What to look out for when buying a 996

Hello everyone, I am going to be looking for an early model 996 next week and I want to know what to look out for when I got check them out. I was thinking about spending under $30k and looks like my options are 99-00 996. I have heared that the RMS goes bad and is that something where I can look under the car to see if its leaking? What are some other problems and questions I should ask for?

get a PrePurchaseInspection done by a Porsche dealership... that is the starting point..

Make sure the engine is in the back. Also, if no taco, it ain't cool.

RMS is not a big deal............... I'd be more concerned about paint work and collision damage. Also, good compression on engine. If you are going to be searching out a nice example, get ready to pay for it. The cheap ones are cheap for a reason.

I am in seeking the same info....I understand the RMS may leak, but what is the deal with engine failures....is there any sign to look for, and what exactly fails? Also, are there any "typical" issues or items that commonly break on these models? There seems to be quite a few cars in the $26-30K range with mileage ranging from 45-90K. On e-bay there's probably 7.....are they all junk or is it because it's the 3.4 that no one wants them? Some look really nice and some look plain depending on options.

Buy "Porsche 911 Buyers Guide" in paperback by Randy Leffingwell. It's very thorough. Expect that it takes patience to buy the right 996 at the right price. It's not a 2-week process. Prepare to think you've found the "one" a couple times and then have it fail PPI. Don't be impatient. The cost savings and joy of ownership is worth the homework and the wait.

The book only covers up to MY01 is that correct?

EXACTLY, you are shopping worn out cars. Ebay is the stomping ground for stuff people can't retail or don't want. The same goes for auctions. Find a nice example from an enthusiest or dealer.

I think your pickings will be slim for a good car under $30k. Before you put your money down get an inspection by a mechnic familiar with 996's. Cars that are cheaper than the norm are usually priced that way for a reason. Good luck.

not true

Thanks for the input everyone...I do believe that with the right knowledge, I can score a 996 for a little under 30k. I have heard that some cars needed to replace the engine at less than 100k miles while I heard numerous other people that saids their 996 last over 120k. What are some of the common problems found in 996?

Car's are like people...you can tell which ones were loved. I'm close to hitting 100K miles and it's running great....always properly warmed up, serviced, and most importantly driven....I would buy one that was driven on a regular basis as opposed to a garage queen.

I would sure like to see your list of credentials afforming your value judgement of what I ASSume you are calling ALL cars on eBay. I have bought and sold MANY cars on eBay ID: bernocco and have a perfect record - go check - with only ONE bad purchase! OH BTW, IT WAS FROM A DEALER IN FLORIDA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You need to keep your pitiful thoughts to yourself and stop steering honest people into your gutter mind way of thinking. Take a hike, eric

Ebay is an avenue for scammers and con artists. It is also an avenue for folks like me to shop for used Porsche parts nationwide with photos and honest people. As always -- "buyer beware." Do your homework, know what you want, buy from sellers with favorable ratings. I have only been scammed once. (a vintage wristwatch. no shipping. no email response.) I have bought a Miata, a 993, a Jaguar Vanden Plas, a Honda Odyssey, and numerous other items. I have sold stuff too. I love ebay and I search for porsche items everyday. I maintain my cars well and when it's time to sell -- off to Ebay they go!

My specs for shopping right now (I'm searching for a good 02/03): - Be aware of cars that have too low or too high mileage - Don't buy anything from the SE states - Don't buy any cars that have seen multiple states or more than two owners. One is prefered. - Don't buy a car that has no option codes sticker under the hood - Don't buy a car that does not have complete service records showing proper maintenance (oil changes on time, etc) - Don't buy a car from someone who doesn't know their car or Porsches in general. - Get a full PPI done. This is my list of cobbled together request that most good PPIs would cover from what I gather. By no means a full list, just things I personally make sure they cover: - check every panel with a paint gauge - RMS - accident on body - compression test - leakdown test - emissions test - type1 and type2 overrevs, durametric test - RMS - coolant tank cracked? oil/coolant mixing?

I've bought and sold from there too and almost always it's described differently from the real deal. Ebay has it's purpose, yes, you can find good cars there, however, whether you want to acknowledge or not, ebay has become so well known it's full of scammers and predators. If you don't think so, you're a dumbass and put your head back in the sand. Just my opinion! I still shop ebay too, it's buyer beware and for someone not knowing Porshes, it's a risk that's not necessary. For a seasoned Porsche buyer, different story, you know what to look for and what to expect.

As far as a good PPI goes: 1) how much do they usually cost? I'd imagine it would be a good 2-3hrs labor at $90+/hr so in the $180-270+ range. also, when you take a car for a PPI, how do you ask the seller, whether it's a dealer or private party: do you say "Can I borrow the car for a day to take it for a PPI?" or "Can we take it in for a PPI before I make my decision?" and finally.... has anyone had an experience of going long distance to find a P-car and then got the PPI done? and even worse, gone the distance only to find it failed the PPI.... Pretty much, what's the average you guys spent as well as the time invested b4 you found the perfect P-car for you??? I know that finding the right one is worth 100x just jumping on the "best deal", especially since a bad one will cost much more in the long run than one that has passed a thorough PPI.

To put al this in perspective, isnt a complete new 996 crate engine like $10k? Not that you want to have to spend that, but may just be worth a gamble on some of the cheaper 996s, assuming that paint, body, etc. is all straight. Maybe the existing engine will cause problems, maybe it wont...there may be more than $10k in discount out there on a few cars, so could be worth it.

There can be far more things wrong with a car than an engine. Things like transmission problems, major accident cover up, flood damage, etc could be even more costly than a new engine and a good PPI should find most of those.

Do your homework, check the feedback and you can find not only great deals on ebay but also a lot of great people. I bought three cars on ebay all sight unseen and they were all great cars and I ended up selling two of them back on ebay. One car, probably one of my favorite cars of all time, is this minty little 1974 Alfa Romeo GTV that I bought in Texas--shipped to NYC--and took three months of my life off to drive it back to LA and the thing was as reliable as a Toyota...granted a toyota tha burned a quart of oil every 3000 miles but it never broke down.

Thanks guys! This is great information.

I sold my M3 on Ebay, not because there was anything wrong with it, but because the dealer wanted to give me about half of what is was worth.

While all the guidelines mentioned here are great, some common sense and general knowledge of the cars goes a long way in getting the right used Porsche. I am one that subscribes to buying used. I have purchased 3 Porsches sight unseen via the internet and have for the most part been very satisfied. While, I admit that paint work and/or accident history is one of the first questions I ask a yes answer does automatically rule out the car. For example, there are numerous member of Rennlist that have very well maintained cars that would be excellent purchases but have had "paintwork" done. Many enthusiast/**** retentive/obsessive compulsive (and I say this in the best light and consider myself in this category when it comes to cars) can not live with a key mark/ding/parking lot scratch, child damage, etc. that occurs and end up getting a quarter panel resprayed. In my opinion this is the type of car you want to buy because the owner cares (don�t get me wrong $20k of repairs to me = walk away). While at the same time cars with no paint work can be the most dogged out, driven hard, put away wet cars out there. You can search my past posts and you will see that I always defend the higher priced cars on the market and dog people for looking for less expensive 996�s, however, the unfortunate reality is that market has pushed many 996�s into the lower 30�s with very good cars to be had in this price range. You just have to know what you are looking for. Since many 996�s have been daily driven (which to me is a plus to a certain extent) the mileage is considered �high� by many old school Porsche fan�s and this has resulted in also lower prices for these cars. I personally am not turned away from lower prices. Especially since these cars have 60-80k miles and dealers don�t want them. As a result sellers are looking to sell for a few $k over the trade offer (which is usually way too low). The age of internet purchases have also sort of ended the multi-state car issue for me to an extent also. For example, my former 993 which is still owned by the guy I sold it to (3 years ago), started out life in Georgia, traveled to California for its 2nd owner and then to Indiana for me and is back in California. The car is fantastic and was extremely well maintained when I sold it. Ironically it was considered higher miles when I sold it with 55k+ and now has something like 75k+ but it has not had the SAI problem. I have always thought that are regularly driven are less of a chance of being a maintenance nightmare. The other thing is that the early 996�s are starting to get older. Even low mileage cars are going to start to require some maintenance of rubber seals, filters, etc. just from age. Look for cars that have had all the scheduled and/or preventive maintenance done. It is not uncommon to see a lot of cars around the big maintenance intervals for sale because the owners have decided they didn�t want to send the $$. This is especially true of the 99-01 cars in the 65-70k range. Don�t forget to check brake pad and tire wear. A $29k 996 can suddenly become a $33.5k car if it needs the 60k service, brakes and tires.

