Window doesnt drop when door open

My drivers side window no longer drops the 1/2 inch when I pull on either the inside or outside door handle. Makes it nearly impossible to close door. Passenger side still works fine. Anyone have any hints on first thing to look for ???

Do you hear the motor run inside the door when you pull the handle up?

If you here the noise coming from the door when you pull the door handle but the window doesn't do anything then you need a window regulator.

No Noise when I pull the handle. And window works normal from window switch, auto up/down works fine.

There are 2 solutions to this issue: 1 Replace the window regulator with a new one. The regulator costs about $190, and takes a little over 2 hours to R&R going at a leisurely pace. 2. Adjust the Bowden Tube on the existing regulator to take up the slack on the cable. This method only costs the 2 or less hours needed to take off the door panel to get to the regulator. The Bowden tube is the white plastic tube that the regulator cable is in and has clips on the regulator motor end that can be adjusted to take up the slack from the cable stretching. Adjusting the cable will give your regulator a few more years of use and save you some cash. This is the same mechanism that is used on Audi, VW, and most other German window regulators. Beware, however if you go to a dealer. They will insist that there is no adjustment, and that they "have" to replace the regulator, and charge you list for the regulator and labor.

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Then the problem is not the regulator. There is a microswitch in the door handle assembly that is probably at fault: From http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...-20-Frame3.htm

Thanks so far for the suggestions, but I dont think any are on track. Not the regulator because the motor doesnt move or hum at all, but works fine from switch control. Not the microswitch because doesnt work with exterior or interior door handle. My guess is either break in wiring harness from door to body, or something wrong with window controller, wherever that is.

Try "retraining" your window. Lower the window completely and continue to hold the window switch dwon for 10 - 15 seconds after the window is lowered. Raise the window and continue to hold the window switch dwon for 10 - 15 seconds after the window is completely raised. You may need to do this procedure twice to "retrain" the window. If that does not resolve the issue, then I agree with Doug Donsbach that it is probably the microswitch in the door handle. Let us know how you resolved the problem.

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Sorry you make no sense....those are exactly the symptoms of a failed microswitch...not working with either the exterior or interior handle.

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I havnt had a chance to look at the schematics, but I was assuming 2 microswitches. One for inside door handle, one for outside, so if one broke mechanically, the other would still work. Since in my case neither works, I am assuming something else. We all know about assume, but does that make more sense. Thx

The diagram in post #6 shows only 1 micro switch in the door handle configutation. Both the exterior and interior handles activate the switch.

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http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...-10-Frame3.htm Looking at the diagram of the inside, there seems to be an additional microswitch for the inside door handle. part #20. So .... I think there are two switches. Anybody have a schematic of this section, that would confirm one or two switches. I will also try retraining the window tonight when I get home. (Drove the Audi today, thunderstorms forcast) Thx

There are in fact two switches:

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OK, I stand correected. I didn't have the detail for the second switch. My bad! Thanks for the info.

The probability of both microswitches going out at the same time is very unlikely. What is more likely is that the cable in the Bowden tube has stretched just enough that even though the motor is pulling the cable the 1/2" that it needs to, the slack is such that the window is not being pulled down. You can test this by after you open the door, push the window down by hand the 1/2" that the motor should be pulling it down. Then close the door, and the window should reset itself back to the fully closed position. 80% of window regulator problems are traced to a stretched regulator cable. As I mentioned in an earlier post, if the cable stretch is not too severe, there is a Bowden tube adjustment on the regulator to take up the slack.

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But in that case he'd hear the motor run when he operates the handle, and he doesn't. So it points to a wiring problem or some other issue with the control unit.

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Doug, I am pretty sure you are correct. It is a wiring issue, or a controller issue. Do you know what module does the window control, and where it is mounted ? I am jazzed about the idea that it might be that the system needs to be re-trained. wouldnt that be nice. I will try to do that when I get home tonight.

Go try it on your car, and you will notice that you don't hear the motor on a door that is working correctly. What you do hear is the window moving up and down in the window track. Remember the motor is only turning about a quarter revolution. But the debate would be ended, by just pulling the door handle up, pushing down on the window with you hand, and letting up on the door handle to see if the motor pushes the window back up again.

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I know that when my regulator started to die and the window stopped doing its dance when opening/closing the door, I could still hear the motor spin for a fraction of a second.

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The alarm control unit is responsible for the window control and it is located under the driver's seat. One thing you might want to know is that both the interior and exterior door handle microswitches are wired in parallel, as well as being wired in parallel with a couple of contacts inside the door lock itself. So don't overlook the potential for the lock to be the cause of your problems. You might want to try manually cycling the key in the lock a few times to see if that helps.

