New Camber, Castor and Toe setting for the Street with RE71RS.

After ordering the new model RE71RS from the TireRack and having their network tire shop install them, I felt that my old camber of -3.0 was too much for the street. So I had Cantrell MotorSports reduce the Camber to -2.5 f and change the rear to -2.4. These settings along with a castor setting of 8.4 on both sides felt very good with not much effort to move the wheel. The new toe out in front is 2 minutes each side for a total of 4. The rear is a total of 8 minutes of toe in. What I am trying to create here is setting that match up well for the Cayman to use the RE71RS as best as I could. I took the white paper from the TireRack comparing 4 extreme summer tires and kept the toe out in front to line up with the comments of vague turn in from the center line. The slight toe out gives a very fast turn in once initiated, In the rear, I reduced the toe in to a total of 8 minutes total as I have Tarett Cup Race LCA's that have solid bushings so no movement of the axle/wheels during braking or wobble from threshold braking. With these suspension settings I should be able to get my 10k miles out of these cheater race tires for the street. I use my car about 2500/yr.

I'm curious, are the side walls more/less stiff than Michelin PS2 's? When I was going to the track, I used -1.75F and -0.75R for various tracks around Denver. Turn 6 at High Planes Raceway is a double apex, off camber corner that's probably the worst offender of the tracks I've been to and I never saw any abnormal outer shoulder wear on either the front or rear tires . I don't want to start any debates about camber angles because people are different, cars are different and tracks are different. I'm more curious about "I changed to this tire and had to change XXX on my car". Please let me know your thoughts. I appreciate it. My wife and I have since retired and moved into the mountains (ie difficult to get to a track session), so I put an R spec alignment on the car (stock LCA's F/R, adjustable F/R sway bars and drop links, lowered 20mm)

Two different types of tires . Michelin PS2 are old of the old design where the side walls are soft and the tire tread is more robust. The RE71RS is very stiff side walls. The stiffest side walls i have driven, so what do you want to know differently. The grip of the RE71RS is much better than the Michelin , it's like a cheater slick. I have a set of Hoosier A7 slicks, and the Bridgestone is a little less grippy, treadwear wear rating of #200 than the Hoosier A7 Slicks with a treadwear rating of #40, but this is because of the sidewall stiffness and the type of rubber used, it works just about as well, especially the turn in factor. I am using my old camber setting of -3.0 f and -2.4 r on this report as I just changed to a new setting of -2.5 f and -2.4 r as of this week. Are you looking to purchase a new set of RE71RS's? If so they will be much more aggressive as far as grip goes. Not only grip but also turn in, braking and G loading in the corners. They also work very well in the wet.

New tires - in the near future. It's always helpful to understand how the character of the car changes with different components. I appreciate the feedback and experience.

I haven't added camber plates or LCAs to my Cayman yet but I have been building a 350Z track car. after finishing most of the work, took it to a shop for a track alignment, and All four were between -3.5 and - 4.0, so they needed adjustment. I wanted -2.5 for better tire wear since I commute to the tracks. The Cayman definitely needs camber. My first set of summer tires are wearing from stock camber. after about 6 track days. I've run several tires and haven't quite settled on a favorite yet. Conti ECS, Toyo PS and Yoko AA are similar at around 280/300 TW. I haven't tried 71s yet because they got some mediocre reviews on tread life and hot grip. I would like to try the Conti ECFs down in the 200 TW range. they are hard to find right now. TBH, I really don't want to go to more aggressive R compound 100 TW because that puts extreme wear on the steering and suspension. and for what, a couple seconds of PB? not worth it to me.

Aeneas, I completely agree with you. My goal is to learn how to drive the car. I've done some brake and suspension work only to increase my confidence at the track. I'm not a professional driver, would love to be, probably will never be so my lap times are what they are. I get out to the track, learn a lot and have some fun with friends. For what its worth, I put a R spec alignment on the car when I'm not at the track. I had the dealership do it, then came home and took the measurement with the string method. Before I head out to the track, I get out the strings and put the track spec I've used for several years. Its a piece of work, but I'm retired so who cares. My fun is the whole process. Call me silly, foolish.... but it keeps me off the streets. Enjoy.

Ha! The pro alignment I got done last month after doing a ton of suspension work was $250 and their machine was amazing. long-term, I would like to get a couple of alignment tools. I've done the string method and don't quite trust my setup with it. The tool that mounts to your wheel and gives you the caster / camber looks like a good investment for about $200. toe plates are a little more expensive but would also pay for themselves soon enough.

Why would you stay off the streets? I use my car with back country roads use to some extent. I use my race tires RE71RS on the street. I can't get much wheel spin from these newer tires though and have made an improvement in the Sprint Booster to get better rotation by the rapid action of the throttle body. I use it to get snap reactions from uphill freeway action coming onto a 8 lane road during 4:00 pm rush hour. The LSD does help out as wheel spin needs 50 more hp to be a concern. So, keep the track setup on your car unless you are using more than -3.0 camber f and -2.5 r. No need for that much camber on the street 95% of the time.

Off the streets, out of trouble. Thats all. The car/driver get plenty of street time.

I'm confused by your comment about the freeway. are you saying that at freeway speed in rush hour uphill you lose traction on your rear wheels because of too much power? I can't imagine any scenario where I'm going sideways in rush hour traffic.

No sideways activity at all, it a freeway speed limit of 55. The LSD really smooths out the torque to both rear tires . With the RE71RS's, any activity on the street is well within the safety boundary of this tire set. I have Michelin PS4 's and these RE71RS simply work much better accelerating, braking, turn in and cornering. Just the NVH is higher.