P1341 - What's Really the Problem - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Hi all: While driving in town today, the CEL popped on. It was steady, not flashing, and the code was P1341, Porsche fault code 174, camshaft adjustment bank 1 below limit value I checked the camshaft deviations and the camshaft actual positions at idle and 3000 RPMs with the engine at operating temperature. Here's what I found. Both camshaft deviations were about -2.4 degrees. Actual camshaft positions were something like -1.75 degrees at idle and 24 degrees at 3000 RPMs. It looks to me like the variocams are working just fine. Could this be something as simple as a cam position sensor going bad? Thanks

Hi all: This is a follow up. After clearing the code yesterday, I drove the car on several local trips. Today, P1341 returned. Everything looked normal at idle. Camshaft deviations were within spec and camshaft positions were normal. When spinning up the engine to 3000 RPMs, bank 1's camshaft only advanced to 8 degrees whereas bank 2 advanced to 24 degrees like yesterday. It looks like either bank 1's solenoid is failing or the entire actuator itself. It's possible although I'd think unlikely, that the crankshaft position sensor is providing bad readings. Is there a way to determine which part is failing? For example, can I activate the variocams with my Durametric. Or is there some other test that I can do? Thanks

Hi all: I'd like your help placing the following bet. Option 1: replace the bank 1 variocam solenoid for about $1500. Option 2: replace the bank 1 variocam actuator completely for about $3500. Since this 1341 problem first popped up, the CEL has gone off for several days and then come back on for several days. The on/off again cycle has happened multiple times over the last 1000 miles. The local independent looked into the problem and found that the following. Compared to the bank 2 actuator, the bank 1 actuator adjusts camshaft angle slowly. In other words, bank 2 seems to adjust instantly whereas bank 1 takes several seconds to adjust fully. The indie showed me the graph to prove this. To me, this slow reaction sounds like a dying solenoid. If I bet wrong by replacing the solenoid and and its the actuator, I'll have flushed the $1500 down the drain and have to go to option 2. If you were in my shoes, would you drop the $3500 right off the bat and go with option 2 or risk going with option 1. It's not that I can't afford the $3500. I just hate to spend $2000 that I don't have to. Thanks

https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/423-vario-cam-solenoid-swap-in-car/ failing actuator *may* leave green bits in sump. same route in to change actuator as it is solenoid, so perhaps open it up, pull solenoid and test. if ok then move on to actuator. if not, replace and button up.

So it's my turn with P1341. Bought a Duratech to diagnose it. Looks like bank 1 solenoid is on the way out. Sometimes it responds normally, advancing immediately to 23 degrees at 3000 rpms with back 2. Sometimes it is slow to react, taking several seconds to get to 23 degrees. Sometimes when it returns to idle, it remains at 23 degrees, idles like crap, and throws the CEL. So, this is the solenoid going out, correct? Why in the heck are these $600? Bank 1 is cylinders 1-3, right? I assume that's driver's side? How much of a PITA are these to replace?

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A solenoid is an electromagnetic device. Works like a plunger. It moves the plunger and exposes oil passages. The oil passages then provide oil pressure to actuate the Variocam actuator, which moves the cam. Although the solenoid could be reacting slowly. It is more likely that the oil passages are restricted. They are very small. Or some other issue. Like the green O-ring seals failing (as mentioned in post #4 this thread). If your Duratech has a live test feature you can trigger the solenoid. Take the engine cover off and engine not running. Trigger the solenoid and listen for the solenoid to click. That would at least tell you if the solenoid is responding correctly. You can also trigger the solenoid with a small battery like a nine volt. Use the search function: There should be info on replacing the solenoid.

Quotes source post: 636965

Yes, I definitely need to find a procedure to remove and test the solenoid.