Hi chaps,
Can you please refer me to the right parts/places to buy a flywheel and a clutch kit for a 987.2S ?
Didn't think that it will happen so soon - my newly purchased car with 48k miles - slipped the clutch after dropping it twice under high torque already. After the first time I thought that maybe the clutch surface is dirty. But after the second time... well, sad times, what can I say. Normal driving is ok, but this is not a Kia Stinger.
Thanks in advance!
MAybe describe a bit more what you mean by clutch slip. I have that issue (if the same) once in a while but
Porsche
says sometimes its my fickle gas foot which leaves the car confused if i want want more gas or not. No fault codes as well for mine.
@wmclarenf1
- Interesting, It throws a code when it's worn?
I'm going to do some more testing, but when I drop the clutch aggressively on a higher RPM - so far while rolling slowly - with the clutch pedal released
completely
and flooring progressively gas - for about 2 seconds there is clutch slipping until it finally grabs. I don't remember anything like it happening to my first car.
Today I will check how it grabs from standing still.
I will do the job myself if it is what I think it is. This is what I found so far:
Flywheel - $579 -
Porsche Clutch Flywheel - Luk 4150593100
Clutch kit - $580 -
Porsche Clutch Kit - Sachs K70544-01
Ok.. Yours is a MT. Mine's a
PDK
. Likely totally different things we are referring to .
My clutch behaved like you describe - it worked, but you couldn’t launch - so I swapped it over the winter. It looked pretty bad:
Those parts you linked should be correct.
I had my clutch replaced @48k, three months ago when I had the Wavetrac LSD installed. Cantrell Motor Sports said my flywheel surface was still ok. But I do autocross, which means at least 4 standing starts from 4500 rpm. Sach's clutch kit was installed, along with the Wavetrac and Function First transaxle mounts to go with the FunctionFirst Orange motor mount insert. Increased the NVH slightly, but really tightened up the rear end. No more wheel hop on
launch
, just twin black Hoosier A7 rubber.
You certainly can look at a light wt. flywheel since you most likely have scoured the faceplate as above. I thought about it as it allows for more initial power to the wheels. But the cost is in NVH at idle, espacily on the freeway in stop and go traffic, where I use neutral a lot, where the single flywheel will rattle. It certainly does make for downshifting gear change easier to match engine RPM to the gear with a blip.
Question - are there/should there be stages to the clutch wear? Slowly growing symptomatology?
I test drove the car once again. Dropped the clutch to lose traction and do a 180 degree turn (half a donut). It did lose traction and made the 180, but while the wheels started gaining traction on my way out - the same thing happened - it started slipping until it regained grip at the clutch with a ~1 sec delay.
I think that it's worn enough to have a slippery surface over the friction plate. It's not a deal breaker, the car doesn't slip when I do highway pulls. At this point I'm wondering if I should keep driving until it becomes obvious (it's my daily) or should it be addressed quickly.
Thanks for your comments, they are very helpful.
Mine failed all at once. It was the pressure plate, several of the spring fingers collapsed. Clutch disk itself was still in good shape.
