Improved Clutch Action Dramatically

I've driven manual trans cars for years and owned several but never had the problems related to the clutch that I,ve had with my '99 996. Initially I thought it was just me, often when backing up or pulling slowly into a parking stall, I'd let the clutch out too quickly and kill the motor. This has happend at least a hundred times in the last 3 1/2 years. My wife makes a wise crack every time it happens and it's much more embarassing with a friend or aquaintence in the car. Anyway I remembered about a fix and got some detailed info from a Rennlist member about removing a helper spring on the clutch pedal. It was a real pain to get under the dash, lying upside down and remove a spring assembly which is barely visable. The results were well worth the effort and now my clutch feels like one in a high performance car rather than a marshmallow. The pedal now has feel and predictability for the first time since I've owned it. I doubt I'll ever kill the car again and I find I can actually release the pedal and get moving at a lower RPM than before and hills are a snap from a start. Initially the pedal seemed somewhat hard to depress but after a week it seems just like it did before only being able to feel the friction point and work with it. The dumbest thing Porsche ever did regarding the clutch was to eliminate the feel with the booster spring. If it's too much effort, buy the tip.

Hmmm...what is this spring, and where do you get it? I remember the clutch feeling kinda light on the C2 I'm buying. Couple that with the electric throttle pedal, and it makes it a little trickey to feel where the take up point is. Details!!?

Here is the PET clutch assembly. The clutch power spring is #9.

Looks like a hydraulic unit, and not a "spring"? And there are many part numbers. Do you take the stock unit out, and replace it with a heavier version?

No, he just removed the "helper" spring. The clutch will be harder to push because it is not aided by the spring, but he wanted to get the "feel" of the un-aided clutch.

The mod really provides for better control, doesn't it Nick? Glad it worked out for you.

Is the mod easily reversible?

Yup. You simply have to put the booster spring back on. As Nick said, your initial reaction will be that the pedal is too hard to press, but after a few times driving it, most people wonder why Porsche ever put the spring on.

That assist spring is also the source of a famous squeak. Now if we could lose the power brakes and steering... I tried a friend's BM E46 330i and the clutch pedal felt like a toy. I don't know people can drive those things aggressively with such light controls. Bill

Yes, best mod or upgrade I did to my car. Makes the driving experience 100X better and eliminated the only complaint I really had about about my car. Thanks for your help!

Is it readily apparent how to remove it? Any tips?

Any of you drive in real rush hour traffic?

Even without the booster spring, the clutch is still light compared to the old muscle cars when you would run a clutch so heavy your leg would shake holding it down. Traffic is no problem.

Yup, DC Beltway. But not in a 911 when I can avoid it.

Does it pop out of there somehow or do you have to remove the gold bracket on the side?

does anyone have any tips on how to get it off or what exactly im taking off. i looked under the dash this morning and just got confused.

Ah, nevermind me, found this:

Get under the dash and remove the air duct for easier access. Secure the spring piston located on the end of the spring housing with a small nail or pin to keep the spring from coming out when you remove it. Remove the rod holding the spring assembly in place, press the pedal downward and remove.

Well this will be my free second mod when I get a '02 manual, first will be the MK II muffler mod. Thanks for the info.

When I test drove my '00 C2, there was this "ping" when the clutch pedal went all the way down, very high pitched, sounded like an electronic beep almost. Is THAT caused by this spring thingy??

cool thanks the diagram and instruction really cleared everything up, going ot go do that right now

Wow! I had no idea how much I disliked that spring. Good mod, guys.

I think I'd call it more like a squeak. That spring part has been updated at least once and there's at least one TSB on the issue. Dealer lubed mine while the car was in for RMS and IMS repair. ;-) Bill

are you guys serious?????????????????? I am going to the garage right now...

Just remove the battery size assembly. Item 13 in the diagram on the previous page.

CORRECTION - I think 1999Porsche911 meant item #9 in the diagram.

Whoa....what a difference guys...thank you! Here are some pics that I took of the pieces removed The pieces are much larger than I had expected. 1. I definitely had to remove the "vent" piece...made things a lot easier. 2. If you have race/aluminum pedals, wear a head band...I have a nice couple of small cuts on my forehead trying to wedge myself in there 3. I used a flat screwdriver and a pair of needlenose to get the job done 4. I am glad I am 5 7" at 170 lbs...larger guys...get your girlfriend to do it...LOL!! Conclusion...spend 10 minutes doing it...definitely worth it. When I took her for a test drive, I had second thoughts after the first 2 clutch applications...but after driving it around the block, I wondered how did I ever live with the car the way the clutch operated before.... I would not call htis a spring...it is a freakin' coilover!!! I lost 1/2 a lb.!!

Yes, Tim's correction of my incorrection is correct. Thanks Tim.

Is this thing on a turbo? TIA JB

OK, I just did it. Definitely feels better, and it's definitely heavy. We'll see how it feels on track with the SSK. Most recent manual BMWs (since the E39 and including the E46 330i) have a valve in the hydraulic system that limits the rate at which the clutch can close/engage. The purpose of this is to help the driver engage the clutch more progressively/smoothly. The effect of it is to make you look like you've been driving stick for about a week. There's a company called Zeckhausen that sells modified versions of this valve that are opened up for $35. It's not really necessary though, and on my E53 X5 I just removed it altogether. Effort is still light, but the feel and control are much improved. Tell your friend(s). http://www.zeckhausen.com/CDV.htm

I may be slow, but since the spring looks like a strut, how does it make the clutch pedal feel easier, if it takes more effort to press the clutch pedal having to force the spring open??

When the pedal is in the most upwardly position, the spring is compressed. The natural position of the spring it to be uncompressed so it pushes the pedal downward on it's pivot.

The spring pushes in the same direction as your foot when you depress the clutch, assisting your foot. It's positioned in such a way that it doesn't provide assist until the clutch is maybe 20% depressed.

Oh...so the one in the photos above has the pin or something stuck in to keep the spring in the compressed position - confusing me!

Yup. But a stock turbo is a touring sedan and not a sports car, so sissy controls are ok.

The pin is NOT part of the assembly but was put in to remove the unit. Without the pin, the piston will want to retract into the casing, pushing the spring outward towards the front of the car..

In the photo it's the ziptie keeping it together. The spring is perhaps 4.5" long when extended.

Not quite that long, but yes, you get the idea. In the picture, if you remove the tie the spring will extend out the RIGHT side of the unit, pressing the pedal towards the floor.

Just did this and I would like to thank you all very much. I have been driving a manual car for over 10 years and this is the only car that I stall every once in a while. Now it feels like a normal manual.

Big problem... I tried this tonight ('02 C2) and I pulled the pin almost all the way out and it hit the gold bracket so it won't come all the way out (pin #8 in gota911's post). Throughout the whole travel of the clutch I can't get a clear shot to remove the pin. So, I tried to put the pin back in and it is proving impossible to get the tip to line up with the other side of the bracket. Do any of you have an idea? Right now I am screwed big time since the car is not drivable.

I know what you mean, but keep monkeying with it, mine stuck there for a minute but I think I did a combo of pressing the clutch all the way and pushing with the pliers at the same time, it eventually popped out.

Push the clutch all the way to the floor (use both hands to get it there, then one to hold it). You should then be able to swing the whole spring assembly down so it hangs vertical. You should also be able to move the top of the spring assembly (it is not fixed in place) to help. Good luck.

I assume that removing this spring won't cause faster wear to the pedal or any other clutch components..right? Was this spring put in after people complained about the 993's tough pedal?

It is just another "sissy" device and removing it will cause no harm to anything.

Ok, I see what you mean. My pin is out far enough now that it hits a nut attached to the gold bracket preventing me from pressing the clutch all the way down. Did you remove the pin with the clutch depressed all the way? I'm kinda stuck.

I got it! My problem was that the pin was out part way and the clutch was not depressed making it impossible to depress the clutch all the way. With a couple of screw drivers placed between the spring and pedal assembly, and the clutch 50% depressed (as far as I could go) it finally popped out. Lessoned learned on trying quick mods at 9pm on Sunday. Thanks for your help RamVA and Sean.

So the correct way is to depress the clutch all the way, then pull that pin out? When do you insert the nail into that hole to keep the spring compressed?

The FIRST thing you do is to insert the nail.

So, insert nail, then push the clutch with your hands? Wouldn't that be hard when the spring isn't helping you? I guess I could wait till I actually HAVE my 996 before asking all these questions!

Once the nail is in, remove the pin holding the spring assembly to the pedal, then push pedal down.

Then, while I'm there, I'll install my new ignition switch before putting back the air duct!

helpful hints: DON'T DO THIS ON A FULL STOMACH LIKE I DID, YOU WILL GET SICK 1. remove the plastic air ducting thats in the way 2. remove the elecrtical switch by disconecting the terminal and twisting switch 90 degrees 3. I found it easier NOT to remove the clip and pin in the plastic male clevis 4. insert a nail or short piece of wire thru the hole in the pin that extends thru the back side of the sping canister to prevent the spring from fully extending upon removal 5. depress the clutch pedal as necessary and pry the complete spring and canister forward to release it from the gold bracket 6. maneuver the spring assembly so as it will drop out as the pedal is depressed fully

once you are wedged in there it will ALL make sense... The pin has to be "monkeyed" around with for it to come out...it is not a "smooth" process but after a minute or so it will give...

aaaaaaaaaaaaand...if you have race/aluminum pedals, stick some duct tape or tape some rags to the edge of the clutch pedal otherwise you will end up hitting yourself pretty good on the tater....does NOT feel very good. Thanks again to ALL that contributed to this. Maybe there should be a "sticky" placed on this DIY mod....

You know?, it's funny. I explained this mod years ago and it never took off. Now, everyone wants to do it. I think that those who do it will get a better driving experience without this "sissy" device.

I think it just sounded a LOT harder than it was...and there were probably no actual pictures to show the process... And by the way, I must say you were my favorite person yesterday... Thanks again!

So, do you like the new feel and control?

okay..... looks like i am in on this mod as well.... never knew why i've been driving manual for the pass 15 years and i have absolutely NO automatic, i would stall with this car....... Thanks for the heads up..... Now..... can we get a group together to do this and the SSk...........? WHOSE IN???????????? looking for Socal PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

Those who just did the hack: How about some driving impressions? Sounds like a perfect complement to upgraded suspension and SSK to tighten up the car.

I did it just before taking the car out to have lunch today. The cartridge in my '99 is the old style in which the pin on the pedal is not held captive by the cartridge, so removal was trivial: just put a cotter pin in the hole in the rod, depress the pedal all the way to the floor and wiggle the cartridge out. Pedal effort is substantially increased and in fact seems to be more than the effort required on the clutch of my F-250 diesel truck. But because there isn't a lot of pedal assist just as you approach the clutch engagement point, it's easier to pick up the engagement point quickly. And because the cartridge pivot point is no longer in there, the little annoying squeaks are gone. One downside on my car is that the pedal now has a little play when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal fully out), making positive operation of the cruise control release switch a little problematic. This may be due to the earlier design present on my car as the later design uses a different pedal, which may have a different pivot point or may position the CC switch differently, or may be due to a pushrod adjustment issue - I don't know. But even without that minor problem, I think it's too much pedal effort for my daily driver. I think I'd be happier with some assist, and will look for a lower-rate (maybe 1/2?) spring to replace the stock spring in the cartridge.

You should have no problem with cruise control. Make sure the piston on the switch if pulled out fully.

1. My pedal has the squeak, so that immediately peaked my interest. 2. I ride through heavy traffic regularly, so is this mod not a consideration for me? My 911 is my one and only car. Mixed blessing I guess.

Even without the spring, the clutch operation is only half of what many of the old cable controlled clutches were. Can't imagine it being a problem for anyone who has legs.

The right spray fixes the squeak.

Thought you weren't supposed to lube that spring/cartridge? What spray is this that cures the squeak?

2. I probably wouldn't do it unless you have a lot of problems with it now. It's pretty heavy without the spring.

+1 If you can walk or your legs can carry your body weight without too much problem, you should be able to deal with the clutch just fine without the assist spring. It only feels hard because you are used to the feeling of stepping on a marshmallow instead of a clutch pedal. I can still push it easily with my left arm, that I have severly broken twice and has mucsle tissue that never grew back as well as 13 screws in the ulna and radius. If your leg is significantly weaker than my arm, you may have a problem in heavy stop and go rush hour traffic. Otherwise get after it and don't look back. Oh, BTW the biggest reason my 996 was a pain in heavy stop and go traffic was the fact that the clutch had no feel and its like you were alway guessing where the engagement point was. Often having to over rev more than necessary and somewhat slipping the clutch and waiting for engagement to happen. If I didn't rev it enough and let the pedal out too abruptly, the motor would kill and I'd have to endure the painful embarassment of restarting the car and trying again. This mod will make heavy traffic and stop and go driving much more pleasent, and shoud dramatically increase cluth life.

Wow, you need a mod to fix your arm!!

Probably white lithium grease...

I'm glad I'm not a retard. I have been driving manual transmission cars for the last 22 years and I kill the 911 at least once a week. I will have to give this a shot...

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Do the 993's come with this spring device?

On the earlier design, the spring works to return the pedal as it nears full retraction. Without the spring, the pedal doesn't load the cruise control switch unless I put my foot under the pedal and pull it out. And then the next bump I hit is usually enough to unload the switch. The geometry must be different with the later design.

The condition of the clutch disc has a lot to do with how much force is required to operate the pedal so what might work in one car can be a total nightmare in another. Some testing that Porsche did on prior models to diagnose stiff clutch pedal complaints showed a 90% reduction in pedal force by replacing only the clutch disc. It has something similar but you don't want to remove it. Without it the clutch will not engage and disengage properly 100% of the time but you won't notice it at the pedal, only a few thousand miles later when you start having trouble shifting the transmission into gear.

I've been driving stick shift cars and trucks all my life and yet I stall my 2000 C2 at least once every couple of weeks. When I first got the car, I'd stall it two to three times a day. Once I stalled the friggin thing twice in a row - with dealer plates on it. Boy did I feel like a rookie idiot. He11 I could go years without stalling the F150 pickup I used to have. Now I know why. I'll give this mod a try soon.

Even if you do this mod and quit stalling your p-car, you may still be a retard!

I'm driving a March 1998 built model with no problems. Try bleeding the clutch. You can also adjust the anodized bracket and move the pedal slightly.

Interesting mod. Does a MY2000 have this newer designed clutch geometry? PS - How easy would it be to put the spring back in if one disliked the new stiffness?

In 1999, the pedal and boost spring was redesigned, but the change of the pedal is irrelevant. As far as this mod goes, all 996's have the same setup, regardless of when it was built. Yes, the mod can easily be reversed.

915 transmission cars, ~1977 to ~1986 had a horseshoe spring shaped like the Greek letter Omega at the transmission. Not sure about 911/964 with G50. 993 has a boost spring at the pedal cluster.

it is a good thing you are an anonymous internet person because this would normally earn you a punch in the nuts.

I see no insult here. Just one Rennlister, kidding around with another Rennlister.

Only a retard would take offense to that jab.

LOL!

so what you are saying is...as long as someone uses a stupid smiley, it is okay to say things you would never say to someone you barely know? You sure are a big fat idiot!

Hamilton, come on man, that was clearly said in jest. Because you're part of this community (actually now that I look, I noticed you're not a paying member), we assume that we're all quasi-friends who share a bond as a result of our love for Porsches. Come on, read it again, it was playful, and definitely something I would say to a buddy that I was joking around with....

Andy is not fat.

Man no offense but you need to take a chill pill!! Tim was just joking with you and yes (from what I know of Tim) he'd have no problem saying this to you in person. Fear not, if you hang out here for a little longer your skin will get thicker.

damn... a punch in the NUTS? that's gotta hurt.............. i think ?

When I was on the basketball team in high school, the captain of the team was a huge tool and his idea of having a laugh was to just call some random kid a bunch of names or make fun of his clothes or something. I was usually the only one who would tell him to knock it off. If you look at my other posts, I think it is pretty evident that I'm really not that serious. I guess I've always had a little bit of a hair-trigger about that same sort of "just joking around." I don't mind being hazed but if anyone has ever seen "The Man With Two Brains" with Steve Martin, this sort of thing is the equivalent of saying "cleaning woman" to me. And littering...I hate littering. I have gotten into three fights confronting litterers. Maybe I do have some issues...hmmmm. Sorry for temporarily hijacking the thread.

Anyway... I was so smitten with this post that I snuck home in the rain today at lunch and wedged myself in the footwell. WOW!! This is such a change. Will take a little getting used to, but I think I really like it. Much less pedal travel. Pedal may not come back enough on my 99 to depress the cruise switch. If I need to, I'll superglue a pencil eraser on the tip of the switch so it will function. REALLY different feel and much more pressure required when releasing the clutch pedal. Anyone who does not complete this mod is a retard.

I worry that it might not seem like too much effort when driving on clear roads, but hitting the Parkway in the summer beach traffic with a "racing clutch" might not be fun!?

Just did it. Great "mod." A couple of notes: 1) If you EVER, I mean EVER, want to replace the apparatus back, use a pin or nail instead of a wire at the end of the piston. If you use a wire, the K of the spring might be strong enough to slightly bend the wire. This will allow the spring to uncompress enough NOT to be able to put it back. The spring's K is pretty high, I tried to compress it to at least 1mm or 2mm to be able to put a nail instead of the wire that I used but no cigar. 2) It's easier NOT to remove the pin and lock as nick49 stated on Post #52. Just depress the clutch pedal enough to loosen the unit.

Hmm I have never had any stalling problems with the stock setup. Any other converts?

I LOVE it. That's a pretty definitive approval of this mod! So, the spring helps to *release* the clutch..ie bring the pedal up to the top? Does that mean it takes more effort to depress the thing. I'm (easily apparantly) confused. thx

The spring helps to push the pedal down the floor.

OK - just looked at the diagram and see exactly how it works. I guess I could have taken the time to do that *before* I posted and made myself look dumber than I actually am. I see it doesn't really begin to act until the pedal is down 1/4 of the way or so. Perhaps I can expect a kind of "over centre" feel. Remember I'm (anxiously) awaiting the delivery of my new car, so I haven't actually felt the effect yet. Just rying to get into a groove here. Glad to see these cars are as interesting to play with as the old cars.

You and me both! I get my car on Friday. And these 996 guys weren't kidding about mods - I have two planned before I even have the car!

I'm definitely going to try this mod this weekend. While I've rarely ever stalled the car (all doubter, please note that I did say 'rarely' and not 'never'), I always felt that getting off the line in the car was always a little weak. I wasn't sure if it was the throttle engagement drive by wire, a worn clutch (doubtful with only 16k miles), or something with the motronic control at low revs. Now, it seems that it's simply a desensitized clutch as a result of PCNA's desire to make things easier for the ladies. Having driven Ferraris here and there a bit, a harder clutch does not necessitate a harder driving experience. Actually, if the clutch feels more responsive and engagement is smoother, than it can actually be easier on the leg since you're spending less time on the clutch trying to feel your way back into gear (something I quite often do with the Porsche). Anyway, seems easily reversible if the feel is not to my liking. Thanks again for the great tip (and 1999, don't know how this passed by without notice when you posted it a while back...go figure).

There is no doubt that eliminating the spring greatly increases the ability to feather the clutch at will. The design of the spring makes it want to jump near the top of the pedal stroke.

I did the mod this morning before going to work. Mikey likes it!

me neither...and I still did it...I don't know how I was able to live with the car before...it is like a new car now...

They make medicine for that...

So far, all but one who has done the mod has liked it. Probably gonna have to try it also.......

so it only takes around 10 mins and a plier..... am i missing anything else?

Nope, you are not missing anything, other than putting the nail in the piston first.

thanks......... 1999porsche911

The only other concern with doing this mod....if you are not as young and as limber as you think you are.......make sure there is someone within calling distance to help pull you out from under the dash when the job is done.

damn... i think i might have a problem then.....

To be clear, I've done the mod and am not entirely convinced. I'm withholding judgment until after tomorrow at the track.

You need a porsche 996, pliers, and 10 mins.

i knew i was in trouble..... although i do have the pliers and perhaps 12 mins......

a flathead also helps as the tab that holds the piece in place sometimes is VERY tight and you have to use the leverage of the holders (with the screwdriver) to pry it out. I would definitely use duck tape on the end/edge of the pedals (especially if you have aluminum pedals )..trust me on this.

Hamilton � first off, if I offended you, I apologize. I can assure you that there was absolutely no malice intended in my comment. However, I think you over reacted to my comment. I was not trying to get away with a caustic, sarcastic remark by hiding behind a smiley icon. If you re-read your original post (quoted below), you inferred that you thought you may be a retard (your inference, not mine) because you had stalled your P-car. Then when this thread started, you had the revelation that others here had also stalled their P-cars, so you inferred that you were glad to realize that you were �not a retard.� I was just playing along with your original jab at yourself, which I thought was a very light-hearted comment. I did not call you anything that you had not called yourself. I did not attack you or call you a big, fat idiot. I was merely laughing with you, not at you. If you have read any of my other posts, you know that I do a lot of kidding around with a lot of guys here, and none of it has EVER had any malicious intent. Since you obviously can not take a joke or any kind of kidding, I can assure you that there will be no chance of any future misunderstandings because, in the future, I will not reply to any of your posts. Once again, I apologize if I offended you.

By the way, am I the only one that threw up after doing this mod? I did it Sunday morning after 2 cups of strong coffee. I'm lucky I hadn't eaten anything. Anyway it was challenging as being 6' 190 lbs with broad shoulders, I didn't fit under there very well. And to make matters worse, the spring thing and pivot area was at a distance where it was out of focus with or without my glasses. I had to imagine what needed to be done and fiddle around with tools by feel. I never did remove the ventilation conduit, just tried working around it. It took me longer than it should have mainly because I was working around the switch and bumped it hard enough that it came apart. I had to figure out how to put it together and it jambed up so I had to remove it and try again. All the time I'm upside down and my coffee is not wanting to go up hill to get digested. I finally got it done and wiggled out of the small confine of the work area, stood up and started...you know the rest.

