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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBottom ball joint
Leading reported evidence
Install spyder ones all round
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've recently fitted the Spyder ones all round on my car and they seem fine.
Leading evidence: 'Install spyder ones all round' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'sorted' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install spyder ones all round' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
This is the splitter I use with great success and no damage to the balljoint rubber boots thanks to the wider jaw on this particular model.
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Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Use jack until it is at or
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
Compress the suspension using your jack until it is at or near loaded position, then torque the final bushing bolt.
Outcome qualification: Negation, uncertainty or missing explicit repair resolution overrides the raw extraction signal.
Coverage and how to read this overview
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14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T142254Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi guys
My recent MOT showed a worn lower O/S ball joint on my 2001 turbo, can you point me in the direction of what I need and if it's a straightforward job please?
TIA
Coffin arm I would think. They are the same whether they are left/right/front/back.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-...-Arm-With-Ball-Joint-99634105317/333303235434
A ball joint splitter will most probably be needed if the coffin arm has been on there long enough for the ball joint to fail. The inner bolt may also be seized, these are the two main problems, other than that they are a fairly straight forward swap.
You will need to have the geometry set again afterwards.
Be wary of some makes being different lengths, and a batch of the Spyder arms that I had, had a bigger sized inner bush hole which would mean premature wear in that bush.
I think the Meyle ones had a batch where they were the wrong size. I believe the issue was sorted. I've recently fitted the Spyder ones all round on my car and they seem fine.
The inner bolts on the front of mine came off easy but one of the rear eccentric bolts needed cut out. I needed a splitter to press the joints out. A large heavy duty one was needed as my old Draper one wasn't deep enough to clear the hub and reach the ball joint end.
Ok well I might just give it a try at home in the coming weeks, £45 seem reasonable enough, I'll do both sides seeing as the geo will have to Ben done :thumb:
Edit: this guide is excellent and says no geo required
http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=638683
The front coffin arms aren't adjustable so there shouldn't really be a need unless the geo has been adjusted to accommodate the old worn arms. If you don't touch the track rod ends or the suspension top mounts (which you won't need to for this job) then nothing should move.
Be sure to compress suspension before torquing the inner bushing. Install everything, but leave the inner coffin arm bushing loose. Compress the suspension using your jack until it is at or near loaded position, then torque the final bushing bolt. This is a bushing, not a bearing, so it is position sensitive. There is actually an indicator mark on some coffin arms to tell you when they are loaded sufficiently.
Some of the aftermarket arms have a softer bush
Under hard acceleration you may notice the car pulls slightly
Not really noticeable on a Carrera, but apparently noticeable on a turbo
I'd go with a genuine / TRW (if you can find one) coffin arm on a turbo, and I might be tempted to do both sides.
Have a search
I will do both sides anyway, I have noticed that prices wary somewhat. TRW items are like hens teeth right now, I'll keep an eye open as won't be going very far in it anytime soon :what:
