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YOUR RESEARCH996.2 headlight rebuild
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
You can either order the DIY kit and install it yourself, send in your taillights for me to do the install, or have me buy a set of taillights (new or used) that I will modify.
Leading evidence: 'Use )' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace projector while you have them apart' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I'd replace the projector while you have them apart with the Retrofitlab parts for a better beam pattern.
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Suggestion
I make a DIY kit for wide body 996 taillights that includes red halo style strips for running lights and brakes, and switchback strips for blinkers and reverse.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Using leather gloves and some towels for padding, put flat blade screw drivers down between the black plastic body and the clear lens rim.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Then I used a strong "box cutter" (utility knife) to cut down into the sealant as much as I could (some parts are under the upper edge and not accessible).
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Suggestion
I make a DIY kit for wide body 996 taillights that includes red halo style strips for running lights and brakes, and switchback strips for blinkers and reverse.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
You can either order the DIY kit and install it yourself, send in your taillights for me to do the install, or have me buy a set of taillights (new or used) that I will modify.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Then I used a strong "box cutter" (utility knife) to cut down into the sealant as much as I could (some parts are under the upper edge and not accessible).
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25 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Generation: 20261026T174436Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hello All,
Just like anyone with the soy(?) based wires inside your headlight and 20 years of aging, my headlights need some work.
The lenses were polished before I bought the car, but it shows.
And the insulation on internal wiring in the headlight is disintegrating (which can lead to a short, and all kinds of electrical issues, I hear...)
So it is time to fix them.
I bought an extra few (yes 3) at the LA Dismantler auction (because they were Turbo lights), and have started the job to rebuild them.
One was yellowed and hazy, one has a crack in the edge of the lens, and all were missing bits and pieces and have defective wiring.
I started by learning everything I could about what can be done, what is involved, and how others have done it (both successes and not so much)
In the last week I dissembled the worst of them
(it will be the Guinea Pig), learning as I went...
Yesterday I wet sanded the lens (320, 600, 1500... because that is what I had).
And today removed the lens, the wiring harness and the fog light and the turn signal reflector.
Here are some pics.
Most of the internals removed
Wet sanded
The lens coming off
The wiring
and the main plug coming apart
and fully "de-pinned"
I have silicone wire and some of the connectors on the way,
still looking for a few others.
My next post will be what connectors I have found so far,
if you know of a better source or have found the missing ones,
please let me know!
Paul
I found that going too fine on the headlight lens does not promote longevity of the 2k clear coat. My lenses look spectacular 8 years after I sanded and coated them, except for where it is now peeling off. Same with the headlights on my sons RX8.
Next time I will leave the lenses a bit rough so there is a tooth for the clear to adhere to.
I look forward to following your progress on this project.
I too want to start a similar journey on doing this to mine......but want to open them up and pain the internals black. Looking at mine and the wires look very similar to yours so "liquid tape" will be needed for now. Keep us posted on your completion
Thanks All,
Nothing new for the last few days.
I have been searching for "parts" :
High Temp wire, Bulb connectors: 9006 (HID), H11 (high beam bulb), H3 (fog light), parking light: Hella 149915 (Mercedes marker), turn signal: 2.8mm 90 degree female spade, Leveling motor: BMW 8377234. Main connector pins (Mouser).
I am stumped by the high beam shutter control plug on the HID assembly.
Does anyone know where to find this:
The clip on the front
The door on the back
BTW, it is pretty small,
it is 10mm across, and 6mm high (into the module)
This is what the female terminal inside looks like;
Sorry,
I couldn't get the iPhone to focus on IT, and not my fingernail
(that is a narrow depth of focus!)
I'd replace the projector while you have them apart with the Retrofitlab parts for a better beam pattern. The bonus is you can avoid having to source that connector above.
Bingo!
I can tell you that that small connector does not exist. I thought about having it recreated for 3D printing, but found out, after talking to both Mouser and Digikey, that that particular pin is no longer available.
As
@paopao
states, the solution is to get the Retrofitlab upgrade. If you take a close look at the OEM projector lens and (especially) the reflector, you'll see why the light output is so pathetic...
