil analysis seems like good idea. I see LN also does this service unless you guys have other recommendation.

Congrats on the new 996! You got it for a great deal. You should just replace the water pump (i recommend pierburg composite impeller) along with the thermostat (LN low temp) and serpentine belt. A few hundred and a days work to put your mind at ease. You just don't know how old the current WP is, whether they used the metal impeller version or if the composite impeller is breaking and shooting fragments off. Also take off the front bumper and clean out the radiators. I totally agree with oil change and a used oil analysis, hopefully this will help you sleep better at night. Then get in and under and around every nook and cranny of the car to discover and investigate everything you can! Enjoy!

Congrats on the car! Here are some thoughts to add to all of the great suggestions. 1. Find a Porsche Indy that knows the 996. LN website is a good place to start. So is your local PCA. The M96 engine needs a specialist that know what there doing. Not a Mercedes, BMW or Porsche generalist. 2. During the PPI, drop the sump to see whats in it. Cut open the oil filter as well, and test the oil to establish a baseline. ​​As it pertains to refreshing/bullet proofing the engine, @Porschetech3 discussed the differences in bore coatings and that dual row IMSB. As a 22 year 996 owner, here is what i would do. 1. Replace the water pump ASAP with another oem water pump to mitigate the risk of your heads cracking. Replace the water pump every ~ 5 years or so. Check the reservoir and all plastic rubber bits since the car is 25 years old. 2. Replace the factory AOS with the UAOS w/ Track drain. 3. Replace the IMSB w/ the LN Solution (permanent fix) or Retrofit (needs to be replaced in 7 years). While you are in there, do the RMS and look at the clutch and flywheel to see if they need to be replaced. 4. While you are in there, might as well replace the oil cooler/exchanger as well as the oil pressure sender. 5. Not to mention have your indy take a good look at all of the powersteering parts. After 25 years, the plastic and rubber bits get brittle and you will eventually get a leak. Plenty of other "while you are in there" things you can do as it pertains to the engine. As well a refresh/upgrade items for the suspension, exhaust, interior, exterior, etc. But the above list will eliminate headaches and bigger problems down the road. Best to ask as many questions as you can. The 996 is an awesome car that is extremely durable. Good luck.

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Congrats on the car! Pictures please!

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$6800 to replace the IMS only makes sense if your shop is charging $400/hour for labor. I have no contacts in SoCal, but here is what my very good NY Indy did. 19.5 hours labor to go over the car and build a needs list, then remove transmission clutch and flywheel to perform IMS Retrofit, replace RMS seal, install new flywheel and clutch and reinstall the transmission. Drained and replaced transmission, coolant, changed hose clamps, install LN Engineering spin-on filter, fill and bleed cooling system, change oil and mount new tires. At $155/hour, that was $3,023. Add in the IMS Retrofit, and its another $900. (As aside, I had this work done in 2021 when his labor rate was $102, so it was just under $2K. Those days are gone).

I haven't used the car for couple of days and I noticed a small leak on the ground which seems to be coolant. Is that a sign to change the water pump? Here's some pics, please comment.

Track down where the coolant is coming from. It might just be from the overflow tube draining from the top of the coolant reservoir, OR might be from a cracked coolant reservoir, from any of the tubing, connection points, hose clamps, thermostat or water pump itself.

First determine if it is coolant or oil. Think of the car as four quadrants, i.e., front left, right rear, and so on. Describe where the drip was, right rear, left rear, center rear? That will help us help you.

If the coolant leak is in the back left, it's most likely a cracked expansion tank. If that is the case, not only do you want to replace it with a Porsche tank (don't go aftermarket) but you'll want to replace the plugs and coil packs if they haven't been recently replaced. A leaking expansion tank normally leaks on the #1 cylinder coil pack (back left most cylinder) and causes misfires.

Congrats on the car, you will have a lot of fun. This forum is a great resource with lots of very knowledgeable people who share regularly. My purschase story will inform on why I recommend replacing the water pump right away. Ten years or so ago, I, too, had a great C4S in hand that was market priced well and I jumped without a PPI. So, once I got the car in my dirty mitts, I went to a very well-respected local Porsche indy, who I really liked and had do more work over the years I was in Idaho. They found a few things, mostly minor, and I did maybe $1000 all in for the Post Purchase Inspection and some work. My wife could not take me to pick it up, so I Ubered to the shop and drove home. About halfway, smoke billowed out of the engine compartment, so I pulled over and coolant was everywhere. Called the indy, they recommended a good flatbed towing company, and I returned it to the shop. Turned out the water pump had crapped out! In their PPI, they noted that there was no leakage around the pump or expansion tank, etc. But, they recommended replacing the pump in the next year or so. They mentioned the plastic impeller and failure rates. As I was still cash poor (not financing the car at just over $30k, had left sizable hole in bank account), I was planning on doing that later. Of course, later became RIGHT F'ING NOW! They found all the pieces of the impeller, flushed the system a few times, and I have done maybe another 15,000k...yeah, I do not drive it enough. They also give me a 50% credit on labor because they felt bad for me and I was a new customer. Very nice owner and team. Anyway, welcome to the club and I wish you all the very best.

