Has anyone experienced a clutch pressure plate failure?

So I have not had much of a chance to post here, but I did have a question to pose to all of you. Has anyone here experienced a clutch pressure plate failure? We have been seeing these crop up from time to time in some of the racing Boxster S , and Cayman S cars. I am curious if this has shown to be a weakness in the street cars, as well. Thanks for taking the time to post here. Depending on what everyone has to say I might be able to recommend a direct replacement for this that will address this issue, if indeed there actually is an issue. Warmest Regards, Erik Johnson GBox Sales Manager [phone removed] cell

I had the pressure plate fail on my 06 Cayman S @ ~20k miles. Dealer fixed under warranty. Symptoms were significantly reduced clutch pedal pressure, unable to disengage/engage clutch. Master and slave cylinders were fine.

The new cars have been utilizing the self adjusting clutch pressure plate just like Audi and other European manufactures. If the clutch is removed or over reved it can ratchet into a position that hinders operation. regards

Press. plate failure on 07 2.7 Cayman (2100 miles), 3 weeks in and out, dealer finally said P would pay, put bad taste in my mouth about that dealer, made it easy to buy Carrera from neighboring dealer. Their service is top flight. Had an AMEX card to pay,would worry about who would pay latter.That, and purchase price, cost dealer a future sale. Penny wise...:cheers:

My clutch pressure plate cracked after 22000 miles (07 Cayman S ). Porsche dealer replaced it and rebuilt the clutch under warranty.

Pretty sure I had one fail, but the clutch friction disc was also worn. No warranty. What I noticed was not slipping, but very odd engagement. Creaky, rough, inconsistent. Nothing like a worn disc at all. Was not covered under warranty. This was at about 30,000 miles.

My 06 987.1 PP failed after 60k with 4 broken spring fingers. Disk and flywheel were fine but went with a clutch Kit anyway. 1st pressure plate failure in 50 years of driving sticks. I wonder what I'm doing to cause this?

Standard MO, Porsche 's crappy clutch set up, replaced mine @ 60k disc looked good too. Did you notice that Sach's offers a high performance pressure plate (but Not a HP disc)? I wished I had used it .... eh

Resurrecting dead thread! My 06 Cayman S had a pressure plate failure about a year and a half ago (approx. 50k miles). Symptoms were it was very difficult (borderline impossible) to put the car into any gear with the engine on and clutch depressed. The car would go into gear with the engine off. When the clutch was pulled it was easy to see that the pressure plate was cracked. The clutch disc was hardly worn at all. Mix of daily driving and maybe 12-15 track days. I replaced the clutch with a standard OEM replacement-- Sachs I think. Have not tracked the car since the clutch replacement, since I bought a Miata to replace the Cayman for track duty. Flash forward to my drive home the other night... car suddenly will not go into gear at all with the engine on. Had it towed to PRO Motorsports in Burbank, and we suspect the same pressure plate failure. This time we are replacing with an upgraded clutch and lightweight flywheel. How could this fail in less than 15k miles?? Is there anything in my driving that could be causing this, are the OEM pressure plates just no good, or did I just get unlucky? The original pressure plate lasted 50k miles, with much more aggressive driving. I have only street driven the car since the replacement, and most of the driving has been uneventful commuting at that. My typical takeoff is between idle and 1000 rpm, so I don't believe I am slipping the clutch very much. Obviously not doing clutch kicks or anything silly like that on my drive to work. The abuse is saved for the poor track Miata , which takes it like a champ..

New EPS Clutch installed about 1 month ago. Cracked clutch plate after only 97,000 miles. I think I got my life out of the original clutch.

Mine started slipping a week ago. Did you do it or have it done ? Ballpark cost ?

Up until this clutch failure, I have done all the work on my car. Too hot in So Fla for me to take this one on so I bit the bullet and paid someone else to repair. Hurts to pay but a necessary evil this go round. I am good with someone else taking care of this for a change. Parts: Clutch came to about $750 including new master and slave cylinder. New rear main seal was about $450. Paid book rate for labor (aka as overpaid) about 14.5 hrs. I likely could have done it in 14.5 hours myself (I think). Would have cost me about $350 rental at a local work on your own car garage in my area. While they were in there, I had the oil cooler seal replaced; new half shafts; got talked into a new IMS bearing upgrade (more $$ labor and parts). All in was under $6K. Clutch, cylinders, and rear main seal were about $3k of that. A lot to spend on a $20k+ car but she looks good and runs great. I will spend more finishing out suspension replacement/upgrades (again, 100k on the odo). Continues to thrill me as a daily and for the too few and far apart track days. I see more track days now that most has been replaced/updated. The EPS clutch is whisper smooth. Quick uptake and short duration to full engage. Slightly lighter than the stock. Also has a bit of an annoying dead space at the top of the throw (more typical what I have experienced on other clutch cars). Less than one inch of lightness until clutch is disengaging. I have mostly gotten used to it but miss the heavier feel of the old clutch. On the plus side, I live in Miami and drive exclusively in traffic. The lighter clutch is better as a daily driver. Good luck with yours.

Thanks for the info. 85k on my 08 and hoping to get by with complete clutch and flywheel. I could also do it but I have so many hours on another project that I need a break from wrenching.

On the subject of clutches, my service tech surprised me with a question about engine braking via downshifting. I said yes I always do a lot of that in everyday driving, and seldom hit the brakes until down to 20mph or so. He said that results in even wear on the clutch, because it works the clutch both ways. So the clutch will last longer. I'd never heard or read that b4.

I never heard that before either and sure hope it's true because I don't ever stop with out downshifting to third and often second gear, LOL.

I agree with Morde5. Not sure of the mechanics measures behind it. I will add my one data point to say at 98k mile clutch replacement, the flywheel was fine. No flywheel replacement needed. I am easy on the clutch with little downshifting for engine braking as daily driver. I do downshift at the track with moderate heal/toe skill.

No dear don't have any experience like this.