19 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLED Headlight issue...
Leading reported evidence
Replace ballasts again
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Then, to be 100% certain, I swapped ballasts again, to make sure the problem followed the ballast.
Leading evidence: 'Replace ballasts again' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace 55w halogen' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I changed the fogs, and by comparison that was easy and they look great.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
BTW, I also replaced the OEM fogs with the 5000K H11 version - looks MUCH better (although I don't use fogs very often).
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Another common practice they sometimes state the wattage used by 2 bulbs.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
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1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
After letting it cool down about 15 minutes it worked fine.
Hi guys- finally was able to source that headlight removal tool thingy (ridiculous) from the local dealer. Replaced the headlight bulbs with H7 50w
LED
's sourced on Ebay. Bulbs are rated at 6,000 kelvins.
I recently did
LED
's for the fog lights, and had no problems with the
plug
&play bulbs.
However, after installing these I am getting "Check Left Dipped Beam/Right Dipped Beam" warnings, and the lights are intermittently coming on and off.
When on they look great.
They do seem a little dimmer than the stock halogens (which were 55w).
Should I just hunt for a 55w set, or would 60-65w be ok? I played it safe with 50w and I think that's the issue...
On a
987.2
, the fog lights are not monitored - you can even remove the fixture and it will not throw an error.
Many
LEDs
are advertised with their wattage equivalent - that is - the wattage of the equivalent normal bulb they replace. Another common practice they sometimes state the wattage used by 2 bulbs. So you may be replacing a 55w halogen with a 25 watt
LED
.Not the actual wattage consumed by the
LED
bulb.
Your best bet is to add
Load Resistors
. They ad resistance to increase the current draw to fool the canbus monitoring.
any luck finding a fix?
I saw these..
Choose Your Own Colour Temperature | DIY | 3000K, 4300K, 6500K, 8000K, 10000K
any body have experience using? would these look as good as stock xenons does anybody know?
They won't fit your light enclosure without modification to the enclosure's bulb retaining clip. Here is what a standard H7 base looks like (BTW, I have used these and they do match the color temp of OEM HID.
Philips - Diamond Vision H7 Halogen HID Bulbs
With our headlight enclosures, the H7 bulb is inserted from behind the enclosure and a hinged wire clip latches to hold it in place. These LED bulbs have a fat bottom which would preclude you from clipping the latch into place. You might be able to modify that locking hinge.
Here's some pics I took during my HID installation that show what I'm talking about:
It looks like the retaining clip hinge is just held in place with a screw - so you might be able to remove the screw, take the clip off, work it around the LED bulb, then insert the bulb and re-attach the hinge screw and lock it into place.
I tried a second set of higher rated wattage bulbs and still threw a fault light...I clipped the wiring on the load resistors I got too short and couldn't maneuver them into the housing very well.
may be throwing in the towel on this one guys
its a real pain popping the whole housing out each time, unscrewing everything, ughh
thanks for the info guys, I've read
Philips - Diamond Vision H7 Halogen HID Bulbs
have quite poor visibility, although do look quite white? I wondered why you've swapped for HIDs?
I'm not sure if they are much dimmer than OEM halogen. I have been running with aftermarket HIDs for over 2 yrs. While on vacation, my right side started acting-up. It wouldn't re-ignite after it got hot (on a long trip, after a re-fueling stop). After letting it cool down about 15 minutes it worked fine. Then, a few days later it just quit entirely. I was home by that time. I had a 5yr warranty (from The Retrofit Source) but I figured it would take a while to get sorted-out* (ended up taking two weeks for the replacement to arrive). In the mean time I didn't want to use the OEM halogen - it looked blood-shot compared to the other HID. So I got a set of the Philips Diamond Visions and just used one on the right. Yes, it looked dimmer than my HID on the left, but that's to be expected. But the color temp matched fairly well.
I didn't do any highway driving with that mix, so I didn't get to judge how it affected distant vision. Besides, the driver-side HID fills-in quit well at distance. Even driving with the right side totally out I only noticed a problem for near things on the right.
* trouble-shooting these HID kits is a real pain. Basically - with my setup, there are 3 components that could be failing: bulb, ballast, canbus adapter, (or 4 if you include the car's wiring). The only way to isolate it is to systematically swap each component with the known good one on the other side. So, each time I swapped, I had to remove, open, change, and re-install both
headlights
. Turned-out to be the ballast. Then, to be 100% certain, I swapped ballasts again, to make sure the problem followed the ballast.
So I sympathize with you Rittmeister.
Woww Rschwerer...that's quite the saga and exactly what I want to avoid.
foxton- The
Phillips bulbs
still look like halogens (because they are of course) and the combination with the thin white/blue
LED
DRL looks weird to me IMHO. If you've seen the last gen C Class Mercedes or CLA cruising around, same story...halogen HL's,
LED
DRL's
I get that the
boxster
was and is the 'entry level car' but man do I miss the
PDLS
I had on my '10...it SEEMS like a senseless option until you actually have it for a while...like ventilated seats...just completes the whole package....ughhhh#regrets
If you are referring to the LED strip on 987.2's, this Philips halogen is actually only slightly cooler (bluer) than the LEDs. It is 5000K. My HIDs are 4300K and are very close to the DRL LED strip. What really looks weird is the OEM halogens (3000K). Total miss-match. BTW, I also replaced the OEM fogs with the 5000K H11 version - looks MUCH better (although I don't use fogs very often).
Philips H11
I purchased these a few months back and they have be excellent. The are literally
plug
and play. They have a built-in fan and are guarantied not to code.
Sirius LED - 3rd Generation LED Head light
I put some phillips diamond vision bulbs in (thanks
RSchwerer)
, they do a good job of matching the little led strip on the cayman and imo look pretty good in the projectors, so would also recommend, if you aren't looking to go the HID route
Guys. I purchased and put
led
light bulbs on from
Amazon
.
Plug
and play type. No fan and no adopters. After installed. The Error code messenger came on. Then it went away after 40 miles drive. it’s been 4 days now. No error code yet. I turn day time running light on to make sure. Doesn’t it mean the computer “adopted” the new bulbs after a while?
I'm not sure what to think. Can you provide a link to the bulbs (on
Amazon
or elsewhere)? It's possible the bulbs have a resistor built in to avoid triggering the bulb-monitoring system. As far as I know, the light-control-module doesn't have the capability of self-programming (which would be needed for it to "adopt" an unknown bulb type.)
BTW - when you have a chance - please visit
New Member Introductions
and introduce yourself and your Porsche. LOTS of photos is a good thing..
Over the last few years I've bought
LED bulbs
off
Amazon
for the fogs, low, and high beams. In all cases, I've gotten a letter from
Amazon
about a year later stating the product had been recalled. I'm guessing it was because they are only legal for off-road use. However, I still use them (well, rarely use high and fogs) and I doubt the low beam is causing issues with on-coming traffic. I never get flashed, I just passed the N Carolina safety inspection which included low & high beam alignment tests.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.