You guys are the best. Appreciate the guidance and advice. I crawled under the car and can not see where the leak is coming from. It now appears to stop and now wonder if that's water from the AC - will monitor it. The liquid dripped from the rear center somewhat in between the mufflers. @ScottBLEGO thanks for the background and I will find a reputable indy and see if I can hoist the car and check under and strongly consider changing the WP. Cheers!

A/C drip is from the HVAC box in the cabin under the dash. Not in the rear. -Tom

A minor coolant drip in the back, might look like a hose clip by the water pump, but can be the water pump bearing seal. Swap it out for a new one when you can Also while doing that, add a new serpentine belt and tensioners

Good call out guys on the coolant as it was below the min and I could not even see the liquid. As I looked inside the coolant cap, I see some green goo residue on the inside of the cap. Is this normal? For now I will add coolant and Googling it says to use G12 compatible or pentosin equivalent (pink color). Any advice on brand to use? I will not use the car in the meantime as I have an appointment with my mechanic to hoist the car and check under n the next week or so. Also, checking the belts, all seems be quite new and no sign of wear. Oil was recently change per the seller and it's clear and proper amount.

Green goo? The OE spec coolant for this car is pink in color. I used Porsche coolant from the dealership and it says �G40� on the bottle, and is pink in color. And from what I�ve read online, I think G12 and G40 are compatible with each other. Next time I�m changing my coolant, I�ll be using Zerex G40 to save some money. Anyway, the green goo is slightly concerning because it may mean that the coolant in your car is probably green in color, and of unknown compatibility with the G12/G40. If you pour some G12 into your cooling system, it may or may not mix nicely with your existing coolant. And being that you have an appointment next week, with the possibility of your coolant being replaced, you might not even cause any damage by mixing incompatible coolants for such a short amount of time. But why take the risk? These cars� cooling systems are complex and can be finicky and fragile. If I were in your shoes, I�d just fill it to the maximum fill level with distilled water . Judging from your car�s license plate, I assume you�re in California, and I�m guessing that you�re located in SoCal. If so, your ambient temperatures are unlikely to get below 40 degrees F, much less freezing. You also probably have enough anti-freeze in your car to compensate for the addition of distilled water. At this point, it would be best to perform a cooling system flush using only distilled water, and giving it a final fill of G12 or G40. Only then could you be confident that the coolant is totally correct for your car. (I actually flushed my car twice with distilled water, and the second flush was basically clear. If you�re paying someone for the labor, it�s probably unnecessary unless you�re really picky with money to spare. But even then, that money could go towards cooling system upgrades, like water pump, center radiator, etc.)

@996love - awesome and appreciate the advice. My bad as I'm color blind, I had my wife check the color and she said it's more YELLOW than green on the cap. Went to O'reilly and checked their chart that says Zelex G05 (yellow) is for Porsche 1996 or older and the G40 says 2005 to present. They did not have any G12 so I couldn't check but I researched that G40 is somewhat equivalent to G12. My 2000 996 didn't come with owner's manual and I'm learning it's not readily available online either so I couldn't check factory recommended coolant. Your recommendation of filling it with distilled water makes sense and what I'll do until I see my mechanic to check the water pump or flush the system with all new G40 coolant. Is your 996 the same year as mine? Should I need a new WP (I can bring parts to my mechanic) do you recommend this from LN engineering or are there better sources? Porsche OEM 986/996 Water Pump Kit inc. Gaskets, Belt, Bolts, Low Temp Thermostat, & Driven CSP $399.00 In stockSKU: 996-106-011-57-KIT

Since you have a 2000, you absolutely have to worry about a cracked cylinder head. Therefore, it�s no longer a question of �if� you need a water pump. GC996�s recommendation to swap out the water pump is very important and should be heeded. I think LN Engineering is a great and reputable source to purchase from. Their low temperature thermostat is one of my favorite products!

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I bought that kit and gave it to my indy 3 years ago. Still working great. I really think the CSP helps.