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YOUR RESEARCHExhaust Bolts
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Replace six bolts
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When I put Top Gear mufflers on I replaced the six bolts with some high tensile ones from Homebase...
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When I replaced my exhaust a few years ago all the same bolts either snapped or rounded the heads so I just cut the tops off with an angle grinder and used a substantial punch and big hammer to smack them out, quite an easy job to remove.
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Suggestion · Original poster
So does anyone know the size and length of these bolts and is it worth replacing with anything fancy like stainless steel?
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When I replaced my exhaust a few years ago all the same bolts either snapped or rounded the heads so I just cut the tops off with an angle grinder and used a substantial punch and big hammer to smack them out, quite an easy job to remove.
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this picture (from years ago) shows the results of another garage trying just that - and we put some long bolts in their helocoiled repair to demonstrate how bad the outcome can be (we fixed it correctly of course).
When I went to TopGear to have my boxes fitted they pointed out the other fixing bolts would need replacing.
I've got the time on my hands now as they are so rusted they will probably need grinding off and drilling out.
So does anyone know the size and length of these bolts and is it worth replacing with anything fancy like stainless steel? My car is in its lockup at the moment and the photo below is just for illustration but I want to make sure I order the right size bolts before starting the job[/b]
Aren't they all M8? Screwfix do packs of various length Stainless Steel M8 bolts:
https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=m8+stainless+set+screw
They also do nuts and washers in SS to suit.
I'm pretty sure M8 x 40mm is the size you need. Any kind of stainless nut will do, either locknut or standard with a spring washer. The plastic in a locknut will melt but the nut still won't come loose.
Good luck drilling/beating out the old studs. That job is a tough one. However, it's well worth it, and every time I've needed to remove the exhaust since for other jobs, I've been very grateful to my younger self for doing the job with stainless hardware.
the problem stems from the fact that - if (for example) you snap the stud off flush with the aluminium face - the remains look circular - but the circle is actually the thread revolving around the stud as it moves down its length - so the centre of the steel is not the centre of the stud.
This results in people drilling a neat pilot hole in the centre of what they can see and when they try and enlarge it - the drill wanders off to the side.
Only ever do this with a jig!
this picture (from years ago) shows the results of another garage trying just that - and we put some long bolts in their helocoiled repair to demonstrate how bad the outcome can be (we fixed it correctly of course).
Thanks guys for the replies....
The ones on mine have almost corroded away to nothing so I think it's going to be a case of grinding what's left off and drilling out new holes. Just seen the reply above I'm not going to drill out anything attached to the engine this is just the linking section between various sections of the exhaust pipe (I wish I knew what the sections are called)
Hi Moko,
The bolts you want are M8 as Alex says; they're 35mm in length. The Porsche part number is 900 074 287 02 but I wouldn't get Porsche ones as they're silly expensive.
When I put Top Gear mufflers on I replaced the six bolts with some high tensile ones from Homebase...
When I replaced my exhaust a few years ago all the same bolts either snapped or rounded the heads so I just cut the tops off with an angle grinder and used a substantial punch and big hammer to smack them out, quite an easy job to remove. I replaced with SS bolts from eBay.
I tried to do this yesterday. Got the bumpers and the back boxes off without too much effort, but couldn't get the bloody cats off.
The state of the nuts - basically non-existent - got me thinking that I should be able to just pop the cats off by removing the clamps and gently levering from the free (ie. backbox) side and everything would crumble away but it was clear they were still held to the manifold pretty tightly.
Could just about manage to get a junior hacksaw in to try to cut off one of the nuts but even that failed to release anything. Had to call time on the whole operation, I think I need to go back with a dremmel or something to grind the remains of the nuts off no matter how seemingly insignificant they are!
I know there is a small blow there courtesy of the soapy water trick and would like to get on top of it! :nooo:
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