2.7L 987.1 Boxster suspension refresh for light track duty questions

I've recently acquired a 987.1 base Boxster with some decent options ( PASM , Sport seats/wheel, 6-speed, HIDs). I bought it to replace my track prep'd M3 that I was barely driving. I'm mostly driving the car in the canyons with a few track days here and there. The car has some miles on it (98K) and some preventative maintenance items that I have already addressed include: water pump, thermostat, starter, belts, end links, and AOS . I'm planning on getting the FVD Oil pan to help solve any oil issues I may encounter. My main question at hand is for my full suspension refresh. How many of you have changed all of the suspension items? And if so where did you acquire all of the parts from? Here is my part list so far and a few comments/questions for each, GT3 LCA kit from ECS tuning - I still need to source the other front control arm bits, to complete the refresh B8 struts from Rockauto - Am I correct in not needing bump stops for the B8's? They're internal, correct? Springs - H&R or Cayman R springs ? - not sure if Cayman R springs would work on a 2.7 boxster or if it will provide any more of a drop from my PASM springs TRW Tie rod kit Front Strut mounts/bearings Rear Strut mounts Does anyone know if there is a rear low control arm kit with all of the parts? Or am I stuck sourcing them individually? Adjustable end links are they required if you're on springs? I know Porsche has a few different spring options from the factory, but do they have different end links? Here is a photo of the car after I added some black accents/decals, not bad for a $10k car! Thanks in advanced!

Before you go gonzo on your suspension, get the TPC Racing DSC Sport module. I put one on my Boxster S and it totally transformed the suspension. And this is on stock PASM shocks with 150k miles on them. I'm looking to get the Bilstein Damptronics ( B16 ) coilovers next .

I modified my complete suspension, Tarett Cup LCA's, slotted upper coilover attachment holes, Ohlins coilovers with moderate spring rates, Tarett downlinks, Tarett GT adjustable swaybars, Elephant toe links f&r with adjustable bumpsteer, Elephant rear toe locker plate, Function first engine mount insert and transaxle mounts, Front frame support and rear Pedro's Technobrace, My setup is camber -2.9 f and -2.5 r with castor at 8.4. My drop is 34 mm on drivers side and 36 on the passenger side. The difference is due to a corner balance to equalize my 200 lb weight. I took my time getting this setup together over the past 3 years. So far, no big issues with either the suspension, shifter or the motor. Brake cooling via 996 GT3 Cup f brake ducts and GT2 rear ducts banded to the Tarett LCA'S.

I know a lot of people have been praising DSC , but my hardware does need to be changed first. I managed to get it on a lift and saw that the bushing in the LCA were toast and my front suspension already makes some clunking sounds at low speeds. Did you do your toe links at the same time as your coilovers? My alignment guy said I needed adjustable rear toe arms to get the alignment back into spec. That said the car felt great at the next PCA event and I managed to win my class. Here is my current alignment : Front -1.3 camber , 7.9 Castor, -0.06 toe Rear -1.9 camber, +0.08 toe Ideally I'd like around-3 up front

I had to wait about 9 months to get the parts I wanted, Elephant toe links with adjustable bump steer, then I was able to complete the job. I would stay at your camber number until you decide to track your car. Then more camber to preserve your outside tire shoulders. I changed my camber to a higher number because the instructions from Hoosier A7's is to run at least -3.0 in the front to keep the outside shoulders happy.

Given your statement "I was barely driving. I'm mostly driving the car in the canyons with a few track days here and there." Why are you tiring to make a race car out of it ? Just address the maintenance issues of the suspension and move on. It's not your M3 track car anymore. And if you wanted another track car why get a base Boxster ? I'm Confused by your statements and actions. They don't seem to match.

I don't really see how this is becoming a race car? I figured since I'm already refreshing the suspension I might as well add some camber as it can only benefit me for my occasional track day. The oil pan only serves as insurance because I've learned the hard way, of what can happen when you starve and engine of oil in a banked corner. I primarily got a Boxster because I live in the best place to own a roadster, Southern California. I'm right next to Malibu so I'm fortunate enough to be have amazing roads 10 minutes away. What is wrong with a base Boxster as a track car? It is a momentum vehicle on track and allows me to use all of its power band in the canyons. I feel like a lot of people have become power drunk and think only high horsepower cars are worthy of being track cars. Plus given how many issues the 3.4L vehicles have, the 2.7 seemed like a better option for a more reliable package. If I were to get another track car I would opt for another M vehicle. The lack of an LSD and the ability to fully turn off traction control are two major cons for the 987 chassis.

Just seems like a lot of more hard core suspension pieces and not just rebuilding a stock suspension. I wouldn't put GT3 LCA and use -3 degree camber in what is basically a street car that I was only doing occasional track days with. That would seem to put more focus on track than street. Maybe your definition of occasional is different than mine. Oil pan certainly makes sense for this model as extra engine safety.

Relax- Since you mentioned a LSD , I recently installed a ATB LSD called Wavetrac. This changed the way I exit the corners now. It allows more throttle and the car is more settled. That would be an excellent choice for your lower HP engine. Then you can get some catted long tube headers on EBAY to satisfy your motor noise, Regarding the LCA's, I would find a vendor that does both if you really need more than -2.0 camber in the rear. The front ECS kit should do the job. Do get a set of Spyder 08 springs. They should have the correct springrate for your application and will work with the PASM . Then add a TPC DSC controller to really liven up your shocks. You will have quite a little gem for your money.

Got a new wheel and tire package, CCW C10 on Hankook RS4's. The car drives so much better on 18's unfortunately it bumps me up a class, but just barely. Got to test it out at a recent PCA event, lost out on 1st place by 0.107 against a prepared 986 S with suspension, NT01 r-comps, and a seat. Learning to drive around PSM is annoying, but is possible if you can do your braking in a straight line and not trail brake. It is easy to slide the car and overpower PSM which is nice, but I'm still annoyed that it kills all my momentum on corner exit.

Sounds like you should be doing these events with PSM off. It will kill you out of turns and when I experience it's restrictions I turn it off and adjust to driving without it. Either that or adjust your driving style so it doesn't limit your exit throttle. I would try it both ways and see what's fastest. It will vary from course to course.

I was at that event, great fun but a bit hot! I agree that turning off the PSM is the way to go for autocrossing these cars.

I always run with PSM off even in the canyons. I know that it is never fully off and will intervene if need be. But I still find it too aggressive, I know exactly where I lost the time at the event. On the last corner before the finish line I was applying throttle out of the corner and I could feel PSM intervening and not allow the vehicle to accelerate. I'm beginning to think I need a kill switch for PSM at autox events, the fastest guys in the SD club all swear by it on their 987s.

Are you sure you’re not experiencing ABD? Mine works pretty hard during an autocross run. PSM in the off position should only reactivate following ABS engagement on more than 2 wheels or a pretty severe slip angle.