You should have removed the vent. It takes 2 seconds and saves alot of grief. I also used glass frames with little LED lights on each side to light my way through.

gota911- I haven't been a member long but learned early that you have a great sense of humor and I totally cracked up when I red your retard reply. Not laughing at hamilton-just laughing cause its funny.

Uh-oh - this sounds a LOT like me, except 6'0" 215 lbs and a bad neck as well. I gotta say under dash work is my LEAST favourite kind!

Arnee, are you serious? Did you make this yourself or buy it?

The list of required tools should also include a barf bag I guess!? Geez. talk about giving it your all! Under-dash work is annoying, but once I wiggle in there, I stay focused and try and get the job done the first time! Nothing worse than wiggling under your dash, only to find you forgot your screw driver!

They come in a 2-pack at Costco.

No, I already had it. I bought it from Home Depot or Lowes a few years ago, can't remember which. Something like this but without the lower frame nor lens since I already wear glasses:

heheh the same can be said for something about that statement sounds dirty.

Ha! It did kinda sound like prison talk!

Arnee, those glasses are awesome! I'd love to wear those out in NYC one night just to watch people's reactions.

That would be awesome! Lighting up all the good looking girls, totally getting busted!

Tim, No sweat man. I did over-react. I was having a bad day and I snapped. I really appreciate your taking the time to reply. Grant

I have read the 9 pages so far and I think I have it down. I got under the dash for a few minutes (yes, I did feel woozy afterwards...) and saw how relatively easy it should be, but I just want to confirm a few things. 1- insert pin/nail and the end of the rod (very obvious where it goes) 2- I have the "old style" clamp onto the clutch pedal (think of merely a "C" clamp). To remove I just pry it open with a flat head screwdriver? Do I just press the clutch in after the nail has been placed? 3- How do I get the "canister" out from the gold bracket? It has two tabs from where it pivots that appear to be screwed in (can't see too well). There is no room for a screwdriver in my case. I just want to make sure I do this in such a manner that it would be completely reversible in case I don't like it. I know its meant to be that way, just want to be 100% sure before I do something that I later regret.

1 - Yes 2 - If you have the pin in it should more or less fall off the clutch once you push the clutch in. It might need a little encouragement 3 - Once it's free of the clutch pedal it should wiggle out. It's not screwed in at all, it stays in place from the spring pressure.

Thanks. I just got done doing this (less than 5 minutes!). Tip for those doing this, if you are going to use a nail, make sure its one with at least 2" long so it does not fall out easily. In my case, I put the nail in, fully depressed the clutch and at the same time, with 2 fingers, wiggled loose the canister from the pedal and then just wiggled the canister from the gold brackets. Really nothing to it. Now to test drive the car and see if there is any noticeable difference (I "suffered" from the "stall problem").

BTW: I patented this mod, so you each owe me a cup of coffee to avoid lawsuit.

This mod has gone viral! Interwebs, lol. Not sure why it didn't catch on sooner, I know you did it years ago, but like many others, I just happened to click on this thread, and then went down to the garage...

If I didn't forget to bring a nail with me, I would do this mod before driving the car home for the first time! I guess I'll have to do it tomorrow, after my hour and a half drive home tonight. At least I will have a base to compare the mod to.

Well, I am glad most here like this mod, but for me, I did not like it. The clutch is now a tad too stiff for my taste and the force with which the pedal wants to spring back up is radically different (not to my liking). I also noticed a bit of side to side play on the pedal. To top it off, I could only engage the cruise control if I put my foot behind the clutch and pulled it up a tad more (yes, I did verify that the sensor was fully extended out). Now for the "fun" part: I have tried to reverse this "mod" and all it has gotten me is 25 minutes of cursing, nausea, and nearly poking my eye out (fortunately, the nail landed next to my eye and cut me instead of poking me in the eye). Maybe something else besides a nail to hold the piston in? I can tell there is a lot of pressure as it has slightly bent the nail. After all this time, I still cannot get the damn thing back in there. The grease from the spring is not making things easier. So, anyone else reversed this with any luck?

I have had mine in and out at leat a dozen times. Not difficult. I also have no problem with the cruise control and mine is a very early 99 model. Did you bleed your clutch properly?

I had a brand new clutch (stock OEM) put in 11 months ago and 4K miles ago by the dealership. Not sure if they bled the clutch or not, but will call and find out (doubt they will admit to any wrongdoing). Mine is a 98 RoW model. Please walk me on the re install process. Do you first put the canister on the gold bracket? Clutch in or out when doing this? Do you instead clip the canister onto the pedal first and then try to get it into the gold brackets? (doubt it, that is how I nearly lost my eye and now have a small hole cut in my forehead that I need a shot for....). I noticed that there are two black receptacles on the gold brackets that are designed to receive the pivot points from the canister, but getting them (pivot points) into these receptacles is proving to be a lot harder than originally imagined.

You just need to press the pedal doward slightly, insert boost assembly pivot nipples in the bracket and let the pedal come back into position while tilting boost spring properly to meet pedal connection. Make sure boost spring braket is loose.

Will give it another shot later this afternoon (after I get this nausea under control). I called the dealer and they just laughed as to what I was doing. $70 (1 hour of labor) to undo this for me. I am tempted to do so, silly as that may sound, I know....

The first time I did it, I had trouble too. Just make sure you DO NOT pull the nail out until you are SURE the spring is secure, otherwsie, you could LOSE an eye rather than just cut it. Also, do you have the new pedal that was specified in a TSB for the early cars?

I am having the cruise control problem on my '01 as well.

If your pedal is not coming in contact with the cruise control switch, (which you should not have) you can simply extend the nipple on the pedal that contacts the switch. Not a big problem. Or you can extend the length of the switch' plunger.

Well, I finally did it. Amazing how a set of "fresh eyes" can get this done very quickly. Went in, pushed the pedal halfway down, first got the driver side of the nipple into the bracket, all of the sudden the passenger side also got into the bracket. I slowly let the clutch back out and it quickly pressed into the pedal as well as the canister into the pivot points on the brackets. I unfortunately did not notice that I put the canister with the nail head pointing to the top, so I had to fiddle around with it for a minute to twist it around at which point the nail slipped my fingers and landed on my lip (sharp tip first). Yeap, another cut. This has been the most nauseating and painful mod yet! HA!

Andy - you have to drive it stock first for a baseline. I personally would not consider this mod until I understood the "problem". So you're that close are you. My car will be under my *** on Monday morning.....then it's a week of certification, then it's a week long business trip to Germany (with a side trip to the Nurburgring) then FINALLY I'll be licensing the car for real. Good luck with yours and let me be the first to tell you to *POST SOME DAMNED PICS*

I located a spring which is about half the rate of the stock spring (32 lb/in vs 61 lb/in), and feel that it provides the perfect balance for my car. I bought two of them to offset the $20 service charge for low-quantity orders, so if somebody else would like to try the half-rate spring, PM me.

I have a question about a possible serious issue with this modification. I did this procedure last week to my '02 C4. Yes, the clutch feels tighter, more sure. But.... I read somewhere (possibly in the factory service manual) that this spring has two functions. 1) To aid in depressing the clutch against the pressure plate springs and 2) to return the pedal to the fully up position. I noticed when removing the assembly, that the spring was in fact an overcenter arrangement, extending on both ends of the stroke. I have a small amount of free play in the pedal (maybe 1/4 inch?) and the pdeal is not held fully up without this booster spring inplace. While driving, if I put my foot against the side of the pedal, I can feel a vibration. If I pull the pedal up with my foot, the vibration disappears as the pedal comes up to the top of its stroke. My diagnosis of this situation is that possibly the pedal weight is keeping the pedal down at the end of its free play so that the throwout bearing is supporting the clutch pedal, not a return spring. If true,this would mean that the throwout bearing is alway spinning. Not sure if I like this arrangement. On the basis of having to pull the motor to prematurely replace a throwout bearing, I've decided to undo this modification, no matter how much it hurts to lay in the floor of the cockpit, upside down. I had no objections to the way the pedal fealt before the removal, just did it to see if it was better. I will oil the spring before reinstallation, although it did not cure the low pedal squeak as claimed earlier in this thread. Thoughts?

Hey, how would you get the assembly back into the car if the spring is un-compressed (after swapping the 61 for the 32)?

You compress the cartridge and put the pin back in before you attempt to put the cartridge back in the pedal assembly.

I don't think the free play you refer to is engaging the throwout bearing as this is a hydraulic clutch. The weight of the plastic pedal is not enough to overcome the spring in the clutch master cylinder and activate the slave. I would like to eliminate the excess pedal play as well and I think I will use a press or vice to disassemble the spring and canister and relpace with a much lighter spring to return the pedal to the fully up position. This will also allow the cruise control switch to function normally. Now that I've driven without the booster spring for a couple of weeks, I don't think I could go back. There are a lot of hills in my neighborhood as I live near the mountains and the original design masks the friction point and lacks feel.

PM sent

Interesting! I guess your extra spring is already spoken for?

Doug already has a couple of guys lined up for the spring, so it's clear that we need to organize a group buy. I think it needs a minimum of ten (correct me if I'm wrong Doug). So add your name to the list and I'll put it together. So far, I make +1.

Stanm5 +1

Andyk +1 (assuming a weaker spring doesn't make the pedal feel a little less lame instead of great) Also, if the clutch pedal doesn't return high enough to hit the cruise control switch, that means cruise control wont work at all, right? What would be the best way (aside from putting in a lighter spring) to extend the cruise switch plunger, or, the clutch pedal surface - to solve this problem and keep the spring-free clutch pedal? PS--I did this mod last night, but havent taken the car out yet due to the huge rain we have been having. My back and shoulders are still sore, but all went well. Just pushing the pedal in and out with the car off was interesting. VERY stiff, but smooth!

You know guys - I just drove my new-to-me 2002 996, which has a brand new clutch and flywheel, and neither the pedal effort, nor the feel of the take up is an issue for me. It feels great, I can detect where the clutch begins to grab, and can modulate it easily. I don't think I'll stall the car with the current setup. There is a squeek though... So, I don't think I'll be rushing out and doing this mod anytime soon. I guess after a while I'll know better, but it seem to me that I'll only become more familiar with the feel of the current setup. If those lighter weight springs work out then I might, but again - I'm in no rush. Does this make me a retard? PS - my first impression of this 996 is that we're going to get along JUST FINE!!! This thing goes like stink.

Congrats Jasper! Maybe the '02's clutch pedal/spring combo is better than the MK1 version? My pedal felt like it had way too much travel, and, felt like a toy, noises and all. I am anxious to try the new stiff pedal feel out on the road. Maybe if it stops raining tonight...?

I went into the shop today and took my booster spring apart. I found several springs that would work and fit one that will give approx the same compression and extension as the original but so light that I can compress it fully with my fingers. It is much smaller in diameter, approx 3/8" ID and about 3.5" long. It should be enough to return the pedal to the original position and make the CC function. I left it at the shop so maybe I'll remember it tomorrow and will report back how it works.

Cool! Post photos too. And see if you notice strange hollow spring noises when you use the clutch.

I like the "glue a pencil eraser head on the switch" idea, gonna try it.

Me too. Maybe something a little more solid. Maybe a bic pen cap, or just the top 1/4 inch, glued on top of the little plunger? Rubber to plastic doesn't glue very well.

oh yeah the pen cap on the switch trick

Today being my day off, and having time to fool around with my car, made it worthwhile to drive back to the shop (24 miles R/T) and pick up my modified booster spring. Again a frustrating experience for me to fit under there and fit the assembly in place. My arms from hands to elbows are just a little on the long side and shoulders a tad wide to do the job easily. But at least I didn't get sick like the first time. It went in fine (Ha) and I went for a test drive. The CC now works flawlessly and the clutch pedal springs back to full extension with no lash and I have the feel of a real clutch. BTW in an earlier post I mentioned fitting a weak, probably 2-3# spring I found in my shop in the canister. Also the std spring is 4" long when removed.

I just tried my car without the spring, and I think I love it! Pedal has less travel, and the shifts are crisp and smooth compared to with the spring. And, my CC works fine without the spring for some reason.

It's awesome, isn't it? Quick shifts w/o jerking like a manual-newbie.

Yes, the shifting is quicker! I guess the stronger spring back forces you to release the pedal in a smooth, quick motion, allowing faster shifting. And without the spring, it seems the pedal travel has decreased a lot - at least it feels like that! Overall, it just feels more natural. The removal of the spring makes the pedal feel like it's part of your leg! And, it feels more like a race car, rather than a mush ball! Are we sure removing this spring wont break anything??

Our knees?

Good point! When I first tried it, I thought "Uh oh, this is very stiff". By the time my ride was over, I was totally used to it--like others have said. It's all what you are used to. Of course, getting stuck in traffic might make me beg for the spring!

anyone in socal wanna meet up and help me do this....? i looked under the car and i have no idea what i am looking at......... anyone have a pic....? not diagram.......

If you can stick yourself under the dash, and remove that vent tube, it's kinda easy. You look at the top of the clutch pedal, and you will see the spring canister, looking like the photo on page 2(?). Put a pin or nail in the hole, use a plyers to pull the retaining clip on the pin, push the pin out as far as you can, then push the clutch all the way down with your arm. The pin should wobble out, and the canister with the spring should be loose enough to work free from the bracket. Done!

cool andy.... ill give that a try......

OK, My thinking to extending the switch (CC) or extending the "tit" on the pedal is all wrong. THE REAL SOLUTION IS that the clutch isnt reaching its full upright position and its not reaching its bump stop, hence having 1/4" play. Ding, Ding, Ding. I took a piece of vacuum hose (@1" long and 3/8" diam) and tie wrapped up against the clutch bumpstop. Now, no clutch play and CC works just fine. I also found out that the CC switch is adjustable in length, just pull or push till you hear a click. It also helps to remove the CC switch while trying to tie wrap the piece of hose. Just turn the CC switch and pull out. All you need is one tie wrap, I tie wrapped the 1" hose right in the middle of the clutch bumpstop, no more clutch play. This is way better than a pencil eraser... Cheers

I can help you, but I'm in Riverside and I believe you're in SD... it's up to you if you want to drive that far for a 15 min job.

do you know how to do the short shifter as well Arnee A? if so, that's well worth the time.......

Interesting! I was trying to think of another way! Does gluing a piece of rubber make more sense than tying a piece of hose on there? I don't remember how much surface space there is on the backstop. Can you post a photo??

actually the hose is perfect cause it acts like a spring when it is compressed by the clutch. Gluing rubber would work but you have to get one that is about .25"-.35"...but I think thats the benefit of the vacuum hose as it comforms to the desired thickness that the clutch need to rest on when it compresses it. I tried to post pics before. here goes

Hard to see, but looks like a fat vacuum hose. I'll give that a try! Since my cruise control works minus the spring, I may just leave everything alone. Having LESS clutch pedal travel is better!

No, I haven't done a short shifter. Seriously, go under there and take a look. Pull the vent tube by hand sideways -- it will give a clearer picture.

You two guys should get together and do both mods, clutch spring and SSK. SSK is not that difficult. The first SSK install will take you 2 to 2.5 hours, the second will take 1.5 hours or less. BTW - There are a lot of guys here that have the experience and info to help if you need it.

that's what i'm saying.... we should get a socal get together for these mods........ WHO'S IN??????

Group buy yet?

Im in, what are we buying, a spring? yeah Im in

Yeah, a half-power spring, to reduce the clutch pedal assistance for a happy medium feel to the clutch pedal!

I sent one of the springs I had to nycebo on Monday. He should have it today or tomorrow, was going to try it out, and if it feels right on his car one of us will buy a quantity of them for resale at cost (~$10 + postage) to the list.

Cool. BTW, how do we compress the spring to release it slowly, and to fit the lighter one in the housing?

I just squeezed mine...by hand not

Do you mean "I just squeezed mine...by hand not"

No, really...how?

How about in a vise.

I was hoping someone will tell me, but when the spring comes, might have to rig something, shouldnt be to difficult, 2 long bolts, piece of bar...sorta like a spring compressor

Doug mailed his extra spring to me so that I can verify that it works on 2000 year cars and up. I'll install it as soon as I get it, make sure that it fits, and then get the group buy going. This way, we are all assured of a good fit! Thanks again to Doug for his help and the great idea.

Actually, this is a great question. ABSOLUTELY wear some protective glasses so that you don't lose and eye if the springs recoils quickly and shoots out.

Great, let us know on how you decide to install (compress) the spring, good looking out on the safety first capaign

It's possible to just grip the cartridge with both hands and compress the end down on the work bench if you have a helper to remove the cotter pin or nail that you used to secure the piston. This is what I did, but a vise is probably a better option (in spite of having a large inventory of tools, MIG welder, 60 gal. air compressor, 12 ton hydraulic press, etc., I still don't have a vise). Be sure to protect the end that fits the pin on the pedal so that you don't break it by applying force in a place that it wasn't designed to handle. A suitably-sized piece of steel stock or screwdriver, supported by wood blocks, will work for that. The compressed spring is exerting over 90 lbs. of force, so you definitely want to exercise caution and wear safety glasses or a face shield when you do this.

I have to buy a vise, if the lighter spring is a hit.

RamVA +1

Pedal travel should be unchanged (other than the slight free play at the top). If you are perceiving a shorter stroke I suspect you're not getting the pedal to the floor.

I'll take one

me two

I'm in - jasper.

im in... even though i haven't done the mode yet....... but if there's a GB... im in....

It must be the small free play, causing the pedal to be lower to start with? Maybe I better put that spring back in there!

That's a very small difference.

Hey guys, I just got the spring from Doug (thanks again for the idea and sending me the spring to test) yesterday. I'm going to install it tomorrow, do some comparison tests (full OEM spring, half spring, and removed) and then get back to you all to finalize the order (having toyed around with the half rate spring, it is quite firm nonetheless, so I'm thinking it's a very good compromise). Indeed, at that point, I'll create a thread for the group buy so that it's easy for everyone to see. Here's who has expressed interest so far: nycebo, Stanm5, AndyK, redridge, RamVA, Ray S, jasper, Porsche_Smile Looking forward to tomorrow's test.

Just removed mine last night. It is a little too stiff for my old left leg. But, stock is toooooooo soft. I am in for the half force spring.

I wonder how Porsche chose the heavy spring - trial and error, until a 10 year old could use the clutch? I await your test results Ed!

Me too! If you like it, sign me up for the improved spring buy.

FWIW I've been driving around without the spring assist for a couple of weeks now and I don't even notice it being stiffer. It's still easier than the foot clutch on my old Harley Panhead, and probably easier than the hand clutch on my Heritage Softail. Give it some time and I think with the much improved feel, will forget about it being a little harder. I have my seat in the lowest setting and back tilted so maybe it gives me some sort of mechanical advantage with my leg angle???

I have a 2000 and the clutch is way to heavy without the spring. I love that I can now feel the clutch pick up. One of my only complaints with the car before. I was going to put the spring back it as the car will not be enjoyable anymore when I hit traffic. Hopefully the GB spring will be a good compromise. If it works I am in!! I would be ecstatic to get this clutch dialed in. Thank you all for putting this together.

OK, I tried putting back the spring, to see how it compares to the no-spring clutch, and, to see if I could do it for when I get the half power spring. Anyway, I could NOT get the pin back in the original way. No matter how I tried, the bracket get's in the way, and there's no room to maneuver the pin back into the pedal. I had to put the spring in the other way, but now the retaining clip wont go on (because of the extra plastic that holds the nut side of the pin). What do I do? Is that retaining clip needed? If it is, how do I get the pin in when there's no room the other way??

man........... snag #1

Just did the mod - a bit of a pain getting all the way under but once I decided to use some muscle and leverage, I got it out no problem. At first it seemed very hard but after 5 minutes, I decided this was a significant improvement. There is simply no lag. The engagement is quick and smooth. I feel that I am now driving the car as it should be driven. My acceleration and shifts are much quicker. I am not going back and don't think I want to go to a mod spring. The fact that you don't have nearly as much pedal travel, imo, more than makes up for the slight increase in pedal pressure. Keep in mind that pre-mod, you had much more travel so even with less pressure, I think over the long haul you'll end up with more of a work out than with more pressure and less travel - if that makes sense.

I do notice way more travel with the spring back in, even though everyone says there is not much difference in travel. Whatever! I do like the easier shifting with the spring. I am guessing the half spring will do the trick!

Maybe the age of the clutch makes a difference in travel -not sure -my clutch has 2k miles on it and I can say with no doubt I have significantly less travel than pre-mod. Like you said, whatever, I love it.

What about my pin question. For those of you who took the spring out and put it back a few times, how did you get that pin in the correct way? And, with the retaining clip off, what are the chances the pin backs all the way out and the spring falls off?

C'mon guys. I don't want to start a war here, but the pedal has to travel the same distance to disengage the clutch whether there's a spring there to help it or not. The only reasons this would not be are a) without the spring the pedal drops a fraction of an inch from it's topmost position and b) because of the higher effort you're not getting your foot all the way to the floor.

No war - maybe your right - I don't know for sure so I won't argue. What I can say is that, for me, this was a great mod. After one day of driving, I don't notice the pressure increase, I like the feel much better, it at least "feels" like there is less travel, clutch engagement "feels" quicker and smoother, I am shifting quicker and smoother and thus the car is accelerating quicker and smoother. All around, a plus for me. Fair enough ?

drove it all morning, def a great mod...feels like more feedback on engagent and like the siffer feel. No more perdal play here, and cc works fine.

