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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHthermostat gasket question
Leading reported evidence
Clean both/all surfaces spotless and wipe down
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Suggestion
Just clean both/all surfaces spotless and wipe down with some brake clean.
Leading evidence: 'Clean both/all surfaces spotless and wipe down' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean both/all surfaces spotless and wipe down' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Then wipe them down with brake clean for a leak free seal....
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Suggestion · Original poster
Thanks for the replies...the car will sit until the new gasket and copper spray come in...I'll pay attention to cleaning the surfaces.
Clean with no oil/grease/residue/old gasket material/dirt/smegma/etc
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
Bottom line, all sealing surfaces must be spotless clean with no oil/grease/residue/old gasket material/dirt/smegma/etc.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Lastly with the water pump not leaking (at least not yet, til the thermostat gets sorted) i am assuming I can drain the coolant and disconnect/reconnect the thermostat without the pain of removing the airbox, serpentine belt, supporting the engine, etc...alll the pain that goes with installing the water pump..easy right!...
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Suggestion · Original poster
Lastly with the water pump not leaking (at least not yet, til the thermostat gets sorted) i am assuming I can drain the coolant and disconnect/reconnect the thermostat without the pain of removing the airbox, serpentine belt, supporting the engine, etc...alll the pain that goes with installing the water pump..easy right!...
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Suggestion · Original poster
Also i was thinking about disconnecting the hard coolant pipe that is exactly in the way of the top two thermostat bolts...i know to remove the bolts that mount the to block but even so (with my limited sockets!
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Suggestion · Original poster
Quick question, when replacing the water pump on my 03 996, i installed the thermostat first...then took it back out, got the water pump in and put the thermostat back in a second time using the same metal gasket...pretty sure this is what NOT to do and long story short, i have a leak so i need to do this again...question, can I/should I use RTV sealant or bite the bullet and order a new gasket and wait the 3 days for delivery?
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11 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Hi all,
Quick question, when replacing the water pump on my 03 996, i installed the thermostat first...then took it back out, got the water pump in and put the thermostat back in a second time using the same metal gasket...pretty sure this is what NOT to do and long story short, i have a leak so i need to do this again...question, can I/should I use RTV sealant or bite the bullet and order a new gasket and wait the 3 days for delivery? Is there any benefit of using a sealant with the metal gasket...Thanks!
Ya, usually once a single layer coated metal gasket crushes down its ridge to seal, thats its 1 time use.
But, if ya want to try and use some copper spray coat gasket sealer/maker, probably will seal right up. Just clean both/all surfaces spotless and wipe down with some brake clean. Then hang up the used gasket by one of its bolt holes and liberally spray both sides. Let it tack up for 10 minutes or so, then install like usual. Good chance it will seal up fine...
Or get a new $3 t-stat gasket vs a can of copper spray gasket for $10... Guess you can use the spay gasket many times over and its a great way to install many new gaskets also....
jmo
Thanks, i'll order a couple of these thermostats just in case..i did have a really hard time cleaning the surface as well, you could see the 2 tiny 'track' marks where the old gasket was..brake cleaner as scuff pad helped but it was still visible. I'll look into the copper spray as well.
You can also use form-a-gasket as well. I've used that on the water pump, exhaust manifolds, etc. I just put a small amount on each side of the gasket and bolt it up. Haven't had any issues so far!
I have a rack that has cut up metal coat hangers bent into hooks that I hang gaskets on. Makes it easy to spray both sides and let it tack up ready for a leak free install....
Bottom line, all sealing surfaces must be spotless clean with no oil/grease/residue/old gasket material/dirt/smegma/etc. Then wipe them down with brake clean for a leak free seal....
Use gasket scraper, razor blade, scotch brite pad, flat stone, glass bead cabinet, etc, or a combination of all the above, etc. but get the surfaces spotless clean if you want a leak free engine for its life.... then you got the fasteners/threads that need to be cleaned to the same standards, lubed/never seized/locktite'd(whatever is appropriate for particular fastner) and torqued till they just start to stretch .
Its a lot of work/attention to detail to get a good sealing leak free engine.
As stated above, use a scotchbrite pad to make sure the mating surface on the engine is completely smooth. Also make sure that you tighten the bolts in a cross cross pattern.
Thanks for the replies...the car will sit until the new gasket and copper spray come in...I'll pay attention to cleaning the surfaces. I did find the water pump surface cleaned up nicely, only the thermostat surface is being stubborn....
Also i was thinking about disconnecting the hard coolant pipe that is exactly in the way of the top two thermostat bolts...i know to remove the bolts that mount the to block but even so (with my limited sockets! and chubby meat hooks) it is a pain to work around this pipe...not too mention the challenge getting my torque wrench on these bolts.
So, other than the risk of piercing a hose or breaking a clamp is there a reason not to remove this pipe to ensure access and correct torque specs particular to the top two bolts?? The pipe transitions to a rubber hose that is easy to get to...
Lastly with the water pump not leaking (at least not yet, til the thermostat gets sorted) i am assuming I can drain the coolant and disconnect/reconnect the thermostat without the pain of removing the airbox, serpentine belt, supporting the engine, etc...alll the pain that goes with installing the water pump..easy right!...
thanks again, i really appreciate all the replies
hard pipe
There is a bracket that bolts to the block about midway down on the black hard pipe. Remove the bolt and the black hard hose (pipe) is easy to move. Sounds like your approach is sound.
