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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHNeed help with rear suspension refresh
Leading reported evidence
Replace first couple of parts, no problem
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Leading evidence: 'Replace first couple of parts, no problem' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend doing these along' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
First problem, the bolt extends out, I used a ratcheting wrench to remove the nut but I don�t have enough clearance to actually take the nut and wrench off.
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Suggestion
IMHO, now hearing your LCA bushings are totally shot, would recommend doing these along with the coil overs.
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Suggestion
Makes sense as long as you're in there to replace all obviously worn out parts.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I�m trying to replace the suspension components using the FCP Euro kit.
Since I got the stupid wrench stuck, I had to grind down the bolt to get the nut and wrench off, and then cross thread the nut back on to use the ball joint separator.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
First problem, the bolt extends out, I used a ratcheting wrench to remove the nut but I don�t have enough clearance to actually take the nut and wrench off.
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I�m trying to replace the suspension components using the FCP Euro kit. I replaced the first couple of parts, no problem. However I have a problem with this one and have spent a couple of hours trying to get it out.
First problem, the bolt extends out, I used a ratcheting wrench to remove the nut but I don�t have enough clearance to actually take the nut and wrench off.
Second problem, since the bolt extends out I have to use a pickle fork to remove it but I cannot break it free. I�ve tried heating with a propane torch for 5 minutes, repeating three times to no success.
I�m hoping someone has suggestions as to how to break it free. TIA!
You need to use a ball joint separator.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html
Put the pickle fork away, it will damage the aluminum parts.
Use your new ball joint separator to pop the toe link out of the wheel carrier.
Turn the wheel carrier (like if the car had rear wheel steering) until you can get the ball joint separator on the ball joint.
Pop the ball joint off.
I had to beat the lower ball joint to death for it to pop out.
@theprf
method will help you get it off more smoothly than I did because I replaced the coffin arms so it didn�t matter if it was mangled coming out.
Sadly ball joint separators don�t fit on the rear coffin arms. The clearance was an issue for me as well. For the bolt, don�t use a ratcheting wrench or even a box end wrench. Use a regular open ended wrench to get the nut off (no idea why it is so tight even at the top of the thread). I was able to get just enough rotation with a standard wrench to fit it by flipping after each stroke.
For the ball joint, I just added a bunch of PB Blaster before a went at it with a pickle fork. The size of the fork matters. Also, use a heavy mallet. Regular hammers don�t do it. You really have to smash it to get the ball joint loose.
Finally, be sure to remove the nut completely before you remove the ball joint; you will not be able to get the nut off otherwise. Ask me how I know.
EDIT: I had already done the toe arm when i did the coffin arms so I had to hammer away but if the method for the ball joint separator above works, that�s definitely the way to go.
I had the same problem as OP in the past few days. It took me all day to figure out but the final fix went quick.
I got a ratcheting wrench stuck between the ball joint bolt and axle hub and had no way of getting it off until I did the following:
1. Remove the concentric bolt from the other end. Pop that end out of the subframe.
2. Swivel the control arm to the side on the wheel carrier - experiment with what gives you more room to fit the separator.
3. Thread the nut on top of the ball joint bolt, loosely.
4. Use the separator tool, fitting on top of the nut and the fork below the wheel carrier.
5. The nut may be impacted after that, so hold the bottom of the bolt shaft with a large pliers, and wrench the nut back off.
Since I got the stupid wrench stuck, I had to grind down the bolt to get the nut and wrench off, and then cross thread the nut back on to use the ball joint separator. Spent all day, but it worked in the end.
Edit: I noticed you got the wrench stuck, same as me. Congrats. You have to grind the bolt down with a dremel until you can slip it off. But with the other end of the control arm disconnected, you have a lot more room.
Not what I want to read this morning as I'm about to swap in coilovers, and most other posts, even FCPs are "so easy, the ball joint just falls off on it's own, you can do this in 30 mins per corner"
Also, new tool term learned today "pickle fork".
Oh yea, heed the advice here - I bought a pickle fork and it did nothing but scrape the wheel carrier a bit; didn�t budge. I rented my joint separator at autozone. That is the only thing that works.
If you're just doing coilovers, you won't need to worry about this. You don't need to remove the rear control arms for the coilovers. For the front, you can just remove the entire wheel carrier without undoing any balljoints (except for the tie rods).
Ok that's good to hear. But I will be doing LCAs soon enough as the bushings are totally shot. I was told to first do coil overs plus alignment to see if I'm going to need adjustable LCAs (depending on likely how aggressive I want to be on the track) vs just the stock meyle ones. So this pain is likely in my future soon!
FYI - I did honestly feel that removing the shock prior to doing the arms was easier. You�re not fighting the compression of the coil over when removing and you can move the wheel carrier up and down a little to make things move a little more once the bolts are out.
PB blaster on everything before you start�all four corners. And in addition to sockets; extensions, crowsfeet, ratcheting box wrench, 5lb sledge will all be your friend.
And if your coilovers come with front camber plates, you likely don�t need adj LCAs unless it�s personal preference.
IMHO, now hearing your LCA bushings are totally shot, would recommend doing these along with the coil overs. Makes sense as long as you're in there to replace all obviously worn out parts. As "totally shot bushing" will give the car a wishy~washy set in on corner transitions, undulating pavement, bumps, holes, etc, not confidence inspiring when pushing thru high speed cliff hanging turns on the ACH...
That ACH is unforgiving high speed terrain, you want to set up car to the best of your ability to go exactly where you point it, not have a mind of its own. How tall are those cliffs there..?
Better set up real good if you're going to push it up there....
"
ACH is unforgiving high speed terrain,
" ---- Actually, the roads are insanely good. There are bad patches where the road is rough and bumpy (the Mount Wilson side). But most of it going up the 2 freeway to and all along "Nine Mile" are smooth and cambered and incredible to drive. There's video of a motorbike chasing a GT3 RS 991.2 at 151 MPH. I do NOT condone anything near that level of driving, but it is an (unfortunate) testament to the quality of the roads. Yes of course, going off a cliff is bad, and there are SO many crashes and cliff dives up there... I go up weekly, but steer clear of Fridays (the big Newcombs car meetup with wacko drivers overtaking in turns across double yellows) and weekends.
Don't want to hickjack this person's thread. Going to update in my other one... but I think doing CA's makes sense. Too bad the prices just jumped on FCP arg..
Since youre the only people who might regard my bragging, as soon as Trump won the election, i started collecting (on black friday, new years sales, etc) every part for my suspension shocks springs, all bushings and arms, brake rotors & caliper kits, pads, the whole enchilada, by the time he took office.
Of course, then I asked around about a specialist to do the job and got estimates over 6k. more than i spent on all the parts. Now im planning to do it myself and this post was good info for me
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