I have all 996 RFL kits in stock and can ship in 24 hours
I can confirm that that is the only connector that cannot be sourced. I even considered having it scanned for 3d printing, but then I found out that the pin itself is no longer available. I had the folks at both Mouser and Digikey do a deep dive on them and they both came up empty.
The solution, of course, is to install the Retrofitlab upgrade kit so you don't need that connector anymore.
YES,
and,
NO, it is on the inside.
FWIW, I noticed the Turbo headlights are exactly the same as the regular 996.2 headlights, except for the outer acrylic lens/cover.
They all have a smooth "chrome" finish underneath the acrylic.
And, I assume (haven't done a lot of research) the Halogen 996.2 lights didn't have the headlight washer (or chrome pop-up), and look just like the GT3 RSR headlight, without the screw hole...
Paul
How hard is it to separate the lens from the body? I have a .1 and want to spray the inside outer rim black and just wondering if I'll mess it up? What is the process?
How I did it:
I disassembled as much of the internals as I could.
Then I used a strong "box cutter" (utility knife) to cut down into the sealant as much as I could (some parts are under the upper edge and not accessible).
I put the headlight into a pre-heated 250 degree oven for about 20 minutes.
Using leather gloves and some towels for padding, put flat blade screw drivers down between the black plastic body and the clear lens rim.
Not the rim that you can see, the rim that is down inside the dark grey glue.
Get down under the lens and pry it up.
I started just above the headlight washer hole, then worked my way up to the top of the headlight, and released enough of it to be able to pull the lens up with my hands.
I was actually surprised how easy it was.
I have a video of the prying part on my phone, it took 25 seconds.
There is a video of someone (Arron "Help Me DIY") doing it on youtube, but that was where I learned what NOT to do!
(I did learn how the lens is glued into the body from that video though)
I was cringing the entire video... IMO he didn't cut into the glue enough, didn't heat the headlight enough, and was prying the visible part of the lens (you need to get under the rim that sticks down into the glue!
But, in his defense, he has done A LOT on that channel, that no one else has published (so he is figuring it out himself)
Disclaimer:
I have only done this once. Nothing bad happened. Maybe I was lucky.
These are expensive headlights, if you do it, and screw up your headlight, it is your own fault...
Paul
On lights---
Does anyone make LED inserts/clear "xyz" for C4S/Turbo tail lights? They have the indent for the heckblende thing so are different from every other 996. Or maybe a "kit" to semi-update the lights? What about LED strip or "xyz" for the 3rd/4th brake light? I was thinking, leave the 3rd brake light alone and add a 4th to a "duck tail" or similar. I have seen some good looking 997 lights but nothing for the 996 C4S/Turbo rear lights.
Curious, interested.
YMMV
Yeah, I get the "Expensive" part. While I try to do my own car-fix-work, I stop when it gets too close to the "Expensive" part because of wrong tools, the-first-time, OK up to a point, don't wreck (other) things trying to fix 1 thing, and so on.
YMMV
Hi there!
I make a DIY kit for wide body 996 taillights that includes red halo style strips for running lights and brakes, and switchback strips for blinkers and reverse.
Here's a quick demo:
Vimeo
*** re-posting this under my personal account since my supporting vendor account
@Adrian Taillights
requires admin approval all of a sudden***
Hi there, I make a DIY kit for converting wide body (or narrow body) 996 OEM taillights to LED. It includes red halo-style strips for running lights and brakes, and switchback strips for blinkers and reverse.
Here's a quick video:
Vimeo
I can see the video and those are similar (?) to what I want. The "?" is because I really don't know what is/is-not possible. However...
I can NOT find the video/part kit on your website. I put "996 wide body halo tails kit" in Question, it doesn't find it. Is this kit plug-n-play or other resistors etc needed? What is cost? Do you have LED for the 3rd light above standard C4S spoiler? Details on how to install?, or do you do install on tail lights - service?
Thanks for answers.
YMMV
I had a mishap with my web site over the weekend and still in the process of reconstructing everything...
The wide body kit is 99% the same as the one described as the narrow body kit.
You can either order the DIY kit and install it yourself, send in your taillights for me to do the install, or have me buy a set of taillights (new or used) that I will modify.
I hope to have the store complete again by the end of this weekend.
For detailed pricing, please send me a PM.
--Adrian (on behalf of
@Adrian Taillights
)
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
