Another PU extractor

Like Moko below I've managed to remove my bumper today. What should've been fairly straightforward was quite arduous as some of the torx screws were completely fused and rusted to their speed nuts so I had to drill then out (and remove wheels and wheel arches to do it). Did you have this issue too moko? Gonna fit some aluminium mesh now to the grilles and meanwhile try and get some of the stuck screws out. Here's some before and after pics. I found these Amazon purchasers useful to drill out the worn torx screws. The extractor drill bits are effective. In this picture, you can see the lower torx head has sheered off leaving the screw stuck in. Any hints how to remove this without removing the whole bracket (thereby having to tackle 4 more rusty screws). I tried drilling it and pulling it out but not enough purchase. All in all, quite a fun job and I learned a few things in the process. Still haven't put everything back! Cheers

Little tip here .. this is the electric version of what i use at work .. this will grind out a fixing such as this in about 1 min or less .. https://www.amazon.co.uk/KKmoon-Sanding-Adapter-Electric-Grinder/dp/B07BVVY99N This should be in everybody's diy tool kit as far as i'm concerned ... its worth its weight in gold when you need it . This was the first google search so there are others and buy metal graded belts for it.

Agree that both front/rear PUs are a pig to remove with rusted self-tapper screw heads. Drilling them out causes heat to melt the PU. I also had trouble with the rear sill caps. @deMort looks like a solution. When you know you will replace a part, you just need the quickest method to remove.

Thanks, looks interesting. How does it work in practise on a worn screw? Does it allow precision sanding? Otherwise wouldn't it damage surrounding structures? Sorry, I'm very much a novice here!

Woow I can't believe how much stuff you've got in your radiators. Mine had hardly anything in them....I was going to fit wire mesh grills but decided as so little had got in mine that I wouldn't bother with the hassle of cutting and fitting them. I might have to review that after seeing how much you can get in there. As to the fasteners they all came off relatively easily both the torx heads and the Phillips heads...but I hate those plastic clip things who ever came up with that idea.

Yeah. It's surprising how much stuff can collect there.. I had cigarette ends in there too, and some dead wasps! Have you owned yours long? Maybe a previous owner/garage cleaned out the rads and updated the fixings? On my C4S, the large central grille already has a built in mesh of sorts. I just need to cover the lateral sections, got some aluminium mesh and plastic cord ties from Amazon for £15! Will post the outcome. Need to address these damn stuck screws first and make sure I copper grease the replacements!

There's also these type of screw extraction pliers that might give you enough grip to remove them https://www.amazon.co.uk/extractor-...words=extracting+pliers&qid=1584052658&sr=8-5

These lateral sections: (strange seeing your front bumper in the house!?)

Wow , that`s a lot of crap in there DJ911, I think I`ll have a look and see with my endoscope how much is stuck in the rads on my cars :thumb:

Cheers, I needed a decent set of pliers so I have ordered these ones and will report back. Might give enough purchase to get the sheered screw out.

My twopenn'orth: It's very easy to use an undersized torx bit on a rusted fastener as rust expands. Make sure you're using a bit with as snug a fit as possible. Worth selecting it based on the cleanest, best condition fastener you can find. I find even with these kind of fasteners it's worth a wire brush and penetrating fluid, then when you're undoing, put as much effort into pushing the bit into the fastener as you do into turning it. Once it gets started, more penetrating fluid and a bit of patience (doing it up then undoing it etc) will see some fasteners release that would otherwise have sheared. As you say, copper grease on refitting. It sounds like a lot of hassle for a few quick fasteners but it saves a lot of time if they strip or shear!

Thanks, I'll bare that in mind.. I guess it's tempting just to reach straight for the drill/grinder before trying the basics first. Every screw is different (feel free to quote me on that..).

Can't believe how little muck you have in your rads. My advice, fit the mesh, you'll regret it later if you don't..

You use it to sand off the head of a screw ( it's a rotating sanding disc of whatever grit you choose .. 180 is best though ) , you steady it with your hands , perhaps resting one hand against the car itself whilst steadying the tool its very accurate and wont slip that way . You use the head of it on the bolt or screw . When a screw is in plastic it takes a little longer as you pause to let it cool down a bit ... you don't have to but it will smoke a bit if too hot . I use this when there is nothing left of the fixings to undo ... it's got to come off and for me this is the quickest method ... some cars and to get the undertrays off i use this on every fixing . Dam useful on exhaust flange studs that need changing as well . Don't forget .. use safety goggles when using tools like this ... you only have one pair of eyes !!

Ahh I see, I definitely plan on getting one in future, and safety googles! I've been relying on my glasses the last couple of days.. Meanwhile I got some of these, as recommended, and they made pretty short work of the stuck Torx screws, really good bite. Would've saved loads of time if I'd had them at the beginning. I couldn't get the headless screw out of the rad bracket in the end without destroying the plastic housing. It was impossibly stuck in the plastic and couldn't get bite or drill it out! Guess the angle grinder would've done it. Only £22 for a new bracket at least. Got the mesh on, quite enjoyed it! Didn't do too bad a job and will definitely stop the bigger stuff getting in. Thanks again for the help and advice. Next project... the dreaded heater matrix!!