Targa 'thud' and drain tube securing

Evening all I have a huge thud from the back of the car when I hit a big bump and I have checked all suspension components and found nothing (pretty much all of it is new within 2000miles). I am now thinking it is coming from the rear hatch area. I read some hints about sticking fuel and water hose in a few areas around the hatch on am old rennlist post but can't for the life of me find it again as I discussed it last week when I couldn't tie up the descriptions without photos to my cars physical presence. I have attached a photo of the rear apart - any advice on where I can add support to the rear hatch assembly to resolve a big 'thud'. Also, whilst here, rear near side drain has come off (explains the condensation on the rear hatch every time I wash the car. Any hints on how to make sure this stays put? I was thinking to put the end in boiling water to soften the hose and hopefully let it slide on further - the hose doesn't feel particularly soft anymore! Any help appreciated!

Could you get a tie wrap around the hose once pushed back on, just to give it an extra bit of grip? In my C2 coupe I'm sure I get noise from the relay rack under the carpet parcel shelf. Ian

Thanks Ian, the hose is very stiff so I am not sure a tie wrap will be able to "crush" it enough to hold it in place - but it wont do any harm if no other suggestions! I have the relay rack out at the moment just for when I removed the carpet so when I reinstall it I will put some cushioning around the edges before I bolt it back down - good hint! Thanks!

Perhaps a metal fuel hose clip with a nut / bolt rather than a jubilee. Re relay rack I was thinking of 700c bike inner tube between the metal rack and body. I traced an engine compartment fan fault to the relay having vibrated out! Ian

I am now knocking and looking for rattles and have found this hanging down! Any clues on where it attaches to (beneath the rear hatch motor!)

To adjust the tailgate you have the rubber bungs as per image .. you wind these in or out to add pressure or release it from the tailgate . You also have the central lock which in your case looks to be out of adjustment .. the far right and left T30 screws in the slot .. one side is higher than the other . ref loose pipe .. there are actually 2 each side .. it you mean the the one going straight up then that's the hatch seal drain , it connects to a metal tube so you could get away with a jubilee clip .. you can't on the gutter drain as thats plastic . Either way i would recommend replacing it . The relay is for the rear wiper motor and locates in a slot just above where it is hanging .. a bit of a pain to refit so you could always wrap a bit of foam around it for now .. they don't tend to cause rattles though . Post with pictures and a bit of a read just in case you haven't seen it is here .. http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=116450

Thanks for the reply, I took the hatch lock off so I could get to the hex screw for the latch motor as it was loose, the 2 scratch marks were where I marked it to get it back where it was. How would you recommend I set the correct height of the latch, close the hatch, loosen the screws and move it down till the rubber seal is engaged all the way around the hatch, tighten and then adjust the rubber 'bungs'?. It is the drain hose that connects to the metal pipe so jubilee clip it is! Also, the post I found previously about my thud..... It was from 2010 but I can't make head nor tail of it! This is the text.... As to the constant thumping in the back because the panel that holds the electric lock (that pulls the rear window down) is not solid enough (it bangs around as it bounces up and down when you go over bumps), I pulled the cover panel off (the same one you pull out to get to the two hexagonal drive handles that you use to close the Targa top when the electric motor fails), and I put 1 inch long pieces of 1 inch radiator (heater) hose under each end of that electric pulldown motor frame and then another piece of the same rubber underneath the sound deadening to give its some "under support"

Slacken the 2 outer T30 screws and set the lock in the mid slot position .. atm the drivers side is too low . There should be a bakelite damping pad behind the lock screws on these , i can't see from the image if you have these or not .. the bottom rod with the 8mm nut on it should have rubber backing on the far end .. basically if it doesn't move in and out then it should be ok . The rubber bungs each side .. wind them clockwise so that they lower .. wd40 on them helps makes this easier. Close the tailgate .. climb inside and look at the gaps between the rubber bungs and the tailgate .. you need to wind them up evenly so that they push against the tailgate .. these are primarily used as the part that pushes the tailgate open and stops it either not opening or shutting just at the point you have your fingers under the tailgate to open it .. After more rebuilds on these than i care to remember then opening the tailgate with my fingers under it still scares me .. its been painful more than once i can tell you !!! anyways you want a fair bit of tension on these so it's a bit of trial and error to get the tailgate to pop open and not reclose . This will aid in holding the tailgate rigid . i suspect the post you mentioned was because the damping plates were missing . Dam shame your not near Brighton as i would happily do it for you .. sigh . Your roof cable tubes seem to be silver in colour .. that means they have been replaced in the past as the original ones are gold .. there is a sticker to the o/s/r which will give you the date of the cables ... it's in your image . EDIT .. Stupid point to make but the 2 allen keys in the rear panel you have removed should have a central clip to hold them together .. its only purpose is to stop noises .. if missing then you will get rattles which you won't if road testing with that panel or tools not fitted . hex bolts are what holds the guide tubes and motors in place .. other than checking they are tight then dont touch them and don't remove them .

With your guidance over the last year on this roof, I also wish I was closer to pay you a visit!!!! Thanks for the help, the roof has been out in the past and was sold at one point due to the roof not working. I am just trying to reduce a few rattles! And dry it out after the drain line popped off but it basically works fine!

You have probably already seen it but the second page and close to the bottom on my targa post shows the normal fixes for creeks etc .. http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=116450&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20 The hatch making a noise is a bit of a new one on me though .. hence getting the lock and rubber bungs set correctly is the first thing to try ... If still no good we move onto sound clips and probably more pictures until we can find the fault Never give up .. Never surrender lol .

oh definitely never surrender! I have leveled and adjusted the latch so that when the roof closes, the "frame" the latch is mounted to does flex. I then adjusted the rubber stops - one is ripped but not all the way through - but cant find a part number to replace in the PET so will have to head to OPC at some point. I then drove it to work and to be honest it didnt clunk or sound rattly at the rear. Tonight, I have put some 10mm diameter rubber hose as per the red lines in the drawing (photo is before I had done any adjustments) and have put it all back together and will take it to work tomorrow and see how it is! giving it all a knock with my fist, it does seem to be less rattly. Of interest - the rear panel you pull off, mine doesnt have the hex drivers to manually close the roof (they are officially awol!) - it has a 5mm thick foam pad glued to it. I bought a pair of hex drivers to put in the frunk so I can always close the roof if needed so hopefully no rattles from that!

oh and I had thought I had read every post on noises for these things but hadnt see the one you linked, I think I have done everything mentioned already but I will go over it all again! Many thanks for helping us all with the roofs!