Well, I feel sort of dumb It looks like it is regulator after all. Got home, and played around with it, and motor does turn for about 1/2 second. If I push the window down, then release handle, it pushes window up. Sorry wasn't a contest, no prizes except for whoever I buy a regulator for when it does finally fail. Thanks for the ideas.

At least you now know what is causing the problem.

That's OK, I bet you didn't listen to your mother either! Now on to the adjustment. You can take the slack out without removing the regulator. Just take the interior door panel off, remove the airbag, and the waterproofing membrane on the door. Make sure the window is UP before you start this process. Once you get to the regulator, you will see the adjustment clips on one side of the motor where the bowden tube mounts on the motor. Pop the clip, pull the bowden tube tight, but not too tight, reclip it, and you are done. PS. Don't turn the car on with the side airbag disconnected or you will throw a airbag fault light. Alternative: Go to dealer and pay $500-600 for same thing.

Great thread, eric

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Awsome group of people on rennlist. Thanks for all the advice.

I paid for this repair yesterday, door latch.157 .00 parts 225 labor

I have this problem on my 1999 C2, but I claim the cable cannot be tightened beyond the amount it automatically adjusts itself via the spring described below. I would love to be proven wrong and hope someone can do so. My symptoms are: on driver's side, pulling door handle, inside or out, I hear the window motor wind a partial turn but the window does not nudge down at all. After opening the door, I can press down on the top of the window and it will move down the expected amount. Passenger side works fine. Using the power window switches I can power the windows up and down all day. I pulled the door panel as per http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/ (thank you!) and https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/392254-how-to-adjust-the-windows.html (thanks!) and removed the insulating sheet. Took about an hour going slowly and carefully. I tried to apply Orient Express' instructions for making the actual adjustment, which I will re-paste here: "Now on to the adjustment. You can take the slack out without removing the regulator. Just take the interior door panel off, remove the airbag, and the waterproofing membrane on the door. Make sure the window is UP before you start this process. Once you get to the regulator, you will see the adjustment clips on one side of the motor where the bowden tube mounts on the motor. Pop the clip, pull the bowden tube tight, but not too tight, reclip it, and you are done." By "adjustment clips" do you mean the four pins seen here: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster...arated1_lg.jpg on this page: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/ I see exactly this configuration, and it seems to me that the spring on one side of these clips is there to take up slack in the cable as it stretches. I believe my cable is stretched beyond the point where the spring can adjust for the slack. All I could do was fiddle a bit with the spring, trying to get the cable a little more taut. It was pretty loose and I could feel how the partial turn the motor makes would not be enough to move the window. Anyway, I reassembled everything and was rewarded with a nudge down on my first try--but only once. I think I was able to get the cable tight enough to work one time but then the slack came back. Now I am back to the symptoms described above. I have also tried the adjustment routine I saw elsewhere on the forum: press and hold power window button for a few seconds beyond the time when the window is fully up or down. No joy. I'm left thinking the dealer was right: once the cable is stretched too much, a new regulator is the way to go. Guys, thanks for all the excellent info, especially the photos and the procedures. I got this car one week ago and absolutely love it. Please set me straight if you think there is still a way for me to adjust the cable slack. Now I have to figure out what to do with the (apparently) incorrect PCM code I got from the seller. I'm locked out of the PCM and Navi. Attaching pictures now... Cheers! Axelray

Thanks Guys, Mine is doing the same thing. I can push down the window the required 1/2 inch --- shut the door and it closes the window. I have read the Renn Tech write up on removing the door panel --- sounds like a job. It is cold in my garage right now --- so will close by hand --- it is the pass door. Thanks again Chuck 951

Is there an advantage to this design besides having the same doors for cabs and coupes? Does any other car need electrical power to open the damn doors?

The windows on My wife's MB Cab also lowered when the door handle is pulled.

BMW 850's are the first cars I can remember with this...my 318is of 1992 vintage did this.... Best of luck all. Great thread. JB (I am sure others did it earlier. Citroen probably did it in the 70's :-) )

i have a 996 '99 cab and my driver side window is now on the fritz... if i pull the handle the window drops but the door is now open and i release the handle and the window pops right back up leaving me unable to close the door. if i pull the handle it lowers for only the time that i'm holding the door handle. do i ned to have my windows relearn positions? they seem to go all the way up and all the way down when i'm inside and tap the buttons. is there a button behind the door that senses when the door is open? i'm thinking that button may have gotten messed up. the interior lights turn on when the door is opened so maybe that button is ok? please help. my other window problem, when i have the top up the rear windows can be conrtrolled to go up and down. but when i have the top down, i no longer can raise them with the switches inside. i am pretty sure the buttons are fine because they work with the top up. please please help.

