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YOUR RESEARCHRemote stopped working?
Leading reported evidence
Replace battery and still nothing
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Leading evidence: 'Replace battery and still nothing' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace battery and still nothing' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Using your key to unlock will disarm the alarm as well.
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Suggestion
This mating must be done by the dealer using a PCNA supplied code ....
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My remote has stopped locking and unlocking the car. The light blinks but it does nothing. I even changed the battery and still nothing. Anyone had this happen? What could it be? Is this time for a dealer visit?
...mine has also stopped working - but I'm in the UK. It's a '99 996 C4. I changed the battery too - no effect.
Warning - don't use the key to lock your car (as the bl@@dy alarm) arms itself after a while and it's a pain in the @ss to sort it out once the shrieking and beeping starts!
I'm having to leave my car unlocked! Will have to get the dealer to look at it, I think.
WTF? Using your key to unlock will disarm the alarm as well. Not sure what is going on with your car but that is NOT how it operates.
One of my remotes stopped working and it needs to be reprogrammed but I could continue to lock/unlock, arm/disarm with the key.
I would NEVER NEVER NEVER leave my car unlocked. Even for fear of the alarm going off when I get back to it. If you key doesn't disarm when you unlock, it WILL when you put in in the ignition switch and start the car.
Actually if you armed the car with the remote and then use the key to unlock it, it will trigger the alarm. So if you leave the car for 5 days (or so) the remote will be "deactivated". When you unlock the car with the key, you must then push the remote button to activate it again (or the alarm will sound).
Yes, this is so. I wouldn't leave my car unlocked either.
if your alarm goes off and your remote doesnt work you stick the key in the ignition and it shuts it off
I have a new in the package remote i would sell if your intrested
IIRC, all that needs to be done is a simple reprogram of the 2 remotes you have by your dealer. Be prepared to bend over when they charge you for "labor" on it.
you could attempt to reprogram them but with out the orignal key tag with the
20 digit code on it your out of luck, ive also only seen reprgraoming work once maybe twice,
Brad....not sure I follow. There was a thread recently that talked about this very issue and several guys reported back that what needed to happen was the key needed to be reprogrammed by the dealer and the rationale for the OUTRAGEOUS labor charge was for not just hooking it up to reprogram but to get the codes from PAG/PCNA.
you must have a 6 alphadigit key learn code from posche to access the teach funtion with a piwis or pst2. then you can program a key, the imobilizer pill which is what is recogized and allows the key to start the car is self contained, the vechile reads the code and allows you to save it.....then its programed. the remote has a card that comes with it with a 24 alpha digit remote id card, without that card (or the number off the card) you can not program the remote to any vechile, the original cards from whe n the car was new may be in the owners manual, but if the remotes have ever been replaced chances are they were discarded making reteaching the remotes impossible.
That said i have attempted to relearn remotes, and only had it work once or twice
cayennes and 9x7s can be taught with only the porsche acess codes no other codes are required, 993s as well
Thanks for the explanation Brad. Can you explain why the key will still lock/arm and the unlock/disarm as well as start the car? Seems to me that the only inconvenience is the ability to lock/arm and the unlock/disarm remotely versus with the key in the door.
the key will always work, or should always work as long as the pill isnt damaged, it cant go bad it cant fail only the remote itself can go bad they are 2 seperate pieces so you can still operate the car normaly you just lose the convience of unlocking remotely
Dell, Just to be clear. There are two separate and distinct electronic matings that must take place between the car and the remote key:
1. even on the valet key, without remote button, there is a transponder embedded in the key head. This emits a signal that satisfies the on board immobilizer and allows the car to start when the key is inserted/turned. Each car can learn several (depends upon MY) keys in this manner. In the newer cars, this transponder also signals the seat position for this driver. This mating must be done by the dealer using a PCNA supplied code .... but does not require the bar code tag associates with the remote key head.
2. on remote key heads, the above mating must be accomplished, plus the remote transmitter in the key head must be mated to the car's alarm computer. This requires the PCNA code and the bar code, and enables the remote key head to operate the locks and alarm system .... remotely.
Dealer charge is not always outrageous. Here in ATL, it cost me less than $50 for two keys .... while I waited for about 10 minutes.
Hope that helps,
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