I think what people feel when they say there is less pedal travel is the effect of the short engagement throw of the clutch clutch itseld; from full engagement to full disengagement. The spring makes it feel like you need the whole pedal travel, which is far from the case. In fact, you could half the pedal travel and the clutch would operate fine.

I replaced the OEM spring with one that produces about 1/3 of the original bad effects on clutch-pedal feel and found after several days of driving that it provides a nice compromise between no-spring and the OEM unit. As others have pointed out, I was bothered by what I considered to be excessive play in the pedal when fully released after the OEM spring was removed; maybe 3/4" at the pedal. But on the other hand I definitely appreciated the improved pedal feel w/o the spring. I wanted the best of both approaches. I carefully dismantled the OEM helper-spring unit, measured the original spring, and then searched for possible replacement springs. Watch out when taking this unit apart because this beast has about 85 pounds of force when pinned. I placed the unit�s pin end in the corner between a post and the floor, then used by feet to press down on the body while a helper removed the restraining pin. Re-assembly was a non-issue since the replacement spring is sooo much weaker. The only spring of appropriate size that I found was McMaster-Carr P/N 9657K142 that was in stock and selling for $7 for a set of 6 springs. Ground shipping added anther $4 so the total cost was ~$11. Of course, I now have 5 spares� The photos I wanted to include showed some comparisons between the springs. Unfortunately there is an un-specified minimum number of postings required before I'm permitted to include such attachments. Therefore, if you'd like copies just send me a PM with your e-mail address. Anyway, the key specifications for the OEM vs Replacement springs are: Closed and ground ends. Minimum overall lengths (4-1/8 vs 3-1/2). Springs' inside diameters (0.79 vs 0.77). Wire diameters (0.142 vs 0.120). Number of active coils (12-1/4 vs 10-3/4). Resulting spring rates are about 58lbs/in vs 40. <= I know this doesn't sound like much, but combined with the shorter spring length means there is only about 1/3 as much force applied to the pedal. Re-installation requires about the same amount of pain as removal. Before you start though, remember to check which side the bolt-head-end of the pivot-pin fits back into on the pedal assembly. I initially set the body 90 degrees from normal so that when I pushed the pedal down by hand so I could align the pivot pin with the pedal, then push the body up in to place, and twist it back to where it belongs as I let up on the pedal. Then just pull out the restraining pin. While examining the OEM assembly I noted wear on the pivot pin where it rotates in its bushing; 2000 C4 coupe. This might be the source of the often-reported clutch-pedal squeaks; mine wasn't. I don�t understand Porsche�s caution against applying grease to this spot, but I can tell you that it is probably impossible to get any in to this area while the unit's installed.

hey good info..... if you send me the pics on email, i'll post them here for you.......

Would a weak spring be too weak to move the clutch? I worry a weak spring would wind up doing nothing, and the plastic spring housing would just be sandwiched between the clutch pedal and the clutch--know what I mean?

really the only thing the weeak spring would do is to get rid of the slop (play) in the clutch when not depressed. It will also aid if you want a DD feel.

DD feel?

Daily Driver (light clutch)

Ah. Got it!

Interesting! You put the unit back into the pedal first, put the pin in, then rotate it back into the gold bracket? Will it always rotate right into position, so the nipples (he-he) go back into their receiver holes in the bracket?

My weekend experience : I tested the OEM spring, no spring, and half-rate spring (that Doug sent me) configurations all day yesterday. Sitting up under the dash upside-downish for an hour or two definitely left me a little nauseated, that's for sure. Moreover, the stock spring is definitely hard as hell to compress. While I wore safety glasses the whole time, and never needed them thankfully, I'm glad to have had them because an unexpected release of the spring constantly had me on edge that a body part would go missing in the latter case. Last, reinstallation of the spring container is definitely a hassle until you get the hang of it. It took me about 10-15 mins the first time to get it properly seated. Now, I think I could do it in less than 5. The hardest part is holding the clutch in and out as necessary and rotating the chamber properly into place, particularly since I'm pretty broad shouldered and it's hard to maneuvre down there (photos were out of the question). For tools, I used needlenose pliers, a flashlight, safety glasses, and a small hex wrench (instead of a nail) to hold the spring in place. Definitely remove the air vent for a better view. It really helps. My least favorite setup was with the spring fully removed. The clutch pedals feels mushy and definitely floats at the top of the path. The spring's counterbalance definitely holds it in place up against the cruise control switch. I drove it around for about thirty minutes shifting constantly to get accustomed to it and I just never did. It remained pretty hard and seemed to pop off when I was try to gently slide into gears. It definitely required overt firmness to ensure that I didn't pop the clutch. And bear in mind, that I'm 6'1", 185 lbs and can squat quite a good deal of weight. Moreover, I did not notice the elimation of that slight uncertain feeling when shifting. Frankly, I thinks it's just the way the clutch is set up. All the spring removal seems to do is speed the release of the clutch so your less likely to stall...perhaps. Anyway, I definitely was not sticking with this setup. My next favorite setup was the (drumroll please) half rate spring. Prior to doing the mod, I thought that the half rate spring would be the perfect compromise. Instead, it created the very same feeling as the OEM spring, but just required more effort. So I'm working harder with my leg and just not receiving any noticeable benefit. Indeed, after having driven the clutch without the spring and not liking it, this wasn't that much of a shock. So, for the third time, I weaseled into the footwell, turned over, and reinstalled the stock spring. I'll say flat out that this is not a pleasant experience. Holding the clutch down for three solid efforts just about tried my patience and frustration on this OEM spring, but I finally got it back in properly and locked down with the clip. Ah, just the way I've come to like the feel of the clutch pedal. Smooth and easy in motion with reasonable resistance, but without too much effort. Here are my final thoughts. There is a detante in the at the very onset of the pedal range range the clutch is essentially fully strength because the spring remains somewhat force locked and can't expand. What makes people crazy seems to be as the spring begins to assist @20% of the way into clutch actuation. Pushing in the clutch is easy as the assist comes nearer the beginning of the pedal stroke. However, what seems to make some people stall out is when the clutch is released, and then the spring assist marked decreases during the final 20% of the return. At this point, I think that the clutch pedal is perhaps popping for some drivers and creating the stall as it's released to quickly (as the regular strength of the pedal is unexpectedly raised to full weight). After about 2 hours of test driving the varying clutches yesterday, the key, as I've already discovered with the OEM spring, is to 'expect' this somewhat less-than-gradual increase in clutch 'push-out' and remember to provide a little more throttle as the clutch is released. After acknowledging this behavior, stalling will become a much more unlikely issue. Who knows, maybe a 75% rate spring would be the best compromise, but I'm not going down into the footwell anytime soon. Actually, I'm keen for some metal pedals, so I guess I'll be down there sometime sooner than I would hope for. I hope this helps, and I know, different strokes for different folks. Also, it's worth admitting that I do a lot of stop and go in a metropolitan area, so for you weekend drivers, it may not be shared by you. Worse, I'm a little blue because I was really hoping that the mod would vastly improve clutch feel and it just didn't. Anyway, I'm still happy to help manage the group buy for the half-rate spring for those interested. Just let me know. P.S. - I've PMed with Doug (who originally sent it to me so as to get his OK and again a big thanks to him ) and am happy the test spring to the first person that PMs me. Cheers. P.P.S. - I have a MY2000 C2 cabriolet for your info.

Nice review Ed! So, my fears were correct - a lighter spring would just increase the effort, without making the whole thing smoother or more intuitive!? So, it's either better clutch feel, harder effort, more slop with the No spring, or stock setup.

An answer (for many of us, but not Ed) may be a very light spring to simply take the free play out of the system.

That, or the rubber tube against the back stop, to keep the pedal up against the CC switch.

Yes, but remimber that this approach only works becuase of the reduced spring force. And you do have to help guide the 'nipples' back in to their mounts while you try to slowly allow the pedal to come up; not super easy given the pedal force required, but it worked for me.

It's probably easier to put the nipples in the guides first, then raise the pedal until the hole in the spring head lines up with the pedal. THEN you put the pin back in. Problem is, it's impossible to put the pin in with the nut facing the right way. I put mine in backwards, without the retaining clip.

the rubber tube does the trick for me, no slop, great feel, I decided Im keeping it just the way it is.

Check out the new issue of Excellence Magazine, it states the spring can be adjusted from 8% to 33% load.

Really? Do you remember how they did it?

Note the diagram on p. 184 of that article isn't showing a 996 clutch pedal assembly.

Excellence stated there is a knife edge screw on the back. My clutch feels great, stiff but not too stiff. A new clutch was installed; they may have made this adjustment. I had driven other 996 that didn�t feel this stiff. I also was in a 986 with an extremely stiff clutch which may be do to a clutch going bad. Chris 2000 Porsche 996 C2 Cab Eibach springs. Short shifter B&M. Fabspeed Exhaust, headers. Agency Power Rear Adj. Control Arms

Chris - I have a subscription to Excellence Magazine. SPecifically, what issue # and month of Excellence Magazine has the information you mentioned? The latest issue I have is issue #155 - May 2007. Thanks

I have no knife-edge screw on my spring housing. It's solid plastic.

I'm mystified by this thread... there must be something wrong with me because I have no problem stalling my car or feel it has a variable engagment point. What I'm not wild about is that the beginning of the engagement point is roughly half way out from fully depressed to the floor. I much prefer engagement that begins early... in fact I added a clutch stop on my Dinan5 that eliminates the lower 1/4 of the clutch pedal travel. Still.... I'm perplexed that so many have this problem to consider spring assist removal, and it isn't even on my radar. Guess I'll go count lucky stars?

Maybe the GT3 has a different clutch pedal set-up? I think this thread is an example of how great Rennlist is! Owners helping other owners - a beautiful thing!

All Porsche' clutch pedal setups suck. Even a Honda provides better control and feel for it's clutches. The purpose of the mod is to get a better feel and control of the clutch...not to prevent stalling.

Ah yes the elusive clutch feel... I think I'd still vote 1st for moving initial clutch bite closer to the floor, That's what affects feel the most for me. By the time the pedal is in its last 1/3 of travel and it's just now really hooking up drives me nuts! Anyone know of a source for an enhanced clutch stop. I haven't even looked under the dash to take a look at whether there's a bumper on the floor for this pedal?

I thought a clutch that catches closer to the floor is on it's way out? No? My '87 Integra that I bought new used to have a clutch take-up adjustment between on the clutch cable where it came out of the fire wall. You could adjust it higher, or lower. Not sure how good that was for the clutch though...I went through 3 of them in 20k miles!

My '86 Teg was the same way. The reason was that it was not a hydraulic clutch and hence not self adjusting. The adjustment was there such that when it wore you could adjust it so it would not slip. If you didn't adjust it correctly, specifically if there wasn't enough play at the top of the travel then it would definitely, definitely wear out the clutch.

Oops. Good thing the dealer replaced two of the clutches! Those were the days. I don't miss the awful gearing in the early Integras. When I was in 5th on the highway, it felt like I was in 3rd, and had nowhere to go! PS--I just figured out what a "Teg" was!

did this mod the other night in maybe 6 minutes. Great feel to it. Anybody skeptical about doing it please dont worry. At first youll feel like your driving sombody elses car or even move your seat closer to get the extra pressure but its so worth it when your downshifting and trying to feel your way in. Thanks for the write-ups

I am bringing this post up from the dead. I am having a small issue that I can only attribute to this mod. Can someone explain how is the "cruise control switch" by the clutch pedal affect driveability if it is "not" functioning correctly? Let me explain further. I will drive...car feels fine...then out of nowhere, as soon as I shift the car feels like "bogs" in between shifts...as soon as this happens, I can usually "fix" the problem by reaching down and pressing on the switch...problem goes away...after a while...it happens again...I reach, same operation, and problem fix......??????????? Further...when the "problem" occurs, the cruise control seems to be working fine...while reaching down there...and pressing the button, while it alleviates the "boggin" issue during shifting, then the cruise control won't work... I am puzzled...is my "cc" switch going bad? I can't figure it out...yet I am tired of reaching down there... How does this switch work exactly? Can someone please explain as that maybe will help me figure out this issue...I am getting tired of reaching down there like I had an itch on my toes....

By removing the return spring you are removing the full pressure to push the clutch pedal all the way out and trigger the cruise switch. Someone warned of this way back in one of the early responses.

Loren...I don't think you understand the situation. I am full aware of it. However...how can my cruise control be working if "even" if the switch toggle is pulled out all the way towards the clutch, and there is still no contact....?? Further...how can that have ANYTHING to do with the car "boggin' down" when the cruise is "operational"...and how can the "boggin'" sensation disappear when the cruise is non operational....?? My question is related to what exactly causes this boggin' when the cruise is operational...does the ECU sense something and retard timing or something of that nature....?

I did this mod this morning and I'm amazed! Not only did the funny spring noise go away but my clutch pedal has now the feel that it should have! I have no longer to guess where the clutch release point is but know exactly where it is. My shifts are much smoother and so much faster. The required effort to push the pedal is just fine; I actually like it more than with the spring. To avoid the free play of the clutch pedal and the issue with the cruise control, I put a little piece of rubber hose on the cruise control button; this works fine and eliminated the pedal's play completely. I just love this mod! Thanks to everyone for posting on this thread and convincing me to do this little mod!

I did the mod over the weekend and was similarly amazed by the improved feel but unhappy with the loose pedal. Didn't want to use an offset (such as rubber hose) to contact cruise control switch so I purchased the softer springs from McMaster-Carr as suggested earlier in this thread. The softer spring moves the clutch pedal to the proper "at rest" position and adds a little assistance throughout the entire clutch pedal travel -- just enough to take the edge off the ***** of my feet from my aluminum pedals (thanks Dutchie in NC). The best thing is that the feel is still dramatically improved. At the beginning of the pedal stroke (seems like 1" in my 2002 Coupe), you can tell that you're not pushing the clutch, just the pedal. That makes a huge difference for me, and the lack of a quickly rising pedal as you release the clutch. As I've read from others, my biggest issue was shifting smoothly from 1st to 2nd. I've stalled the car only once and that was due to inattention (stereo versus stoplight). I have 5 extra springs that I'll gladly ship to anyone interested. MacMaster-Carr had a 6 piece minimum. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. A great mod. Now onto my exhaust...

Anybody tried this on 996tt? Is it the same clutch pedal setup? Sorry if this has been mentioned already somewhere in those 17 pages...

OK. This is my next mod. Anyone have pics of exactly what I'm taking out. Tailwag posted them early in this thread, but I can't access them now... Am I removing the entire orange cannister??

I'll take one of your extra springs ! - I'm in Vancouver canada, but if you pop it in the mail I'm sure it''s cost a couple bucks at the most. Next time i'm in AZ I'll set you up with a beer (or two). I'll pm my address.

Tailwag Got your pics..Thanks!! I'll get that done this w/e, then take it to the body shop Monday. it will be like driving a new car!!

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pm sent -

pm sent

I'm grateful someone resurrected this thread a little bit ago so that I saw it. I did this today to my 2001 C2, and what a difference! The clutch action is absolutely fantastic since I removed the spring. Previously I felt like I was abusing the clutch by slipping it inadvertantly due to never being able to determine where the friction point was. Now I think my clutch life (just had it replaced, as well as a new fly wheel) will be much extended, and I don't feel like such an amateur by making the car lurch! Thanks for posting this. Greg

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Thanks to the poster of the above! OK, you would think I would not have had as much trouble doing this relatively simple mod considering I single handedly (after never having done so on any Porsche before, 300ZX yes, but not a Porsche) replaced my clutch and flywheel this weekend. Where I kept getting stuck was locating the hole to put the nail in. AHA! There it is... Then laying down and hold the clutch pedal is not much fun either.. So what I did was got a broom handle that has a rubber thingy on one end, put one end on the clutch pedal with the handle through the steering wheel and the other end on the seat back. Using the electric controls I then moved the seat angle forward little by little until the clutch pedal was fully depressed. Stuck a flat bladed screw driver up and pried front to rear on the end toward the front of the car. The spring assemble damn near dropped on the floor by itself it was so easy! Here are some pics that may help others in this endeavor. Sorry for the crappy picture quality, wife is out of town with the good digital camera so my Treo phone was all that was available.. This shows where the nail is inserted. I suggest using one with a head on it. First one I tried was too small and fell through... Above show my easy clutch pedal depression tool.. Was still plenty of room to slide under (6 foot 1, 185 pounds). YMMV

I did this yesterday. Tailwag, thx. for the pics.! Nosub, the broom handle idea was the ticket!! I was sure I was going to like it before I did it. Then afterwards I wasn't so sure anymore. Now today, I had to drive to the body shop in Charlotte at 8:00 rush hour. I have to say even with that, I'm glad I did it! It is harder, significantly harder on the leg IMHO. But even with that I think it's really improved the driving experience. The owner b4 me must have had the squeeky clutch, because the spring was loaded with grease!! Again, thanks fellow rennlisters. This membership has been the best $$ I ever spent!!

Just did this... I have had an '01 996 for about 6 months and was wondering why I was not as smooth on the clutch as I felt I should be coming from a couple Lotuses and ages of driving BMWs ... well, glad to find this thread and it seems it wasn't (all) me... ...putting the vent back was harder than the actual modification... put the outboard (window) side on first...

I recently installed the McMaster-Carr 9657K142 spring in my 2002 C2. I like the feel/action of the engagement better now. Bill

Searched the site for info on clutch bleeding as I did'nt feel comfortable with the feel of my clutch. Hate to drum up an old thread, but thought some other newbies like me would benefit from reading this. I performed the mod in less than 10 minutes , and it was'nt difficult. Like most things, I could do it again in 1/3 the time. Hardest part was getting the air duct back in for me. I love the way the clutch feels now. Its the way I thought a clutch in a porsche would feel. Alot more control, and much better than the mushy feeling prior to removing the spring assembly. Finally ditched the pumpkins too. I like that look much better. Now to drop the cans and get them Fisterized. I see what you guys meant about the mod bug. Definitely addictive. My problem is I hate to tear things apart , because that means I lose my daily dose of adrenaline driving the snot out of this thing! Thanks to all on this site for the info. It has made my experience of owning my car much more rewarding. More expensive , but rewarding.

Does this work on Tips?

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Yah it works on the tiptronics. The extra sounds an exhaust can make are often misinterpreted by police as a mating call. This makes them highly irrational when they finally see you round the turn. This has been my personal experience rocketing up a valley.

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Yeah, you remove the paddle springs for better paddle feel!

Wow, Nice thread revisit. I might give this a try. A mod that no one is screaming how it is NOT going to work....

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Yes the spring is a little harder to find. Just keep looking. Oh yeah... on the tip you have to remove the dash to get to the spring. But well worth it

Interesting to see my old thread reserected after almost 3 years. Anyway I still stand by my claim that this makes a world of difference in the driving pleasure of this car and makes a clutch feel like it should. The best and least expensive mod I've done, and is noticed every time I engage the clutch. I would be willing to bet that this mod will substantially increase clutch plate and pp life as well. Better feel equals less slipping and hunting for that sweetspot of impending friction.

Thanks for resurrecting, can't remember reading this one before. On to do list...or at least check it out.

It's too bad Arron (Medtech) sold his car, other wise he could have done th......... oh wait..... I forgot..... Arron's car was a Tip!

I did not like it so i just pulled the spring out cleaned ,oiled, and put it back in. Did the clutch delay switch, will test today.

Interesting thread resurrection. I've never seen this one before. Does the mkII 996 have the same spring part # and removal process?

Yes.

Does this explain why my 2000 Boxster S clutch is heavier then my 2004 C4S? I was really surprised when I got in the C4S the first time and the clutch was so much lighter but also had less feel. I got use to it pretty quickly but may be interested in doing this as a comparative experiment. Besides, I need to crawl underneath there anyway to disable the darn clutch interlock switch.

whoa, i like did this mod and i like it a lot better, i didn't like how the clutch would spring back at you, it felt artificial

Thanks to Chris996 for resurrecting this old thread. I've had the occasional stall-out, and now it seems like it was because the "assist spring" was disengaging (by rotation) at the same time the clutch was engaging, making it hard to feel. Did the mod yesterday, and it took me a while (maybe an hour) because I didn't understand how to remove the hinge pin end. Turns out you don't have to pull out the retainer clip and slide the pin out, you just pull on the spring and it comes out. The trick of placing a mop handle through the steering wheel, and using the power seat back to push the clutch was a lifesaver! The force to actuate the clutch is MUCH higher, but I don't mind it. To fix the wobbly clutch and cruise control, I removed the compression spring from its housing using a vise (be careful!). I picked up a smaller spring at Home Depot (P/N 684838, $3.98 for two). I had to open one end slightly using pliers, but it fits fine. Easy to compress with two hands. It keeps the uncompressed clutch pedal from wobbling, but adds just a little pedal compression assistance. Nice!

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good idea..

Funny story. I read this thread a year or more ago and always wondered what poeple were complaining about. I've always found it really easy to feel where my clutch engages. Sure I drove some other 996 cars, and sure the clutches felt lighter. Mine was always a bit stiff but I always kind of figured it was getting old and tired. Well, I drop in to my local indy shop recently and a tech I've known for many years jumps in my car and says - hey your clutch helper spring feels broken. So he pops it out and sure enough, the bottom 1 cm is broken off and rattling around in the housing. That explains a lot. There's enough tension to keep the cruise control switch working normally, and maybe even enough tension to assist the clutch a bit, but I'm getting the raw clutch feel being discussed here. The really good news is that this means my clutch probably isn't as badly worn as I thought. <thumbs up> He asked me if I wanted to replace the broken spring with a new one.....I'm thinking I don't. Ha!

I just performed this mod on my 2001 996TT and I wish I would have done it the first day I bought the car. What a difference ! I have been telling people that this is the most inconsistent clutch I have ever used, not anymore though ! I feel confident that my wife will have no problems driving it now, unlike before. Is it stiffer? Not that I have noticed; even if it is, my calf could use the exercise :-) The cruise control still works too, even if it didn’t, that would be an easy fix. Thanks guys !