I have the exact same problem as you do erikazra, but on a coupe. I did not have the chance to take it apart yet, but I do believe that there is another switch in the latching mechanism that is on the fritz. My problems happens some days and others it works fine. What I do notice is that when its happening my factory remote door locks beeps telling me something is open when its not. I think its better to go check on renntech.org for better info for this problem. I highly doubt there is a regulator problem and its related to an electrical problem.

Try "retraining" your window. Lower the window completely and continue to hold the window switch dwon for 10 - 15 seconds after the window is lowered. Raise the window and continue to hold the window switch dwon for 10 - 15 seconds after the window is completely raised. You may need to do this procedure twice to "retrain" the window. If that doesn't work, look at the diagram in post #6 in this thread. There are two micro switches (#14 & #20) in the door. One of them could be faulty.

OK. Looks like I need to tighten my cable. Where do I get the nylon tool thingy to keep from breaking the clips. What is the specific location of the clips so I know where to look? Is it better to start at the top of the door and work down, or what. Any trips to popping the clips loose w/o breaking them? My be dumb ??, but I'm gonna try not to pay the indy $475 for something I might can do for a 2 hour project.

great thread guys! i have this problem as well. Ive noticed that the microswitch (labelled 14) is slightly rotated upwar - 15 deg. I can click it with my finger and make it the same as the pass door - o deg/flush to horizontal. Once "armed" like this, the window stays down the 1/4inch. When the door is closed it seals flush. So is the prob the lil switch? can it be reset to STAy in the 0-deg/flat position (it keeps springing back to 50deg superior/upward angulation)

Does anyone have a diagram on how to adjust the "Bowden Cable" in the window regulator?

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link 1 link 2 that should get you started.

I've had to replace both window regulators. Each had different symptoms, but replacing the regulator fixed both problems. On the passenger side, the window had a mind of it's on. it would go up down, stop 1/2 way, go back up, not go down... The cable was very worn and frayed, but had not failed. On the drivers side, the window was up and would not go down at all. The cord was severed. Part is about $200. A very good DYI write-up! I would allow more than 2 hours to do it the 1st time. I could probably easily do it in 2 hours now, but definitely could NOT the 1st time. This job takes care so go slow and read all the DYI before starting. Take care in lining the window up or you will have to go back in and realign, which means completely redo the whole project (ask how I know?).

Just had the same problem. It was the microswitch. Switch replaced, problem solved. As I understand it, this is a fairly common problem with 996's and Boxters.

Would you mind giving me a PM on how to do the adjustment? Thanks

Very nice thread, folks. Quick question somewhat related to the thread: have any of you experienced an issue whereby the motor does lower the window, but it seems to lower it slightly delayed? Can it be adjusted to lower the window more quickly? When passengers open the door, it sounds like the door is being 'popped' open instead of lowering the window, and then opening the door.

I came upon this thread while searching a related issue. My windows would move up and down but would not close completly, sort of like they were out of adjustment. After disconnecting the battery for a related issue, the problem was fixed when the battery was connected again. Rich

I just replaced my passenger side regulator a few weeks ago with instructions listed here. Nice to have a working window again. The adjustment part isn't too bad. The only trick I used was to keep the panel off when the regulator/window was installed and hook the power up to see how it sits and moves up and down. Very easy to access the bolts to loosen/tighten and adjust the window position when everything is exposed and you can get it perfect that way. Just line it up so it's the same as the other side window. Whole process took me 1.5hrs (not rushing). Got the part from Sunset Porsche for $180. And I didn't break anything in the process!

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These are EXACTLY the symptoms my passenger window is exhibiting: Whilst holding either handle up, the window stays down, but release the handle and it slides back up, regardless of whether the door is still open. Is this likely a microswitch, or is there a switch inside the door detecting whether it is closed or open? Currently when closing the passenger door, one has to maintain hold of the door handle until the last second when closing the door and time it just right so the door closes a split second before the window goes back up - I've got the wife and kids trained, but its so annoying and I'd love to get it sorted! Appreciate any advice! Cheers, --H

Looks like I found a solution: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-switches.html Cheers anyway guys (unless there is another answer?) --H

Is the regulator also responsible for the driver window not wanted to roll down when rainy or wet? I would have thought the opposite, that it would move more freely when wet, but it rolls down about an inch or two and just stops. When dry day, works fine. Feel free to refer me to a different thread.

Great thread..... After reviewing the links and threads I am still chasing the following symptoms: first details about the car: 2001 C2 with 103,000 miles 6SPM Symptoms: When I open the door the window does not drop either from the inside or outside. However if I press the lock botton on the remote key fob the window will drop then I can close the door and the window will go up as expected. I have replaced the microswitch for the outside door handle and now this is how the window is operating. Prior to replacing the micro switch the window would work intermittently sometimes it would work sometimes it wouldn't... meaning when the door was opened from the outside or inside the window would drop the necessary 1/8 of an inch to allow the door to be closed. but the dang alarm beep would sound indicating there was an issue. The window will go up and down when operated from the switch inside the car, full down and full up. I have tried to reset the window with mentioned procedure in the thread but no luck either. Would the next logic step be the Door Lock Mechanism? Part number 99653754600 Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. thanks

Here is some help on the door latch and window drop https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-detailed.html

Thanks for the links! and direction on this matter.

