2008 Porshe Cayman 2.7: Loud squall from engine compartment, with coolant on the ground

Hello everyone. I am new to the site and to my 2008 Cayman 2.7. The other day, while driving approximately 45 mph. i suddenly got a "neighbor waking" loud squall from the engine compartment (lasted about 5 seconds). I noticed a little coolant smell, not much. I got it in the driveway and could not duplicate. There was no coolant on the ground. Today, the same thing happened, and it went away again, however the coolant smell was strong, I got a solid check engine light and when I stopped the car in the driveway, it leaked a lot of coolant on the ground. I also got some white smoke from the engine compartment. I took the engine covers off and located a leak from the right (passengers) side of the engine below the alternator. It's coming from a part I saw identified online as the" right crank case sealing cap". It was dripping from there and I saw no other leaks. Could this account for everything including the squalling? Maybe if it got belts or bearings wet? Did I mention how loud that was? It was loud! I didn't notice a power loss and it wasn't running rough. I didn't drive it long enough to overheat it either, but I'm sure it would have. Has anyone experienced this? What's under that cap? I attached a picture and you can see the leak. Where do I order a gasket if that's all it may need? It's got me fairly worried as it is a 140K mile car. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you. Ryan

Since the alternator is air-cooled - it's not from there. You've described the classic symptoms of a failed water pump. At 140,000 miles it's probably the 2nd one that's failed. I suspect if you really look around the area you'll find some coolant traveled from the water pump, possibly the pulley, and was thrown up to where you're seeing it. The water pump is right behind the pulley on the right of your photo. With the amount of coolant you described on the ground, I'd expect to see a fairly obvious trail from the water pump. You might try sticking your fingers behind the water pump pulley and see how wet it is there. The squealing noise was the bearings in the failed water pump protesting and/or the water pump chewing its way into your block due to failed bearings (not a good thing at all..) While you're replacing the water pump I'd also be inclined to do the belt-tensioners (I believe there are 2 on your engine.) Those owe you nothing at 140k miles. And of course a new belt.

Thank you very much. Yes, I know the alternator has nothing to do with it but the plate below it is definitely leaking (every screw in it (6 plus the alternator bolt), was loose for whatever reason. So, I will order a new gasket for that and I'll take your very appreciated advice and check out that water pump. I'd assume that I would need to change all three of the plastic (idler?) pulleys with the belt? Do you have a favorite place to order parts? Thanks again. Ryan

Wonder what happened that the screws loosened up.. when the belt is off - spin the alternator by hand check and see if there is any roughness. With the miles on the car - any of the bearings on the accessory drive (aka serpentine drive) might be acting up. One of the idlers is hydraulically controlled I believe - (I own a 987.2 - it only has one idler) - for that, I'd replace the entire assembly including the hydraulic part. The belt won't fall off if the hydraulic part fails (there is a spring inside the cylinder) - but the hydraulics serve the purpose of damping variations that cause flutter and vibration in the belt. That possibly could be the reason the screws all loosened up. The other idler is fixed I believe, and in that case all that's needed is the plastic pully with the bearing. As far as parts source - FCP-Euro is hard to beat and a favorite among inmates here. They have a lifetime warranty on anything they sell (even light bulbs and engine oil/filters) - meaning you only pay for the item once no matter how long you own the car. You can find them at FCPEuro.com - good people. Let us know how it goes.. and I'll move this thread into the DIY area, it really isn't a chat.. Good luck!

Can't tell much from your picture, but it appears you need a new coolant pump and as advised by Don FCP Euro works well with the replacement program. You might as well go full tilt with the tensioner, pulleys, pump and belt. You'll also need a few jugs of coolant and to make things easier a vacuum lift refill tool which requires a compressor.

When I did the 986 I found the rollers to be simple press fit sealed ball bearings, I matched them up at NAPA and just replaced them. If that remains in the design I'd do it again, it saved a lot and they performed as new.

I really appreciate the advice and I'll be posting when I get it all figured out.

Thank you very much, especially about the vacuum lift tool.

OK. I pulled the water pump off and the bearings and shaft feel fine. No slop, no sounds, smooth turning. On truth, the water pump looks fairly new. I'm going to replace it anyway, along with the leaking rt side sealing cap gasket. Still don't know where the noise came from. Still wondering if the leak from the sealing cap got the pulleys/ belt wet and caused the noise, maybe even got the bearings wet? Still listening to your advice. I wish it would've been the water pump but I'm 99% sure it wasn't. Thanks to all.

I'm not sure how the 987.1 coolant pump interfaces with block, but maybe if the pump wasn't making proper contact letting the impeller scrape the block. I would check for milling marks on the block and the same on the impeller. Seems like maybe someone forgot to tighten the pump bolts.

I assume the idlers spun smoothly and quietly? No play? It's possible there was belt slippage if a sudden load was put on something like the alternator or power-steering pump - and the belt slipped. Possible. Especially if the hydraulic cylinder on the spring-loaded idler is kaput..