Well, I just repaired my clutch helper spring and couldn't be happier to have it back to how the Porsche engineers intended. The car feels much more refined and so far I have had *no* problem finding the friction point. As it happens, I repaired my clutch helper spring (which had broken) using the spring element from a 997S. Not the whole assembly, just the spring itself. The assembly housing was different. I wonder if the spring rates were the same? Anyway - I like it the way it is now. Nice and smooth and the bottom of my foot is thanking me.

Since I removed the spring I have put about 250 miles on the car. I could not be happier with the mod. My wife who initially had much trouble driving the car, put about 40 miles on over the weekend and she as well cannot believe how much more user friendly it is to drive. When I asked her if the clutch seems stiffer, she replied with �not that I can tell�.

I did this mod in the Spring (no pun intended), and I am very happy with it. I ended up replacing the stock helper spring with a small spring that I got at home depot (see post #277). It provides just small return force to take the excess play out of the clutch travel and actuate the clutch microswitches. The mod is still good, but now there is a slight creaky noise when I depress the clutch. I think my spring is just rubbing on the plastic spring-retainer housing. QUESTION : Has anyone used any lube in this area to deal with the squeaky clutch pedal?

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I'd like to have one of those springs. I live in Fountain Hills. Just did the mod this morning and I don't like the pedal slopiness either. Let me know if you if you still have one. Thanks

Mine i felt it acting Wierd in December after i heard a Crunching and Clunk noise come from my Pedal as i was throwing Gears... I believe mine has been broken for a long time. Because today when i picked up my car from the shop with the new Unit in, my Clutch Pedal never Felt so smooth ever before... I have owned my car for alsmost 5 years now and she is 7 years old with 126k. My Pedal now feels like a Brand new car thats in the Porsche Showroom. This is the Latest Part Number 996-423-081-20, its $49.82 USD at Suncoast or Sonnen Porsche here is what happend to mine...

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That's what happened to me too. The clutch was so stiff that I thought it was on it's last legs. Then I replaced the spring, the factory clutch feel was restored, and I couldn't be happier. Replacing this spring "Improved Clutch Action Dramatically"

WOW! one of the best mods yet! as others have said...thought i lost my touch, stalled often, jerky shifts.... removed spring and its smooth as pie!

OMG! I just removed the helper spring, and I can drive again. I thought the lack of feel was just the hydraulic clutch. This is what I expected a Porsche clutch to feel like. I don't even think it takes more effort to operate, but all the vagueness is gone. The cruise even works. One note: The pin got stuck and I ended up pushing the clutch in and out a few times to get it loose. Remember it's a hydraulic clutch so it got pretty stiff toward the end. I was thinking this may be too stiff until I started it and all was good. Brilliant mod!

Maybe this mod works better for clutches that are new, or not nearing the end? When I removed my spring, the pedal was extremely hard to push down, and control on the way up. Could be my clutch is on the way out?

I don't know what these spring removal guys are on about. My helper spring was broken for months and I thought my clutch was on the way out. Stiff as hell and unpleasant to operate. I replaced the spring and now it feels fantastic. I think I've stalled the car once in two years and 30,000 miles.

mine is maybe 10 to 15% stiffer without the helper spring, but the resistance is much more linear and the feel is excellent. Maybe I have strong legs, but my 52 year old, 5' 110lb wife drove it this evening with no problems. She said she liked it a lot better without the helper spring. Maybe some of you guys need to hit the weight room. Also, my clutch has about 23k miles on it.

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+1, i dont get it either. Mine was broken and it felt like ****... with the new spring in the car feels much better to drive. cant imgen how horriable it would be without it...

This thread has me wondering if there are differences between the MK1 and MK2, or Turbo and NA clutches. I have a Turbo MK2, and the clutch without the spring is so much better and not really difficult to push. I'll probably get that Home Depot spring just to take the slop out of the top of the pedal travel.

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Since you're on the 996 board, I'm betting most of the responses here are not from turbo owners.

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I used a small and light spring out of a Harley rear brake master cylinder rebuild kit I had lying around. It's about 3" long 1/2" diameter and you compress it by hand. Glad you revived this thread I started a few years ago. I'll have to try it on my Turbo. I for the life of me, don't know why the engineers at Porsche put in the booster springs in the first place. It makes the car really difficult to modulate the clutch action starting off. Nearly impossible in traffic on a hill with the radio on. The throttle by wire is horrible to begin with, add a helper spring to mask the feel of the clutch engagement point and starting the car in motion is iffy at best. I need to put in a clutch accumulator first, then I'll remove the booster spring and hopefully get some manual driving experience back that I used to love that I found missing from the newer Porsches. I know this mod did wonders on my '99 n/a car.

I need to replace the helper spring on my clutch. I could kick a rhino to death with my left leg. I know some people remove the spring, but when you drive as much as I do, and in stop and go traffic it's no fun.

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I believe it's the other way around. I had a reduced force spring in, and liked it, but when I replaced my engine I installed a new OEM clutch kit. The first time I drove it the pedal pressure was higher than in my F-250 diesel! So I put the factory spring back in and now have a reasonable amount of pressure to depress the pedal, and like the way it feels.

Took the spring out, but its way too hard without it. I installed a lighter spring but still too hard. I'm caving in and just gonna go with the oem. I also replaced my clutch master so i had expected great results but nothing.

Did you try the suggested McMaster-Carr spring 9657K142 ?

Wow. This thread has more lives than a cat.

I went with the home depot spring to take the play out of the pedal. A year later I still love the mod. I'm over 50, have bad knees and I still don't find it hard to push in the clutch. The feel is totally linear now and it is much easier drive smoothly. Either I'm lucky with my particular clutch or some of you need to hit the weight room.

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Tell the truth Hamilton. You just took the medicine lol

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Bloody good move IMHO. Porsche didn't put that 'clutch pressurebooster' whatever where it is for no reason. Porsche is a top classic car designer. I am waiting for the modders maybe to come back on this board a year from now complaining on how they are going through clutch plates or thrust bearings like they are going out of fashion. For the life in me I can't imagine why people would even contemplate removing something which Porsche put on their creation. There are young females who drive these cars and their legs are not as powerful to push in a clutch pedal. I drove stick shift and nothing else for 30 years in the UK and 3 years in Germany. For the last 17 years I have drove automatics in the states. I am 70 years of age and it is a pleasure to once again to be driving a stick shift car for the past year. My clutch feels just the same as every other clutch car I have driven. It doesn't squeak. It isnt soft. Of course I have stalled the car if I dont get my revs right when moving from a standing position. I never ride or even feather a clutch. Then again it not up to me to be giving stick shift driving lessons to people on this board. Maybe all those who stall the car every time they drive it should be looking further into the problem because I don't think the problem is where they think it is. and thats me off my soap box. Mine is 1999 C2 996 Cab

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No, where can I get one? Im still willing to give another go

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Not to be a smart alec, but the obvious place is McMaster-Carr. I have a few left. Private message me for contact info and I'll send you one. Bill

BTDT Hated the way the clutch felt. Went by the stealership one day and asked how much for a new one. $116, installed. DONE!

116usd to fit a spring????!

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Superseded, improved part no less

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lol!

I had problems with cruise control plus the clutch was really hard and figured I would put the spring back in. After doing maybe 100 miles it seems like the muscle memory takes over when changing gears and its way better than before. I will report in a weeks time if I stall the car, but I had couple stalls in traffic the last week anyways so not spring related, more like me being lazy in traffic in new city. But it looks promising. Take the spring off for few months learn the shifting distance and go back.

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The home depot spring mod described earlier fixes the cruise problem, and pushes the pedal to the top of its travel on the off chance that it really might cause problems with the thrust bearings. I haven't stalled my car since I did the mod 10 months ago. As for being hard to push in the clutch, my 5' tall, 110 lb middle aged wife can drive it with no problems. Some of you guys need to either man up or have your slave/accumulator checked.

Dummer and dumest... Try a little gas BEFORE releasing your clutch not visa versa. I always find it works much better that way. This thread sucks and so do the posters who take out the spring clutch assistor.

To each his own Hurdi. These are brilliant cars, but they can be improved. Kind of like the improvements you made to the badging on your car.

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Hey I am not against adding something to a car but to take something out of it thats supposed to be there for the smooth running beats me. Theres something wrong with the driver IMHO. If not the driver then the bloody clutch and its working parts needs looking at. Taking a spring out. Oh yeh that will help no end. Do I detect a tad of sarcasm in your reply? LOL

^^doh^^

No offense Hurdi, but I have driven sticks my whole life in almost every kind of vehicle you can imagine. It's not my ability on the clutch. The ability to execute silky smooth shifts under normal driving is a point of pride for me. The release point on the spring was in the exact wrong position for the engagement point on my clutch. It was extremely difficult to shift even at speed without giving my passenger whiplash. Also, you shouldn't have to rev the engine to avoid stalling when starting from a stop. Perfect timing of the application of throttle at clutch engagement minimizes wear on the clutch. You can't really do that if clutch pressure isn't linear through the pedal travel. Replacing the stock spring with a much lighter one holds the pedal in the proper position while providing the linear feel that I feel is optimum. It takes about 20% more effort to depress the clutch, but on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the hardest to depress clutch I have ever had, it's a 5. No big deal. If you are happy with you clutch that's great. I wasn't happy with mine and found a simple effective fix. I'm at almost 60k on the original clutch. Let's say I replace it at 60k and my mod causes the next clutch to only go 30k. I doubt that will be the case, but it would still be worth it to effortless execute proper shifts. Like I said. To each his own. Glad you like your car. Cabs are great.

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i must admit that before they changed my noisy transmission there was a couple of times when I DID stall the car. They told me that my clutch was good and didn't need replacement. After the transmission change, I never stalled it and the clutch felt normal to me then. So maybe there is something amiss with your clutch and when a new one is put in , then you may have to return to your first stock spring. Maybe the drivers having trouble and having to remove the spring should have the clutch checked out. At least YOU did put a spring back in place, even though it was a weaker one. Others have left the spring out which I thought was ludicrous. BTW I just got a wind deflector and I love it. Oh got a scare yesterday. I saw water on the car park after driving. The engine was hot at 180F.. I could see a drip coming from near the centre of the car. Again checked in the garage when i got home and still dripping. Caught the water in a baking pan and found it to be clear water. Not green so not coolant. I let the engine go cold and checked coolant level and normal. So I take it that it is condensate from the cooling system. I always thought that the condensate stopped as the engine got warm but not rightly so.

After 2 weeks after putting the spring back in I am happy to report it was a great decision. I never stall the car anymore, the shift are smooth and everything works like it supposed too. I strongly recommend for anyone to had it out for few months to put it in and see how it feels, you might be happy with the results.

Unless I'm reading all wrong I can't believe I've spent an hour reading all 22 pages only to come a full circle !!!! And yes, I am a slow reader

LOL. I cant believe this came up again. I still have the light Spring and still love the mod. 12k and no issues. I met another 996 TT cab guy a couple of weeks ago. We were talking about our cars he he said his only complaint was that the clutch was very difficult to drive smoothly. He had recently sold a 9934S to get the Turbo. I told him about the mod, so we exchanged contact info. He called me Sunday to tell me he had done the spring mod and it was brilliant. I guess it's all about personal preferences.

Get rid of the 996 shift assembly. Swap to a 997 SS kit. I ignored all 22 pages since I've driven 993/996/987 with no complaints of the clutch pedal. However the shifter in 996 is terrible....

Get the 997 GT3 shifter. Even better.

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How does the shifter have anything to do with how the clutch engages? I'm glad you like your short shift kit, but I think you might have missed the point. It was somewhere in those 22 pages you skipped...

Yes the 996 shifter is not great - but it's a whole lot better than the BBM short shifter. I've heard nothing but good things about the 997 shifters ...normal, short and GT3 - they all seem to be better than the 996 setup. I guess this should be my next mod. BUT - this is a clutch spring thread - not a shifter thread. As I reported earlier, my clutch action improved dramatically when I repaired my broken clutch spring. Anyone here still running without the spring is nuts in my book - but whatev. Moreover - I replaced my clutch this summer. The diaphragm on the old one finally broke. I replaced it with a Sport Clutch and spring centred disc to complement the Light Weight Fly Wheel that I installed. I expected the effort to increase, but much to my surprise the exact opposite happened. My clutch is light as a feather. I have *zero* problems modulating my clutch, and yes the stock spring is still installed.

So I read the first 5 pages and the last 5 pages - does anyone in between those pages mention how to lube the spring to get rid of the squeak? My clutch feels fine but the little chirp bugs me.

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Somewhere between Pages 6 and 17....... sorry. Couldn't resist

Get the Numeric Racing shifter. THE BEST. Yep, we have them...

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I have the same issue. Seems the first few posts detail how to yank the canister holding the spring out of the car. From there I imagine it is easy to disassemble (perhaps wear goggles if spring could fly out) and use some high quality automotive grease after cleaning.

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It has been too long since I researched that idea, but I do remember learning that it is at best a short term fix, if viable at all.

removing this spring is a great, free, 5- minute mod. I've owned over 30 Porsches and my '02 had the worst clutch action with this spring installed. Not sure why some folks feel like the clutch is too stiff without it. It now feels much like a cable actuated clutch from a 70's 911. Nice. Will shim the 1/4" free play in the pedal and will be done

You can stick a pin or nail through a hole in it and this holds it in the compressed position - while depressing the clutch pedal. Then it is easy to pull out. I haven't looked into this for a while, but it would be nice from my experience having it both ways that a less aggressive spring would be my choice. Too stiff for traffic with it out and too aggressive for a good feel with it in. Todd 99 coupe

I would bet replacing your worn motor mounts would improve clutch action even more dramatically. Worked for me, with my helper spring intact.

This thread is of course the reference for this mod with all the pluses and minuses. Background: I've had this '02 996 for only two months, and one of those months all my spare time was spent selling my '87 911 (whose clutch I loved, BTW). Only in the last week have I been able to spend enough time to work on the '02. I've put about 1200 miles on it, all commuting or around town, so have used the clutch plenty. Last night at about 9:30pm I finally decided to go do the mod. It took me about half an hour grand total (I have very little room on the side of the car to maneuver myself in and out, couldn't wait until morning). I just took it on two test drives. OOOO MMMM GGGG. This mod completely removes the biggest, by far, complaint I had about the car: the clutch was just numb and the engagement point wasn't a "point", it was about the size of Nebraska. All the problems everyone else mentioned I had also: stalling on start, rough shifts up (especially into second gear), little feel compared to my '87. Marshmallow describes it well. What a disappointment, but OK the rest of the car is pretty nice :-). Now with the mod done, this thing can be driven like a bat out of h#ll. It took me a mile to figure out the difference (it's a LOT stiffer and the engagement point seems further down than I was used to), but after that there is absolutely no looking back. Shifting is outrageously fast and precise, I don't even need to waver either gas or clutch pedals looking for engagement in any gear, either upshift or downshift. I would say my shifts are twice as fast and they are much less jerky. For the first time I can say it is superior to my '87 in every way. The only drawback is that the pedal is really stiff, even stiffer than my '87 with turbo clutch. I do have to remember to push the pedal *all the way* down every time and not get lazy. I have not yet tried to see if the cruise control is flaky. Thanks Rennlist!!! What a HUGE improvement to this wonderful car!

Great post mklein9. Good to hear that removing the spring from your '02 did the trick. I've never stalled my '02 cab, but marshmallow is a great description. The other strange thing is how the spring pushes pedal the last 20% when releasing. I'm ready to do the mod and was wondering if you had the same issues with cruise control and pedal play/looseness with spring removed...and what you have done to resolve. Sounds like the '02 and newer 996's have less issues when the spring is removed.

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Don't worry, after about a month you won't notice the stiffness anymore. Every once in a while my mind plays games with me and I go back and check to make sure the pedal isn't loose; but it's just me being accustomed to the stiffness.

That was easy! Using the broom trick to depress the clutch, it took no more than 5 mins to pull out the spring assembly. As others have noted, it definitely feels significantly stiffer the first time you press in the clutch, but it's so worth it and I'm already used to it. Gone is the marshmallow feel and so is the annoying push back at top when releasing the clutch. Test drive proved the time invested was well worth it. From the very first release I was a happy man. It does seem like it engages sooner and shifts feel much tighter/accurate. Only issue remaining is play/looseness where the pedal doesn't have spring keeping it tight when fully released. Not noticeable when driving although cruise control doesn't work as others have noted. Back in 2010, Frisbee91 posted to this thread the following, which sounds like a good way to keep the new feel while also having a tight clutch pedal that works with cruise control. "To fix the wobbly clutch and cruise control, I removed the compression spring from its housing using a vise (be careful!). I picked up a smaller spring at Home Depot (P/N 684838, $3.98 for two). I had to open one end slightly using pliers, but it fits fine." Has anyone done this? Would be great if someone can post step-by-step instructions and some pics on how to do this. Looking at the spring part I just removed, it's not obvious how to do it. Thanks in advance for help.

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Hi ONDMTN, I have 1.5 commute round trips with the springless clutch now, and a little around town driving, so here is a preliminary report on the various issues. First of all there is no way I'm going back to the spring. The clutch feel is so dramatically improved it is like a completely different car. I guess Porsche, at some late point in the design cycle, decided they had to have a "marshmallow clutch" in by default to appeal to the majority of their customers, while still being able to return the clutch all the way up. Therefore the multi-stage design that produces the odd mix of forces we have noticed. There are a couple of effects of this change as I think most others have noted. 1) Way firmer pedal. Not a problem. Much better than the alternative. Took me about a mile to get used to. 2) Flaky cruise control because the clutch pedal doesn't return all the way to the top and doesn't reliably engage the switch. Yes, this happened to me and was initially fixed by pulling the pedal up with my foot while driving. But there is a simple solution that so far appears to work, which is to force the switch to readjust. It is really easy to do, as outlined in another post here: depress the clutch pedal, find the finger of the switch that sticks out and meets the pedal, and pull the finger out from the body of the switch a couple of clicks. Release the clutch pedal and let the switch readjust itself. Easily done from the driver's seat. So far so good. 3) For some reason that I have not identified, the entire cruise control system disabled itself during the morning drive to work yesterday (the first longer drive after doing the mod). Couldn't turn it on, and no indicator light on the dash. Fixed itself after one power cycle (ignition off and on). Hasn't appeared since. Will report if it happens again. 4) Barely pushing in the clutch pedal, just touching it really, produces a vibration sensation in the pedal. It only occurs at that point. You would expect some vibration at some point along the clutch travel, so I don't think this is a problem, it just wasn't easily felt before. Overall this mod is utterly and totally worthwhile. My shifts are, quite literally, twice as fast and much smoother. This may even imply a substantially longer clutch life. I can even dare shift (up or down) in a turn now. *UPDATE* -- one week of commuting and around town driving and the cruise control has been working flawlessly. *UPDATE 2* 2/13/13 -- about 9 days and the cruise control stopped activating. Pulling the clutch switch finger out to readjust it fixed it. So it is not a 100% reliable solution, but it is so easy to do it may be acceptable long term. A weak spring to pull the pedal back out without affecting the positive feel of the spring-less clutch would be a nice solution. -Mike

Is anyone able to give me some advice. I'm trying to replace the spring in my car and I've managed to get the old one (which was in 4 pieces out) but I can't get the new one back in! My problem is in trying to get the two lugs that stick out from the spring housing into their brackets. It seems like an impossibility to me! It looks to me like you have to get the housing in between the frame brackets and then turn it 90 degrees so the lugs can go in! I can't seem to manage this! Anyone any advice? Do you do this with the clutch pressed down or not?

I put mine back in after about 2 months, it was just too hard to press the clutch, it took away the enjoyment. Maybe with the new clutch it will be lighter. Either way after putting the spring back in none of the old problems appeared, no stalling, 2 nd gear engages great, I know perfectly where the gears engage.

I like the clutch in my car... Firm but not stiff with very positive engagement about midway through travel. Had a new clutch installed when I bought the car at 38k. 62k now and feels the same.

Quick update. I was able to pick up the softer spring that Frisbee91 suggested. Was easy to install in the clutch spring housing as well as getting it back into the car with help of the broom trick. Now have the benefit of better feel like when clutch spring was removed, but the wobble is gone and the cruise control works great. Highly recommend this mod. Home Depot P/N is still 684838. Cost was $4.38 for two springs so I have an extra if anyone wanting to do this lives in San Diego.

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Funny, I had the spring described by Dscott at McMaster-Carr in my shopping cart for weeks and just yesterday added enough other items to make it worthwhile to order it. I may do this just to try. And, like Dscott, I got 6 springs so am set for my next 5 996s :-). Or anyone else who wants a free spring.

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LOL. Good for you mklein9. It is well worth it.

I found this thread very helpful and would like to add a tip: The cruise control will not work after you remove it, or at least not reliably. What I did was add a thick furniture pad from IKEA to the end of the piston that's part of the sensor. That extended it's reach and now it works great!

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Last weekend I installed the weaker spring and I have the following observations: Engagement point is just a small touch vaguer than with no spring It's still quite precise and a big big improvement over the stock spring Pedal comes all the way up, so cruise control is not an issue at all Overall it's an excellent mod. I could imagine using even a slightly weaker spring, but this is fine. Here's a comparison of the original (blue ends) and weaker spring (all silver) along with the disassembled body.

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Sent you a PM, if you don't need all 5 , I could use one!

