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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Replaced clutch (Sachs), flywheel (Luk), IMS bearing, AOS, etc.
Leading evidence: 'Replace clutch (sachs), flywheel (luk), ims bearing, aos, etc' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'resi is seperated internally' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect line' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
The issue is the resi is seperated internally so if the is a brake line issue the cluch still works and vise versa.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Problem: Had to disconnect line to the clutch slave cylinder to get it mounted.
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Suggestion
What caused you to replace the clutch, and not the pressure plate?
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Suggestion
Had a pressure bleeder on top, opened the bleed valve, then pumped the clutch pedal back and forth as fast as you can using your hand (two person job).
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
10 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
3 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
Then I tried the procedure in "101 Projects" and it worked - almost.
Car: 2000 996.1 C4 Manual cab. 77,500 miles
Background: Just completed an engine-out maintenance. Replaced clutch (Sachs), flywheel (Luk), IMS bearing, AOS, etc.
Problem: Had to disconnect line to the clutch slave cylinder to get it mounted. (Did not replace clutch master or slave cylinders.) I tried several clutch bleeding procedures with no luck. I could press the peddle to the floor and the clutch would engage. I could go through the gears successfully (car is on jack stands). However, the clutch peddle would only come up half way. I would need to pull it up the rest of the way. Then I tried the procedure in "101 Projects" and it worked - almost.
1. Connect pressure bleeder. (Used Pentosin DOT 4)
2. Press in and hold clutch peddle to floor.
3. Pump bleeder to 22 psi.
4. Attach bleeder hose to slave cylinder.
5. Open bleeder valve and wait until all bubbles pass. Then close valve.
6. Raise clutch peddle.
After closing the slave cylinder bleeder valve the clutch peddle worked properly. I tried the peddle about 10 times and it worked fine. Then I release the pressure on the bleeder tank and tried the peddle again. It would only come up half way! So I repeated the procedure again and had the same results.
What should I do next? Could I have a bad master or slave cylinder?
How about this.
1. don't touch the pedal
2. Connect up the pressure bleeder with fluid in it
3. Pump it up to 15 psi
4. Open the bleeder valve to see if any air comes out.
5. Pull pedal up to the top if it is not there already.
6. Close bleeder valve.
7. Remove pressure bleeder.
I had a real tough time doing my son�s 944. Had a pressure bleeder on top, opened the bleed valve, then pumped the clutch pedal back and forth as fast as you can using your hand (two person job). Finally firmed up on the second go of that procedure
Agree with above dont preaa the pedal as it will just pish though.
Also some dont put the brake fluid in the pressure bottle, they only filll the mc resi. The issue is the resi is seperated internally so if the is a brake line issue the cluch still works and vise versa. The seperator is pretty high so make sure the resi is full and add a pint or so to the bottle.
Yelcab I tried your procedure and got the same results as before. The pedal would function properly until I released the pressure form the bleeder. Then, the pedal would only come up half way. Could the car not being level be a problem? It is on jack stands with the rear about 6 - 8 inches higher than the front. Any other thoughts?
I replaced the pressure plate and clutch disc, as well as the flywheel. The clutch disc was pretty worn but not failing. The clutch was functioning ok.
The service manual process is this, assuming an empty system
1. Start with clutch pedal on the floor. The helper spring will keep it there.
2. Pressure bleed, pressure at the master & bleed at the slave. Get the air out as usual. Frequently refill the master because the tap for the clutch is close to the top.
3. Close bleeders, remove pressure bleeder.
4. Lift clutch pedal.
5. Do a final manual bleed with clutch pedal if needed.
This has always worked for me.
To get the clutch on the floor with the system partially bled open the bleeder screw and push the clutch down. It ought to stay there.
If you can't get that to work pressure bleed it from the slave. There is air in the master and because of where the fittings are it's hard to get it out.
