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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH1999 996 Tiptronic Read Diff Leak
Reported or suspected cause
seal
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
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Reported cause · Original poster
As 'Bell' said above, the problem was the seal for the output flange.
Leading evidence: 'seal' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'seal' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check leaks' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
8) Here we used the air hammer to loosen the axle from the rotor assembly but this may not have been necessary it just gave us more play to work with when trying to move the axle out of the way.
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Suggestion · Original poster
14) Take her for a spin, park your baby, put some cardboard under her belly and check for leaks.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I filled it with the .9l required (right at .9 it started coming out of the fill hole) and took her for a spin.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
8) Here we used the air hammer to loosen the axle from the rotor assembly but this may not have been necessary it just gave us more play to work with when trying to move the axle out of the way.
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Pelican Parts: 1 discussions
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I have a 1999 996 Tiptronic. I recently noticed some oil on the ground (very light drip) and I determined it was coming from the diff. I pulled the drivers rear wheel and siphoned the fluid out, there was approx .5l that came out. I filled it with the .9l required (right at .9 it started coming out of the fill hole) and took her for a spin.
When I parked, it was dripping more than ever. It looks like it is coming from around the axle goes into the diff, but I can't be 100% sure.
Questions:
1) is it possible that I didn't get all of the old out, and there is overflow?
2) If not #1 above, what are my options? I did not see a diy on diff work for a Tiptroinc.
As always, responses are very much appreciated!
Thanks!
Standard fill procedure is how you did it....
there is a seal for the output flange for the axles, fairly easy to change.....there is also a big o ring around the diff cover......that's a little more involved......
Thanks Bell. From your experience, what would you say goes bad most often? When I pulled the wheel a second time, I noticed oil pooling on the fins below the axle not above which lead me to think it is that 'boot' area. I will search the forums for axle output flange and see what I come up with. Thanks for the lead!
As 'Bell' said above, the problem was the seal for the output flange. I would say that changing this was a 'moderate' job. The seal was about 40 dollars. Time about 2hrs. Key tools were
1) ball head hex wrenches to remove the axle from the diff,
2) 32mm socket to remove the axle bolt (may not be necessary)
3) Air hammer to free the axle shaft after it was separated from the diff (may not have needed this)
4) Impact wrenches (just to speed things up)
5) A seal setting tool
6) New seal W0133-1934070
Unfortunately I did not take pictures so these steps may not be exact but will get you there.
1) Remove the drivers rear wheel.
2) Using the ball head hex wrenches remove the hex bolts holding the axle to the diff (#20 in suspension diagrams)
3) You will now be able to slide the axle away from the diff. It is a tight space. We found that moving it to the lower left gave the most space
4) Now you can see the assembly behind the axle this is held in place by a single allen bolt
5) Remove the allen bolt.
6) It is likely you will not be able to pull the plate because the axle is in the way.
7) Here we had to remove the 2 upper control arm bolts (#10 in control arm diagams). This allowed us to lower rear assembly without removing it.
8) Here we used the air hammer to loosen the axle from the rotor assembly but this may not have been necessary it just gave us more play to work with when trying to move the axle out of the way. The expectation is that this should not affect alignment since capser and camber are on the lowery control arms, but we will see.
9) With the axle positioned out of the way, remove the plate from the diff
10) You will see a seal in the diff, you will need to pop this out. It is held in by a tension spring around the inner seal
11) Place the new seal and using a seal tool or other, put it in place and make sure the inner spring has engaged to seat it. (it may be worth buying 2 seals incase you pop the spring on the first)
12) Once in place reverse steps from above
13) Fill diff fluid
14) Take her for a spin, park your baby, put some cardboard under her belly and check for leaks.
Really the most difficult parts were
1) Since the wheel assembly was not removed, the axel could not be removed so finding space to offset it to remove the diff plate
2) Seating the seal – Just due to being over cautious.
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