Thanks for the pic, Mike! I hope to do this over the weekend. I picked up the $4, 4 spring set from Home Depot a few weeks ago, and had assumed you use one of the 2 shorter ones, not the longer ones! That's a lot of spring to fit in there. Was there any trick to loading the new one in?

perryinv, I got the springs from McMaster-Carr, not Home Depot, so I can't tell what will happen with those. There was nothing special to do. Take the original spring out, put the new one in (I greased the ends lightly with lithium grease paste). It takes a push to get it seated but the first time it is compressed in the body that's taken care of.

Did this yesterday. It killed my back, however WOW what a difference. I had trouble getting it out because there wasn't enough room to slide the pin out. In the end I just pushed the clutch to the floor, twisted the assembly, and pulled it out. Makes the clutch feel 1000x better. No more crunch at the end of the travel. I felt like I was going to break something when I pressed it...lol Anymore free, cheap or easy mods?

I have about a month and a thousand miles on the reduced-spring mod and it is most definitely a keeper. As I mentioned in a previous post I could consider a slightly weaker spring still but this is just fine. Cruise control works perfectly and almost all the precise feeling of having no spring is still there. Shifting is ultra fast with no jerks, and I rarely stall (and only because with this mod I can engage first gear at such a low RPM I kind of sometimes go too far). I happened to drive a friend's 2002 Turbo last week. He had asked his mechanic about the clutch spring mod and the mechanic said no, the Turbo is different, it doesn't need it. But of all the things that are wonderful about the Turbo, the clutch is not one. It feels like mine did before the mod: super soft, no feeling of where engagement is, have to rev up to start in first, jerky shifts.

Praise the Lord, we-a have-a clutch feel again!! Used the Home Depot spring, seems like it would be too light to be effective, but it works the champ! Like others, I never realized engagement was so high up, but now feathering and engagement is effortless. I notice very very little increase in foot effort, certainly not even remotely enough to ever go back to the old spring. THANK YOU to all that paved the trail for this no brainer mod. Wow. I really can't believe the difference. Seriously, by far the absolute least expensive ($4!) best 1/2 hour mod of all time on any car I've ever owned. Likewise, you better be pretty limber with a good back to do this. And already have the dowel cut to the right length to hold the clutch pedal down, which I already had from power flushing & bleed of my brakes.

Just finished doing this mod this morning, for what turned out to be a super simple mod the improvement in the driving experience is spectacular. I am of to home depot for the recommended spring and will be reinstalling it in a few days after I put some additional miles on the car.

I have done this mod in the past but now wanting to put the spring back in. I have been having a go at it far a couple hours now but no matter what I try it - I can't get it back in. Could anyone tell me please how to put teh spring back in as I'm clearly missing some vital inforation on this .... Thanks!

At the risk of being flamed, you guys that are brought up with automatics just need to learn to drive a stick shift!! :-)

I'd rather see awnser to my qn.

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Ha, ha! When I learned to drive, pushing a clutch was a chore. And on a truck, you needed serious leg muscles. At a stop light you learned to find neutral quickly. Holding the clutch disengaged for any period of time and you'd get the "sewing machine leg" syndrome. I now only get it from being stuck on a pitch while rock climbing. Oh, sorry I can't remember how to put the spring back in as it was over 6 years ago I started this thread.

Toon, here are the steps to put the spring back in. 1) Gather the tools you'll need (small screwdriver or two, small pliers, safety glasses, flashlight and/or shop light). Decide if you can push the clutch pedal down yourself or need some help from a piece of wood or a helpful bystander. Park the car where you have plenty of room on the driver's side for flailing body parts and other items. 2) Make sure you have the spring assembly tensioned with a nail in the rod's hole. If not, you have to compress the spring and put a nail in 3) Wriggle underneath the dash and get all your tools within reach. Turn the light on and make sure it stays put. 4) Pull off the air duct. Bend it where the corrugation is and pull one end at a time. 5) Push the clutch pedal down part way and look carefully at the place in the clutch mechanism where the "business end" of the spring will mate. You must clearly determine which side has the hexagonal hole. I spent a good half hour struggling with this, certain of my impeccable memory, until I realized I was trying to push a hexagonal end into a round hole and vice versa. 6) Now push the clutch pedal most or all of the way down. Point the spring assembly with the rod (with the nail in it) pointing straight up (vertical), and the cross bar on the other end of the spring assembly oriented so that hexagonal end is on the same side as the hexagonal hole in the clutch mechanism. Wiggle and rotate the spring assembly a little bit while pushing it up through the clutch mechanism; it doesn't take much wiggling and will go right through. Let the two little stubs on the sides of the spring assembly rest into the receptacles on the clutch mechanism. The spring is now in position for the next step. 7) This is the hard part, but once you figure it out it literally takes only a few seconds. It's hard because a lot of things have to line up right while you are holding the clutch pedal part way up. Let the clutch pedal up just a little bit and at the same time pivot the spring assembly around the stubs so the cross bar at the "business end" of the spring assembly meets its receptacles on the clutch mechanism. The rod (with nail) will be pointing somewhere into the passenger compartment. You will quickly see how much to pivot and how much to let the clutch up so they meet. Here again be absolutely sure you are matching hexagonal end with hexagonal hole. Once you have the cross bar just entering the receptacles, try letting the clutch pedal up a bit more and confirm that the spring assembly's cross bar ends snap into place in their receptacles. You may need to do this a couple of times, lining things up a little better each time. You'll figure it out but it would be nice to have a photo here. This is the part that if you are really good at this it takes just a few seconds. 8) Once the cross bar is in the receptacles, all the hard work is done. Let the clutch pedal out slowly and confirm that everything stays lined up and the spring's cross bar is fully engaged in the receptacles. Once you let the clutch pedal all the way up, the nail will either fall out or you can pull it out from the top, depending on which way it was put in originally. 9) Replace the air duct. You are done.

Mike - thanks for the instructions !! So this is exactly as I thought it needed to go. Now I need to figure out how to have the clutch engaged and at the same time wiggle the spring into the bracket. Holding it down with one hand and trying to fix the spring with the other doesn't do it for me as I clearly come 1 hand short I've seen people mention a dovel or stick but would't that be in the way on where I needed to lie in the end ? Thanks !

Without the right size dowel/broomstick, you would have to have monstrous arm strength at an awkward angle to push in the clutch. The stick absolutely does not get in the way, though it does seem it would. You anchor the stick on the passenger side of the drivers seat bend in the floor. Works perfect. I'll measure my stick and post. And I absolutely did learn (1972), and have always owned standard shift cars and trucks my whole life, though my current truck is an auto. The vague engagement of the clutch with the original spring has nothing to do with that at all, there is just zero feel of the where the clutch actually engages. Replacing the spring does make the clutch a little harder to use, but the feel is near perfect. If you think it is fine as is, then either your car is the exception, or you haven't tried the lighter spring mod and don't realize what you are missing. It is a HUGE improvement. BTW, the Home Depot kit comes with 2 long and 2 short springs. You do have to widen the actual ID of one end of the long spring with a pair of needle nose to make it seat right, but it is a very small amount. I also wondered if you can double up, one long, one short, end to end, as the long spring is pretty soft, and a slight stiffer one may help. Anyone try that?

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very good instructions, wish I had paid more attention before doing it this morning as I think I messed up step 7. It still worked though as the home depot spring tension is enough to keep the cross bar pushed again the clutch pedal assembly (hard to explain what I am trying to say) Clutch action is very much improved with a more "positive" feel of when it engages. Shifts are faster & smoother which makes heel & toe much easier to do. Anyone who feels that the pedal is too stiff after this mod seriously need to get back in shape. I have had bone stock cars with the same pedal stiffness.

is this a mod i can do on my 997.1? would love more feel to the clutch, it is late or i would go look now, but hopefully there will be good news here soon, cheers, kk

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This sounds weird, but I used my head to hold the pedal down. LOL It hurts a little bit, but it worked.

Did this over the holiday week. Was able to hold the pedal with hand. Feel is much more natural compared to before. Using the Home Depot spring, its not that much of an increase in effort. A worth while mod IMO

Hello Everyone, So I took out the clutch Spring today because like all of you, I felt the clutch was very unpredictable in 1st gear, all other gears felt fine but in 1st it felt like a hit and miss when trying to find the release point. So it feels much heavier now but the clutch release point is much more accurate. Unfortunately my father likes to drive the car and I have a feeling he's going to complain about the heavy clutch feel. So I ran to my local home depot to pick up the springs for those that have put on the lesser restricted springs. I live in Ontario Canada and sure enough, just like many other stuff, our canadian home depot don't supply these springs.... So I was wondering at my expense of course, if someone is willing to buy me the 4 pack and ship it to my address in Ontario and I will pay you paypal or if you happen to have an extra spring and can ship it to me, I'm more than willing to cover the shipping cost and a little extra for your convenience. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Robert M.

Great thread - gotta keep it going! A year ago I bought a 2007 Cayman S and became quite disenchanted by the lack of engagement feel at the clutch pedal. That's what got me searching and finding this thread. And props to everyone who has contributed in a meaningful way to the discussion. Just yesterday a 2003 996 I had bought was delivered from back east. To my great surprise, I'm finding that the clutch pedal is VERY heavy/stiff - order-of-magnitude, twice the effort my Cayman requires. As I recall in reading through all 25 pages of this thread, there have been several posters who said that in seeking a more friendly-feeling clutch pedal, when they removed the spring they were surprised to find that it can out in pieces, i.e., it had broken. For any of you guys who have experienced this, does my heavy-effort clutch pedal seem symptomatic of what you found? Thanks, Cororadocurt

I have a Very heavy clutch. Of course I removed the "helper" spring entirely. Have you looked under the dash to see if you have a spring in there at all?

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I haven't looked yet for my 996's spring, but my sense of it from my reading is that those who removed the spring noticed a "somewhat increase" in the pedal effort. I dare say that this 996's pedal effort as nearly twice what my Cayman's is. I've drive standard shift, performance-oriented cars for over a half century, and this is far-and-away the stiffest clutch. So back to my original question: do any of you who found your spring to have been broken recall an extremely heavy clutch pedal effort prior to that discovery.

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I'm one of the guys whose spring came out in pieces. I also had my clutch fail last year The two scenarios felt very similar, so it could be either (or both) issues that are making your clutch stiff. In my case it was the spring plate that failed not the friction plate. This is pretty common I think and tends to occur around 80,000 miles if the car hasn't been "lady driven". You don't say what miles are on your car, but its a reference point. I should note that after I changed my clutch (to a sport clutch no less) the pedal was light as a feather. Just the way I like it. I don't quite inderstand the clutch spring "debate". I've had 40 cars, all of them manual and the 996 clutch with helper spring feels just great to me. Conversely. It felt heavy and numb when the spring was broken.

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Thanks. That's the sort of feedback I'm looking for. Unfortunately, I have almost zero information about the 4 previous owners (all in the Southeast). One hint I have is that "someone" installed a K&N intake - so that's a sign of an "enthusiast" but no reading on expertise with a clutch. From CarFax, this vehicle sold new 11 years ago to the month, and now has about 76K miles. The four registered private-party owners, and from purchase to trade-in account for 8 yrs/0 Mo. and 68.7K miles. Of the difference of 3 years and 8K miles as of now (including a thousand mile road trip by the dealer selling it to me) appears to have the last 2 yrs/1 Mo. spent bouncing around Florida from one dealer to another (including the most recent 8 months since bought at auction by the Kentucky dealer). The other 11 months seems to have been time spent between trade-in and resale. In terms of length of ownership in yrs/Mo.- 1st owner, 3 yrs/4Mo 2nd owner, 1yr/6Mo 3rd owner, 2yrs/1Mo 4th owner, 2yrs/1Mo So for me, the 5th owner, it's an over/under question: do I keep it longer than #1, or sell it quicker than #2? Now the challenge is to find and "fix" whatever was causing it to be such a orphan for so long. And I'm suspicious that this clutch issue may have been an underlying factor behind all of this short-ownership history. I'll start by looking into the spring issue (and when I say "heavy" what comes to mind is "dump-truck heavy." If that doesn't resolve the problem, dropping the tranny will be the next move. I'm planning to have the car up on jackstands for the next couple of months anyway, and if the tranny gets dropped, the IMS "fix" will be a must-do item. Jasper, can you provide more specific info on the sport clutch you installed (brand, part number, etc.)?

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RED - were you able to source a spring yet ?

Hello Colorado; I installed the sport clutch because of circumstance, not necessarily by choice. I installed a liteweight flywheel you see, and that required me to buy a spring centred clutch disc. This in turn meant that I had to buy a pressure plate separately instead of as part of a normal clutch kit. Since the sport clutch was about the same price as a stock clutch I figured what the hell. The flywheel was an AASCO. I bought this off of a Rennlister. The spring centred clutch disc was SACHS part 88-1861-999-856-M410. The pressure plate is SACHS part 88-3082-999-754-M410. All are available from Pelican. These parts plus the throwout bearing were about $1200. If I had stuck with the stock dual mass flywheel I would have just bought a stock clutch kit from Pelican for only $700. For street and occasional track use the stock clutch would be more than adequate. By the way - from your description of the car and the mileage - my guess is you need a clutch. Better replace it now before it fails on the road and while you're in there you can replace your IMSB with either a ceramic part or maybe the new LN engineering pressure fed system. In my case, my engine was replaced in 2005 (under warranty by the PO) and the new engine had the larger Porsche updated bearing which can not be serviced from the outside so I had no choice but to leave it be. I'm not worried - the re haven't been a lot of (or any?) failures of the big bearings documented here Good luck with the car - I'm sure it will be fine.

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Just finished after having to spend about 1.5 hours in an inverted position. I lost the little pin that goes in the spring cartridge. It's somewhere in my hollow clutch pedal, lol. This vacuum hose approach is something that I should have just started with. It's a bitch to get the new (softer spring) cartridge back in. Not worth it, and I'm not sure I'd like it even with the reduced assistance. I like it just perfectly with no assistance. Thanks for the tip! Now I don't feel as if the 90 minutes I spent inverted was for naught. I've got my CC back (I think).

I know this is an old thread... but my 996 is relatively new to me. I removed the stock clutch helper spring and decided that after a few months of building muscles in my left leg, I'd put a spring back in. I bought the Home Depot spring #16084 and went to put the new spring in the spring case but the spring seems to have an Inner Diameter that is too small. Any ideas on this? This is on a '99 cabriolet if it matters. The spring just seems too small. TIA.

I noticed the same thing when I looked at the Home Depot spring in the store. I've been driving w/o a spring since about Dec, but would like to put something back in so the cruise works consistently. I found a spring that seems like it will work well at Ace. It wasn't labeled other than as a #50. Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to put it in yet.

Never mind. I found a post where it is mentioned that the Home Depot spring must be widened a bit to fit properly. I used some pliers and twisted the spring. Eventually it fit in the shell.

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Yes, extremely heavy. photo(18).JPG

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+1. That's what I did. Just grab the spring by grasping inside each end with pliers and "untwisting" the spring to increase it's inside diameter. It only needs a bit of help to fit in the housing.

Not to stick my nose in (again), but that Home Depot spring doesn't look like it'll do much. (I don't know if that's your intention or what) Spring rate changes with the 4th power of the wire diameter. The Home Depot spring is a lot thinner wire than the original. Bill

Wow sandersd. Your spring was broken into pieces like that when you took it out? Or did you cut it up? I test drove the car with the Home Depot spring and so far I love it. The clutch is stiffer (i.e. the HD spring helps less) than with the OEM spring but I still have good engagement feel. The clutch is much lighter than without a spring at all. I live in the middle of some steep hills so my clutch is put to the test every day.

Have you tried out the McMaster-Carr spring that was discussed years ago? # 9657k142 It has closed and ground ends like the original. The Porsche spring is 0.142" diameter wire, vs. 0.120" for the 9657k142. Overall length is ~ 4-1/8" for the factory spring vs. 3-1/2" for the 9657k142. ID is 0.79" vs. 0.77" for the 9657k142. Spring rates are 58#/inch vs. 40#/inch. What specs do you have (or measured) from the Home Depot spring for comparison? Bill

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Unbeknownst to me it was like that when I bought it and I drove it that way for four years thinking that's just the way the clutch was on a Porsche. When I removed the old spring to replace it that was the way it came out.

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Yes, that was the point. The Home Depot spring does almost nothing. It has enough force to keep the clutch pedal from wobbling when not in use, and enough force to actuate the microswitch (used to disengage cruise control), but barely contributes to helping push in the clutch. Perfect.

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OK, I understand now what you're trying to do. Bill

Hello guys... Just read all 26 pages. To keep a 100 year old thread going I have a few questions but first some background. I just purchased my first 911. 03 C4S w/ 78k miles. One thing I liked was the heavy/decisive clutch that had a small range for engagement and felt great (plus who among us that sits at a desk all day long doesn't need to strengthen their non-dominant left foot). I thought it was what a Porsche clutch was suppose to be. It reminded me of the racing clutch I had in my NSX that I loved. Small engagement zone and worked fast. Then Porsche noted on the PPI that it was heavy and needed to be looked at. I did that on my own and bought the spring. So I'm sitting here with the spring in my hand and find this thread when looking for instructions on how to install this bad boy. Now I'm really conflicted. So first question... anyone have mega miles with the clutch spring delete (not weaker spring but total delete) that can report that they aren't prematurely damaging throw out bearings/clutch/etc. I'd pick a good feeling clutch over cruise control any day of the week as long as I'm not damaging anything on the car in doing so. Plus it's not that hard to use my foot to pull the clutch pedal into place to throw cruise control on. As it sits right now... I can't help but wonder if I might be getting some assist help since I have one installed that's just worn out a bit. Wondering if I should leave it in or take it out. If I take it out might be harder to clutch (but might be better who knows right). Thinking about trying my damaged one out and new one in. If I try it in I can verify that this is the issue and not that the heavy pedal is a sign that I need a new clutch. If I leave it in the bag I can return it and put the $80 into fixing other stuff. Haha. Second question... If I put the new spring in and it's a cushy/wimpy clutch I read that it can be adjusted. Anyone successfully done that and did adjusting the oem spring make a difference. Ideally if leaving it out can possibly damage something I'd prefer to use the new oem spring and adjust it to be as heavy/decisive as possible. I see guys mention the article about adjusting but no one commenting on if it helped/what it did. I'll likely go experiment on my own but not able to get any of the previous pics loaded so a little lost on it all. Thanks in advance if anyone can shed some light on this topic for me.

I think what I did was a very good solution. I drove w/o a spring from Dec-April as a daily driver. The feel was great, but I got tired of not having cruise control. In April I put in a lighter than stock spring from Ace which is a happy medium. I'm glad I drove spring-less for 4 months, because my left foot has the muscle memory of where the engagement point is. Now I get working cruise, and while not as great of feel as no spring, I don't need to search for the engagement point, because I remember where it is.

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I run without a spring, and by necessity, as another member suggested, I just zip tied a 3/4" piece of vacuum line to the pedal, right where it contacts the sensor for the cruise control. After a day or two, it wasn't really working because the piece of vacuum line would slip down under the bump on the pedal. So, I took *another* piece of vacuum line and then ziptied that to the first piece. Problem is now solved -- cruise control is 100%. And I'm not running a spring. If, in the future, that doesn't work, I'll get *another* piece of vacuum line and zip tie that to the others, making for one heck of a hack, but at least it's all sprung weight :-) It was almost comedic when I lost the pivot pin for the spring housing, which forced me down this vacuum line path. Somehow, the little 1" steel pivot pin was stuck on the top of the clutch pedal. In an effort to have it drop down to the floor, I pressed the clutch and then let it go, hoping that it would shoot up vertically, and then land on the floormat. No such luck. In a 1 in a million shot, it went right down the middle of the clutch pedal, which is hollow for several inches at the top. Oh well. It's not worth me fishing out -- my hack works.

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I attempted this today. It took me about 15 minutes from start to finish. I have included a picture for reference. As you can see, I am Pablo Picasso's disciples. For those of you with the 996.2 (2002 - 2004) here is what is required: 1. Remove the airduct. You will see it when you get underneath the dash. The airduct has an "accordian" to it so you and pull it out. I pulled on the left side (window side) then pushed the accordian part towards the car. It will pop out. Slide the right side out. 2. Find a hook or nail (or something stiff) and insert it through the hole at the end of the assembly. Make sure it's secure. 3. Take your flat head screwdriver and pop the circlip off the rod. This part should be effortless. (Correction - the clip IS in the photo.) 4. Okay, here's the hard part - use your free hand/arm to push the clutch in as far as you possibly can. Take your flat head screwdriver and pry the rod off (towards your face.) Don't worry, nothing will fall on your face. The key is to have the clutch pushed in as far as possible, enabling you to pry the rod off the holder. Be patient and give it some effort - it WILL come off! 5. Push the assembly TOWARDS the front of the car (towards the frunk.) It should simply slide off. If it isn't doing so, it's likely the rod didn't pop out underneath the holder. If this is the case, get into your seat, push the clutch all the way and push the assembly UP so the rod points DOWN. 6. The assembly should slide off. You may need to fiddle with it, but it WILL slide off. 7. Re-insert the airduct. Installation is the same as removal. Start with the window/left side first. Give yourself a pat on the back and drive the car like it was meant to be driven.

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I did this mod today. Last weekend, I was under the pedals doing the GT2 slave cylinder conversion - so I was already all too familiar with what goes on down there, but wanted to say thanks for the DIY anyway. Should have done THIS mod first, honestly. The GT2 setup is soo freakin' stiff that I almost got myself into trouble a few times trying to keep the clutch pedal depressed. So there's a tip for the next guy. Also, might help to have someone else around juuuuust in case you get jammed up. That woulda saved me a ton of frustration and a wee bit of panic. -V

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was the clutch so stiff it was going to overpower your leg muscles? what almost happened

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Well, see, I had left my x-ray glasses in my other pants, so I was doing this on my back with my head under the pedals so that I could actually see what was going on. That meant using an arm to push a VERY stiff clutch back, over my head or behind my shoulder while I'm already contorted in an awkward position, fumbling with the spring setup in the other hand. But it all worked out okay, and I got to spare my leg muscles the embarrassment. -V

i still don't know, will this work for a 997 as well?

