The front shock on my
987.1
Cayman
needs to be replaced.
I have the option to buy used
Cayman
R front shocks but I was wondering if those would fit a
987.1
Cayman S
and if they'd be equivalent to
Cayman S
OEM or stiffer? Looking at this thread it would seem like shocks are different between the
Cayman
R and S but was looking for those confirmations:
Will Cayman R springs fit with 2006-08 OEM Cayman S...
Pretty simple and straightforward. The porsche Cayman R shocks are expensive as hell, but the R springs are relatively inexpensive... Curious if they will swap right on to a 2006...
www.planet-9.com
The car has H&R springs with stock shocks today and I already find the ride extremely stiff for the road, despite the car being 85% track at this point I still like to drive it elsewhere.
At the moment I was contemplating to replace the front shocks with Bilstein B6 which should be a bit better than stock for the track but not going towards much stiffer options, going with used Cayman R shocks would be a lot cheaper... (there is no used cayman S shocks in my area)
I have
Bilstein
B8 and H&
R springs
on mine. I don't find the ride too bad.
many have described the
Cayman
R as having a good balance performance wise. Described as
Cayman
in permanent sport mode. I haven't tried them - I'm running B6 at the moment. B6 is not really comfort oriented but I put up with it for the performance. of course YMMV.
How old are the shocks? if they're too high mileage they may not be at their best.
Shocks, springs rates and ride height are very important to the handling of the
Cayman
987. You can cobble together a lot of aftermarket stuff for cheap, but you will get cheap effects. Upgrade your suspension to Ohlin R&T coilovers. You can beat these coilovers to death and they still perform as described on the Ohlin web page. Spring rate of 400 lbs/in f and 458 lbs/in in the rear. You can drop your ride 35mm without affecting the springs or shocks. If you go for the dropped look, be prepared to add a rear adjustable toe link bar due to the toe in adjustments is not attainable without an adjustable link. Also, you will need adjustable down links to get a corner balance to work without preloading your swaybars. You have successfully reduced the weight transfer both across your car as well as f to r with this reduced ride height.
The Ohlin's have 20 clicks of rebound and compression adjustment, which actually do change the dynamics of the suspension a lot. I have used 3 clicks from stiff in f and 4 clicks in the rear on smooth tracks with good success. For the daily drives, I have used 15 clicks from stiff for both f & r to 10 clicks f and r just depending on the tire/wheel weight setup. I use all the track width I can get on my car, so the wheels are leveraged by the offset a lot. What that means is the
tires
are at the edge of the wheel well, almost hitting the top lip on compression.
For my daily drives, I use the OEM 18 inch rims with
Michelin PS4
's in 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r. This combo seems to work well, but I do get some rear tire grip/traction issues with full throttle. Most likely a 285/35/18 maybe a better choice. The total weight of the
tires
and OEM wheels seem to work best with the Ohlin rebound setting around 10 for both f and r. Lighter weight wheels and
tires
opens up the options much more to track work, canyon drives and back country bumpy roads.
@Apex1
Wait, so you're saying that you can't drop 987 (.2 in my situation) on springs without a toe link extension for a proper toe? What toe are you running front/rear? thx
