Driverside window

This morning my drivers side window will not go up or down although I can hear the motor working when the switch is pressed. I have been told that the cables have snapped and I need a new regulator and if so is it a DIY job or one for the garage.

Depends on how handy you are. It involves removing the door card and film, unclamp and remove window, replace the regulator assembly, and put it all back together. The part is £107+VAT. Probably take a professional 1.5-2.0 hours.

Removing / replacing door trim = Easy Removing & reinstalling regulator = Mild (easy yet time consuming) Setting the glass to go up and down properley = Difficult The job as a whole if never done before could take all day and the reason for that is the setting of angles of the glass. The pressure against the seals (think they call this 'rake') is easy but its the rotational angle. What you will see is with the door shut there is an approx 10 - 12mm gap between the door and quarter glass, if the rotation of the glass is slightly out when you open the door the micro-switch drops the glass by a few mm to clear the upper door seal. It is this drop that causes the issue. I have known the glass to tilt and even get stuck under the quarter glass or more common, open ok but slap the quarter glass when closing the door due to overlapping. Personally, if you have some mechanical nonse about you go for it, you may suss it 100% or be lucky and get it right first time but then worst comes to worst you only need Indy to set the angle of the glass. USEFUL TIP: You may save £££s here, do you know what I mean by electrical connector blocks? They are for household use, usually White or clear plastic covered brass joiners on a strip of say 10, you cut one off and can use it to join 13amp wiring etc. They use the small flat end screwdriver to clamp down the wire in at each end??? Hopefully you know what I mean. Get one of them (12p at B&Q), cut one off and then cut all the plastic off so you just have the remaining brass thing with a screw at either end. Heres the good bit: tidy the ends of the snapped cable, then repair using the connector. You may need to position the joiner so it does not get trapped anywhere. Easy to do with regulator out on the bench. Did this on my Golf and saved £130 :thumb:

Exactly the same thing happened to my driver side window yesterday. After doing some reading and searching it seems that the hot weather might have caused it. There is a rubber strip inside the top of the door which rubs on the glass (below the outside strip you can see) and in hot weather can put extra strain by making the glass harder to go up and down on the cables and hence they can snap. Was it making a squealing noise before it broke?

Thanks guys for your advice.I have booked the car in on Tuesday to have it repaired by the experts.

My drivers window has recently turn the weather strip over Is there a lube that I can apply I don't fancy a broken cable

Just had my nearside regulator replaced at Paragon. One of the fiddly bits is the rubber seal inside the door-trim - get that wrong and it will allow water into the door void. If that happens then the cables holding the window & winder corrode. It sounds like a job thats very easy to get wrong.

Can I rekindle this thread and ask for advice. My symptoms: - drivers side window squeaks very loudly when lowered, but not when raised. This makes me wonder if it is the regulator or just some rubber that needs greasing? - it also takes c.1s longer to lower or raise the drivers side window compared to the passenger side one. This makes me wonder if the motor is okay - the linkage thingy (regulator?) was replaced by OPC Hatfield 2years and 13 days ago (hence parts warranty expired I think). Last time it snapped it struggled for only a few weeks, then snapped. This time its been struggling for 6 weeks but hasnt snapped yet - again making me wonder if its the regulator. Anyone else had this squeaking/slow window and got the solution? It does sound like the regulator, but maybe not definitely? In some ways I wish the cable would snap to confirm it! Is there any way I can determine if its the regulator or the motor or seals that need lubrication, without taking the door to bits? Or do anything to the seals as a first step? Thanks for any advice, Josh

I am confident it will be down to a combination of adjustments required and the hotter weather making the rubbers sticky. Your window sounds as if it could be slightly twisted in a rotational sense within the channels. Regulator adjustments are by no means easy, the slightest adjustment can make the glass slap against the 1/4 glass so beware. Try cleaning your windows with Autoglym glass cleaner or similar.

Thanks Lloyd - will give the whole area a damn good clean and see if that helps. if it is just adjustment (ie a 2yr old regulator shouldnt fail), is it easy to adjust, or does the door card need to come off for that as well?

Also check the warranty - Paragon told me that all parts had a THREE year warranty, not two.