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Don't know what? If you'll do it or not? Not sure about the 997, but I'm assuming that there's got to be an analog process. Maybe it's different spring, maybe it's the same, I honestly have no idea. What I will say though is that for a 996 Turbo with a GT2 slave cylinder setup, this mod had a very minor impact on the clutch stiffness, but with my extremely grippy ERP carbon clutch, every little bit helps in feeling the engagement point. -V

There were a few folks who swapped it with the spring itself from the 997 (not the whole assembly.) They much preferred it over the stock spring in the 996. Having said that, the 997 also has this spring helper so yes, it can be removed and re-installed upon personal preferences.

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well, i don't know if it will work in a 997...if it does, i will do it, or maybe have it done, i'm getting old and kindof un/inflexible...

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ahh, ok , i read this after replying to the previous post, so i am going to see if i can find someone to do this , anyone know of a good mechanic in solingen...?

I just did this mod using the McMaster-Carr spring. The result was a HUGE improvement in feel with only a minor increase in clutch effort. I can now feel and modulate the engagement point where, with the stock spring, I felt I was always just guessing. In fact, with the old spring it seemed the engagement point was always moving around and extremely nonlinear in its rate of take-up. With the lighter spring, everything is firmer and I can launch with a lot more confidence. My mechanic drove it and said it was much more "997-like." Anyway, those are my two cents. Highly recommended.

Geez, time flies! It's been over 7 years since I started this thread and haven't yet done this mod on my 996TT yet. I really don't like the thought of nearly throwing up and getting dizzy, and thankfully the TT clutch stock is much better than the N/A one. But I'm sure this mod will make the TT feel even better so it will be on my to do list.

I just ordered the McMaster 9657k142 springs for this mod. 6 are coming. If anyone needs one let me know. I have been using the Home Depot spring for a while and am hoping the new springs will provide more "help".

still waiting...

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Absolutely! I agree completely. When I originally posted my complaint was 2-fold: The clutch was extremely heavy (turns out that the disc was down to the rivets) and the vague feel on engagement. I used the McMaster-Carr spring as well, and now the improvement on feel is huge.

For those that changed the spring to a lighter one, what's the best way to get the old spring out of the housing (by releasing the pin/nail) without it flying out and hurting someone??

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I put it SECURELY in a large vise, and then used slowly opened the vise to release the spring compression.

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Makes sense, except the rod sticks out of the spring housing - how do you clamp the vice around the rod?

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Hmmm. I know I used my vise, but it's been a few years. I think I just used two blocks of wood to support the round housing on either side of the rod.

So I put in the McMaster 9657k142 spring. As far as I can tell, its the best alternative out there. I have tried: 1) The original OEM spring - maybe too much help, hard to get the feel of the clutch 2) No spring at all - I think I ripped a groin muscle because of this 3) The Home Depot spring - Still pretty heavy but good feel 4) The McMaster 9657k142 - Nice balance between effort and feel; feels well balanced with the accelerator. I'm sending out my extra McMaster springs to anyone that asks. If anyone still needs one, I have one that is not claimed.

I'll take it if you still have it! I've been using the home Depot spring as well, I though it was very good. Didn't realize the MMC spring was better. So it is lighter still than the HD one?

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Perryivan, are these springs available from the web. Please provide a link if possible. I am not happy with the heaviness of my clutch. New clutch kit, slave cylinder and clutch helper spring. Still heavy.

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I removed my clutch helper spring about 2 months ago because of the inconsistent engagement in first gear. The clutch felt heavy but was more predictable. After waiting in line for 9 autocross laps this weekend I decided to try the McMaster 9657k142 spring that SJG1138 was nice enough to send me. The results are fantastic! It acts and feels like a clutch should in my opinion. I also purchased the Home Depot spring but I never put it in because looked too light and I didn't think it was worth spending an hour upside down with a mop handle in my face. My thanks to whoever suggested using a mop on the back of the seat to depress the clutch using the power seat switch!

I got the McMaster spring from sgj1138 (thanks Steve!). Can't wait to try it out!

I'm very happy with the improved "feel" using the McMaster spring, but I have an annoying - and barely audible - click sound as the clutch pedal comes up. For others of you using this spring, is this common? If so, does it go away over time? And now that doing this mod is familiar and I'm guessing much easier the 2nd time, is there a suspected cause and solution?

So i am 6'3 and 220, do you guys take out the front seat to get in there?? i came in from the side (using my jeep back seat as a platform to lay on from the drivers door) but dang that is hard to wad up in there and no way will i be able to press down pedal with the broom stick or helping hand. I am going to do ignition switch at same time, so want to limit my time in the "hole" any suggestions?

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When you say to "pry the rod towards your face", which rod are you talking about? The one that had the clip on it?

^ Yes sir!

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Thank you. I'm trying to do this now but my clip on the rod appears different than what's posted here. Mine is pretty much refusing to pop off.

Holy crap look at this thing. Nasty. Clutch feel is so much better now. God knows what the previous owner did with this one.

I used my vise too. I liked no spring at all but Mrs Ditto couldn't drive it without a spring so I went with the McMaster spring.

You got it off! Wonderful!

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whats that spunk in your spring????

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Buncha funky spunk. Someone greased that sucker up.

Well my cruise control no longer works without the spring. Looks like I need to install the McMaster spring. Anyone happen to have a spare I can buy? Or anyone want to split a new order of them?

Ouch, I did not realize cruise control no longer works without the spring. It's not a feature I would ever use, but yikes.

"It's not a feature I would ever use, but yikes." Seriously? I couldn't live without cruise control... It pisses me off when people keep speeding up and slowing down on the highway

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I think it's hit or miss. Unfortunately my clutch pedal has just enough play in it that it doesn't always come back and fully depress the cruise safety switch. I may improvise and put a rubber cap on the end of the safety switch to bridge the gap between the switch and the pedal.

Update: probably the most ghetto fix I've done to a car, but it was handy and worked perfectly. I removed the cruise control safety switch from under the dash and took it apart. I noticed that the plunger mechanism has ridges on the internal shaft which appeared to allow the protrusion length of the plunger piece to be adjusted. I adjusted it to it's longest length. I then reassembled the switch and reinstalled under the dash. <caution: next sentence may induce face palm> I then took on of my son's unused pencil erasers. It's the type that comes separate from a pencil and goes over the top of the old eraser. I cut off nearly all of the top solid section and put the remaining, mostly-hollow section over the plastic plunger of the cruise safety switch. The above two actions bridged the gap just enough between the clutch pedal arm and the plunger of the safety switch. Additionally, I figure the soft rubber of the eraser will prevent any sort of excessive wear that could occur.

Good solution! Not ghetto at all. I believe a few other members here did the same thing using a pencil eraser top! So just so I understand, you need something at the tip of the pedal to touch the switch, correct? I believe mine is just touching it, but does it need to further protrude? Mike

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That's correct. The gap needs to be closed down enough for the clutch to touch and depress the safety switch. I think my solution of adjusting the plunger length on the safety switch might have been enough to do this, but I added the eraser top for added measure. I'll likely reinstall the clutch booster spring if/when I can find a McMaster spring to use. Till then, I think this works quite well.

Let me know if you decide to order the McMaster spring. I wouldn't mind splitting the cost with you and a few others. Mike

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Will do if I can round up 4 others. Thanks Mike.

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Haha...It's only ghetto if you can see it and it LOOKS ghetto (i.e. shaving creme cap...) If it holds up, that's all the better!

Could anyone there in the States look up the specs of the McMaster spring please...so I can try find a suitable one here in the UK. Thanks in advance

This is the link to the spring with all the specs on it. http://www.mcmaster.com/#9657k142

Thanks for that! Appreciated

I'd chip in for one of those McMasterCarr springs. PM me.

McMaster Spring 1. islaTurbine 2. bcrdukes 3. Larry Hughes 4. 5.

A little fugal are we? $10.50 for a package of 6... C'mon guys pony up! Sorry, I couldn't help myself

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Should we add you to the list? :-)

I think it's dporto's way of saying, "Hey Rennlist, McMaster springs are on me!"

I removed the helper spring yesterday. Not too bad but do remove the vent duct. I LOVE IT! The car has a whole different personality. Feels like a Porsche again. As to the cruise control, gently, GENTLY, extend the plunger so it meets the revised pedal position. In my case it took two clicks. Everything work perfectly. Best mod yet to my 996. Thanks all. Larry

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The click you're hearing is probably either the cruise control switch or the ignition lock switch . You can crawl under there and manually activate each one with your hand to find out for sure though.

Would anyone be willing to help out an Irish 996 owner McMaster dont seem to post international, I'd be greatful and will pay all costs if a member would mail a spring to a friend of mine in Tenessee. I'm visiting him in two weeks and can bring home myself. Thanks

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Sure, what the hell! I'm in...

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1. islaTurbine 2. bcrdukes 3. dporto 4. 5. 6. Larry Hughes was third on the list but he PM'd me that he's going to stay spring-less. Neil_Ireland, unfortunately none of us have the spring yet. I could add you to the list and get the order going, but I can't guarantee that I'll have the springs delivered from McMaster and to your friend in two weeks. Let me know.

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I'd happily pay postage/costs to Ireland if a member would post one?

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Id take one. Can you add me to the list?

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1. islaTurbine 2. bcrdukes 3. dporto 4. GLIDE 5. 6. I've been exchanging PMs with Neil_Ireland. Once I hear back from him I'll put in the order.

Thank you sir!

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My pleasure. I'll place the order hopefully this weekend. Currently at the DFW airport and in the process of getting blitzed by this weather. Will order as soon as I can.

The list as it stands now is as follows: 1. islaTurbine 2. bcrdukes 3. dporto 4. GLIDE 5. Neil_Ireland 6. I'll send a PM to you all shortly.

I'll take spot - I mean spring - number 6 if it is still available. Pm me.

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Will do! 1. islaTurbine 2. bcrdukes 3. dporto 4. GLIDE 5. Neil_Ireland 6. PCarSD

islaTurbine - You have PM!

Just a thought from a Meat Servo ( what my A&P calls us pilots ). *<]:0) Why can't you take the original spring out and Dremel off two coils and flatten the top with a a sanding wheel. Then put it back together and reinstall? Anyone try this? David

Removed my spring today. Wow, pedal is MUCH more firm than I anticipated it would be, pedal pressure is more firm than my Viper ACR. But clutch engagement is now enjoyable instead of a vague empty world of pedal travel. Worth the 5-10 min to remove it. If you spend a lot of time in traffic, don't do this.

I noticed on the attached diagram on the first page of this thread, it says for a 2005 996 Is it the same for the older 996, like my 2000 C4 I am installing a new clutch next week and this may enhance the performance of the new clutch

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Same. I have a '99.

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Here's some helpful information on the removal:

paypal payment made! Sorry it took so long, as I'm traveling at the moment

The replacement of the spring is much easier if you have an assistant (female preferably) to push the clutch in while you get the spring assembly out (and while you put it back in). Its very close quarters and you will be between your assistant's legs but its much easier than trying to hold the clutch down yourself...

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How did you remove the OEM spring from the housing? Someone recommended a vice but I can't figure out how to put it into a vice without possibly cracking or breaking the plastic end.

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Ditto. I can't seem to get the hook out. It's stuck on pretty tight.

If I recall (I don't have a vice) I put the end opposite the pin in it on a hard surface (concrete), pushed down hard on the shell with my thumbs with as much weight as I could, and had my lovely assistant use a pair of pliers to pull out the pin. Be really careful because as soon as you release the tension on the outer shell, the spring and everything else is going to go flying. Eye protection is recommended. Luckily the new spring that you are putting back in does not have nearly the stiffness of the old spring so its pretty easy to gt the new spring back into the shell. No assistant required.

Ok so here's what I did. To remove the old spring I used 6 bricks, one laying face down on each side of the spring to make a protective box in case the spring flew apart. Then I put two on top on each side around where the little pin juts out of the back. I used the two bricks to evenly press down onto the piece and then my wife removed the small allen wrench that was in the hole of the pin. To re-install the unit with the new McMaster spring installed, I did not use the broom handle tip to hold the clutch. It was putting too much pressure on my seat, even with a thick towel as a buffer. It was indenting my leather and foam and I didn't want to ruin it. So I had my wife (giggity...) help. Insert the round pin (with the clip removed off the end) into the rod/spring with the big plastic end. The hex head of the pin should face the passenger side of the car. I had my wife then push the clutch all the way in and I inserted the unit into the holding assembly brackets. Make sure the spring unit is parallel to the ground when you do so. Then I had her slowly release the clutch and I guided the pin and unit into the mounting on the clutch arm. After this, I had to get the hex head of the pin in the correct position to properly seat it into the mount on the clutch arm. So I had my wife apply just enough pressure to the clutch to release some tension on the pin and I used needle nose pliers to slowly rotate the hex head of the pin until it was in the proper position. I then used a flat head screwdriver in-between the hex head of the pin and the mounting bracket directly across from it, and levered the pin securely into the clutch arm. You have to do this a few times in order to determine if you actually get it into the correct position. The hex head will press flush into the side of mount on the clutch arm. I then had my wife push the clutch in a little bit more to give me room to reattach the metal clip onto the pin (facing the drivers side of the car). I used needle nose pliers to hold the clip and allow me to reach up and slide it onto the end of the pin. Hope this helps.

Finally got around to removing my spring today after putting in the Function First Transmission Mount Inserts last week. Hoping that the combination brings my driving experience to a new level. But given the weather in NJ this weekend, I won't find out until some time next week. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the helpful hints on how to get the spring out. Since I don't know whether I'm going to like the new feel or want to go with the McMaster replacement, I ordered 6 of the McMaster springs. I'll hold onto one, but if anyone wants one of the other 5, PM me your name and address and I'll send it out. No payment necessary, just pay it forward somehow...give the $5 to a homeless person or someone else less fortunate that could really use it.

"No payment necessary, just pay it forward somehow...give the $5 to a homeless person or someone else less fortunate that could really use it." Very cool! I've already got a spring, but I'm sure someone will take you up on your very kind and generous offer

Anybody tried this on the 987? I imagine it will be exactly the same process / with the same improved clutch feel? Local garage just replaced my spring and now I can't feel a thing, I think removal is the way forward. However I don't want to have to use steroids to be able to press the pedal Any thoughts would be great

Re: steroids... Thespring only helps the first part of the stroke so max pedal force should not change, only percieved force.

Boxster S 987 Took the plunge... Clutch assist spring out Was a relatively Easy job. No need to remove any of the dash or air ducting. All I needed was a Flat head screw driver and standard pliers Took around 10 mins max Results... Feels like a completely new car. When launching It feels like a rocket, but also with So much more control. Pedal isn't too heavy at all, easy to manipulate. Don't anticipate any problems while sitting in traffic etc Big smile when driving I would urge anyone reading this to do it immediately.

Yep did mine this weekend end 2001 996 C4. Wife's car and she said it was FANTASTIC!!! I drove the car today and echo that response clutch is going to last much longer now because we won't be slipping it through the mushiness of the engagement point.

Hi guys! Was wondering I anyone's clutch pedal was "loose" (moves maybe a 1/4 inch side to side and up and down) after doing this? My spring actually shattered, and had clearly been broken for a while as my clutch pedal was pretty heavy. But once it completely let go my clutch pedal had this looseness about it. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Cool tip, thanks. Try driving a 996 after being in a GT3 (a "real" one with a manual transmission ....) Huge difference.

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If you can observe the spring action while someone is pushing the clutch pedal, you'll be able to see that the spring completely dislodges from the mount when the pedal is fully depressed. I don't think the spring would be causing the issue you describe. Dunno.

Ok guys, I just did this mod, removing the clutch spring assist assy For some reason I put my foot on the clutch pedal, just enough to rest on it, without pushing it in. While doing so, I feel a lot of vibration being transmitted through the pedal, is this normal, does it happen to everyone else?

NOT: I put it back on my C2!

+1 great upgrade, yes the pedal pressure is more but within a few trips the improvement far outweighed the increase in effort. Funny because in 2000 I bought a Boxster and brought it back to the dealer several times complaining about the clutch operation. At one point they even suggested replacing the clutch. I sold the car 7 months later to buy my 72 911; in hind sight it was the spring I dissliked the whole time

If you want an alternative spring to experiment with,this may work? It is 15/16" diameter x 4" long x 0.148" wire .Part # SP9732. See EBay links below. The stock spring is 75lbs/inch and about 4" long The McMaster Carr spring # 9657k142 is 39lbs/inch but only 3-1/2" long. The deficiency in length is a problem? If so, check McMaster Carr #9657K136. This is slightly larger diameter(1.25" vs 1")Is there space for the larger o.d.? It is 57 lbs vs 39 (or 75lbs.for OEM) Fully compressed it is longer than the short spring 2.81" vs 2.31" Is that 1/2" a problem? You can buy just one spring in # 9657k136 or this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/131476133178?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-16-O-D-X-...item4d28bf16c3

Is the booster spring assembly needed at all? Can I run without it completely?

I removed mine all together. It's certainly harder to engage but I dont commute with the car so its not a big issue. Try it, you can always go back.

Hello all, I am having a small problem with removing the canister. I have a 1999 C2, so it does not have the round clevis with pin and e-clip. It has the half open faced clevis with a double headed pin (I think). I removed the vent, put a nail in the hole and pushed clutch in. Do I just pop out the pivot point in the gold bracket and pull out the cartridge? I can't seem to see why I need pliers or a flat head screw driver for removal. It seems like I am missing something, like will this version of the canister just fall off the clevis pin? Do I need to pry it out? Sorry for asking I have read this thread a few times and I am just unclear on how the clevis part gets removed from canister end and the clutch pedal frame. Thanks in advance.

ok, i have just done it to my 997 and it is dramatically different....no sh*t... though i just removed the spring/cannister all together and it leaves me with a '56 ford 3 on the tree feeling... if ya know what i mean,,, little sloppy, but GREAT!, i will find a lesser spring to replace the old monster with and i am sure with just slight tension it will clean up the action, funny thing, now that i can feel the clutch quite a bit more it has me just slightly concerned that, at 35k km's it feels like it is biting a bit high, like 1/2 way, but that is probably ok, until now i have just been concerned with trying not to stall and making smooth shifts...a constant battle, in my mind anyway, so...film at 11...

or, not...

I tried it without the spring , then did the clutch kit , drove it for a bit It was a lot smoother with the new clutch . Then I thought I'd put the spring back in , and I decided I'd put a new one in . I like it best of all now . If you're not happy with the feel , you might try a new spring , it's cheap and worth a shot to get the feel you like

I just purchased a 99 C2 a couple months ago and did this mod in the morning. IT IS A MUST for anyone looking for additional clutch engagement feel. Although this mod increases the pedal effort, I found the feel much more natural therefore increasing the smoothness of taking off, rev-matching/downshifting, and shifting through the gears. I have the old spring cannister style with an open C to connect it to the clutch pedal. My steps for removal are below for anyone looking for more perspective. Step 1: remove the plastic HVAC duct for more access to the spring cannister Step 2: stick a nail through the hole at end of the spring cannister and hold this nail in place with your finger (hand 1) Step 3: fully depress your clutch pedal (hand 2) and let go of the nail (it should be snug now that the spring has expanded due to a depressed pedal) Step 4: continue depressing the pedal (hand 2) and use your free hand (hand 1) to wiggle out the spring cannister I installed RSS motor mounts and black F1 transmission inserts before this mod and now everything is coming together VERY nicely! IMO pedal feel was garbage before with the power spring. Hope this helps!

Good info. Adding to my list.

don't know if i added this or not, but i have removed the spring and put in a much lighter one, mostly just to keep it from being sloppy, which it does admirably, and the set up now is unfugginbelievable(ala fish called wanda...) and this is a 997S, X51...just WOW, will never go back...

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Got a part number per chance?

for the lighter spring? sorry, it was something i found in my junk drawer, a big junk drawer...

Junior 23 So did you just remove the spring canister all together not putting in a different Spring??

so i am enjoying this to no end...as many say...transforms the car....i wouldn't say that, but thats just me, ccause, indeed, it does just that, never go back, i can;t, i WON'T...

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That's correct! I just pulled out the cruise control switch (extended the button) so the clutch pedal rests against it (to retain the function) and left the spring out. I don't think I'll put one back in. Before I did this mod, the spring was squeaky and my clutch engagement felt like I had issues with the slave or master cylinder and/or clutch. But after taking the spring out, the engagement is smooth as butter and ZERO noises. While I was down there I was able to inspect my master cylinder and no problems there.

Just to update my time with this mod.. I've done two lapping days with the clutch helper spring out and the shifter and engagement still feels great. In addition to a newly installed 997 shifter box, I have no doubt that this has improved my driving experience. For (5) minutes of your time, this mod is definitely worth a try!

I removed the clutch helper spring and at first thought it was great, then it got old (the extra clutch presure) and I noticed I was stalling more... I put the stock spring back and I'd never go back, not to mention I could never get a strong enough piece of tape to tape that switch that alters the functionality of the e-gas (would give you lag when you floor it SO frustrating!)... Also, I don't know how you guys are removing the pin that holds this spring in without breaking the plastic mount, my pin was inserted backwards and almost required removal of the clutch pedal to get it out. to each their own :shrug:

I just had my clutch replaced and my mechanic cleaned and lubed everything when he did the replacement. My clutch feel like one on a brand new car. Super smooth, and just the right pressure Oh yea, I have the stock booster spring

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what do you mean 'alters the functionality of the e-gas ' what is the 'e-gas' ,i ask because, i have had a hesitation ever since i took out and changed the spring...i noticed this when first starting the car, thought it was just the car being cold, but it is still there, thought maybe it was a dirty luftmassenmesser, or mass air flow sensor, you know, that wire that measures air flow just before the air intake and after the air filters......SO.....is there something in the clutch pedal package area , a switch, like you say that needs controlling or something,,,,,,,sure would explain a lot... and i could fix it, cause she still runs quite well....oh, almost forgot, i just filled up the other day, and coincidentally put in gas one step down from the highest octane,just cuz, wanted to try it and then thought maybe the rough engine was from this, but nahhh, how could it be as it had started weeks earlier...anyway, answers here are much appreciated...and sorry for the long ,whatever you would call it,anyway, look forward to hearing about this....