yea that's what dealers are known for... granted their #1 priority is to make a buck, it seems more and more that it's to screw the customer whether it's in off the wall purchase price, low-ball on a trade-in, or my all-time favorite... shotty service that results in more repairs and more $$$ and oh yea, not sure if he cares 'bout M3's considering his username is "M3killa" and finally... can someone plz answer my previous question: how much did you spend on a PPI b4 you bought your 996? how many 996's did you have a PPI performed on b4 you found the right one? and finally, have any of you gone through the process of locating a 996 across the country, traveled there, had a PPI done, only to find out it wasn't the right one for you? Personally, although I know I can find a good amt of 996's in the Chicagoland area, I'd imagine I could find one w/ less under-body/paint issues in the SW region... obviously the SE is a bad spot since there's a lot of "shady" ppl in these states, I know from experience since that's where most of our shady business clients come from

A good PPI is going to run you $300-$450. Somewhat dependent on the location and items done (i.e. some things like leak down and/or compression test are more expensive - which I have not had done on the cars I have purchased). Of the cars I have purchased I have only had to do 1 PPI. I personally like to look for private party sales and do lots of talking with the owner, then decide whether to get a PPI done. I usually then negotiate a fair price subject to a satisfatory PPI. In one instance the PPI found a couple of issues (leaking valve cover gasket and leaking strut), which I then negotiated the price down on the car and/or had the issue fixed by the mechanic/shop that I selected for the PPI.

Have you tried Luxury Motors they are in Chicago area. They buy their cars from all over the US I bought mine from them it was a Florida car never titled in Chicago. I had a PPI done and bought it on the spot. I have purchased 6 cars from them in the last 4 years. Get a CARFAX that will tell you where the car is from it is cheap. Then if you find one from Cali, Florida or wherever you are looking for one. Hope this helps...

I located my car on cars.com. I searched the click-and-clack site for nearby Porsche mechanics. After feeling out the mechanic, I asked the seller to make an appointment at his convenience (and my cost), and would come and see the car if the inspection went ok. Once I got the report, I took a three hour train ride to see the car, and negotiate a price. Put down $500.00 to hold the car, and came back by train four days later. The car looked good, drove well, and seemed well taken care of. Records were not so great - but I fell in love. Your insticts will usually tell you when to stay away - just hope that your emotions don't trump them. For those who have read the recent New Owner thread, I got a CEL about a week later, and ended up having to replace a cam tensioner ($800 just for the part, not to mention dropping engine etc.) While I was in there, I had a lot of deferred maintenance performed, new plugs, plug tubes and other seals and gaskets, plus clutch, flywheel and RMS. While I ended up with a new engine (see thread), the other repairs were not unexpected (except for tensioner and flywheel), and not unusual for a high mileage car. If you expect that you have to put $2k to $5k into a car that hasn't had the clutch or all its major service done, then you'll be happy. In my own experience, bargains are a bargain for a reason; pay more and you'll get a nicer car. Finally, I recommend looking into some of the aftermarked warranties, some of which are available with good coverage for about $3K. Stefan

please don't tell me you're talking about Downer's Grove Bentley, fka "Luxury Motors".... then again if you had a good experience it's possible that they're not the swindlers me and my buddies always thought they were, only ppl I knew of that bought from there both bought an X300 Jaguar and both had major problems. I just remember going there as a teen when it used to be just a bunch of Benzs, Porsches, and BMWs and doing the joy-ride/test-drive on an E36 M3 then they went all out and now the "cheapest" car you can find there is a 996TT but again, might be a moot point if we're not talkin 'bout the same dealership, the one I'm talkin 'bout is off of Ogden Ave in Downers Grove. Back to the PPI response.... if you pay $300-450 for a PPI and find out that it needs something done, is it fair to negotiate the cost of the PPI into the price of the car as well???

Yes that is them. But to answer your question. They buy cars at auctions all over the US and all they do is wash and wax the cars that is it they do not inspect them or fix anything wrong that is why their prices are always low. So if you do not get a car inspected and drive it for a few days before you buy it you will get stung. It does not matter where you get the car. As for Jaguars you must have them inspected and overly well as alot of people do not seem to take care of them. I have owned 4 with no major problems but I always took them for a few days to make sure before I worked out a deal. I hope this helps.. And yes I would work the PPI into the deal if you can. Remember every dealer has diffrent rules.

