15 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHClutch slipping issue
Leading reported evidence
Inspect with the box out
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Guide tube , release bearing arm are inspected with the box out to make a judgement on them .
Leading evidence: 'Inspect with the box out' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'rms may be weeping' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check clutch being needed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
Slight weep on the bell housing so I suspect the RMS may be weeping.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Cheers Chris, I knew I'd read somewhere about changing the pivot arm for the 997 one or something like that.
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Suggestion · Original poster
When I went to Oulton on Friday my clutch kept slipping after everytime I disengaged it from a gear change - the revs would increase but not speed, then the clutch would gain traction and be ok.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion · Original poster
When I went to Oulton on Friday my clutch kept slipping after everytime I disengaged it from a gear change - the revs would increase but not speed, then the clutch would gain traction and be ok.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261027T051247Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
When I went to Oulton on Friday my clutch kept slipping after everytime I disengaged it from a gear change - the revs would increase but not speed, then the clutch would gain traction and be ok. I almost turned round and came home!
Once I met up with some other members on here 52 miles into the journey I parked up for 15 minutes before continuing to our destination. The clutch was fine after that and has been since.
I know it must be getting to the end of its life as the biting point is almost at the top end of pedal travel and it's done just over 3 years of daily use and 41k miles.
What's flummoxed me though is that it started slipping on Friday and now it's fine. :dont know:
I can only think either my RMS has started weeping and I'd got some oil on my clutch plate, or the clutch wasn't releasing the same due to some crud preventing it from doing so.
Any other thoughts?
Also, I've read somewhere in the past of other parts worth changing (clutch related) whilst in there - can anyone point me in the right direction please?
:thumbs:
If the biting point is high up on the pedal then i feel it's time for a new clutch .. that is a classic symptom of a worn friction plate .
Oil and it would tend to be a permanent problem and not heat related or coming and going .. biting point would be normal as well .
Clutch cover fault and they tend to slip but at normal biting point .. also the pedal feels just weird .
Not sure what you mean by other parts but clutch .. often a flywheel .. you check it with box out .. then a release bearing ..
Guide tube , release bearing arm are inspected with the box out to make a judgement on them .
There are modified arms on some Porsches but off hand im insure on a 996 .. parts list will soon say ( PET ) .
Sticking master cyl or slave .. it doesn't sound like it but i'm basing that on the biting point .. also you didn't mention the pedal being lower than normal .. you kinda put your foot under it and lift it up .
Rough check for a clutch being needed ..
Put the car in 4th gear when it should be in second due to low speed then floor the acc .. if it slips than it needs a new clutch .
With your description through .. it needs a new clutch imho.
I thought I'd read somewhere about the arm that operates the clutch plate getting worn in the socket it pivots on and its worth changing that when you fit a new clutch......or there's a newer version of it that's steel and not plastic.......or something like that? :dont know:
Flywheel's original one and I know how to check that so that'll be going back in if it's in spec.or fitting a new one if its goosed.
Not sure how much needs to be dropped to do the clutch, but if accessible I'd do the AOS, the brake lines that go over the gearbox, and a new RMS. Oh and an ideal opportunity to fit an upgraded IMSB because I know what a fan you are of those.
I'll be fitting new brake lines as they're an advisory on the last MOT. AOS is staying put as its the original one and still working perfect at 143k miles. Slight weep on the bell housing so I suspect the RMS may be weeping. IMSB will be getting a going over just to show it's still in perfect working order.
The only IMSB upgrade is the larger one and I don't fancy doing this:
https://vimeo.com/118923581
or having an engine rebuild just yet.
Alex,
I have a standard clutch & DMF that came out of my car during a recent engine rebuild, If of use you can have them.
Drop me a PM if of interest and I can dig out the details on the mileage covered, both had no issues prior to being removed.
My first clutch went around the 41000 mark.
I bought a clutch kit for mine at the end of 2018 and it was a remanufactured set, consisted of plate cover and bearing and it was only £99.99, I thought I would try it and its been fine since, as you know I have my gearbox off at the moment and its still all in perfect condition. I would buy one again next time I need a clutch, loads cheaper than the genuine kits and all the hardware is still Sach.
It looks like they have put the price up to £150 but its still a bargain.
Infra what is your mileage now and do you have a link?
I don't know when (if?) my car has had a replacement clutch, it's felt sweet in the 35,000m I've had my car, currently on 115k.
Although mine in a 997, my clutch got 47k out if it. It failed on the fingers on the clutch plate cover, rather than worn out. It still had more than 50% wear life in it. Not bad for a high performance car driven as intended.
Think that's what my last (genuine) one failed for FZP. My mechanic also stated there was a fair amount of life left in the plate too. Just goes to show buying a genuine clutch is a con as it'll still fail due to worn out bearing/plate cover once you're getting up round 50k. Better to buy the £150er.
Is this it spinfra?:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REMANUFA...E-CARRERA-911-TARGA-3000-951-015/123740855326