E-gas refers to the "electronic throttle cable". '99 was the last year of and actual throttle cable before it became electronic. You might search throttle body calibration and try that or put it back to stock.

i thought so, wondering though, how does this interfere or interact with the clutch mechanism, and where is the sending unit for the e-gas, i will try resetting throttlebody... thanks,

porsche people are the only boners in the world that call a drive by wire system "e-gas" it's super annoying

well, bone on, just get'er done, what does the m3 use?

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Ignore him. He lost the genetic lottery and seems hell bent on sharing his misfortunes with us.

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that you need no help... guess those 996's are perfect...

You misunderstand. I was advising you to ignore m3driver's "boner" post. He is consistently posting useless crap. Sorry for the confusion.

oops, or whoops, a bigger oops, my bad, please excuse my crass response, my wife drives a 996 and it has actually been the better car in many ways, please accept my apology, sometimes my mouth gets in the way, all good, cheers...and i post here because of the 99%+ rate of friendly and helpful porsche caretakers here...

Will I have the same benefit on my 997 Turbo? I tried to remove it today (unsuccessfully)...man it's a tight squeeze and I'm not that big at 6' 205lbs. I'm having trouble finding a suitable pin/nail/allen key to stay in place. I did see how the canister gets loose when to press the clutch with the pin so at this point do you rotate the canister to get it out of the slots? Should the clutch be all the way in or part way to get it out? Then attempt to remove the c clip and pin from the other end? Also, on the Turbo, once you've pressed the clutch a few times it's no longer "assisted" and is as stiff as a GT3RS clutch so I'm having a hard time holding it down while holding the pin in and also trying to wiggle the canister out. I'm almost tempted to get the dealer to remove it...my hands are all scratched and cut lol I really don't know how some of you are doing this in 10minutes...you guys have some skill. TIA.

what i did on my 997S was i took off the lower dash on that side, there are threads that will give you a step by step assist....i tried doing itwith that in place and we are about the same size... there was no way i could manage that...with the dash removed it was a whole different thing, you can see what you need to do and get 2 hands on it...i used a wire from a large paper clip holder thing, you can see what kind of wire you need much better when you can see in there, could even manage a headlamp to help see...once i got it done was like getting a new car, will never go back....REALLY WORTH THE EFFORT...! good luck... !!

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It seems the setup under there is different for the 997, the spring isn't even visible except you remove the lower dash. Can you point me to a guide of how to remove the lower dash please?

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https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...d-removal.html

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Thanks!

Gentlemen does anyone know the procedure for a right hand drive car? So far i've been able to put the holding pin in place, pop out the C clip, push the clutch all the way to the floor. I can see the rod/bolt that needs to be removed but there is a gold plate in the way? I can see 90% of the bolt but it appears that if I was to move it the gold plate is preventing it from dropping out. My intention is to re-install a new booster spring that I have already purchased.

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i think i have that famous squeak - when depressing the second half of the way down - it looks like the spring is inside a cylinder - is it? - fully enclosed? - if so what is the best way to lubricate? thanks

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I read this somewhere. A quick search hasn't turned it up. The gist of what happens when you disengage the clutch is: 1 the cruise drops out to keep the engine from racing 2 the ECU gets a signal to "soften" the E gas to help ease clutch re-engagement so it will last longer. My guess is if your clutch switch engagement point is loose enough to make cruise intermittent it will also confuse the ECU.

I couldn't get the new spring in after getting the old one out. The new part has a much wider canister and mine is RHD so there must be some differences. Anyway going from a broken bound spring, to no spring to a new spring I can say that with the new spring is so much better. It's smoother to operate and easier to drive. That and my cruise control works again. I wouldn't have it any other way!

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Dan, Please post the PART NUMBER that did not fit so you can help others avoid the problem ?

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Sure, i'll get it off the invoice soon. It was definitely the correct part for my car (04' C2) as I didn't specify a part number to the dealership parts department when I ordered it due to there being quite a few variations. Anyway I think the reason I couldn't get it back in was there must be a difference in RHD and LHD cars in the pedal area. The labour charge was $315 (2 and a bit hours at classic pricing) and that was with me removing the old spring. They had to remove and re install my front seat. Worth it though!

I got to find out about the great clutch when you remove the power spring by default. I got my 997 a few months ago and I have always felt the clutch was rather stiff, but with time I got used to it. I took the car out all day on Saturday for some real battering and there was heavy traffic, I came back home exhausted from all the clutch work, it wasn't a nice experience, I can't imagine this as a DD to work. So I decided to look under the dash and I found out the problem, no power spring! This was one of the reasons the previous owner sold this car, he had changed the entire clutch hydraulic and still nothing, this is one of the great advantages of this forum, extremely helpful in so many areas,.......I'm buying a brand new power spring pronto! Thanks to all the contributors!

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If you thought it was heavy with no spring, imagine it 10x heavier and that's what it's like with a broken spring. I'd hold in the clutch for more than 5 seconds and my leg would shake. Was also misdiagnosed as a worn clutch.

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Wow! I'm trying to understand how a broken spring would be heavier than no spring though. I was also just preparing for a total clutch overhaul, but I read up the signs of a worm clutch in the forums and the car showed none of those signs.

Wow! I'm trying to understand how a broken spring would be heavier than no spring though. The broken bits jam ! You are trying to get 'spring' out broken metal bits. Delighted tht someone used Rennlist to fix this problem.I wish all Porsche problems were so simple - a spring from MacMaster Carr !

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Right makes sense! I've been very fortunate with my project 997 that I got in a terrible state for a good price, with the absence of good mechanics around here Rennlist has been an indispensable resource center to get my car working better and better as the days go by....

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Yes, correct! Mine came out tangled in three bits, I just bought a replacement from the dealership as I couldn't get the macmaster Carr one. $100 aud IIRC.

Ok so here's my take on this power spring or no power spring thing. I've driven my 997 S for almost 5 months without the spring in there. The clutch was extremely stiff you need Thor thighs to enjoy it, it was always a let down for me and I couldn't DD it in the Lagos traffic, no way! So I bought the power spring As you can see it next to my key, it's not a huge part and I thought what difference can this make? So with the help of a second leg pushing on the clutch, I changed this To this Clutch action, as soft as my 2013 Hyundai Accents clutch! This you can DD! Out of excitement I called the chap that sold the 997 to me and he just told me he changed the clutch plate and disc, I thought it was only clutch slave and master. So basically he spent over a grand maybe almost two for a problem that cost me $120 plus shipping. What's the difference between the two of us? I combed through the forums extensively for months! I take time out to do this because if some of you fellas that put in good time with pitures to give fix instructions didn't do that, I wouldn't have had so many successes with turning my project car into a proper proper dream machine. Again, thanks to everyone for all the instructions, yet another Porsche 997 DIY victory!

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Did you remove the lower dash to remove the spring and canister?

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Yes I did

I don't mind the feel of mine, but it squeaks. Whats the fix. Can you lube it?

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I've read somewhere that you should not lube it, but some say they have but squeaks start again after a while, I noticed a few posts like that, I think one chap said it jammed and broke after he lubed it

The 996 cylinder that the spring sits in says do not lube. When I lubed mine with Boeshield Teflon spray the squeak went away.

Hello. I'm new to the forum and am now the owner of a 99 cab. (new factory clutch 2k miles ago) I've only driven it a few days, but I would like to improve the clutch pedal. Mine has a couple of problems: First it extends out too far for my taste; perhaps 3/4 to 1 inch past the level of the brake pedal. Second is that it is difficult to feel the engagement point ("numb" as is previously described in this thread). I would like to remove the spring as you all have described. I would like to adjust the pedal stop (if there is one), but I don't know if there is a method to check the clutch bearing freeplay (to insure that the clutch bearing is not riding continuously on the PP. Also, I was reading about the "zip-tie" mod which effects the throttle map after clutch release. Does anyone here have experience/recommendations that they could share on a "total pedal fix" for me? Thank you.

Do you know that your clutch pedal sticks out as opposed to you brake pedal being in? Brake pedal being in could be a sign of a brake issue. Spring completely gone leads to a pretty stiff clutch. I tried it for almost a month. The in between spring suits me better. When I was under the dash I didn't see an adjuster but I wasn't looking for one either.

I did just look under the dash and I didn't see any pedal stop. While I don't know any potential problems with the brake pedal, what I can tell you is that, with my heel on the dead pedal, I have to lift my leg to depress the clutch... rather than shuffel/twist the heel to engage the clutch, I have to lift the foot to get at the clutch. It is awkward enough that I'd like to change this asap.

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I've spent a fair bit of time under there and read all the technical material, there is no adjustment that can be made. It's just the way its designed. If its difficult to push in then there it could be one of two things (or both) - Worn clutch spring - Worn clutch If you don't like the feel of the clutch replace it with the one listed in this thread. Without it the clutch pedal has movement from side to side and your cruise control may or may not work

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The dead pedal is positioned so that both of your feet are at approximately the same distance with your foot on the gas What were you driving before?

Yes Dan, it doesn't look like the pedal height is adjustable; unless the push-rod clevis is threaded... which it doesn't seem to be. Jay, I find that I have to lift my foot from the dead pedal to get to to clutch pedal; rather than just pivot the heel. I've only driven it for a couple of days, so I guess I'll just have to get used to it. thx all!

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Yes, you would have to lift your foot from the dead pedal as it is lower than the clutch pedal

Yes Jay. I just found the telescoping steering wheel, which allowed me to move the seat back a notch. It's quite a bit more comfortable to depress the clutch now as I don't have to flex my hip as much to reach the pedal. ...perhaps I can stave off that hip replacement a few more years! Past cars have mostly been American/Japanese coupes and sedans. I think that this little car may just take a little getting used to. https://www.facebook.com/craig.b.johnson1/videos/1287968436050/

Just weighing in on this thread so anyone searching can see my symptoms. Downshifting from 6th to 5th, the clutch pedal didn't come back all the way up. I could 'reset' it with my toe and the gears shifted fine, so I was hoping it was something small. Found this thread and removed the spring. Clutch pedal now travels all the way up again! Success. Like the early adopters of this, after the first couple of shifts I was ordering a new spring in my head. But I can tell much better when the clutch is biting, leading to more confident shifts if that makes sense. On the fence whether I will replace at this point, but glad I found I don't need a new cylinder. I wonder how many guys get new clutch cylinders, not knowing about this little part? Thanks again.

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Ok so right after the spring change I changed the pressure plate, disc and other bits in the clutch as I started having mega slippage which was evident before the spring. After clutch overhaul (I know I need a new fly wheel I saw it) my clutch pedal stopped going all the way up. I changed the cylinder and it improved but not all the way once in a while it gets stuck, not very happy with the way it all feels right now, but glad I have no slippage and I can drive hard without mercy. So I can actually feel the helper spring now and I hate it, but I really don't want to go back to having to build up leg muscles like Thor, so I'm leaving it as as is and enjoying it and I will flog it real good because the next time I drop that gear box I'm changing everything!

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Nice to know. I have a squeak coming from the clutch pedal assembly under the dash and it is on my list to investigate. I assumed it was a pivot point that needed lubrication. I notice the squeak every once in a while.

I ordered the part from Pelican and am planning on having my indy install it, if that's something they'll do. Tight confines in there, and after the panic of getting the bolt stuck (before I eventually got it out) such that the car was not driveable, I just don't feel like messing with it. Unless someone tells me getting it back in is a lot easier. I appreciate the better clutch pedal feel, but the pressure to keep the car in gear (at a light, for example) is just too much. Plus, my wife will eventually want to drive it and I don't think she could in its current state. I wonder if Porsche allows some degree of latitude in clutch pressure because they know the clutch helper spring will smooth it out. In other words, some of our cars will be easier to drive without this spring than others. Just a thought.

I did the mcmaster spring mod and I love it. Yes the clutch is harder but it's a great trade off to feel the friction point for a stick shift. I drive in norcal traffic and I can bear it.

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You keep the clutch in at a light?

So I did this mod today. If youre like me...(recently bought the car, hate looking like an idiot who can't shift, researched 996 clutch pedal and landed on this mile long thread)....I can tell you a few things. This whole process is really much easier than some people make it sound. Ill summarize below: 1) Get spring from home Depot. It's actually in the fence/gate hardware section in an orange box. Two large/two small for 4 bucks. Item number 684838. 2) You need needle nose pliers, and a decently solid flat head screwdriver. 3) As described, remove air duct by pulling window side towards passenger (compressing accordian) and then once that's sides free pull other side. Replacing the air duct was the most frustrating part until I just put the window side in first (it's an odd shape and you can only see 1 of the 4 corners). 4) Place a small nail or hook in from the top...use pliars to help drop it in. Note, I used a picture hanging kit eye screw which helped drop it in from the top....I tried with a wimpy picture nail but it bent pretty easily and I didn't like that. 5) You really just have to push the clutch in past the resistance of your nail and with a strong screw driver you can pry the gold screw loose (assuming you followed the directions above telling you to remove the clip with the pliars). It will not fall on you so don't worry. ​​​​​​6) Its just a matter of turning the spring assembly 90 degrees to get the back two pivots to come out...it's pretty intuitive to see what needs to happen to have it come out. 7). My greatest fear was the next part with all these posters saying to use a bench vice or lose an eye....nope. I tested to see if I could compress the spring by hand since you get a great grip with the two black pivot locations....easy enough to compress and just let your nail fall out and let it out slowly. Seriously, it's a 2 second thing easy enough for anyone with hand strength more than a 2 year old. 8) all the posters who talk about the long spring not fitting perfectly are technically right....but don't waste time trying to modify anything....just put it in and push everything back together and reanchor with your nail. Now take the needle nose pliers and tug on the spring a little to get it to seat nice on the end you can still see. 9) Reinstalling the new spring was easy...just twist it back up there and seat the pivot points. Then press the clutch all the way in with one hand and use the screwdriver to position the gold screw and slowly let the clutch out and it will all click into place. Use needle nose to put the clip in. If you didn't catch the most important part...stop trying to reinvent the wheel and just use your hand on the clutch....no crazy dowels or brooms needed....it's not that heavy and you only are pushing it down for a few seconds. So that's my not so concise advice. I read all 36 pages...decided the HD spring had the best pros/cons breakdown and jumped in. I just wanted to make sure that anyone who was just in my position fully understands it's a pretty easy job and that most people were making a big deal of nothing.

Thanks nychase for the simple writeup and everybody else who's added tribal knowledge for this fix. That's one of the most awkward and uncomfortable positions of all time to conform yourself to fit down there and be able to look up at the assembly. Whoever was able to do this in 10 minutes...I'm impressed.

Did this today, very happy with the result! Great job to everyone adding their spin on the procedure, really helped me understand what to expect when I got contorted into place!

Wow, this thread is still going after 10 years! Looks like it's still somewhat controversial as it was when I started it. To be honest, I never noticed the clutch at all hard to depress without the spring. My answer here is, hit the gym and work on leg presses, you must be a real softie, lol. Muscle cars and trucks in the '60's and '70's had clutches that could be hard to depress, same with commercial heavy equipment. I still stand by my original thoughts that this mod makes the car 100X better to drive and eliminates that "no feel" zone the the booster spring creates. To those that prefer the spring, that's OK. Porsche would have not put it in there if no one felt the need. Too stiff a clutch pedal would definitely be a reason to not buy the car. A nebulous pressure point and light clutch feel would be seen as being correctable with experience. Too bad it was not for me, so I sought a solution that worked for me and this thread resulted.

I did the helper spring delete and am pretty happy with the results. Definitely a more natural clutch feel. However - I may like to experiment with the softer spring some here tried. Any chance anyone still has one of the extras that came due to the minimum purchase of six? Cheers

I don't know how I found this thread, but I'm glad I did. I'm a new 996 owner (~2 weeks) and haven't liked the clutch feel since the test drive. I didn't like the squeak either. This past weekend I replaced the factory spring with the Home Depot version and I agree with most people that clutch engagement/feel is dramatically improved. Yes, the clutch is heavier than it was, but I can now feel the engagement point. As a bonus, the squeak is gone. For me, very much worth it. And here is my contribution to the thread, a picture of how I easily removed the factory spring from the canister: A length of 2x4, two small pieces of 2x4 to stand the canister on, and a small stack to place one end of the lever on. I put my foot where the label says (upper right corner of pic) to stabilize the lever, one hand on the end of lever (out of pic) to press down with, which left the other hand free to remove the pin/nail from the center shaft. This picture was taken moments after releasing the spring. No fear of flying springs or injuries with this setup and the spring was out in moments. Simple and easy. Oh, and a tip of the hat to those that got the canister out of the clutch mechanism in 10-15 minutes. I could do it that quickly now that I've done it once, but definitely not the first time.

That's not very safe looking... When I wanted the spring out of mine because it was broken but still under tension I put it in a vise, released the cotter pin and slowly unwound the vice. Much safer

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Guys, you can easily release the spring by hand. It's a 90lb spring. It's easy to grip using both hands....and then of course the new spring is much easier. If you've ever used a "hard" grip stregnth trainer odds are it was 100lb...and that's just one hand.

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Well, I read that others had used a vice, but my vice wouldn't open far enough to accommodate. And like nychase points out above, you can actually compress the spring by hand. However, for me to compress it by hand--with control--took two hands, leaving me with no way to remove the pin. Therefore my solution seen in the picture. It was extremely safe. The lever is long enough to only require a fraction of the weight necessary to compress the spring, allowing a very easy release of the tension. Paraphrasing Atlas "give me a long enough lever and I can move the world."

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Sorry, I keep forgetting to mention that I too used two hands and let the pin fall out with gravity. Once you compress the spring a bit all the pressure on the pin releases and it will just fall out.

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Absolutely brilliant! I wish I'd thought of that. That would have been much simpler than my simple solution.

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how did you repair my gold hex bolt is out as far as I could get it but now I ca no longer depress the pedal to get it out or back in at this point. whoever does this mod make sure you don�t pull the pin unless the pedal is all the way to the floor!!

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Been while since i've done this so I might be wrong but with the pedal depressed the spring is under the most amount of stretch and tension with the pedal depressed. It is not a good idea to pull the pin with the pedal depressed. Not sure whats gone wrong in your scenario but I got the pin out very easily without the pedal depressed.

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Thank you nychase (and everyone who posted), using this instruction I am able to change the spring on my 2004 40th anniversary edition. Just want to share a few things from my experience in Canada: 1. The HD spring is not available here Misumi USA has a similar spring but shipping kills ($27USD to ship). I ended up buying a brand new assembly from Porsche dealer ($104CAD including HST). Brafasco seems to have springs (INDUS0615290) that could work but without detailed spec (k constant and picture) I rather not risk it. 2. for the assembly to go back in, the hex bolt side needs to point downward. Need lots of patience; getting the pivot points to go into the gold bracket and sit is the hardest part for me. I did the install in 15 minutes. 3. I did get a Check Engine Light while I was driving without the spring. It may not be related as the I am getting Misfired code, but one of the codes is Clutch Pedal Encoder. So I think it is better to have spring installed.

OK. I didn't want to cast necromancy on this thread but after hours of lying upside down, swearing, and my head getting slapped by pedals, I'm calling for help. The damn bolt won't come out! I have the clutch pedal pressed all the way to the floor but the bolt still doesn't clear the bracket. Is there some kind of sorcery that'll allow the bolt to move out of the assembly? I have a pin at the end of the spring, the clip removed, clutch down, and bolt half way out.

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Did you rotate so the hex bolt is facing down?

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How do you rotate that part of the assembly? the bolt goes through the black clutch pedal arm and holds it at a horizontal position. The video shows the clutch spring movement, could you explain how to rotate and shimmy that bolt out? You Tube

OK I can't believe it took me this long to realize that you don't need to remove the entire bolt in order to swing the whole spring assembly down. As long as the hex portion clears it's head, that portion of the spring can be pulled out. With the clutch pedal depressed, there is an opening kind of like a C. I thought it was completely isolated within the black bracket. Go figure. Pedal modulation is muuuuuch smoother. Not sure if my spring is damaged or just old, but there's no more sticky pedal feel. I didn't notice it being any heavier than with the spring on so maybe it was damaged.

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Glad you figured it out. I went out last night to check mine in an attempt to help you and wound up pinching a muscle and then cramped up. At 6'1" with wide shoulders I'm going to pull my seat next time before trying to get under there! I think I have a broken spring but everything is still functioning.

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Lol definitely do your stretches before getting in there. Once I figured it out it took less than a minute start to finish

Also, if you have aluminum pedals, put a sock or two over them!

My CC was not working although the light would illuminate on the dash. I saw that the clutch pedal was not returning far enough to engage the switch. I bought the Home Depot (SKU 684838) spring that I saw suggested in another post to have on hand while I investigated. I removed the cylinder and noticed the much beefier stock spring had broke in half. I replaced it with the new spring and the pedal returns to activate the switch now so assume the CC will work now.

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Yeah, I've got the squeak. It's annoying and now I know how to correct it. I also had the Clutch Delay Valve on my 2007 MCoupe! That was a bad piece of engineering.

Bumping this thread. Just found about about this and removed the spring from my turbo. 10x better. Everyone should know about this

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Same! I wonder though if the upper pivot point will be affected/wear prematurely because it's the only support now and has more side to side play...