If I was the Seller I tell you no. My reasoning...if you found nothing wrong with the car with the PPI then you wouldn't be renegotiating the price for the cost of the PPI. To me the PPI is the cost of doing business. Of course you could always try to negotiate that up front.

I'm selling my '00 C2 Arctic Silver Cab w/ hardtop for $34,999 w/ 60K miles. Check out my classified ad i just posted today. PPI's welcome.

It�s not just the sellers you have to watch out for on ebay. I sold my last Porsche on ebay last year. The day before the transaction I thought it was strange when the buyer told me he did not want to go to the DMV to transfer the vehicle registration. He arrived with his cousin who owned some used car dealership. After they checked out the car and gave me the $, they asked if I would leave the registration sticker on the window. Of course the answer was no. If it was yes the next question was about the plates. Their plan was to put on some temporary plates and drive the car into Canada. The fake plates were printed cardboard that they stated were supposedly used by dealerships. Their next stop was the local copy shop in my town to get the cardboard plates laminated to look more real. Surprisingly enough they made it all the way to Canada, about 400 miles, but unfortunately that where their luck ran out. I got a call later that night form the Canadian border patrol asking a lot of questions about the transaction. I told them I sold the car, but did not want to provide any other information � and then potentially become a witness for the prosecution. The border patrol official then got upset and started threatening me. Being a US citizen I figured they really had no authority. I asked several times �is there any reason I have to answer your questions�, which he did not answer. Then the official stated by not answering his questions I have given them all the information they needed. So I stated, does this mean the call is over? This really pissed him off. He went off claiming he was going to contact the US authorities and I should expect to hear from them. Still waiting for this, it�s been almost a year. I am not worried about this since I did nothing wrong, but next time you can guarantee I will not use ebay and will insist on transferring the registration at the DMV.

996 Jammy- BEAUTIFUL 996 C2 cab!!!! really po'd that it's for sale now, doubt it'll last until late Fall/early Winter when i'm back home and ready to buy good luck either way!!! I know I wouldn't mind drivin that bad boy back from NYC, beats the last trip I made from NYC to Chicago which was in an '88 Accord that I bought from a friend(who also drove me there, so no money spent from Chicago to NYC) for $260 as my "beater"

My own research on the rear main seal issue prior to my 996 purchase in early '05 led me to believe that the problem is overwhelmingly prominent. Meaning, you should probably assume that the car you're looking at has a leaking RMS! All of the Porsche specialists I spoke with said they had never seen a car lose enough oil to cause an issue and most all of the seals that are replaced, leak again. I learned that a larger seal, I believe that from the Cayenne, is also used with no better long term results. I can tell you that my seal leaks, I have NEVER had an oil spot as a result, even after long term storage, and I have accepted that this issue is just part of being a 996 owner. To me, it's not an issue, just an insignificant fact. In addition to what I would consider some fine advice from our fellow members, I might add that the climate control center has a habit of crapping out. I believe this is most prominent on 99 - 01's, but I'm not positive that 02 - 04's have been spared this fate. It's an expensive repair, about $800, I believe. Evidence of eminent failure are dark spots starting to creep inward from the perimeter of the temperature display. You can easily find out if the one you're looking at has been replaced during your PPI, this is true of anything that's been done by any Porsche dealer during the life of the vehicle. Being patient and REALLY looking at your prospect, sans your rose colored glasses, is the best advice you've received here, IMHO.

This is very sobering. Oil leaks drive me absolutely batty, and I just can't accept a car that leaks anything--especially a high end sports car like a Porsche. My old Mazda Rx7 leaked oil from any number of places from oil pan to the turbos. My current BMW does not leak anything--but it had its share of electrical gremlins--climate control unit malfunction (from a faulty capacitor), stereo display dimming (from a faulty resistor), heated seat pan that's failed. As immature as the forum members are in the BimmerForums community, they are quite resourceful in fixing things themselves, and that info has saved me $$ at the dealer. It's disappointing to know that oil leaks are fact of life with owning a Porsche.

