How Much Brake Fluid

I've been getting the tools together for my first brake fluid change as looking on the service notes it's been two years since it was last done. I've got a Seeley Power Bleeder together with a flare nut wrench and all I need now is some Brake fluid.....but how much and which type should I buy? Looking it seems Dot 4 either comes in 1L or 5L cans so what size is required for a complete change? Thanks as always for your advice David

Any Dot 4 fluid is fine .. we use Mobil at work . You want about 1.5 ltrs . Start at the n/s/r and take out 0.5 of a litre then o/s/r and 0.25 .. o/s/f and 0.25 and finally n/s/f and 0.25. If you drain out the brake reservoir first you can do 0.25 per corner but as this is just about impossible due to the strainer then above is how i do it . 0.5 on the n/s/r gets the reservoir drained and the lines cleared .. i've proved it when changing racing blue to standard .. that was the amount i got out before it ran clear . Bleed nipples .. hard to explain but they do seize .. basically you are fine if just one per caliper comes undone .. don't force them to get them undone .. i use the palm of my hand to hit the spanner .. if it seems too tight then i try the other nipple .. go mad with too much force and it can snap ... i'm afraid this part is experience as to whether it will come loose or not so i can't say much to help.

The nipples are fragile and stick, use a T bar on the nipples so you don't apply a bending load, it will help avoid snapping them. Also, my usual comment, fit stainless nipples to avoid future problems. Lots of threads here.

I normally give mine a little bleed every year, it doesn't need it but mostly to stop the bleed valves from seizing (already had it happen once, don't want to go through that again). Im overdue actually, good reminder As above, 2l should be fine

Assuming they undo, is it worth swapping the nipples for stainless steel ones while you are at it?

That's a good tip, thanks for that. I always make sure I use a 6 sided deep socket to crack the nipple (sounds painful) then nip it up again so I can use a spanner on it while bleeding.

Thanks as always guys that's just the information I needed.

I would tend to advise against stainless steel ones .. we used to fit them for a short while but they sheared off worse than standard ones .. I can't say if it was the type we bought or if there is a problem but i do know stainless steel bolts if not fitted with ally grease won't come undone .. Exhaust flange studs .. i've done these up then had to remove them .. they don't come undone basically .. new bolts and i had to cut them off .. that's because i didn't use grease . I'm not keen on using grease on bleed nipples .. hence my thoughts .

^^^ Yep as Demort says, I'd stick with genuine Brembo replacements. I had no end of bother with aftermarket Titanium then Stainless ones. They were done up F/T yet fluid kept weeping from the threads. The profile of the nose was completely different to the genuine ones. Brake fluid capacity on 996s is 2.7 litres but as long as you get the bulk changed any old stuff will be got next time. After all we should be changing the fluid every 2 years. :thumb:

I ordered two litres from Eurocarparts as they have 35% off Winter Sale at the moment, and it didn't work for my little order a 50% off Brakes deal as well for anyone interested. Hopefully my nipples will undo and my bottom won't fall off !!!

I heated the nipples up with a kitchen micro blowtorch before removal. Put a decent ring spanner on and gave each a single tap with a light hammer. They all came out. Used Titanium nipples, no leaks

When undoing bleed nipples for the first time, I'll clean them up with a wire brush and pop a bit of release fluid on them and down the hole. Then a few taps with a hammer on the top (straight down the thread, not sideways, and careful not to damage them) to try to shock free any seizure before undoing them. I'm not sure whether this works or is a placebo, but a snug fitting six sided spanner or socket, a bit of tension and then a sharp movement to undo them has normally worked. I've heard of people wrapping the threads in PTFE tape to try to stop them seizing.

My brakes were all apparently changed 2 years ago so I'm hoping the bled nipples haven't seized too hard as the car has always been garaged. Is it worth putting a dap of copper grease on the nipples when I tighten them back up?

No, copper grease is not well compatible with brake fluid. Red rubber grease if you must. But i don't bother, just make sure the rubber dust caps are in good condition

No, definitely not Copperslip grease because the calipers are alloy and copper promotes corrosion between steel and aluminium. Only use ally grease on aluminium (and alloy) components, including your wheel nuts.