I just replaced mine. (It had been broken since I bought the car) I'm going to have to get used to the lighter clutch, especially before I hit stop and go traffic. I like the clutch feel with the helper spring. It's going to be much better for my aging knee. No more thoughts about a tiptronic swap.

So I realize this is probably blasphemy, but I'm thinking about adding the spring back into my car as it's a GT3 and I also am plagued with a slight knee issue. I'm trying to use my glute to push the clutch more these days, but I'm thinking this would be helpful as well. Anyone have a spare assembly they don't want that they'd like to sell me? edit: nevermind.. these are cheap, I'm just going to buy a new one. I see PN 996-423-081-18-OEM. Is this the same for all 996, or does the Turbo have a different PN?

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why not order the GT3 part? If you order the Turbo you�ll be in the same boat/pedal effort as before

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My understanding is that neither of the 996 GT cars had the spring present. I should actually look under there

The Turbo uses a different much softer clutch power spring - don't use the Turbo clutch power spring ! It's designed for the power-assisted clutch on the Turbo. The GT3, GT2, normally aspirated M96 powered cars, and even the Boxster use the same clutch power spring and that's the one you want. Yes the 996-423-081-18 is the current part#. BTW, pelican is selling these at higher than dealer cost....

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Ahh, ok, thank you for the clarification! Much appreciated

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Agree with this...use 2 hands and you'll be fine

Update on my end...I have a 997 Turbo which has a hydraulic assisted clutch so may not really apply to all I removed my spring in the fall and only drove it around the block. I liked the slightly extra pedal effort and still do. However, after taking it out of storage a couple of days ago and putting about 150 miles, I simply can't get the hang of the clutch. I've stalled the car more in one day than I have in the 8 years I've owned it. I may reinstall the helper spring and see if I go back to not stalling it...I actually worry now when I'm stopped and need to start moving again which i something that was not an issue before and takes enjoyment away from the car. Maybe I just need to get used to it?? Sucks because I really do like the extra pedal force required vs with the helper spring. I would estimate 20-30% more force required so really not that much.

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Arthritis keeps me from doing it by hand. I'm going the other direction, and I'm still trying to get used to it. Give it some more miles. I prefer the non-spring feel, but my knee doesn't....that's why I bought a new spring for mine.

Two words "Marcel Spring" !!! Those of you looking for more control of the clutch engagement need to learn about the Marcel Spring, if your clutch disk is old, the Marcel Spring is probably not functioning as designed, and the engagement is more ON/OFF than you would like, the Marcel Spring increases the ON/OFF pedal travel distance to make clutch engagement a lot easier to control to prevent stalling. The Marcel Spring is a spring steel wave washer between the two friction plates of the clutch disk. The Marcel Spring does NOT effect the effort/pressure needed to press the clutch pedal. Race Clutches or Street/Strip clutches do not contain a Marcel Spring and are much more" ON/OFF switch like"..(ie easy to stall). The Marcel Spring makes the clutch engagement very cushy and predictable, without it (or it's flattened/weakened) the engagement is course and unpredictable. So if you are having "stalling issues" you may just need a new disk with a fresh "Marcel Spring"..it doesn't matter if you have the "helper spring" or not, the "helper spring" just effects pedal pressure and does nothing for the "actual engagement distance"...

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How about a G28 double disc transmission in a 928? Marcels and springs all over the place!

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Yep, double disk= double everything, even double-trouble..

Well I put the spring back in and haven�t stalled once or even come close so no idea what�s going on. All I can say is that I prefer the heavier pedal feel without the spring but I�ll take a light pedal and no stalling any day... can�t believe how light the pedal is once you get used to it without. I thought I put my foot through the floor

I have a 996 Turbo with the hydraulically assisted clutch and I have stalled that car more times in the last 4-5 years driving than all my other manual trans cars in over half a million miles! I finally changed out the hydraulically assisted clutch for the "GT2" non assisted setup - which is MUCH stiffer - and haven't had stalling problems since.

Has anyone solved the 996.1 CC issue without reinstalling the spring assembly? I didn't know this was even a thing when I bought my 2000 C2, but I came to find out spring assembly was removed by a previous owner but I have the intermitted cruise control issues. found that putting my foot under the clutch pedal solves the CC issue, so I really want to get that fixed. I don't feel like the pedal pressure is too bad, but it's the only 996 I've driven so I thought it was just a standard stiff sportscar clutch. It's much, much easier than my old cable operated race clutch in my VW bug when I was a teenager (now THAT was a stiff clutch). I'm wondering if I should buy a new OEM (or cheaper aftermarket) assembly and replace the spring with a lighter one, or somehow shim the clutch release switch so the CC doesn't think I'm pressing the clutch when I hit a little bump.

You might buy one and cut out some of the coil. My broken spring allowed my CC to work. I tested my CC, but I never really used it, so if it is an intermittent issue, then a cut spring might not work.

Hello everyone, I'm trying this mod for the first time and struggling. The nail goes through the hole at the end of the canister in the purple circle, correct? I removed a clip at the end of the gold pin, but the pin is not budging and I'm not sure which way it should budge to begin with. Do I slide the pin laterally to the passenger side of the car? There doesn't seem to be any clearance to get it out. This seems to be the only way out as there is a hex head on that side of the pin. Or, do I slide it towards the driver's door , on the side where the clip was? Or am I totally misunderstanding the point, and it pops out of the hinge down to the floor? Just to confirm, I need to be pushing down the pedal with the nail in it before I slide out the pin, correct? Thanks for your help!

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You are looking good, I just did it on mine and you don't actually need to pull the hex pin out, I am not sure if mine is different but once I had the nail in back I just pushed down on clutch to about half of travel and the spring simply slipped out from its pivot point towards the front of the vehicle when the hex pin dropped out of the teeth on the pedal it rests in. Mine is on a 2001 c2 for reference and looked identical to yours. For what it's worth I though this mod was gimmicky and reinstalled after a 10 minute spin, way less modulation over clutch travel and easier to stall for me. It's not the strength required that is problematic more so the linearity of the stroke that is much worse in my opinion. So your mileage may vary. In addition my cruise control no longer actuated without very slightly lifting up clutch pedal with toes about 5mm. I felt the modulation around the engagement zone was much harder to dose linearly and became either on/off, leading to juddering and nearly stalling. I suppose this mod could be good if you are 100% tracking and want super hard clutch drop in between shifts, but honestly even then I just thought this was distracting. I have had a track car with an unsprung race clutch and that wasn't hard for me.

I�ll take someone�s stock spring if they�re willing to part with it. Or I�ll trade my swapped spring for someone�s stock spring. PM me if interested.

Zeitgeist- What werk-1 says. The way I popped my helper spring off was to cut an ‘x’ in a tennis ball, shove the ball on the end of a broom stick, put the blunt stick end on the clutch pedal/ball end on driver seat back and run the seat back forward with electric switch until clutch was half pressed or a little more. That way I could be doing underdash yoga and still manipulate the clutch pedal with one hand and helper spring with the other.

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Great, thank you! The reason I'm doing the mod is because I'm now struggling quite a bit to find the engagement point on my clutch and it's frankly embarrassing, I've never had this problem with any other car and am like a grandma off the line. I'm in a 2001 C4 - previous owner had the clutch replaced at 32k, I bought the car at 42k and am now at 62k. When I bought the car the engagement point was closer to the floor and I had no problem with clutch action, but it seems to have worn "up" to higher in the pedal stroke and I can't seem to find it easily and naturally anymore. I'm 6'1 and it feels like someone shorter might have more luck, I really have to pull my leg far back to get to the point and have a hard time "feeling it." I'm not necessarily seeking a heavier clutch, previous cars were either Miatas (lighter feel) or WRXes (heavier feel), and I like the level of resistance in the Porsche - it's just impossible to tell where the engagement point is these days. I'm also borrowing a friends 202k mile E46 with an ancient clutch right now and it's a breeze to operate, so that gives me some hope that I'm not a complete idiot. Is it easy to reinstall once the spring is out, or do you have to apply a lot of pressure to put the genie back in the bottle? Are aftermarket springs a better way to go? (Sorry I'm late to the party on this, I'm tryin to suss out what information I can from the older posts in the thread).

Did this today. Can finally tell where the clutch starts engaging. Much, much better. I think it's still one of the worst clutches I''ve dealt with in the many manual cars I've driven over the years, but at least I don't stall it all the time. Next is the shift right kit and maybe this thing will actually shift like a performance car

I am so glad I am not crazy... Again, life long manual driver, had a Cayman S (987.1) so had a Porsche experience already, and this clutch/feel is so vague to me. Starting from a stop in first has led to some pretty pants-soiling experiences between awful DMV traffic, and frustration of thinking that I don't know what I am doing. The bite point just feels vague, and I feel like I have to dump the throttle to get anything remotely smooth off a stop. Having some major work done on the car in the next week (suspension, spark plugs, ignition coils, fluids) and going to ask my mechanic about removing this spring since the car will already be in a state of disassembly. This combined with a full suspension refresh, new engine bits, and some much needed body work (courtesy of a construction hauler ejecting a metal foot plate), will hopefully make the care feel factory fresh with some more precision in several areas.

@DDR MFS Do as you please, I will caution against this. I bought my 04 C4s with the helper spring removed (wasn't aware of this when I purchased). I had my indie put the helper spring back in. It is about 90% easier to compress the clutch with the helper spring and that is not an exaggeration. I sure wouldn't want any traffic to drive in with it removed. Also, my 2nd gear synchro is going bad and I'll probably need a tranny rebuild. Without the helper spring in, I'd imagine you are naturally going to have a lot more wear on the synchro(s) thanks to the driver engaging the clutch faster/decreasing the ability to control clutch engagement with all the weight of the clutch without the helper spring.

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I second this, I'm on my second 911, I have an 06 C2 now that came with the helper spring untouched, my previous car was an 07 C2S with a nightmarishly hard clutch pedal. I didn't notice this till I started dailying the car in stop and go traffic it was painful. After some research I read about people removing this for better clutch action and I looked under there and yep! No helper spring, so I bought one and installed it, the difference was night and day. People that track their cars find this extremely helpful, but if you daily your car, it will be extremely painful, except you have legs like Thor.

I daily drive mine in traffic and still would never put that damn spring back in. It is awful and makes the clutch so vague. If you control the clutch properly with your leg you aren't going to be letting it out any faster unless you wanted to and shouldn't be causing any extra wear on the synchros or any other part of the gearbox. Removing that spring honestly has made the car so much more enjoyable to drive. Also, I don't know if the later cars are different, but on my '99 the clutch pedal is still much lighter than most classic muscle cars. IMO this is the single greatest value mod for a 996.

Throwing this out there as removing this spring is advised against on BMW forums. This spring is what helps the clutch return to position...without the spring, you are now relying on the master cylinder and hydraulic pressure for the clutch pedal to return, and over time the pedal will not fully return to stock, putting pressure on the seals in the hydraulic system. I am not an expert, but would advise some research before doing this

My spring was already removed when I bought the car so I thought the clutch was supposed to be like that. One mechanic thought it might need a new clutch because it felt hard to push . I've never driven another 996 so I had not frame of reference. My only complaint is that it makes cruise control not function correctly because there's no spring to push back on the switch, and the clutch pedal rattles sometimes, which was really annoying until I figured it out (thought it was the front window or dash rattling). I can get the CC to work and the rattle to stop by placing my foot under the clutch pedal but that's uncomfortable. I think I might install one with a lighter spring. The pedal feel is heavy but I've never felt like it was too much

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It would be interesting to see if the issues you mentioned are associated with different years or shape of the clutch hydraulics or what the difference is, because it seems very split between people with issues and people without. I personally have zero issues on my 3/98 build that had the 993 style spring. The clutch pedal returns to the normal height, never rattles, and my CC works just fine.

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It would be interesting to see if the issues you mentioned are associated with different years or shape of the clutch hydraulics or what the difference is, because it seems very split between people with issues and people without. I personally have zero issues on my 3/98 build that had the 993 style spring. The clutch pedal returns to the normal height, never rattles, and my CC works just fine.

I also had the stock spring in for a long time and didn’t think the clutch release point was easy to find/anticipate either, so I pulled out the spring and ran that way for two years. My wife wasn’t as found of the heavier clutch as I was, so I when I happened upon a thread that mentioned using the turbo’s spring, I put that in not too long ago. I personally like the Turbo spring as a happy medium.

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When I acquired my car without the spring, my CC did not work unless I put my foot behind the clutch and pulled it toward me while setting the cruise. Unfortunately I didn't make that discovery until after my 12 hour drive home from picking up the car. SOmeone else posting above indicated they had to do the same thing in order to get the CC to work.

I guess RE: finding the clutch engagement point -- that seems to be why anyone who has removed the spring and likes it wants to remove it... Does it really make any difference whether the spring is in or not on how easy it is to find the point of engagement? after driving any manual car regularly for a week, I'd think you would know where the clutch engages without even consciously thinking about it. If you really had to 'learn' where it is, go to a parking lot and let out the clutch as slow as you can with no gas and see when the car starts rolling... the clutch engagement point isn't going to change over time so once you know where it is, why would there be any confusion? just my .02...

To my surprise the helper spring fell off on the track at Road America around 12 years ago. Didn't know what was rolling around at my feet and then exited. My indy who was at the track told me what it was and that I really didn't need it. So I didn't replace it for 5 year + time period until my kids started learning how to drive a stick. They had a tough time with the "either in or out" heavy aspect of the clutch. I loved it without the spring. Never gave it a second thought until my kids were wrestling with it and I had a new one installed. Probably will take it off next season due to many of the reasons the guys are suggesting which is a better feel. But sure, if you aren't used to a heavier clutch and you do alot of stop and go driving, it may not be something you will like. But you can always put it back on. As a side note, I had no idea that CC didn't work when it was out. Never really use CC.

I may be an odd ball but when I removed it on my 2009 Turbo I just really didn�t like it. The heavy ness was fine but I�ve never stalled the car more. I was nervous everything I had to take off from a stop. So I put it back in and I�m happy although I would the the clutch stiffness

Any one here take the spring out and replace it with an OEM spring (or similar) and get better results? Just wondering as iterative processes can also have their benefits. I saw the turbo spring suggestion as well. I guess you don't know until you try it.

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Guess it depends on what you call better results. I ran mine with the spring for years until it broke and fell out. Didn't give the feel of the clutch much thought when the original spring was in the car. When it broke and fell off on the track, I immediately felt the heaviness. Wasn't a good or bad heaviness, it just took a bit more leg effort to work it. But I liked it. Their was no riding the clutch, it was either in or out. Much crisper shifting. When I put a new oem spring back in years later, I couldn't believe how easy it was to work, too easy in fact. But I couldn't tell you if there was any difference in feel between my original oem spring and the new oem spring due it it being so long ago. You can always take out the spring helper, see if you like it and if not, you can always put it back in. No cost for parts, just service costs if you aren't a wrencher. Sounds like the turbo is in between.

awesome! 40 pages of removing clutch helper. lol great Mod!!

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All in case you get bored with the �What makes the 1999 so special anyway?� thread.

This was a game changer for my car and the experience driving it is so much better. I used the mcmaster spring and find its a perfect balance. The numb bite point is gone. If people need springs i have 5 left I can mail for the cost of shipping. Lets keep this thread going for another 18 years.

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just found out my spring is broken, I�ll be sending you a message about a spring.

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PM sent, thanks!

Some Porsche Engineer spent a lot of time and effort designing that helper spring assistant system and we have 600 posts and 18 years of people removing it........

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Well, mine squeaks when it's cold out. Should I replace or simply remove the thing? Inquiring minds want to know.

Hah! Try teaching your daughter how to drive stick without the helper spring. Its a hoot.

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Dip the World in KY Jelly !!!! Solves a lot of problems....

Keeping this thread alive - I am stuck at the same place @zeitgeist and @jdcSD were. I've pried out the bolt, but not far enough to completely remove it, so now the pedal is stuck in no-man's land. The hex part of the bolt is stuck against an indented part of the gold bracket. How did you guys get it fully off? Did I not push the pedal far enough down before trying to remove the pin? Should I keep trying to work the pin out, or try and push it back in and restart?

i just did this today, omg, so much better. My factory spring as broken. i have a stack of the McMaster springs i can ship out to people.

Quotes source post: 20093343

I figured it out. For anyone else having this issue in the future, you dont need to fully remove the pin (2000 Boxster S), but you do need to have the clutch fully depressed. Since my pin was stuck and caused the pedal to be partially depressed, I removed the 10mm nut in the gold frame that was in the way and this let me fully press the clutch pedal. Once that happens, you can just pop out the part of the spring connected to clutch pedal because it's a C, not an O.

Wow! first time on the 996 forum in years, maybe decades and I came across this thread I posted 18 years ago halfway down the first page. Reading a few newish posts, some like it, some don't, that's OK.

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I'll bet you pulled that Hydro-Assist off of the clutch system your 996 Turbo and installed a Non Hydro-Assist clutch system on it also Right ??

im interested in a spring.. have a 996tta and in dire need of help.

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interested in a spring

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second best mod I�ve done since purchasing 15 mos ago. so much more natural.

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I am trying to figure this out. In the purple circle there is a clip holding/positing, does that get remove? where in this photo does the nail go?

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can you refer to the picture above, where does this nail go ? ( i see the pin/clip on the top of the spring assembly), but where does this nail go?

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The nail goes through the shaft to keep the spring compressed. There is a hole there.

In the teal? Where I drew the black line?

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were you able to get it off? I am stuck on trying to figure out where this nail goes? they say in the shaft? Thank you for posting this picture, this was the most helpful post yet, not sure why this is so car to figure out where the nail goes.

is this where the nail goes? from the schematic, there is a clip pin already inserted.

im assuming this is where the nail goes? you tube for the win You Tube

Quotes source post: 20533981

Look in the circle at the other end of the assembly. You will see the point of a nail. The shaft has a hole in it. Depress the pedal, which compresses the spring, and drop a nail through the exposed hole. A nice, strong nail...

nice video and explanation. thank you. You Tube

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THANK you. i get it now.

I fiddled around with this tonight. I did feel the bite point seemed �inconsistent� and I had a squeak, so the least I could do is pull it out, lube it, and see how it felt. I learned a few things, stay with me. With the spring removed, the first surprise was how high the bite point was. Much higher than I felt it was with the spring. Yes, I know these are unrelated physically, that�s more a reflection of the impact on feel. I could shift with the top 1/3 of the pedal action for sure� this car has grumpy synchros and the bushings are loose like a wizards sleeve so I�ve been diligently working the whole motion as it seemed to help, but with no spring there was much more clarity. The real learning about this issue and the effect of the spring was in the removal. I used a drill bit to pin the spring as I had one on hand. As the pedal travels, the hole on the back gets more open (spring compresses) before the spring extends and the hole binds the spring. This was obvious with a drill bit as I had to move the pedal a little to get the bit in, then move the pedal more to where the bit was bound by the spring or else it would fall out. What I am describing is the spring in an over center mechanism - where as the pedal travels the spring will get harder and then softer due to the relative motion of the pivot locations of the spring. The intent makes sense� a firm pedal at the top to get the clutch closed in a hurry, but a lightweight pedal at the bottom when sitting in traffic. The over center makes the stiffer part of the range longer too, but as you can feel, it�s not linear, getting stiffer then softer. This mechanism also reduces the load at the very top of the pedal for less clunk/standing force. This issue with clutch feel and the overcenter are related effects. The high bite point on my clutch is almost right where that over center happens - so where I�m trying to modulate the clutch in a smooth/slick motion, the force required to do so is rapidly changing. I�ve had the car buck when taking off, because the spring is making the short section to the friction point increasing force, then the long section disengaging is reducing force - it�s an unstable system. No wonder some are frustrated by it! That�s probably why this mod is so polarizing. If your clutch is down in the unloading range it�s a smooth change in spring assist and a range that�s easy to modulate. Then this mod is just a heavy pedal. If your clutch is at the top and there is a lot of range behind it, then the spring assist is very non-linear at the friction point and it works against you. For all the reasons in the thread (cruise control, pedal rattle), I don�t think no spring/return assist is a great plan, but the minimum viable assist is just whatever closes that cruise switch and holds the pedal upright. For less over center effect, a longer loaded spring length would make for a more linear spring rate over the travel as well. A different spring in the same pocket changes the proportional force at any part of the range, but isn�t the same as changing loaded length, which would affect the change in rate over the working length. Interesting problem to be sure. I�ll probably start by finding a soft spring to fit the existing housing. If I were to guess, the squeak is the bushing on the side of the spring reservoir, and with some grease and less load, that should also be ameliorated. Now a question: I read conflicting reports about whether a worn clutch is low or high in these cars. Some have said these are backwards to a typical clutch (would be dictated by pressure plate orientation). I haven�t had a chance to dig into it, and would appreciate some first hand experience. My car supposedly has a recent clutch (few 000 miles), and it is very high. As a YMMV based on anecdotes, I seem to see people often complain about a high clutch, replace it, find no difference, then do this mod and rave about it. A second question would be in there is some adjustment for clutch friction point. Moving it further down the pedal travel out of the overcenter zone might make this mod useless, and is likely how Porsche intended this pedal to function. As a final point, my car is a mid-99 C2 cable car. An early diagram in this thread shows the open ended spring reservoir, which I have. The replacement part has a closed end, and requires the replacement in tandem with an upgraded. �optimized pedal�. I would love to know what is different and optimized between the two.

Quotes source post: 20533448

Search "Porsche 996 Clutch pedal Spring" on eBay. It's Part # 996-423-081-19 M100 AFAIK, it's the same part across all 996/986 models

Bump with some info about clutch pedal changes: https://pca.org/tech/1999-996-clutch- Not qualitative, but I do have a purple spring in my car, so there is a good chance it has been changed. I also still have a squeak with the spring out.