Question from fairly new 996 owner. I have a 1999 996 C2 coupe. Neither the drivers or passengers window automatically drop / raise upon opening / closing. My question - did all 996 have the automatically dropping windows? I know that on some other brands it was only the cabriolets that had them drop. Thanks jb

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Window regulators are a very, very common problem. Your coupe is no exception. I had to replace my driver's side unit upon purchase and the passenger side within 1st year. Its a DIY job if you are so inclined.

Long time lurker and finally a new owner of a 2002 C4S with about 29,000 miles. I just noticed last night when closing the door for my daughter that the passenger side window did not tuck under the rubber seal and only raises or drops a little when the handle is operated or when door is closed. I tried re-training the window up and down twice as suggested earlier in this thread and it did not work. I can push the window down about 1/2" by hand. Can someone point me in the right direction on how to solve this? The window button/switch on center console and regulator seem to work fine since the window will go fully up and down but it just barely drops when door opened and barely raises when door is closed. When opening it is difficult to notice because the glass will pull past the overhanging seal when the door is being opened, but when its being closed the glass will not quite go under it and will push out leaving a gap on the vertical window edge.

Replace window regulator.

Just hit this problem. I tested pushing the window down by hand and closed the door, window rolled up. Must be regulator. If I am removing the door panel, might as well replace the regulator. Now, choices: Lemforder (ordered) but also URO and cheap chinese brands. Debated the URO as it's supposed to be upgraded, but the last VW window switch I ordered which was a URO did not fit so I passed this time around. Is there a "must get" option for the regulator?

I�m of the opinion that URO is pretty much a cheap Chinese brand. I really like Lemforder products and would choose that in a heartbeat. I�m glad you chose it too. Edit: I�ve never replaced a 996 window regulator, so my response is a general regard to all product types.

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I've used a URO in a BMW e39 and thought the quality was good, it also had a lifetime warranty. But then I got a VW window switch assembly which was way off spec. Lemforder arrives tomorrow, hoping to tackle this repair soon.

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Same here on the URO e39 regulator. It is an upgrade over the BMW version and much cheaper. The BMW version uses plastic rollers which is a fail point. The URO version uses bronze rollers. I also replaced the plastic BMW serpentine belt idler pulleys with the cheaper/better aluminum URO versions. Not giving a blanket endorsement of URO but they make some okay stuff. There's even a URO part in the UAOS.

Ok I�ve got the new regulator in, it works and the window drops with the door again. But it needs some adjustment. Anyone have a good guide on how to do this? Hoping to not have to visit my local shop for such a simple thing but I don�t want to mess too much with glass.

Stopped by my indie, mechanic came out and looked and said he was impressed and that I did a better job than the dealer techs Still some minute adjustments needed, will tweak it tomorrow, but yet another easily done DIY on the 996. These cars do not have to be expensive to keep up, if you can wrench.

Still tweaking. Got the side to improve (use a dollar bill or sheet of paper to check how tight it is) but still need to adjust the top front corner a tad.

Need some help. I put in some new coilovers a week ago on my 2001 996 C4 Coupe and in the process let my battery die. Ever since it died, the driver's window doesn't come up. When I try to put it up with the switch, it clicks in the door, but no movement, whirring, anything. The window worked perfectly prior to the battery dying, including the window drop at door open. I think I tried to put the window down when the battery was just about dead, and pressing it was the last straw. When I jumped the battery, I think the driver's window was part way down if that's of any consequence. I've tried a number of tricks to get it to go including the following, however none have worked: Undoing battery negative terminal then trying the window reset/retrain (hold down for 10 seconds, and up for 10 seconds) Undoing battery and unplugging the Comfort Control Module under the driver's seat (there was one plug I couldn't get undone) Checking the switch itself by using it on the passenger window that does work Closing the door firmly while pressing up on the switch to jolt the window motor Hitting the door near the motor while pressing up on the switch to jolt the window motor Checking fuses to see if they work (I didn't try the multimeter on the fuses, but when I took them out, the passenger window stopped working and then it worked when I put the fuses back, so I assume they are fine. Visual inspection doesn't show any issues) Pulling the door panel off to check the window motor - The regulator looked fine (not stretched out), however I couldn't really access the motor because with the window down, I can't get the speaker out of the door, meaning I can't get to the motor itself I've checked a gazillion forums and haven't gotten to an answer. Anyone here have any bright ideas for me to try?