Is this a clutch problem?

I have a 02' 996 C4 Cab with about 38,000 miles and I went to pass someone on the freeway tonight and a strange thing happened (no I didn't get shot at). When I rapidly depressed the accelerator in 5th gear, the revs went up, but the car didn't accelerate. There was a significant time lag before the car accelerated. I then began to wonder (WTF) so I tried this in different gears and again the same thing. Sometimes the revs would go up and then once the car sped up, the revs would go down while the car speed seemed to try to catch up to the revs. There was no problem with moderate acceleration and a slow depression of the pedal, but when I floored it it seemed the engine would go but the car wouldn't for a while. I apoligize that I have very little mechanical knowledge, but does this sound like a clutch problem? If so, does anyone know a ballpark figure of how much it would cost to get this repaired at the dealership? Or, what else could this be? It figures that this would happen just as I am getting ready to sell my @%$#&!! car. Thanks in advance for all of you mechanically inclined!

Sounds like a new clutch is in order. Approximately $1200 installed.

Mine did the exact same thing 1000 miles after i bought it. Dealership quoted me $1800, took it elsewhere for $1200.

+1 Sounds like a worn/slipping clutch.

sounds like a slipping clutch, take it an asap and save your flywheel

Thanks for the feedback. Time to call the local independent shop. I don't know about everyone else, but it seems that it is just one problem after another with the 02' 996 (I guess I shouldn't complain since I haven't had an RMS leak or any major engine or drivetrain issues). I looked at what I spent over the last year on tires, insurance, maintenance and repairs and it averages to about $400/month. I'm not complaining, but the next Porsche that I get will probably be a new vehicle lease so I can get rid of it before the warranty expires.

"seems that it is just one problem after another with the 02' 996 " clutch failure is the drivers fault not the mfg or the car

Clutch failure is not always the driver's fault. There is a know problem with many of thhe release levers on many 996's along with the slave, both of which have been redesigned. A bad lever or worn release bearing canl cause the pressure plate not to release fully and cause excessive disc wear.

you really should do you home work Vehicle Type: 911 Carrera (996)/911 Carrera 4 (996) Model Year: As of 1999 (X) Concern: Creaking noise coming from clutch bell housing area. Information: When the clutch is activated, creaking noises can occur in the area of the clutch release collar. The clutch release lever has been modified to eliminate the noise. In the event of a complaint, the release lever along with the other listed parts must be replaced. The modified release lever was installed in production on April 19, 2000 from the following transmission number: G9600 1018220. When installing the new release arm, follow the following points: l The existing installed adapter, part number, 012 141 751 A, is no longer necessary. l Insert the sealing ring into the ball journal recess on the release lever and fasten with the retaining spring. l Do not grease the ball journal or the ball journal recess. l Coat the guide tube on the sliding surface of the release bearing with the paste �Optimol MPO�. l Grease the contact point between the release bearing and the release lever with the grease �Olista Longtime 3EP�. Parts Information: Part Number Description 996 116 712 04 Release lever (modified) 996 116 716 02 Ball journal 996 116 741 00 Retaining spring (clip) 996 116 743 00 Sealing ring 000 043 205 10 Optimol MPO (enough to many vehicles) 000 043 024 00 Olista Longtime 3EP (enough to do many vehicles) Working Time: Labor Operation Time Units Description 34 35 19 00 330 TU Removing/Installing transmission (Carrera) 34 35 19 00 370 TU Removing/Installing transmission (Carrera 4) 30 45 19 50 20 TU Removing/Installing release bearing Includes: removing/Installing release lever and ball journal. Reference: 911 Carrera Technical Manual, Group 3: Repairs: 30 50 37 � Dissembling/assembling clutch. Technical Information � No. 2/00 � Clutch pedal noises Technical Information 911 (996) 7/00 3 3041 Creaking Noise In Clutch Bell Housing Area �2006 Porsche Cars North America, Inc. AfterSales Date: 1-20-06 Page 1 of 2 Binder - 3, Manual Transmission This bulletin replaces bulletin, Group 3, #7/00, dated 12-22-00. the lever was changed due to noises not for cluch release problems, I have never seen or heard of a bad release lever, thats kind of like having a bad nickle a piece of metal doesnt go bad. funny how your the only one who knows of this problem and no one in the dealership has ever heard of this.

