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YOUR RESEARCH996 cavity wax
Leading reported evidence
Reseal rear bungs
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I resealed the rear bungs with tigerseal from ECP - its a black PU adhesive.
Leading evidence: 'Reseal rear bungs' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Reseal rear bungs' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Run past the engine and end in the bumper supports
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Suggestion
I would blast the chassis legs that run past the engine and end in the bumper supports.
Run under the windscreen surround rubber assuming its 100% dry
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Suggestion
It does not hurt to let some run under the windscreen surround rubber assuming its 100% dry when you do it.
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9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T053112Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi all
Being unable to drive my 996 at present I'm taking the opportunity to clean up the arches and underside and add some protection. I've injected wax (Bilt hamber dynax s50) into the sills and wondered if there are any other cavity points on the car that would be worth blasting? Any advice most welcome.
Cheers
Hi
I would blast the chassis legs that run past the engine and end in the bumper supports. Around the underside of the windscreen if you can get there. It does not hurt to let some run under the windscreen surround rubber assuming its 100% dry when you do it. Under the battery is a good spot to have some also if the 996 is anything like the 993.
I also like to blast suspension components with Tectyl ML, or WD506. And brake pipes etc. Keeps existing corrosion at bay and stops new. Also works great on metal trim fasteners on undertrays and wheel arch liners. Have a look behind the headlights also and see if you can see any pipes/metalwork that look corroded.
All the best
Berni
I waxoyl'd mine. Remove both front and rear wheel arch liners, the front sill one gets you halfway down the sill, front to rear and doing the rear will do the rest.
There are also a few grommets on the rear wheel arches, I think 4 in each arch in total, that will get it all the way to the inside of the rear of the rear arch near the bumper. There's some other holes without grommets along the underbody chassis rails that are worth doing. Jacking points are another to do.
Thanks both for your replies. I've accessed the sills from the front and rear arch grommets and pumped a load of wax in there. I've found the grommets at the tops of the arches so will also inject at these points. Have been doing some localised rust repairs to the inner arches, floor pan and jacking points by grinding back, zinc priming and new seam sealer/stone chip paint. I have some BH dynax uc wax so will apply this over all chassis areas including my new repairs. Should keep things nicely protected for a while.
I resealed the rear bungs with tigerseal from ECP - its a black PU adhesive.
Just completed this exercise and mine was remarkably rust free for 17 years old!
My sills also look good when viewed through the bung holes. The repairs I've had to do are only really where the existing stone chip coating or seam sealer has aged and started to come away. All in all not too bad for 21 years old. The worst part is at the front of the rear arch. Mine has the aero kit and there was a mountain or crud trapped when I removed the arch liner. It's started to rust but I'm hopeful I've caught it in time as it all feels solid. The car is booked in at the bodyshop to have some other bits and pieces done so I'll ask them the attend to this when it goes in.
I've just finished this job on my S2000. I complimented S50 with UB for the arches, underside and suspension components
Horrible horrible job. I actually went a bit overboard and painted the entire visible chassis in Por15 first. Got through a good 4 cans of s50 & 6 of UB.. oh and 4 liters of Por-15 at £50 a tin.
Porsche is up next.
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