This is a gross exaggeration for modern Porsches. I have owned modern Porsches (Boxster, 993 and 996) for 8 years now. I have had one oil leak (RMS on a car I purchased that way btw). It was fixed under warranty and has not reappeared (42k miles and 3 years and counting). The fact of the matter is as cars age the seals and gaskets start to wear out and sometimes repairs are necessary. Anecdotal of course, but of the people I know who have Porsches that have had oil leaks they are usually on cars that are garage queens/toys and not driven regularly. The guys I talk with that have daily driven P-cars don�t have many oil leak problems. I have also owned BMW�s for 8 years and I have spent over $2000 fixing oil leaks on the current one (110k+ miles) but the car looks new and still has a lot of life in it so I figured the $$ was well spent as maintenance. But I don�t consider oil leaks a fact of life with BMW�s either.

What's the problem with SE states... corrosion?

I understand but oil leaks are not a frequent complaint from fellow BMW owners.

Only oil leak we have is on the 1980 Caddy. Never a drop from either Porsche.

This is the first post that I have ever read where someone said good things about Luxury Motors. I know that they are being sued for misrepresenting their cars, but I'm not certain if the case has gone to trial yet.

The problem with SE states is there could be a likelihood of getting a hurricane Katrina car.

What's wrong with SE cars?

This is what I look for when buying a P-car.... and yes that is in the place where dreams are made: ZUFFENHAUSEN, GERMANY!!!!(aka lil' suburb of Stuttgart and official home of PORSCHE )

I only can recommend you to read my 996 Buyer's guide .Although it's in spanish there's a lot of graphic information, that I included to understand better some aspects of the car. I know it's a bit difficult for you english spoken guys, but I hope It would help you. I wrote it for everybody, it's free, and I gave it to Loren (Renntech.org) to be downloaded. Here are the links: In our spanish forum: http://soloporsche.com/showthread.php?t=1723 In Renntech.org : It's a PDF file with 3 different resolution quality and It's called "Guia996" http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...ads&showcat=37

lol, don't you speak english too? just playin, but I guess it'll be a good way for me to brush up on the ol' Spanish, not that I didn't get enough practice a few weeks ago when I was in Spain(probably moreso than the German practice I'm supposed to get EVERYDAY in Vienna) I'm sure you'll like this pic, being from Madrid....

Nice pic It's in "Puerta del Sol" ... hahaha we can translate more or less as Sun's Gateway. You are in front of "El Oso y el Madro�o" . It's a typical autochthonous tree, and one of the bears who lived here some centurys ago. In this important place we hace the Zero Kilometre point. All the roads in Spain have their first meassure point , here in Puerta del Sol

cool, all I knew is that it was the symbol of Madrid, I got a keychain last time I was there but the symbol fell off so I had to get another one this time.... lovely city and awesome atmosphere!!!! Only bad part is like last time I didn't get to go out... last time was 5yrs ago and I was w/ a HS tour group(even though I had just graduated) and had to abide by a curfew, this time, I was on a tight schedule and trying to fit as many cities as I could into a 2-week trip and in fact as part of a presentation I have to do for a History of German-Speaking Culture course, I had to visit El Escorial... which I of course didn't have enough time to see as well... but it's interesting since it was a Hapsburg castle, and well the Hapsburgs are pretty important to Austria, let alone the rest of Europe And back to the topic... as far as translation goes, I know first-hand as that is the basis of my studies in German and it is definitely not easy!!!! But it beats what I used to do... engineering... and it also forces me to work in my own field to become successful instead of just settling for some pointless corporate dead-end engineering job just 'cause it pays decent money coming out of school

Mine is on Ebay and is a very clean example... Check it out... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...08204839QQrdZ1

Don't buy anything from the SE states obviously the SE is a bad spot since there's a lot of "shady" ppl in these states, I know from experience since that's where most of our shady business clients come from. I live on the coast. While it�s true there was massive flooding from Hurricane Katrina the flooding was only along the coast and not all SE states. Flooding doesn�t just happen in just SE states does it? Instead of labeling SE states as states to avoid you could advise buyers to check for signs of flooding. Look for rust and corrosion in place that normally don�t get these problems i.e. under the dash, seats, and hood. Look for dried mud and grass in recessed areas and look for signs of recent carpet or upholstery work etc� And it is just plain WRONG that �obviously the SE is a bad spot� for anything above and beyond any other region. Where do you get your information to make such a blanket statement?