So I guess since you have never seen it, it does not happen? Have you ever looked at the lever? Do you know what makes it slip and bind with the slave piston? Problem exists even with the second release lever issued and they have redesigned the slave to correct it. What is causing the noise? The noise is coming from the piston slipping out of position from the lever contact, changing the point of contact and the throw on the lever. This is exactly why they modified the new lever and made a substantial increase in the recess, trying to eliminate this movement. With the piston out of position, the lever does not release fully and the clutch slips. This is more evident when shifting quickly at high engine speeds and lasts for as long as a few seconds before the piston slips back into proper position in the release lever. Many of us have had a new clutch installed without the new lever only to have it slip immediatley. Replacement of the lever corrected the problem. So, I guess you do not believe that a binding release bearing cannot cause the disc to slip? So, what WOULD happen if the bearing did not release as quickly as designed? Any ideas? This has been a common problem in manual transmission for decades. Do you actually think that Porsche would issue a TSB stating that the lever will cause clutch failure and have to absorb the cost for a new clutch? Educating yourself from manuals is a good start, but there is no substitute for experience. You're a funny guy, Brad.

Hey - you two guys play nice! The rest of use depend on the two of you far too much for you to be taking shots at each other. Your efforts are greatly appreciated.

EXPERIENCE HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH your experience comes from where? your experience with one car (your own) and what you read, we service 140+ cars a week and no one has heard of your "issue" its funny how some things becomes a "common" issue by one guy spouting off useless information and everybody reading about it. So lets here it whats your experince, how long have you worked as an engineer for porsche?

Is that what your mom told you when she caught you with dirty magazines!? (Couldn't resist, just trying to relieve the tension!)

38k miles, not bad. Changed my clutch at 22k. $1,500 ish from the dealer, and take the advice above, change it ASAP and save the flywheel (another $800).

Is that what you told your mom when she caught you with the dirty magazines..... (Sorry, couldn't resist etc.....)

I never thought this thread would spawn so much tension during the holidays. Thank you for sharing all of your knowlege. I took my car to a private porshce mechanic who left the porsche dealership several years ago. He took my car for a drive with me and noted some interesting things. First. I purchased my '02 C4 Cab from a Porsche Dealership with a CPO. When he depressed the clutch he couldn't believe it. Mine is the only porshce I have driven so I didn't know any different, but the cluth was very difficult (read take a strong quads to depress the pedal) to depress. He took me over to another 996 in the shop to show what a normal cluth feels like. Anyway, my clutch has felt like this since the day I bought it. He said that there is no way that a Porsche dealership should have let the car leave with the clutch like this. Whether or not this has anything to with it needing replaced after 37,000 miles, I don't know. I have taken this car to the Porsche dealership several times previously to have other work done (under warranty) and they never mentioned to me that the clutch was not right. It will run about $1,700. He suggest replacing the rear main seal at the same time. BTW, I had a 1990 Nissan pickup with a manual transmission that I drove for over 100,000 miles and never had to replace the clutch. Since I shifted the Nissan pretty much the same as the Porshce, it wouldn't seem to make sense to the novice that the Porsche clutch failure is all my fault. Unless of course a $5,000 Nissan just has a better clutch for poor drivers like me than a $100,000 Porsche.

the pedal get firm when the clutch nears the end of its life. as the clucth wears the lever action of the pressure plate looses some of its mechanical adavntae (think simple machines with a lever and a fulcrom) and the pedal gets harder to depress. BUt as far as the dealer doing something about it, its one of thoses thing you replace when it goes not before I dont think they were too wrong. I to would recomned rms replace ment when the trans is out for a clutch, just make sure they use the new 997 style seal and use the proper instalation tool (i dont think many indy shops have it.)

Thanks for the tip. I will call and make certain that he gets it right.