5 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHTT Actuator problem
Reported or suspected cause
anything more than a sticking/worn actuator
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Reported cause
Turbo's are usually very reliable so I doubt your issue is anything more than a sticking/worn actuator, which in itself will rob your car of power.
Leading evidence: 'anything more than a sticking/worn actuator' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'anything more than a sticking/worn actuator' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust assembly' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
You may need to get the brass assembly replaced also but an Oxy gun with good heat(and great care) can sometimes free them up(for a while but they often seize again).
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Suggestion
There is a little brass nut on the adjust assembly that can often seize and locks the acuator on .
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I think my problem is the shaft to the wastegate sticking in the turbine housing.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
My advice is to get it into the indy/OPC as you wont be able to check/set the BAR opening pressure without the proper gauge(unless you have one).
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
You may need to get the brass assembly replaced also but an Oxy gun with good heat(and great care) can sometimes free them up(for a while but they often seize again).
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5 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T191851Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
If my actuator on the N/S turbo is locked in the full extended position, what will it do?, i.e too much boost or not enough. Would it also make the power delivery a little lumpy? The boost in third gear is only reading 0.6bar, totally standard car but not sure if it should be more.
Got to free off the actuator this weekend, anyone know the best method? This time i'm going to try to strip it, previous attempts with WD40 have worked for 10 seconds then its locked again. Should I put some high temp grease on it, do i need to remove bumper and exhaust?
Is bumper removal a Big job?
Thanks for any advice.
You will need to remove bumber & exhaust if you want to strip the turbo, although you can get to the actuator under the car, copper grease is a better option
Main symptoms of a stuck actuator are overboosting, lumpy idle could be a few different things, MAF coil packs etc, if its been stood for a while it might just need a spirited drive.
My advice would be to take to your local porsche specialist and get it checked out properly.
There is a little brass nut on the adjust assembly that can often seize and locks the acuator on . Don't waste time with grease etc. You may need to get the brass assembly replaced also but an Oxy gun with good heat(and great care) can sometimes free them up(for a while but they often seize again).
If your actuators have been on for more than 6 years you should also get them tested using a pressure gauge. On a std Turbo I think they should be opening at approx .8bar. If they open at < .8bar your springs are shot and/or the adjuster(just ahead of the brass assembly) needs to be worked(they are often seized too). If the adjustment does not yield 0.8bar on the meter then you are probably better off fitting two new actuator assemblies.
Both sides need to be VERY carefully adjusted to get them working in tandem. Re-mapped cars usually have spacers in the adjuster to hold the boost longer. This/all actuator adjustment/operation/arm travel on a 996TT/GT2 is CRITICAL to maintain healthy BHP.
Turbo's are usually very reliable so I doubt your issue is anything more than a sticking/worn actuator, which in itself will rob your car of power.
Any good Porsche indy can diagnose the problem in about 30 mins and usually fix any serious actuator related problem(s) in couple of hours
Thanks for the replies, i can get the actutor to move freely with WD40 but then the heat quickly dries the penetrant and it seizes again. I think my problem is the shaft to the wastegate sticking in the turbine housing.
Can this be removed and cleaned (wastegate shaft)?
....it can but it will usually seize again. Oil or grease is a complete waste of time due to the heat levels.
My advice is to get it into the indy/OPC as you wont be able to check/set the BAR opening pressure without the proper gauge(unless you have one).
It possible to change the acuators/assembly DIY but pointless if the wastegate opening pressures are all over the place afterwards.
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