What is a concidered a high milage engine ? (987.2 )

I am looking to buy a 987.2 S The miles are getting up there on most of these cars. What would be considered TBO or about ready for an O.H.? The one I am looking at right now is about 130K on the clock. Is that on the edge? Thanx!

Mine is at 90 and seems fine. Only put the last 10 or so on it. Oil consumption was about 3/4 qt in those 10K

Ask @foodbiker that question. His has over 220k on it (I forget the exact number - it's impressive - and I've driven it, it drives just like mine at 71k miles.) The S engine might be a bit different, but the basic design is the same, and I haven't heard of any of the engines actually just wearing out. Keep good oil in them, don't let them overheat and I think you're in it for the long run.

Thanks, @deilenberger - 255.5K 2010 (base, not an S) and currently still running strong for now. A key difference: the 2.9 base uses EFI (with a fuel rail) like the old M96 engines, and the 3.4 S uses DFI. As the question of bore scoring is apparently dependent on fuel injection, the 2.9 (987.2 base) is arguably the safest bet for longevity. Although bore scoring is more prevalent in the 987.1 (2006-2008 model years, particularly in the S versions I believe), there is now some very minor discussion / questioning if similar bore scoring will show up in the 987.2 and 981 engines as more time and mileage passes. My feeling is that the issues won't be anywhere near as prevalent as seen in the 987.1 -- and even less so if it's a 987.2 base. I personally think that you'd have a less of a chance of engine issues with a 987.2 or 981 than a 987.1, and I say that as a former owner of a bulletproof 987.1S (2005) that I sold on at about 93K. The key question you should ask yourself is what kind of driving do you enjoy. If you're in an urban area and want daily high rev fun without going to jail speeds, consider the base with the short shifting gear ratio you're doing a lot of highway stuff or serious HPDE days, consider the S.

I read / heard somewhere not to use 0 W oils in these, but to move to a 5 W 30 or 40. The zero oils are required more for fuel averages than engine concerns. It might have come from L&N on youtube with Lake jr from Total Seal Piston rings

157000 miles on my 2.9 here in the UK. Runs beautifully too, regular oil changes for 5w30 , warm up and warm down. These cars are made to be driven !!

Are both engines direct injection?

@afterburn 823 : Per what I wrote above: 2.9L base is EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection 3.4 S is DFI = Direct Fuel Injection. So I may be wrong here, but I believe only the latter is direct injection. Hope that helps. After watching the PCA videos on bore scoring, I'm seriously considering moving over to a 5W-40/50 at this point. My car is going in for service next week (high pressure steering line leak), and will be talking to them about it. I'll also be talking to my P-car master tech friend about this too.

TBO. You must be a pilot There is of course no regulatory guidance in this regard and even common sense will vary wildly. There will be folks that have put a lot of miles on their cars and are willing to put up with oil usage, etc. And/or just drive locally. And there are folks, like me, that will be uncomfortable taking a high mileage car very far from home. It's not apples and apples but here is a link to my articles about rebuilding a 987.1 , with 100k miles. I found some wear, especially on the piston skirts, that probably would have destroyed the engine at some point. What that point is is very hard to know. I'm happy to have caught it when I did. 0 very 5 weight. 40 vs 50 weight. All that is discussed in the PCA Bore Scoring videos on youtube. Watch the 4 part series. As noted, the S engine is DFI. The main reason people go with this engine is that there is no IMS bearing to fail. But then, DFI uses some high pressure pumps and plumbing, which most likely have a higher long term maintenance cost. There are always tradeoffs. 2007 Cayman S 987.1 – Full Engine Rebuild – Why? My friend Greg said “Only a crazy person would rebuild a Porsche engine that is running fine.” Greg, I agree! As per my thread on this car, I bought it 2 years ago. I think I just beat … newhillgarage.com There are currently 4 articles. Check out "Inspection" to see the piston issue.

We, aircraft people, get terms and nomenclatures crossed. LOL Sorry. Better than below AGL.........argh argh arghh (had to) LOL I am getting closer and closer to pulling the trigger on something. It is scary out there! The reason I will not buy Gen One is bore score and IMS . Ims according to everything I can assimilate is a killer in two different scenarios. Scenario one-- It is going bad and does not have any signs, however, it is destroying the engine. Simple. like cancer eating it up! Scenario two- you hear it and address it, but, by then it is too late, and damage is done to the inside of the engine. So what is to be done? In Gen One, the IMS has to be done B4 before it starts to fail! As in preventive maintenance, like oil changes, spark plugs , etc. Waiting until a sign is just too late. The FOD went through the rotating parts. So a PPI will not even reveal much unless you do an oil sample and catch it really early. Going back to TBO (hours thought to be safe or miles) is the unknown. That is why I just can't be bothered with Gen One, as the IMS is not just that. It is a bomb going off in slow motion.! Bore score, Yes bore score can be found in both Gens. Be predominantly Gen One. Dropping the sump and peering in from behind the piston is the best way to inspect the cylinders. This info is from hours of study, do as you wish

All good Probably your safest bet is the Gen 2 non S (base) car. Hard to find in the great scheme of things.