I thought the ppl in the SE that actually have money invest it in Vettes, Vipers, Muscle-cars, and my all-time fav the Monte Carlo Dale Earnhardt Edition... I feel ya, I work for an online pharmacy and our worst clients are from SE states as well as wonderful southern states like Kentucky and Tennessee... in fact we don't even do KY anymore 'cause of all the trouble... not to mention the FDA won't allow it anymore!

My car is now for sale. I've sold some property that I owned outright and I am getting a 2006 Carrera Coupe. 1999 Arctic Silver Carrera. No RMS. Meticulously maintained by active PCA member. Has had the typical 1999 replacements: coolant tank, seat belt receptacles, and Optima battery. Shown by me at show and shine events. Has good options that are not all common: #220 locking differential, #222 traction control, #224 active brake differential, #413 turbo look 18" wheels, recent tires, 3 spoke steering wheel. The only reason it is for sale is because I made a pile of money this year and at 61 I am feeling my own mortality. Price is $29,500 for a car that is worth 5 grand more. See my autotrader ad: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...ice=&cardist=2

at the end of the day, it's an oil lieak. not catostropic, not a big deal. If you like the car, buy it! The 3.4's and the 3.6's both have the problem and both can have failure. Get what you want and stop the worries.

Dude, your car is way underpriced!!!!! Ebay sucks.

lexpilot... thanks for putting another beautiful example in my face that I can't yet have Then again, as long as this thread keeps going, I'm sure I'll find that perfect 99-00 996 C2 w/ a few mods/options in the $28-32k range when I'm ready to buy in the Fall/Winter... after I've worked off some of the debt I'm racking up here in Vienna!!!

When I started Carrera shopping, I test drove two 2003 Carreras on the same day, both with similar mileage and both were CPO'ed. They were as different as day and night. One had a stiff shifter, the other was light and easy to shift. One had a firm clutch, the other was lighter. Even the exhaust sounded different between the two cars. I could go on listing all the differences, but you get the point. I don't know why they were so different, is it "manufacturing variance" or just previous owner use and/or abuse? Since both were CPO'd neither should have been in any accidents (I never checked the Carfax on the "bad" car). One was like driving a beefier version of my Boxster, the other was more like driving a truck. That was when I decided that I would not buy a car without driving it. Options and price are meaningless to me if it doesn't feel good. After driving a few more cars, I found one that felt great and the decision to buy was easy. I would encourage you to drive a few and if it feels right, and the PPI checks out, then you have found a car you might want to own.

exactly... buying a car sight-unseen is a very bad proposal, especially when it's a car like Porsche, where the previous owner could've either babied it too much and kept it as a garage queen, meaning the seals could be in danger due to lack of use OR it could have been driven to hell and the only way to tell would be to drive it first, obviously no way to tell in pictures how hard the clutch was dropped or the tires spun(especially if they got new tires to hide all the possible suspension/wheel bearing problems associated w/ such harsh driving!)

Lexpilot, for some reason I can't send you a PM, so I'm posting here instead. A few questions on your 911. Since I'm from Canada, I want to get as many questions answered before I took a flight down somewhere to check out the vehicle. 1) Do you have all the service history of the vehicle? 2) Was it a one owner vehicle, and do you have the carfax thing to show no collisions, salavges, etc.? 3) Were all recall/warranty items fixed, and can you get a letter from the porsche dealer stating recalls are fixed? (This is required by CDN customs to get a US car registered over here) 4) What if any real problems are on there with this vehicle...even small things, like annoying rattles, etc., just want to be fully informed before checking it out. 5) Do you have more pictures of the car, interior, etc.? Anyway that should be a decent start, thanks, -Jon

A couple more questions I forgot: 6) When was the clutch last replaced (if at all)? 7) Was the car ever raced, etc.?

I disagree with the ebay comment. Although I dislike ebay normal, the motors portion is OK; afterall, I just sold a car on ebay. Dealer maintained, like new condition, awesome price. I just wanted it to sell without hassles. Granted, the buyer was from a forum that I had also posted on.

Why not from the SE states? Is there something you know? Please share.

Jonas, email me at [email removed] or autotrader: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...ice=&cardist=2