15 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDoor latch mechanism help
Leading reported evidence
Install be part
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Has anyone successfully fitted the be part.ba few months back it was £90 and now I'm seeing it a lot cheaper.
Leading evidence: 'Install be part' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check pics out' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I've had a look online and checked the pics out on the adverts and they all look the same and state 996,???
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Suggestion
its 0.5 hrs to replace a fob as a stand alone job ..
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Suggestion · Original poster
I will replace the latch assy with s genuine part then tackle the fobs when I can get onto the mainland.
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Suggestion
With a working fob then people replacing the lock with this part would not have an issue .
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T152433Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi folks, I have finally got around to replacing my door latch mechanism and just looked at the plug (9 pin) to find on the new mechanism one of the pins is much lower than the rest. Does anyone have one laying about they could look at and tell me if the pins on the female socket are all the same height. I now don't want to strip the door out to find the new mechanism has a manufacturing fault It's annoying as it's my own fault for not doing this job months ago. The seller online has now disappeared to make things worse. Thanks in advance.
Hmmm the afternoon is being tedious. I managed to sort the electrical plug out and having stripped the old mechanism out the part that opens the door from the outside door handle is pointing the wrong way and s different design to the old one. The one I bought is the replacement be part. I've had a look online and checked the pics out on the adverts and they all look the same and state 996,??? Has anyone successfully fitted the be part.ba few months back it was £90 and now I'm seeing it a lot cheaper. And yes of course buying a genuine one would avoid all this but unfortunately it's where I'm at at the moment. Any help? Tia
Feels like I'm talking to myself here but would like to save other people the agro I'm having
On eBay the one listed 996 and boxter is the wrong one. The one listed Mk5 golf is correct. Long story short study the pictures and get the one that looks correct you need the mechanism that allows the exterior door handle to operate the mechanism toward you and not down. I'll take pics if anyone is interested but for now I'll stop talking to myself.
I has a faulty l9ck on my 997.2 and the Porsche part and the VW part were identical, in fact the VW part looked better. There must be ave part if there was one for the later models
I know I'm flogging this subject to death but.........does anyone know if there are 2 different types of door handle operation on a 996? I personally can't see it. I'm amazed the door lock mechanism on eBay listed for the 996 is the wrong one and it even looks wrong in the picture????
Have you read this on Rennlist?
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1062574-diy-996-door-latch-replacement-detailed.htm
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It has a bit of useful information about the different part numbers for the latch mechanisms and VW equivalents.
Well, I'm not sure if there is a moral to this story or am I just unlucky. The correct latch assembly came, fitted and window now drops as it should and from that perspective works perfectly. However, the alarm now goes off every time I unlock the car. I used to get the 5 seconds grace to get the key in the ignition, not any more. Fed up with my alarm system at this point, tried all sorts to get keys to work etc etc. Anyway, alarm might not be anything to do with the new lock, or that's what's caused it. For now I'll just live with it.
Something doesn't sound right with alarm and door latch interface (assuming you are unlocking via. The button on fob) as when unlocked the alarm is disarmed and you shouldn't have a grace period?
If unlocking with key, you should have grace period so would suggest that alarm is seeing a fault/trigger, typically that the other door or frunk is open (I think) which may point back to your repair.
Sorry can't be of more help as don't know the alarm wiring or operation fully yet, still learning my way through the mechanicals!
I didn't go into detail with alarm as there are threads and pages galore on it. My car has 2 remotes and neither work and never have done. I lock/unlock by the key. Suffice to say I have tried all the suggested ideas on the various threads and none work. Simple fact is it needs to go to a main dealer and be plugged in but there are no main dealers where I live so will have to wait. First world problems lol.
The Keys are either not sending a signal or the receiving unit under the seat is not receiving it . I would have a look and see if there has not been water ingress . ( Maybe the other thread ) I have the wiring diagram / service manual . send me a PM if you wish to discuss further
Hi mate, no water ingress at all. Fuse is fine and central locking works fine. I've been down so many route's I'm now resigned to living with it for now. In my case I think it's a main dealer recode to be honest. The remotes have never done anything since I bought her oh and red led flashes correctly and new batteries in remotes. I think it's a 996 weaknesses to be honest judging by the amount of threads on it.
If i understand correctly you have fitted a VW lock assembly instead of a Porsche one ?
I've been told these are the same but im afraid i have no knowledge of them .
I expect though that the alarm circuit that tells the car its been manually opened is not the same on a VW lock .. if this is the case then it would explain why your alarm triggers as soon as you open the door .
It's already been offered but the wiring diagram shows which pins on the alarm CU you could check to see if it was getting a signal .
With a working fob then people replacing the lock with this part would not have an issue .
That's my assumption anyways .
Key fob and i will agree .. they break easily , if unused they roll out of sync and many times i've tried to get them working ( brand new spare keys ) but have failed .
The cost .. well best i dont comment there .. they ain't exactly made of gold or are extremely complicated .
You can get one replaced at an INDY although i realise they are few are far apart in your neck of the woods but it will save you a little on labour costs ..
its 0.5 hrs to replace a fob as a stand alone job .. down here OPC labour is £250 against my garage at £100 .. im guessing its similar where you are .
Your spot on with the VW part, although externally it looks the same and the micro switches operate as they should the alarm circuit part is obviously different. It might work on an earlier car but perhaps the gen 2 has a slightly different protocol. Truth is I don't know. Fitting a genuine door latch assy is next on the list but for now can wait. The car is rarely locked anyway and there is no car crime here. If I have to lock it and it goes off for s second or two it's no big deal. I will replace the latch assy with s genuine part then tackle the fobs when I can get onto the mainland. The non genuine parts might work.......but might not. You pays your money as the saying goes.
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