996 C2 Cabrio Tip - Suspension refresh - Std to M030?

Hi all, I have a UK 2001 996 C2 Cabriolet Tiptronic with getting on for 90k miles on it, so a suspension refresh has been on my mind for a while and I'm thinking I'd like a slightly lower and firmer ride, so the M030 sports suspension kit looks appealing. Can anyone tell me if there is any difference between these individual dampers and springs and the ones in the official Techiqument M030 upgrade package? The upgrade package has the front and rear anti-roll bars with bushes, but it seems to be twice the price as buying the parts individually? M030 package: https://www.design911.com/Original-...on-Kit-Porsche-996-CABRIO-C2-AUTO/prod133223/ 996 C2 M030 Front and Rear dampers: https://www.design911.com/Bilstein-...rbers-PACKAGE-Porsche-996-C2-M030/prod130913/ 996 C2 M030 Front springs: https://www.design911.com/Coil-springs-FRONT-PAIR-Porsche-996-C2---C4---C4S---2001/prod141780/ 996 C2 M030 Front springs (US/Can models): https://www.design911.com/Coil-springs-REAR-PAIR-Porsche-996-Carrera-M030-Cabrio---Targa/prod142467/ I guess ultimately my question is, should I buy the dampers/springs individually and look out for a deal on the front and rear sway bar, rather than coughing up £1,700 for the full M030 kit? I'm thinking I can use the saving to put new top mounts and bushes on, etc.

Why do you want to stiffen up a Cabriolet with a tip box? What's your goal? I only ask because I think the standard suspension is better on British roads and making a Cabriolet into a track car is a lost cause. If that makes sense? I mean by all means go ahead and do it, but It seems an odd choice to me for a Cabriolet given their nature. They're supposed to be the pretty, open top cruisers that are super fun in summer, they're a bit soft torsionally to warrant M030 in my opinion and they weigh too much to be a track rat. But this is all just my opinion, and really it doesn't matter what I think at the end of the day it's your car of course. I guess what I'm trying to say is, why make a Cabriolet a teeth shaker? Because M030 is pretty brutal on certain surfaces compared to standard and the only place I've seen any real advantage to M030 is on circuit where its significantly better in my opinion than standard.

That's a fair question. :thumb: The 996 is very much a high days and holidays car that I drive purely for fun. I have another car that is very practical and comfortable for all other purposes. I also come from a background of my only car being a heavily track prepared bone shaker of an Evo 8, that I routinely pushed beyond it's very capable limits on a regular basis. That car had zero body roll, even when being thrown around at speed. The 996 feels very soft in comparison, with noticeable body roll, so the M030 kit seemed like a natural upgrade.

Hi, I have M030 on my Cab along with so many other mods including my Super Charger, semi solid engine mounts etc. Yes, it looks pretty in summer but it has substance behind it too. I find the car drives well and not over bumpy at all. My aim was to make the car the best it can be, I don't track it. If you can, have a ride in a car with M030 and go from there to see if it's for you. Regards Vinny

Funnily enough the M030 equipped car was thought surprisingly compliant compared to other modded cars in the 911&Porsche World suspension test (essential reading) The USA/Can spec may not have the 10mm drop.

Some contradictory reviews then?! Anyone tried the M030 dampers with the H&R lowering springs? HR Springs seem to be softer than the M030 ones, but you get the lowered benefit plus firmer rebound from the M030 dampers?

Why not just try fitting the H&R springs with your existing dampers which are probably still OK at 90k, that way it will cost you £200-300 (if you do the work yourself) and you'll get a lower stiffer ride. Note that M030 may not drop your suspension at all as the original springs have probably dropped 10mm over time, at least that was the case with my C2.

Ohlins R/T and drop it 30mm to X74 height.

Thanks for the suggestion, I can't see that firming up the ride much though?

But not with the standard R&T springs, you need 40/90Nm or softer.

I would imagine that the H&R springs would be stiffer than standard, not sure if they are progressively wound though? Therefore the ride should also be firmer, but not so much to overwhelm the standard dampers if there are still in good condition (OEM dampers still tend to be at 90k according to comments I've read from folks who have had their shocks tested at Center Gravity).

Interesting, thanks for the advice. :thumb: Is it possible to check the state of your dampers without taking them off the car?