Ok so I/ we have some rambling resuts on durability .... I will impose my next question In you guys opinions what are the options to look for? I am a gearhead,- so I am leaning on the S of course and Chrono What comes after that>? Thanx

One footnote: One's comfort level really varies. Per my very high mileage 987.2 base, it was a bit of detective work (lots of inference and deduction), and a calculated risk before purchase: The CarFax showed regular dealer maintenance for the first 242K miles. To me, that was a very good sign. From this and internal wear (i.e., a very worn driver's seat but unworn passenger seat), I'm guessing that meant it was largely a commuter car for a single driver down in GA for nearly a decade. Checking the VAL via a PIWIS 2, there were zero overruns in the high rev ranges. To me, this read that the car was neither tracked or abused. Although there's currently no apparent significant oil loss since I got the car (no refill/top-off required)...no unusual major oil burning or smoke (except the standard amount of smoke that occurs after the car has been sitting a few days and the "lifter sound" which goes away), of course there must be hidden wear as no ICE engine is magical. After a long drive, although there's no smoke, the exhaust smells differently than my 987.1S or 981 (991S 3.8L engine). Something is likely up, but I'm guessing not catastrophic. I'm anticipating that the Blackstone oil analysis will show significant wear -- indicating that I shouldn't push the car like crazy -- but I wasn't planning to anyhow. This car will be about endurance, and not winning races. For me, I'm not going to push my luck and track it (can't afford HPDE anyhow...but might try AX) and will likely continue to enjoy it as my DD. But for long distance driving, I think it's up to the task. I did a round trip to NJ (~500 miles) without breaking a sweat last fall, and am considering doing a 3K mile east coast trip this year. I'm honestly more concerned about catching a flat tire in rural areas (so, I bought a spare) than anything, but that's just me.

back to op's initial question, if you're shopping on BAT, high mileage is anything over 10K. I personally disagree with that notion but that seems to be a consensus on that site backed by sales data. also, it's one thing to have a car with 90K or 130k plus, but it's quite another to buy one with miles up there. you won't know how the car was maintained early in its life with that many miles. unless there are impeccable service records. but even then, why go there? get a lower mileage one that'll give you fewer problems. it's not just the engine. Little things wear out that are a PITA to fix. like in my car, the window washers don't work. needs a new pump. that is a PITA to fix. The higher the mileage, the more of those little things you'll have to deal with.

The car is a Black Edition,.. so it is sort of rare ..is the reason I am interested.

Just to clarify, the base 2.9 engine does not have IMS and is quietly one of the most dependable engines Porsche has made in recent years.

I have a 987.1S with 134k miles that I drive the heck out of. I change the oil every 3 to 4 months with 0w40 and check the filter for metal. Last year the car drove from California to Utah and then to Colorado and Texas. I make multi-hour country drives half a dozen times per month when it’s warm enough. I don’t worry about it, it’s meant to drive and I enjoy it. Cheers

My MY10CS PDK with Sport Chrono did 218k miles before it tanked. It was regularly maintained since I bought it in 2012 as a CPO with 23,500 miles and did Mobil1 0/40 oil changes every 5K miles. It’s my daily driver and I enjoy it every minute. BGB motorsports here in town installed a X51 3.8 powerplant that screams like nothing I’ve ever driven. I’m hoping for another 220K miles to enjoy my new DD. It’s really outtasite.

I have a 2012 Black Edition and keep tabs on any that have been for sale for the last 5 years. Can you tell the edition number or the VIN # as I likely have some record of its sales and mileage history if it has ever been up for sale.

Go here and scroll down The Mart | The Porsche Club of America Gorgeous 23,000 mile for $55,000! SOLD

Thanx Vilshofen ! here is the Vin. Supposedly it might be sold or close to it...and it might be a bit haggard...LOL WP0AB2A85CS780150

Aeneas137 #14 10 k on a car five or ten years old is- low , mileage! I would say that car is being stored for the pyramids or a great sanctimonious affair somewhere. Cars with that little use have their very own set of problems

I’m In Australia and my Service Guy recommended mobile 5/40super 3000 If you’re in a colder Climate possibly the 0 weight Oil