Rusty bolts - again...

Hi, Looking for some advice. Ive read all the threads about rusty exhaust bolts etc, but I wanted to ask if people think these are likely to be a pig to get out, and also if I should try now before they get really bad... The reason for removing the bolts is so I can replace those broken exhaust straps (and I would like to replace the bolts anyway, which I have already sprayed with penetrating oil) The bolts holding manifold to head are awful... I won't be tackling those! (photos upside-down for some reason - sorry!) Thanks for any advice. Todd.

Going by the photos they don't look too bad. Any exposed stud seems to be solid with good threads remaining. For the nuts which look heavily corroded you could use a smaller size socket (access depending) or just go in with a nut splitter. In the last picture I assume it is the pipe you are worried about? It looks like it could give you some trouble. I'd try (gently) with a flare ring spanner or maybe some pipe grips. You may have to cut the tube flush and get a socket on it which would mean renewing the pipe but with the look of that connection you could be doing that anyway. Not done the job myself it's just what I'd be thinking while I was on my back looking at it! Good luck!

They look OK to me but I would still be using some heat on the nuts before I had a go.

Hi Sooner is better than later if they will come undone. Heat is your friend with these for sure. It could end up being tough but it is doable for sure. Good decision to leave the manifold studs alone. Berni

They don't look bad at all to me but for the sake of £20 I'd grab yourself some Irwin Bolt Grips before you start and maybe some heat but I reckon you could get away without heat going by the pics. Oh and use actual penetrating oil not WD - it's not the same.

Having just done this very task (Turbo rebuild and exhaust change) yours actually look in good condition! Mine were all so corroded they basically resembled rivets (domed). Some of the bolts came off with the irwin extractors, the rest just got chiselled off with sheer brute force, luckily due to the lack of actual metal left they didnt take too many hits to come off. I also had an issue with the oil supply and return lines, only one actually moved but in true corroded line fashion it started to rotate the pipe too, so it would only be a matter of time till it destroyed the pipe. I ended up cutting the pipes and then tapping a socket over the fitting to get it out. Then used AN fittings to rejoin as the pipes themselves were totally fine. Have a look at my build thread (in my sig) if you want to see pics etc.

Thanks for the replies. Ok, Irwin bolt grips - will pick up a set. What type of blow torch should I use? Any special precautions knowing Im working around oily bits? This is all so I can remove the exhaust and replace those broken straps. I assume the only thing holding the exhaust on how is those bolts? So Im thinking I need to :- 1. support exhaust 2. soak bolts in penetrating fluid (not WD40) 3. heat up with torch (how long / hot ?) 4. quickly try to undo ? I also have the freeze-spray and a few nut splitters. Would it be safer/easier to try a nut splitter on them? I noticed one of the studs has no nut and seems pretty corroded. Is it possible to remove the studs and replace with new ? Thanks again for all your help Todd.

I used to just use a butane torch for years which warmed stuff up, usually enough to get things undone but a couple of years ago I bought a MAP gas torch and it is really worth the upgrade, it gets things much hotter (not cherry red) and quicker which also stops the expansion of the parts you are trying to remove the nut/bolt from.

As above - buy a Rothenberger, worth every penny! https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-super-fire-torch-map-pro-gas-cylinder/92347

One recommendation from me, having just replaced my full exhaust, with mufflers and back box delete. Any nuts that are bolt through (I.e. not studs into heads or similar), I used a Dremel with a tiny metal cutter to cut off both sides, then knock through with a centre punch. That worked on all mine that were corroded. I do have a flexible extension on my Dremel which you'll need for hard to access nuts/bolts. Also a set of tie rod end remover's are good tools to have and use too.

Thanks Alex - Rothenberger, gotcha. Ross - looking at your thread I just hope I don't walk the same path! Im planning on just removing the exhaust but I guess you never know! Just to check - is there really _nothing_ holding the exhaust on apart from the cat-to-turbo bolts? and what holds the turbo on? bolts to the manifold? ... so is all this weight hanging on the (very) rusty manifold-to-head bolts ? Thanks guys! Im now building up the motivation to start.... Todd.

Wouldnt wish it upon anyone mate! The turbo has a support bracket which is bolted to the head. The exhaust is held up by the straps that loop round a bracket thats bolted to the engine cradle.

Getting there. I can happily report that all 7 (yes 7 since one was already missing) nuts have moved and started to undo. Thanks everyone for the solid advice. I couldn't have done it without you I took my time, repeatedly sprayed with penetrating oil, hit with hammer, heated up until red and used nut extractors. At no point did I actually need to use any real muscle... just some constant force, and as soon as one would start to turn I would rock it back and forth (applying penetrating oil each time) until it became loose. Now just the actual task of removing all nuts and exhaust. There is one stud (the 8th) that has deteriorated beyond use, so I will need to use bolt extractor to remove it. I'm doing all this to replace the original exhaust straps, which appear to have long since snapped, and to replace the rusty nuts before its too late. Replacing all nuts with copper ones. Thanks again everyone! Todd.

Ok, maybe spoke too soon. Exhaust soon, great. But one of the studs is damaged and needs extracting. I applied some heat to the stud but wondered if Im ok to apply heat to the flange instead? if so, how much ? I don't want to risk warping it... Also, I bought a replacement stud and it sees to have a standard thread and winds in as normal.... I assume the stud Im extracting is the same? ie, rotate counter-clockwise to remove? I put a fair amount of torque on it and it didn't budge so now Im doubting myself ... (the tin foil in the photo is to avoid melting the coil packs) Thanks! Todd.

First off, that stud is on the hotside of the turbo, which can reach well over 500*C, and is a solid chunk of metal, so don't worry about warping the flange through heating with a blow torch, you're very unlikely to get anywhere near hot enough. It also screws in and out just like a bolt would (you can actually replace it with a bolt, if you like). Have you tried PB Blaster - this is a penetrating oil that can dissolve and free the rust that is holding the stud in? Soak the nut in it with a good spray every half hour for a couple of hours and then leave at least overnight. The more/longer you can soak it the better. You can then also try to use a physical shock to break the seizing, by essentially getting it gripped in a good vice and then whacking the stud hard with a hammer a couple of times - be careful to hit the stud straight on and not bend it. After that, I'd keep it in the vice, try to get as long a handle spanner on it as possible, seat the spanner on the middle of the bolt (the flat bit) move the spanner to take up any slack in the turn and then hit the very end of the spanner with the hammer hard a few times first in the direction of tightening, then in the direction of untightening - you're trying to give it a short, sharp shock of instant torque to try to break the seizing. If none of that works, take it to your local independent garage and see if they can get it out. :thumb: