6 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHReplacing front and rear discs and pds
Leading reported evidence
Clean fluid / parts bath (read plastic tray
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
I just soak them while I am changing the pads in a cleaning fluid / parts bath (read plastic tray
Leading evidence: 'Clean fluid / parts bath (read plastic tray' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean fluid / parts bath (read plastic tray' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Same, don't think I have ever been required to change caliper bolts when changing pads, as long as you soak them over night in penetrating fluid then crack them off gently with a long bar and a well fitting socket you should be fine.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I am about to replace the discs and pads on my 996.
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Suggestion
I just soak them while I am changing the pads in a cleaning fluid / parts bath (read plastic tray
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Suggestion
I tend to agree with Robert, but clean them up and use Aluslip on the threads.
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Suggestion
Same, don't think I have ever been required to change caliper bolts when changing pads, as long as you soak them over night in penetrating fluid then crack them off gently with a long bar and a well fitting socket you should be fine.
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Suggestion
totally unnecessary to change caliper bolts, there're steel and go into alloy calipers not under any strain, re use original, just don't over tighten use good torque wrench.
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Suggestion
totally unnecessary to change caliper bolts, there're steel and go into alloy calipers not under any strain, re use original, just don't over tighten use good torque wrench.
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Suggestion
Its dead easy to gall the thread removing caliper bolts, hence reason to use penetrating oil and often heat when removing and grease well before replacing.
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6 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Porsche Club GB: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T161234Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I am about to replace the discs and pads on my 996. And a member of the forum gave me a very informative u tube link. However the link does not say what type and size of torx socket I need to remove the large bolts which hold the caliper to the car. I have purchased new bolts which require a star type head which I understand are diferent to the earlier bolts fitted to my car which I think have a hexagonal head.
Alan
totally unnecessary to change caliper bolts, there're steel and go into alloy calipers not under any strain, re use original, just don't over tighten use good torque wrench.
Unless they have changed them since I last did it, it should be a 10mm Hex bit you need - not Torx. See here: http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=231501
I tend to agree with Robert, but clean them up and use Aluslip on the threads.
Same, don't think I have ever been required to change caliper bolts when changing pads, as long as you soak them over night in penetrating fluid then crack them off gently with a long bar and a well fitting socket you should be fine. I just soak them while I am changing the pads in a cleaning fluid / parts bath (read plastic tray
) and then dry and regrease the threads lightly before putting them back in.
I would have thought that they are steel & go through aluminium calipers into steel hubs-I have never changed them as long as they torque up correctly except where I found one had been damaged by a previous owner -all on a 964 of course but still much the same ,I think.
Don't mind being corrected though.
The official view is that they should be renewed as they may have stretched.
unfortunately not, in a bid to lower unsprung weight the wheel carrier is an alloy in which the steel hub and bearing sit, also the alloy caliper is bolted with steel bolts torqued in this case to 85Nm, relatively lo so no chance of them stretching, unlike say head bolts that scream whenever rev rise as the head tries desperately to lift off. Its dead easy to gall the thread removing caliper bolts, hence reason to use penetrating oil and often heat when removing and grease well before replacing. forget WD40, use plus gas.
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