13 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHReplacement Radio Power On Issue
Leading reported evidence
Use add-a-fuse
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I used an add-a-fuse on B-9 which has power when the key is inserted.
Leading evidence: 'Use add-a-fuse' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace cdr-24' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I tried using B9 but the fuze splice would have stuck out the side of the fuze panel.
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Suggestion
Most of us use a thing called various names but looks like this
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13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T203514Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have a
2007 Cayman S
with
Bose sound system
. I replace the CDR-24 with a
Pioneer
4200NEX and MOST HUR. I love it, it sounds great, looks great. But there's one annoying issue. It only comes on with the ignition. The CDR-24 powered on when the key was inserted and I'd like to get the
Pioneer
unit to do the same. Anybody have a similar issue? And any ideas how to fix it?
Most after market headunits have two power connections. A switched +12v (red) wire to turn-on the unit, and an always-on +12v (usually yellow) to actually power the unit.
What did you use to power the switched (red) wire? I used an add-a-fuse on B-9 which has power when the key is inserted.
Thanks for the info. I didn't do the installation but had it done for me. I understand about the always on and the switched +12VDC. And I guess the connection that I currently have to the switched +12VDC isn't what I want. Can you give me more details about the B-9 connection. Is that on the HUR? Head unit? from the vehicle wiring? I really appreciate the quick answer but you're assuming that I know more about this than I do!
B-9 is a fuse in the fuse box on the driver's footwell. Most of us use a thing called various names but looks like this
Fuse tap
. The red wire from the headunit needs to be routed to the fuse box and attached to this plug. It is then plugged into a switched fuse location. As I said, I used B-9, but there are others.
The installer may have used something like this but plugged it into the wrong fuse location. If you paid someone, take it back - and have them fix it.
If you scan the Electronics sub-forum you'll find lots of info on upgrading headunits. There may be an article or two in the Articles section.
The stock radio harness has a constant +12V wire. The harness doen't have a switched +12V wire. There are Can-Bus wires to communicate with the headunit. My guess is that the car turns on the headunit via Can-Bus signals. Most aftermarket units require a switched +12v trigger wire that stays on while the ignition is on. On Porsches, that means when the key is inserted.
That wouldn't be helpful.:crazy: For one thing the radio would not turn off. It would also back-feed unswitched power to the switched circuits in the fuse box.
you hit the power button on the front and it turns off?...my
kenwood
is wired this way with a fused link. if you don't you need the key in the ignition to make it work which is something I don't do whilst clean it and listening to the radio. as for back feed..you mean a permeant live to the radio, its not a fluorescent light wired in parallel with a back feed on the neutral. its just a radio at 12v. . . And it doesn't drain the battery. the other thing is if you don't have a permanent live you have to put in passwords for the internet, email and any usage all the time which sucks
Connecting the switched +12v to the always hot line would keep the radio on all the time unless I turn it off. And I don't think I can even turn it off. Don't think that is a good idea. I ended up connecting the switched 12 volts to another fuze, B6. I tried using B9 but the fuze splice would have stuck out the side of the fuze panel. Many thanks for the assistance, it now works like I think it should.
Ok, here's the
next
issue! The radio now stays on when I turn the engine off but leave the key in... for about 20 or 30 seconds and then shuts off. Anybody have a similar issue? I've tried a variety of fuse locations to supply the switched +12 volts and they all have the same issue.
Hard to guess without knowing exact details on how your unit is powered (red and yellow wires). Is the whole thing shutting down, or just the audio? Are you loosing any settings when it shuts off? BTW, I came across some circuits that have a delay before shutting off. I don't remember which.
The radio turns off display, audio, everything but I don't lose any settings. It acts like the switched 12vdc is removed. But here's the funny thing. Right now I have it connected to the left window fuse and after the radio shuts off the window still goes up and down! Weird huh? I've tried several other fuse locations and they all work the same.
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